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floriduramax1
04-05-2012, 11:16 AM
Yes, I am able to lift the hatch with it in place although I need to reconfigure the storage spot in the ER. The set up for the original round table is too small. It will fit in the ER with no problem but I need to make a new storage set up.How do you use the mid berth? I would almost be concerned with storing such a beautiful table in the ER with the heat and moisture combination.

Bucit
04-05-2012, 11:26 AM
How do you use the mid berth? I would almost be concerned with storing such a beautiful table in the ER with the heat and moisture combination.

VEry true. I try to keep th mid berth clean and not as a storage area. This is where my 3 year old sleeps. I may keep it there temporarily until I can come up with a good solution. If I do put it down there I will keep an eye on it and see if the heat or moisture affects it.

floriduramax1
04-05-2012, 11:30 AM
deleted

MExcelsior
04-05-2012, 11:34 AM
Here's a couple of pictures on my new cockpit table. Now I just need to find a way to store it in the ER.

This is perfect. Where did you get this? What are the dimensions?

Bucit
04-05-2012, 01:28 PM
This is perfect. Where did you get this? What are the dimensions?

It was a stocked item at MM. Can't say exactly I how got it but it does fit/look nice. I'll have to measure tonight to give you the dimensions.

wvsundancer
04-06-2012, 07:54 AM
OK guys I took the plinge yesterday and ordered my trim tab lights from Hurley Marine called the wife after the order ( easier to ask for forgiveness than permission) !! Has anyone on our 280DA thread put these on yet? looking for any and all advice prior to my instal.

wvsundancer
04-06-2012, 07:57 AM
Yes, the cutout for the 7.7's was about an inch larger in diameter. May I ask how you made the holes bigger? What did you use? did you have a template? The reason for all the questions is that I am going to keep my boat for at least three more years and stereo upgrade is on the list for next project.

Henry Boyd
04-06-2012, 09:53 AM
May I ask how you made the holes bigger? What did you use? did you have a template? The reason for all the questions is that I am going to keep my boat for at least three more years and stereo upgrade is on the list for next project.


I've contemplating larger speakers as well. I think it can be done with a small hand held jig saw. I figure the seat cushion on the port side has to come off, but every where else it should work. When I installed the new VHF a couple of weeks ago I used the Dremal Fein Multi-Master clone and that worked get for enlarging the opening for the VHF body, so that may be my plan B approach.

Henry

wvsundancer
04-06-2012, 10:03 AM
I've contemplating larger speakers as well. I think it can be done with a small hand held jig saw. I figure the seat cushion on the port side has to come off, but every where else it should work. When I installed the new VHF a couple of weeks ago I used the Dremal Fein Multi-Master clone and that worked get for enlarging the opening for the VHF body, so that may be my plan B approach.

HenryThanks for the response that is what is was geting at. I don't know how the cushion comes off but I will bet if I search back far enough it will be on here somewhere.

JimFromMD
04-06-2012, 11:16 AM
Thanks for the response that is what is was geting at. I don't know how the cushion comes off but I will bet if I search back far enough it will be on here somewhere.

I have used a dremmel with a roto-zip syle bit to enlarge holes when replacing cockpit lights and speakers as well. Works pretty well. Just have to go slow because the bit gets hot and will dull quickly if it gets to hot. Wear a dust mask and long sleeve shirt to avoid getting the fiberglass dust all over your skin. It truly becomes dust, not "sawdust" like with manual tools, but the edges are nice and clean with no gelcoat chipping/cracking.

scootdogg
04-06-2012, 06:56 PM
anyone use their iPad on the boat? i have been carrying my laptop back and forth and thinking about a more permanent solution. I was wondering if anyone uses any mounts around the helm or is it just too small an area to work with...

JimT
04-07-2012, 07:50 AM
May I ask how you made the holes bigger? What did you use? did you have a template? The reason for all the questions is that I am going to keep my boat for at least three more years and stereo upgrade is on the list for next project.

The speakers come with a template for the opening and screw holes. A jigsaw is the way to go. I went with the "classic" speaker covers rather than the "sport". They fit in with the 280 styling and sound awesome.

Seacurity Crew
04-07-2012, 02:04 PM
I love the Sea Ray Company, and the great service that they usually supply, however I too had a problem with the windless not working after a day on the hook with my family in Fort Myers Florida. After checking the fuses and wiring as well as voltages, I gave up and called my service company MarineMax East, Inc 14070 McGregor Blvd Fort Myers Florida, to come to my dock and tell me what was wrong with the windless. The Tech that came out to service my boat was great, but told me that I needed a new windless control box for the anchor well, and went ahead and ordered it for me. After reading this post, I went into the engine room and found the lever style Hi Amp circuit breaker in the ER, port side and in front of the batteries, and pressed the reset button. As you guessed it, the windless came to life and is now working fine. Hmmmm, makes you wonder if the tech missed it, or just wanted me to have the added expense of a return call, the $350.00 part, and the labor to fix the problem, that was never really there.

Henry Boyd
04-07-2012, 02:47 PM
Control boxes frequently fail. What's more disturbing to me is not that the tech missed the breaker but not knowing what caused the high amp breaker to trip.

Henry

Seacurity Crew
04-07-2012, 03:03 PM
I used the windless to get the anchor out on the bottom, thats what tripped it. This Forum saved me money and aggravation.

Kurt
04-08-2012, 10:53 AM
My guess is that the tech was clueless. That is why I use these 2 old guys that worked for MM for 20 years. They were let go when MM closed when the market crashed in 08. I am doing everything I can to learn my boat so I don't need them.

Henry Boyd
04-08-2012, 11:14 AM
I used the windless to get the anchor out on the bottom, thats what tripped it. This Forum saved me money and aggravation.


Normally, that should not have tripped that breaker. You'd have to snag the anchor really hard, to the point of not getting it out to overload the system enough to trip the big breaker. If this tripped and you then were able to raise the anchor by hand, then the windlass wasn't overloaded. And if it wasn't an overload, then something in the windlass power circuit is causing a short.

Henry

melida
04-08-2012, 01:21 PM
Normally, that should not have tripped that breaker. You'd have to snag the anchor really hard, to the point of not getting it out to overload the system enough to trip the big breaker. If this tripped and you then were able to raise the anchor by hand, then the windlass wasn't overloaded. And if it wasn't an overload, then something in the windlass power circuit is causing a short.

Henry

To not overloading the windlass while you anchored upstream, it's good to put in gear (at idle speed) and then out to neutral until the windlass heaves easily, if it isn't failed as Henry mentioned.

Gunn
04-09-2012, 09:09 PM
Here's a couple of pictures on my new cockpit table. Now I just need to find a way to store it in the ER.

Looks great! Do you happen to know the dimensions of that table? I'm stopping by wood dealer soon to pick up some Teak, Ipe or Mahogany for some wood flooring in my 280DA and am also going to pick up enough extra to build a cockpit table at some point this season. I was going to do rectangular also, and like the dimensions of your setup.

Bucit
04-10-2012, 09:22 AM
Looks great! Do you happen to know the dimensions of that table? I'm stopping by wood dealer soon to pick up some Teak, Ipe or Mahogany for some wood flooring in my 280DA and am also going to pick up enough extra to build a cockpit table at some point this season. I was going to do rectangular also, and like the dimensions of your setup.

Since I've been sick I haven't been out to the baot much. I will get measurments tonight and post them tomorow.

dfwlaw
04-11-2012, 11:26 PM
Windlass breaker tripping Omg this keeps happening to us! Does anyone have a pic of this switch? We were down in the ER and couldn't find this box, lever, or switch. We did the docking of shame this evening with our chain wrapped around our bow cleats looking like frickin ruhtards! We didn't even know what a windlass was 16 Months ago! This is our Learner boat. Well be trading it back in in pieces most likely! Oh wise salty dogs please help us!

dfwlaw
04-11-2012, 11:29 PM
Omg this keeps happening to us! Does anyone have a pic of this switch? We were down in the ER and couldn't find this box, lever lever, or switch. We did the docking of shame this evening with our chain wrapped around our bow cleats looking like frickin ruhtards! We didn't even know what a windlass was 16 Months ago! This is our Learner boat. Well be trading it back in in pieces most likely! Oh wise salty dogs please help us!

Henry Boyd
04-12-2012, 05:59 AM
deleted duplicate post

Henry Boyd
04-12-2012, 06:06 AM
Omg this keeps happening to us! Does anyone have a pic of this switch? We were down in the ER and couldn't find this box, lever lever, or switch. We did the docking of shame this evening with our chain wrapped around our bow cleats looking like frickin ruhtards! We didn't even know what a windlass was 16 Months ago! This is our Learner boat. Well be trading it back in in pieces most likely! Oh wise salty dogs please help us!

dfwlaw,

First off there are a number of possible causes for why anchors go down and won't go up. There are some pictures below that will help describe the parts to you, but your best resource is to call IMTRA (imtra.com) and speak to their customer service people. Its not an 800 number, but they will help you diagnose what may be causing the go down not come up situation. Most common reasons are either the motor, or control box. Both are fairly expensive, and like most electrical parts non returnable. You can have down, but no up, either because one of the terminals on the motor has melted, or the contact points on the up side of the control box are burned. This is a real PITA job because the the location and lack of access.

Fuses & circuit breakers. There are circuit breakers for the low current circuit (helm switches) located on the aft EIM located in engine compartment on port side . These are push in breakers. Then there is the high amp fuse also located in the engine compartment near the EIM. There is also a solenoid there as well. Finally there is an ATC fuse located in the anchor locker. On our 280 it was attached to a common mounting bolt beside the control box, it will be in the anchor locker but not necessarily beside the control box. ALso on our 280 this stuff was located on the underside of the deck (ceiling of locker?).

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr303/SR280DA/Sea Ray Windlass/P1010864.jpg


http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr303/SR280DA/Sea Ray Windlass/P1010863.jpg


http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr303/SR280DA/Sea Ray Windlass/P1010859.jpg


http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr303/SR280DA/Sea Ray Windlass/P1010796_2.jpg

Un-labeled arrow is pointing at windlass solenoid.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr303/SR280DA/Sea Ray Windlass/P1010787_2.jpg

dfwlaw
04-12-2012, 07:48 AM
Thank you Henry!That is so unbelievably helpful! Our windlass got to end of chain and stopped going down. Then it wouldn't budge. I'm saving your pics on the iPad!Thank you for you reply! I have another annoying problem mm has been unable to solve and I'm about to pull my hair out. My bow back cushion is wet as well as carpet at bottom of stairs on and off. Mm left a pm note this week that it was dry so they assume it's fixed? I can take pics of where the cushion is wet. It makes no sense how water got into that cushion, maybe aliens have placed pods in there and they are getting ready to hatch. Thanks again!Sherry

Henry Boyd
04-12-2012, 08:04 AM
Wet carpet at the bottom of the cabin steps may be from water in the bilge under the steps. Pull up the trash can. If there is water outside of the shower sump box that is where it is coming from. The carpet goes under the steps. If it was left too long and there is water in the bilge it will wick the water. Source of water in this location can be overflowing sump box because of dead pump. If you don't use the shower this still can be the cause because the ac also drains into the sump box as well. It can also be loose hose fittings. Finally the port hole glass may be loose. And allowing rain to get in. The dogs that lock the ports have little plastic screws on the contact side. These create pressure for the glass against the gasket.

Will follow up with more later have to get to a meeting

dfwlaw
04-12-2012, 09:03 AM
Thanks Henry!Well yes there was water at bottom of trash can and it was wet vac'd as well as the pump was replaced by mm. Thank goodness we bought the warranty! (which ive learned doesn't cover labor) Following that replacement we had new wetness and there was water again. I bought a wet vac to keep on boat, mm charged me to wetvac , that was stupid of me to pay for that. Mm wanted to send 2 guys @ $110/hr each one to spray outside with hose while other guy looked for leaks inside. I'm not THAT gullible! Lol. We did this ourselves and found nothing. The most perplexing is that cushion in the bow. Where the heck is that water coming from and how does it just get in the bottom of a cushion that is touching nothing else to wick from? I'll get back out there and take pics. You will probably agree....ALIENS!Thanks again Henry! Sorry you have to work today! I know you'd rather be on the water!Sherry

Henry Boyd
04-12-2012, 09:48 AM
What cushion are you talking about. The cushion on the port side in the cockpit, or one of the vee berth cushions?

Back to the under the stairs, The sump box may be cracked as well. If it got forgotten when the boat was winterized, it might have frozen and cracked. Easiest way to test this is to run water from the head sink faucet onto the head floor so that it drains down the floor drain. The box will fill up with water and then you will hear the pump in the sump box cycle. If water is present outside the box you have a leaking sump box, or hose connection.

Water can also get into the cabin from the bow rail mounting bolts. In the cabin headliner there are small (about 3" diameter) rounds covered with headliner material. The bow rail mounting bolts are under those. The covers just pull out. They are held on with plastic Christmas tree fasteners. Pull a couple of covers off and inspect. If there is any signs of water then the bedding for the bow rail needs redoing.

Henry

scoflaw
04-12-2012, 12:29 PM
Both of my EIM hatch doors are leaking. The gasket appears to be the problem, anyone dealt with this issue?

Henry Boyd
04-12-2012, 12:40 PM
Both of my EIM hatch doors are leaking. The gasket appears to be the problem, anyone dealt with this issue?

???? There's only one EIM hatch door on my 280, and as you can see from the pictures, the other EIM is in the ER. What doors are you talking about?

Henry

scoflaw
04-12-2012, 01:41 PM
Oops, EIM and the identical hatch with the battery swiches. Just checked the clearance with the hatch shut, and I have about an eighth of an inch space between the hatch and the gasket. Water coming into my midberth and the ER.

dfwlaw
04-12-2012, 03:12 PM
Vee berth cushions the very front cushion on the bottom of the cushion and the entire port side cushion was wet. The bed itself did not feel wet, just the sides. I'm taking my handyman friend with me next week, I will have him follow your instructions to check on the headliner so I don't break my nails!

We don't winterize, we're in Texas, and it was a pretty warm winter last year. I'll definitely check that head drain and see if I hear my brand new pump we just got from MM turn on! You are just a wealth of knowledge, thank you so much! Can you just put all this in a book with pretty pictures and just be for the 2002 280 DA?? LOL!

I post pictures next week to show what all I'm talking about, maybe it will help someone else solve the same problem.

I'm just waiting for the learning curve to level out so I actually want to go out on the dang thing! It's sooooo frustrating that every single time we go out something else goes wrong, sometimes mechanical, sometimes bonehead...but it's always something. Plus we have 2 little boys 5 and 3 and having problems with them there is on the bottom of my list of "fun" things.

What is an EIM??????

Thanks again!

Sherry

saopm
04-12-2012, 03:27 PM
Check the sun hatch gasket. If it is dirty it could cause a leak. Otherwise I think the navigation lights are in that area. You might want to make sure they are water tight too.

Henry Boyd
04-12-2012, 05:00 PM
Vee berth cushions the very front cushion on the bottom of the cushion and the entire port side cushion was wet. The bed itself did not feel wet, just the sides. I'm taking my handyman friend with me next week, I will have him follow your instructions to check on the headliner so I don't break my nails!

We don't winterize, we're in Texas, and it was a pretty warm winter last year. I'll definitely check that head drain and see if I hear my brand new pump we just got from MM turn on! You are just a wealth of knowledge, thank you so much! Can you just put all this in a book with pretty pictures and just be for the 2002 280 DA?? LOL!

I post pictures next week to show what all I'm talking about, maybe it will help someone else solve the same problem.

I'm just waiting for the learning curve to level out so I actually want to go out on the dang thing! It's sooooo frustrating that every single time we go out something else goes wrong, sometimes mechanical, sometimes bonehead...but it's always something. Plus we have 2 little boys 5 and 3 and having problems with them there is on the bottom of my list of "fun" things.

What is an EIM??????

Thanks again!

Sherry

EIM = Electronic Interface Module See Page 38 & 39 of your 280 Sundancer Owner's Manual Supplement. If you don't have the owner's manual or parts manual, they can be downloaded from the Sea Ray Corporate site. The EIM's do a number of things, but they are basically the circuit breaker boxes for many of the DC electrical items.

Henry

Henry Boyd
04-12-2012, 05:04 PM
Oops, EIM and the identical hatch with the battery swiches. Just checked the clearance with the hatch shut, and I have about an eighth of an inch space between the hatch and the gasket. Water coming into my midberth and the ER.

There is no adjustment to those things. I stripped and repainted ours last winter. The frames are supplied by Teak Isle. They are in Florida (?) you might be able to get replacement gasket from them. I have the number and email for them somewhere. Let me know if you can't find them and I'll hunt around for it.

Henry

scoflaw
04-12-2012, 05:34 PM
I just put a layer of silicone on top of the gasket, I'll see if that works. That is 1 POS gasket, not flexible or close to where it belongs. Thanks for the info, I'll see if they upgraded and offer it.

dfwlaw
04-12-2012, 08:45 PM
Henry, I just saw your previous response. I don't know why I didn't get a notification. I'll check my settings. Thank you again so so so so much!!!!!!Sherry

Kurt
04-12-2012, 08:58 PM
I learned many years ago to clean the shower sump box and float yearly. I also dump a half a bottle of simple green down the shower drain about mid summer and let it sit all week while we are away.

BBBB
04-15-2012, 08:23 AM
Upgrading to a 03 280 sundancer. Has anyone switched out the cooler space for a extra beverage fridge?

Henry Boyd
04-15-2012, 08:56 AM
Personally, I'd advise against it. We use the space to store the grill, table legs, leg for the grill as well as a bunch of other things. The aft side of the wet bar gets stoppered and filled with ice and you have a non electric cooler that despite the lack of insulation is pretty efficient. Access to the area in the back has also been instrumental in running cables from the aft to the helm. We have about 20 feet each of excess GPS cable, Radar cable and VHF antenna cable coiled up and tucked up out of the way in there as well.

Henry

Gunn
04-15-2012, 08:57 AM
Does anyone know if there is an adjustment for the latch on the refrigerator? As you can see from the photo I took, the refrigerator does not completely latch; the metal pin in the door doesn't fit in the hole in the frame. We had it pop open a couple times last year in rough seas. I couldn't find any adjustment on the door, or the latch...but there has to be something I'm overlooking?

24679

Nehalennia
04-15-2012, 11:16 AM
Is there a small plastic bushing disc under the bottom hinge to lift the door up?. Maybe it's cracked or missing?
http://www.thetford.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=koRxNVFVK2Y%3d&tabid=474&mid=1245

bajturner
04-15-2012, 01:52 PM
The aft side of the wet bar gets stoppered and filled with ice and you have a non electric cooler that despite the lack of insulation is pretty efficient.

We really find this cooler compartment useful but it would be much better if it had better insulation. Has anyone tried to add more...or any ideas to improve it?

scoflaw
04-16-2012, 09:56 AM
Anyone know what the capacity of the fresh water tank is?

bajturner
04-16-2012, 10:00 AM
Anyone know what the capacity of the fresh water tank is?

28 gallons

scoflaw
04-16-2012, 11:33 AM
Thanks for the answer. What are those 2 buttons above the head pumpout switch, and what is the black water tank capacity. Thanks

Nehalennia
04-16-2012, 11:40 AM
Your holding tank is 28 gallons too.

bajturner
04-16-2012, 11:40 AM
Thanks for the answer. What are those 2 buttons above the head pumpout switch, and what is the black water tank capacity. Thanks

Also 28 gallons. I'm not sure what you mean regarding the buttons. Can you take a picture?

Gunn
04-16-2012, 11:45 AM
Is there a small plastic bushing disc under the bottom hinge to lift the door up?. Maybe it's cracked or missing?
http://www.thetford.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=koRxNVFVK2Y%3d&tabid=474&mid=1245

Thanks Todd, I'll check that out. The picture I took isn't as clear as I would have liked, but the hole is a bit offset from the pin too. I think if I could get it lined up, the pin would pop in...

Nehalennia
04-16-2012, 11:52 AM
Thanks Todd, I'll check that out. The picture I took isn't as clear as I would have liked, but the hole is a bit offset from the pin too. I think if I could get it lined up, the pin would pop in...

Good luck. Take the door off and start there. It seems a little low.

Bucit
04-16-2012, 02:00 PM
Good luck. Take the door off and start there. It seems a little low.


I'm trying to remember since I re-did the cooling system last year and had to take the whole fridge apart. I think when the door opens it lowers (pivots) on the pins and raises up when closed. I'll look tonight but I do think there is something on the lower pin that makes it raise when you swing it closed.

Bucit
04-18-2012, 09:54 AM
Here are a couple pics of the Hi Tek Manifolds installed. I've only run it once but I believe I've lowered my fuel usage by 1-1.5 GPH. I will be running her for hours this weekend and will get a better feel since I will be fully loaded. My freinds said they do sound quieter than the OEM's too.

24741

24742

Gunn
04-18-2012, 12:01 PM
Wow, those are beauties! Would like to hear your fuel usage after you've run it a bit, sounds encouraging.

And thanks guys on the refrigerator door issue. Removing the door and inspecting what I have is a good idea.

Tom

dfwlaw
04-20-2012, 08:40 AM
Henry,

I took my friend with me yesterday whom is quite handy and we found the source of the leak. It was 110% without a doubt the Nav Light that Marine Max serviced. There was a hole the size of a nickel in the fiberglass as well as a hairline crack leading to the hole, they did not seat the light assembly into the dome cover correctly so it was not flush in the fixture, this was causing it to not sit flat against the fiberglass, in addition to that, they did not replace the silicone. Now, we are left with thousands in upholstery ruined (we tried to remove the mildew stains...it's not coming out), I tried to locate the fabric (they don't make it anymore), soaked wood and vinyl, stained carpet. I called Marine Max and asked them, if it was possible there was a gasket, he said no, and why the tech did not put silicone, he said "if the factory didn't have it sealed the tech wouldn't have sealed it...unless there was already silicone in there"...which I told them, yes there was dried up old silicone that had been pulled up when the light was serviced and clearly not replaced...he said "I'll make it up to you and not charge you for the next PM". Really?........ :smt013

I did have the "opportunity" to clean my own boat yesterday and let the current cleaner go. We're going to start our own washing and maintenance. With awesome people like you on this forum, there is no reason we need to have incompetent people touching our boat. I really appreciate your assistance.

I'm looking at this like I did my pool. It was such a mystery to me when we had a pool service maintaining it, but surprisingly something was ALWAYS broken on it. I fired the pool guy last July and I've had ZERO problems with my pool since. Leslies Pool came over and gave me pool school and I pay them to clean my filters (cause I don't want to) and with the mystery removed, it is very simple. The boat although much more complicated, will be the same with help here and with my handy friend to help. More importantly, since a boat can leave you stranded in the middle of the water, it would be a good idea how to fix things.

We also located the switch for the windlass and got that put back in the locker, however when we first hit the windlass button and pressed the foot control it popped again. Then we reset and used the helm control and it worked. Maybe there is a short in the foot control?

Thanks again so very very much!

Sherry

saopm
04-20-2012, 10:52 AM
I'm glad you found the leak. Once you get the bugs worked out you will really enjoy the boat. I had a few thing to sort out when I got mine. I cringe at the thought of hiring people to work on my boat so I do everything I can myself.

scoflaw
04-20-2012, 11:42 AM
Anybody had any experience jacking the boat up high enough off the trailer to get some bottom paint on it? What kind off jacks and what loading points. Thanks

Henry Boyd
04-20-2012, 12:50 PM
Anybody had any experience jacking the boat up high enough off the trailer to get some bottom paint on it? What kind off jacks and what loading points. Thanks

Mike,

Here is a picture showing the block placement for ours. Here is the stern:

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr303/SR280DA/IMG_0981.jpg



I don't have a clear pic of the bow block. But it is right in line with the stand in the foreground and the AC cooling outlet. These points are holding the weight of the boat. The stands are just keeping the boat from tipping off the blocks. So those are the points you want to jack on. As you can see the actual contact is with a 2x4. You might want to go with a 4x4 block on the jack. The front 2x4 on ours is compressed into a distinct V.

I've taken some fairly good sized boats all the way off of trailers using stands and floor jacks. Nothing as big as a 280 though. If you have full tanks of gas and water, it is probably pushing 10,000 pounds, of which probably 2/3 is in the stern end. So you are going to need a 2.5 to 3 ton jack. I'd also recommend using boat stands as well to keep her from rocking to either side. It also goes without saying you probably want to keep the trailer attached to the tow vehicle. I've got spare stands I'm not using at the moment you can borrow if you want to visit the other Cape.

Henry

ps ignore the crappy bottom paint, the picture was taken before I blasted and barrier coated.

Henry Boyd
04-20-2012, 01:09 PM
Sherry,

Here is a link to Flounder Pounder Marine. They buy unused new inventory from boat builders and have a pretty good supply of SR stuff. The website is pretty extensive, but if you don't see what you need, call them as many times they have stuff that is not on line.

On the windlass. You clearly have a problem. Call and talk to Imtra they can best diagnose it for you. The 280 came with the LoFrans Marlin windlass. I was shopping on their website the other day for other stuff and noticed that a replacement motor is now $ 840.00 and the control box is $ 185.00, so you want to make sure the problem is diagnosed correctly.

Henry.

tony1b2000
04-21-2012, 07:30 PM
He folks,

Getting the boat ready to hit the water soon. Found that my steering was somewhat tight last year and the same this year with my twin mercs. I know the power steering is working (don't know how well). Just wondering is this is a normal "feature" :huh:with this model sundancer OR are their any lube points to check?

Thanks

Jetmart
04-28-2012, 11:26 AM
Lower End Dive Trim Help!

My 2004 280 drive trim won't work after putting them down last fall. Not sure if it is finger problems on my part. Batteries are on, keys are on, I seem to have good power every where except drives won't go up with trim swathes on throttles or using the trailer mode switch. Any ideas???

Where is the breaker or fuse for the system?

Any help would be appreciated. I have to launch tomorrow morning.

scoflaw
04-28-2012, 03:22 PM
Think my port shift cable may need to be replaced. What kind of PITA am I lookin at there, with the twin 5.s. Don't want to hear" pull the manifold" Thanks for any insight.

Jetmart
04-29-2012, 10:40 AM
Lower End Dive Trim Help!

My 2004 280 drive trim won't work after putting them down last fall. Not sure if it is finger problems on my part. Batteries are on, keys are on, I seem to have good power every where except drives won't go up with trim swathes on throttles or using the trailer mode switch. Any ideas???

Where is the breaker or fuse for the system?




Any help would be appreciated. I have to launch tomorrow morning.



Found the problem. The wiring harness to the port trim pump was loose. this prevented the starboard pump from working as well. Easy fix with two people. One worked the switch and the other wiggled wires.

Gunn
05-02-2012, 07:30 AM
Think my port shift cable may need to be replaced. What kind of PITA am I lookin at there, with the twin 5.s. Don't want to hear" pull the manifold" Thanks for any insight.

I've done it twice on my 175 with Alpha I Gen II's. Not too bad. You'll have to remove the lower unit. The hard part will be guiding in the new shift cable through the shift cable bellows in the outdrive and then through the transom and into the ER behind the engine. Takes a bit of patience and then some twisting and contorting to get at the shift cable behind the engine.

The last time I did it, I had to replace the shift cable bellows due to a crack and did the shift cable since I had to remove it anyway. Took about 4hrs. start to finish. You'll need help to guide the cable through the transom.

EDIT: I should mention that if you mean the cable from the shifter, then all what I said doesn't apply. That's much easier yet and no real issues.

Tom

aquaaddiction
05-02-2012, 10:41 AM
I was going to wait till I had legal ownership before posting, but too excited and it is all done except the final money exchange; I have just purchased a 2001 280 :grin:

It needs a few odd jobs (I actually enjoy doing work on my boats), but has AC and generator, and twin 4.3 EFIs, and I am happy with the survey and mechanical inspection, and I got it at a good price (I think / hope...)

Only downside is that the boat is in NC, and I am in Australia so it will be a few months before I get to see it! For those of you that think this is crazy please let me explain that 1) boats cost less than half the price in the US than they do here, 2) In the US right now I could find pages of 280s for sale, and the cost to transport them across the US is reasonable; only one 280 has come up for sale in Western Australia in the last year (maybe it is the only one here) and that was too new / expensive for me, one is currently for sale on the East coast but thats over 3000 miles away and the transport costs combined with its high price makes that a no go too, so its what we have to do to try to get what we want. Fingers crossed it all arrives safe and well.

I have read this thread from start to end, not to mention the Searay manuals and even the parts diagrams (I knew about the secret compartment long ago, its not a secret, it shown in the parts manual for anyone sad enough like me who looks :lol:), but am sure I will have some questions as my mind goes into overdrive in anticipation.

Thanks to all the previous posters on this thread, I have learned so much from it already.

Anthony

Henry Boyd
05-02-2012, 12:09 PM
Tony,

Congrats on the new 280, welcome to the club. How are you having it shipped? Good thing winter is just starting in your part of the world. Since you seem to have the qualifications, what will it take to convert your new boat to 220? Can it be done without a wholesale appliance replacement?

Henry

aquaaddiction
05-03-2012, 06:25 AM
How are you having it shipped?


I am having a company called Marine Point in SC collect it, drop the arch, clean and wrap it, build a cradle, and ship it as RoRo freight. Yes its coming into winter here but it doesn't make me want it here tomorrow instead of 3 months time any less :smt089


How are you having it shipped?
Since you seem to have the qualifications, what will it take to convert your new boat to 220? Can it be done without a wholesale appliance replacement?


Unfortunately here in Australia my qualifications and several years running my own marine electronics business back in England donít count for squat, and I am not allowed by work as a marine electrician here unless I do a 3 year apprenticeship first. But I should be able to do the work then pay to just have it inspected. The boat wont be in a dock (rare here, boats with a dock space are worth more), I am on a swing mooring, but thats ok as I like sitting out on the water in the river enjoying the open view. Anyway the point is I will be off shore power and on on generator so it doesn't matter too much if it is still 110v for now.

Battery charger and microwave are pretty cheap to just swap out for new ones, the water heater unit is a bit rusted out and probably due replacement anyway, if not I can probably just swap the electric element out of it for a 240v one. The generator can be changed relatively easily to produce 240v; the aircon has 2 key 110v components, the water pump and the blower motor, they can be replaced by their 240v equivalents as spare parts but they are not cheap, will check if the blower motor at least is a rebranded generic one that can be more easily obtained, or maybe even have it rewound to 240v. I should be able to rig the generator to produce both 110V and 240v feeds simultaneously, but the fact that the US electricity is 60Hz instead of 50Hz for the rest of the world is just as much an issue in trying to convert as the generator can only do one at a time regardless of what voltage/s its running at. 60Hz would damage 240v 50Hz equipment, so would have to drop it down to 50Hz if run both voltages, then if the aircon is run on the 110v feed at 50hz it will have a 20% performance drop. Cabling and sockets are easy to swap out. So bottom line I am not sure exactly what I am going to do with it all yet until I can go over it in more detail and check the costs and availability of parts; but plan (A) of leaving as is for now is ok, main thing to be able charge batts and have aircon and hot water. Hmmm maybe I should import a cheap 110v kettle and toaster with it to begin with, I hadn't thought about that until now, hmm thats a good idea...

Anyway I am sure thats more than most people want or need to know about converting electrical systems!

Anthony

rmassey73
05-03-2012, 06:35 AM
just had boat put back in the water from winter, now I was flushing out water lines and I seem to be getting alot of air and sporadic water from pump, any ideas?

saopm
05-03-2012, 09:03 AM
....Battery charger and microwave are pretty cheap to just swap out for new ones, the water heater unit is a bit rusted out and probably due replacement anyway, if not I can probably just swap the electric element out of it for a 240v one.

Wow, that is an electrical problem. I think your best bet is to just run the Gen and keep the 110V system. Doesn't sound like you would plug in often anyway.

saopm
05-03-2012, 09:07 AM
just had boat put back in the water from winter, now I was flushing out water lines and I seem to be getting alot of air and sporadic water from pump, any ideas?

Sounds like you have loose connection on the suction side of the water pump. Does the pump run constantly? Check the connections between the water tank and pump. This is assuming the water tank if full.

aquaaddiction
05-03-2012, 09:53 AM
Wow, that is an electrical problem. I think your best bet is to just run the Gen and keep the 110V system. Doesn't sound like you would plug in often anyway.

I had thought about it but it means we cant run any locally sourced items such as tools etc, and also when somthing like the microwave dies one day its going to be pretty expensive to ship a 110v one over from the US; it will affect resale value when I one day part with her in the distant future. I think it will be fine to begin with but something to work on over time.

I have always enjoyed working on my boats, its part of the fun of having them for me (I actually think I would be lost with a new boat with nothing to fix or improve on it), but doing it professionaly spoiled that so I am glad I dont fix other peoples for a living any more and can just toy with mine as and when I want with no deadlines or people asking when it is going to be finished (except maybe SWMBO of course... :smt018).


Anthony

JimT
05-04-2012, 08:07 AM
When washing the boat yesterday I noticed water running out of the small hole at the bottom of the fiberglass cowling that covers the bilge blower fan on the starboard side. There is no drain hole on my port side blower cowling. Both cowlings are original as far as I know.
I have a persistent undiagnosed problem with water getting into the bilge when it rains. I am thinking the missing drain hole might be the cause of this as I have not been able to find another point of entry for the rainwater.
Do others have drain holes one or both of these cowlings?

Tonka Boater
05-04-2012, 08:56 AM
When washing the boat yesterday I noticed water running out of the small hole at the bottom of the fiberglass cowling that covers the bilge blower fan on the starboard side. There is no drain hole on my port side blower cowling. Both cowlings are original as far as I know.
I have a persistent undiagnosed problem with water getting into the bilge when it rains. I am thinking the missing drain hole might be the cause of this as I have not been able to find another point of entry for the rainwater.
Do others have drain holes one or both of these cowlings?

Yes. I just looked at some pics that I took this week and both vent covers do in fact have drain holes. I can post pics later today from my home computer.

scoflaw
05-04-2012, 09:56 AM
Jim, the only way to find your leak, is to get right in there when the leak is actually occuring and have a look see.

Henry Boyd
05-04-2012, 09:02 PM
Jim,

Also check the caulking of the vent cover. We had a leak from rain coming the camper side under the cover and down the vent ducts.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

JimT
05-05-2012, 06:39 AM
Jim,

Also check the caulking of the vent cover. We had a leak from rain coming the camper side under the cover and down the vent ducts.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Henry,

I have recaulked both covers and all of the joints at the stern. While washing I noticed on the starboard side that water flows freely out of the drain hole on the vent cover. On the port cover without the drain it backs up until it overflows. I will drill a drain hole and hope that solves the problem.

Tonka Boater
05-05-2012, 07:02 AM
Yes. I just looked at some pics that I took this week and both vent covers do in fact have drain holes. I can post pics later today from my home computer.


I have recaulked both covers and all of the joints at the stern. While washing I noticed on the starboard side that water flows freely out of the drain hole on the vent cover. On the port cover without the drain it backs up until it overflows. I will drill a drain hole and hope that solves the problem.

Here's a pic of my port side cover....

http://www.anonen.com/images/photo4.jpg

Bucit
05-07-2012, 11:32 AM
Does anyone have the conversion chart for the courtesy lights to change them to LED's? I know it;s been on here numerous times but when I search for them it pulls up a lot of random posts and I don't have a lot of time today to read through all of them to find what I need. Thanks!

Tonka Boater
05-07-2012, 02:04 PM
Does anyone have the conversion chart for the courtesy lights to change them to LED's? I know it;s been on here numerous times but when I search for them it pulls up a lot of random posts and I don't have a lot of time today to read through all of them to find what I need. Thanks!

Here's the link to the post in this thread -- it's post 880:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/10064-Official-280-Sundancer-Thread?p=330907#post330907

The bulbs vary slightly from year to year though. I went through Kevin's list and found some of my bulbs were different.

Bucit
05-07-2012, 02:52 PM
Here's the link to the post in this thread -- it's post 880:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/10064-Official-280-Sundancer-Thread?p=330907#post330907

The bulbs vary slightly from year to year though. I went through Kevin's list and found some of my bulbs were different.

Thanks! That's the one I was looking for.

Fun_in_the_Sun
05-08-2012, 02:33 PM
I am replacing the speaker in my 2009 280 DA... does anyone know what the max depth the speakers can be in the arch. I guess I could take one out and measure but I am not at the marina. Thanks in advance...

wvsundancer
05-08-2012, 02:45 PM
Thanks! That's the one I was looking for. went to their site and they show the lights for the reading lamps down below are now a 6 light not a 4 light. Does anyone know if these will fit. BTW these little buggers are expensive. BTW 2003 model will the lights that are posted fit my model ???

wvsundancer
05-08-2012, 03:20 PM
learned a new one this past weekend and I hope I don't get too much "are you serious??" from our more seasoned DIY 280 folks..but here goes.. there is a filter screen atached to the water pump on the inlet side that can get clogged.. ( ask me how I know).. anyway there is a black knob that you unscrew.. then there is a white colored plactic valve that attaches to the pump, you hold on to the part attached to the pump and turn the other 1/2- 1/2" turn and it comes out. If yours was like mine it will be full of crud.. if you find your water running slow look here first ... just saying

jason78
05-08-2012, 05:36 PM
went to their site and they show the lights for the reading lamps down below are now a 6 light not a 4 light. Does anyone know if these will fit. BTW these little buggers are expensive. BTW 2003 model will the lights that are posted fit my model ???

I'll let you know this weekend. I ordered one to try out. I am thinking they just added 2 more LEDS to increase the output. The diameter appears the same.

ChiefScientist
05-09-2012, 11:28 AM
I would like to replace the cockpit cooler. Really - it's just a kludge. When loaded, it's heavy and you have to "bump the heavy cooler over the door lip." Enthusiastic drinkers make quite a racket when performing the kludge operation. Kid's have a problem getting a soft drink. To help allievate this kludge, my buddy in the marina made a really nice pull-out shelf that the exiting cooler sits on. It's a vast improvement over "bumping a heavy cooler over the door."

My order of preference is something immediate for the summer to a long term winter project. There are some complications. I have a 2008 with the optional sound system so I have a big subwoofer behind the captain's chair. It significantly intrudes into the cooler space somewhat. The other interference is the "ice bucket/counter top cooler"

Something immediate for the summer would be a thermoelectric cooler. It would be great to combine a cooler with the "slide out shelf" idea. I'm going to try the Coleman Thermo. I will just keep it if it fits and if not, use it at the slip. The Coleman is a 40 quart cooler. But just about all the reasonable thermoelectrics (unless you go very small) that I have found are bigger and heaver than the existing cooler and that will just aggravate the "bump the heavy cooler over the door" problem - if they fit at all. Smaller ones are WAY smaller. Do you guys have a handle on one that fits and has a reasonable capacity?

A sightly longer time scale (and WAY more expensive) would be replacing the door with a cockpit fridge. I can handle the vents and wiring. I searched the forum and there are lots of good tips out there, but with the intrusion of the subwoofer and the interference of the ice bucket, the published dimensions of the coolers are suspect. - Do you guys know one that fits?

A much longer time scale would be a winter project with a completely custom fabricated unit. Other than my time, this might be the cheaper route. I would most likely buy a door and fab the rest. I have all the refrigeration equipment and a EPA 608 certification. I would put the condensing unit in the engine compartment. What do you guys think of this? Do you know anyone that has gone this route?

Thanks!

Nehalennia
05-09-2012, 11:37 AM
Brett
I have a similar set up in my boat. The cockpit cooler is below the lip, which obviously holds it in but I've thought about building a shelf one of these can sit on top of and then stow stuff under the shelf.
http://www.coleman.com/product/3000000433
http://r1.coleman.com/ProductImages/Regular/3000000433_500.jpg

Henry Boyd
05-09-2012, 02:12 PM
The cooler was gone years ago. Now we use the space for storing the grill, grill leg and misc other stuff. The space is also useful for mounting electronic components such as the fluxgate compass and heading computer. The aft side of the sink works fine as a cooler with a plug to keep the water from draining.

Henry

kkalsch
05-09-2012, 03:09 PM
Finally getting around to mounting the radar dome this weekend...where do you think the best place to pull the power from? Garmin 740s combo -I am already pulling power from the 12 volt socket for the GPS

Henry Boyd
05-09-2012, 04:09 PM
When I installed the radar in ours I ran a ground and power lead (10 gauge?) from the main terminals on the forward EIM to a new fuse box I mounted under the dash on the starboard side. The photo shows the set up. This way you can add additional unique fused circuits for each new item. The other terminal strips are for the SeaTalk devices and the NMEA connections for the AIS and VHF DSC.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr303/SR280DA/IMG_0718.jpg

Henry

Tonka Boater
05-09-2012, 04:16 PM
The aft side of the sink works fine as a cooler with a plug to keep the water from draining.

I agree -- this was my best cool mod. I bought a rubber stopper at Home Depot to keep the water from draining and the aft sink keep drinks cold all day. Way better and more convenient than the cooler. I use the cooler as a storage bin now. I bought a couple of Rubber Made storgage boxes to store misc items and extra sunscreen, etc and keep them in the cooler so they don't bang around. I keep the grill in the bilge.

scoflaw
05-09-2012, 05:03 PM
I've got my raydome wired to the unused fwd acc. switch. You can pick this unused wire up at the forward EIM, it is labeled and terminates about 4" from the EIM

kkalsch
05-09-2012, 06:54 PM
Thank you Henry and scoflaw -quick question just to verify- the forward EIM is located right under the shift handles and there's a hatch you open to get to the breakers
Thanks

Henry Boyd
05-09-2012, 07:25 PM
Thank you Henry and scoflaw -quick question just to verify- the forward EIM is located right under the shift handles and there's a hatch you open to get to the breakers
Thanks

yup

themikehyde
05-09-2012, 08:38 PM
Has anyone looked at moving the batteries forward into the unused space? I usually keep a crate with my fluids and tools there, but was thinking about moving the batteries forward about 18". The cables appear to be long enough. I was thinking that the weight of 3 batteries 18" forward may not be bad either. The space where the batteries are now looks like it might be a good spot to store a grill. Any thoughts?

Tonka Boater
05-09-2012, 09:06 PM
Has anyone looked at moving the batteries forward into the unused space? I usually keep a crate with my fluids and tools there, but was thinking about moving the batteries forward about 18". The cables appear to be long enough. I was thinking that the weight of 3 batteries 18" forward may not be bad either. The space where the batteries are now looks like it might be a good spot to store a grill. Any thoughts?

I think the only issue would be accessibility but I like the idea.

themikehyde
05-09-2012, 09:56 PM
I was thinking about that too. I had thought of maybe a sliding tray, which held all 3 batteries. It would have to have some sort of lock down to secure it and obviously enough slack in the cables to allow it to travel.

aquaaddiction
05-10-2012, 05:14 AM
Just seen these engine vent covers on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SeaRay-280-Cover-DECK-VENT-PORT-1473735-STBD-1473743-/160798202320?pt=Boat_Parts_AccessoriesSea _Gear&hash=item257051d9d0&vxp=mtr

No idea if genuine or a copy or any good but seen mention on here of SR asking $800 for them so thought I would share in case of help to someone.


Anthony

Henry Boyd
05-10-2012, 06:01 AM
I paid $375 for one last year. It by the way was in black plastic, not white. Either way figure another 100 -200 $ per vent for matching gel coat and installation.

Henry

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

JimT
05-10-2012, 06:02 AM
Just seen these engine vent covers on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SeaRay-280-Cover-DECK-VENT-PORT-1473735-STBD-1473743-/160798202320?pt=Boat_Parts_AccessoriesSea _Gear&hash=item257051d9d0&vxp=mtr

No idea if genuine or a copy or any good but seen mention on here of SR asking $800 for them so thought I would share in case of help to someone.


Anthony

That's a great price if you need one. Sea Ray no longer stocks them and the cost to have one special made is outrageous.

saopm
05-10-2012, 07:52 AM
That is a nice find, just a year to late for me. The crooks at MM got me.

Bucit
05-10-2012, 09:27 AM
Stupid question but I need to change out (or re-charge) my Sealand Stink Filter (holding tank). My holding tank shows half full right now. Here is the stupid question- can i change this out with a half full tank or should I wait until I pump it out? Only number 1 in the holding tank. I didn't know if I remove the filter now if it would stink up the whole boat? Thanks!

jason78
05-10-2012, 10:08 AM
Stupid question but I need to change out (or re-charge) my Sealand Stink Filter (holding tank). My holding tank shows half full right now. Here is the stupid question- can i change this out with a half full tank or should I wait until I pump it out? Only number 1 in the holding tank. I didn't know if I remove the filter now if it would stink up the whole boat? Thanks!

I would not think a half tank would be a problem when changing that filter. Just be careful of when you take it off just in case the PO let the tank get to full and caused "liquid" to enter the filter assembly at some point. Also, make sure you get the garden hose style gaskets back in on each side.

Henry Boyd
05-10-2012, 10:09 AM
The tank volume shouldn't matter (as long as its less than full), its only a garden hose sized fitting. In this case changing out might be swifter than re-charging. Obviously, don't let anyone flush while it is disconnected or you will get major stinko.

Henry

Bucit
05-10-2012, 10:12 AM
Great. Thanks for the response. Looks like I'll be doing it this weekend.

Nehalennia
05-10-2012, 10:30 AM
Stupid question but I need to change out (or re-charge) my Sealand Stink Filter (holding tank). My holding tank shows half full right now. Here is the stupid question- can i change this out with a half full tank or should I wait until I pump it out? Only number 1 in the holding tank. I didn't know if I remove the filter now if it would stink up the whole boat? Thanks!

It won't but a dust mask and a trash bag to place it in so you don't spill it all over your bilge is a good idea. I'm due this year too. I was thinking about trying the redneck charcoal replacement this time.

Bucit
05-10-2012, 10:46 AM
It won't but a dust mask and a trash bag to place it in so you don't spill it all over your bilge is a good idea. I'm due this year too. I was thinking about trying the redneck charcoal replacement this time.

That's what I'm going to try too. Looks pretty straight forward and if it doesn't work then I'm out about $5.00

JimT
05-10-2012, 03:57 PM
Here's a pic of my port side cover....

http://www.anonen.com/images/photo4.jpg

I drilled a hole in the vent cover today and water ran out for 30 seconds. Clearly, these drain holes serve a purpose. We had about two inches of rain over the past three days and I had water in the bilge after being dry the past 10 days when we had little rain. I am hopeful this solves this problem. Weather forecast dry this weekend. I will update after the next big rain. Thanks for the help.

gsmallwood
05-10-2012, 03:58 PM
recharging the filter might be the easiest thing done on this thread. Removing and reinstalling it is more difficult than rebuilding it. Can be done for 10.00, depends on how much carbon pellets you buy.

MExcelsior
05-10-2012, 04:04 PM
Ok everyone! This thread has been absolutely wonderful in giving some ideas and I thought I would return a couple of my own! (or at least show how I implemented your ideas)

Enjoy
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4e0d3-2cd4-ca90.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4e0d3-2ce8-f80e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4e0d3-2cfa-39ca.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4e0d3-2d0c-029e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4e0d3-2d24-45d5.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4e0d3-2d38-c43f.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4e0d3-2d53-c909.jpg

MExcelsior
05-10-2012, 04:12 PM
In description to my previous thread, I got tired of doing the puzzle putting the covers on the cockpit sink. (you know what I'm talking about ; )) I purchased some handles and fixed to the existing holes! Cons are that I lose flat surface, but the plus was that I no longer have to flip and guess which is which and I was able to put some insulation under the cover for the cooler side.

We also found a great table for the cockpit!

Found a great swivel attachment for the cabin sink. It swivels and when you pull, it becomes a sprayer! Also replaced the shower head with a real one with a shutoff.

I was going to build shelves for the port side closet, but my wife came found a great solution with a hanging storage boxes for 10 bucks

aquaaddiction
05-13-2012, 07:35 AM
Hi,

Just ordering some spare parts before my boat arrives (most parts are difficult to find here in Australia, I wish West Marine would open out here!); anyway does anyone know the details or have a pic of the pressure relief valve on the holding tank (presuming there is one)? I understand there is normally one on the ame but cant see it on the Sea Ray parts diagram for the 280, but if there is one I want to order a spare along with the usual duck bills and bowl seals etc to fix the vacuum pump that runs constantly.

Thanks,

Anthony.

jason78
05-13-2012, 02:09 PM
went to their site and they show the lights for the reading lamps down below are now a 6 light not a 4 light. Does anyone know if these will fit. BTW these little buggers are expensive. BTW 2003 model will the lights that are posted fit my model ???


I'll let you know this weekend. I ordered one to try out. I am thinking they just added 2 more LEDS to increase the output. The diameter appears the same.

Yes, the 6 light model fits and lights reasonably well in the cabin swivel fixtures. Not quite as much light output as the standard bulb but I think it will work. I can't imangine having just the 4LED version though. I was not impressed at all with the "Tower" bulb that goes in the Light located in Head and the one just over the AC/DC panel. It looks like a dim fluorcent bulb with "greenish" color even though it is supposed to be "Warm White". Will probably return that one.

ZZ13
05-13-2012, 03:10 PM
Yes, the 6 light model fits and lights reasonably well in the cabin swivel fixtures. Not quite as much light output as the standard bulb but I think it will work. I can't imangine having just the 4LED version though. I was not impressed at all with the "Tower" bulb that goes in the Light located in Head and the one just over the AC/DC panel. It looks like a dim fluorcent bulb with "greenish" color even though it is supposed to be "Warm White". Will probably return that one.Over in the 300DA forum there's data about using first the 15LED tower from Superbrightleds and settling on the 18LED tower in the swivel lamps G4 socket. Quite a different bulb from the 6 LED you are trying. Not sure if the two models have the same fixture.

jason78
05-13-2012, 03:59 PM
Over in the 300DA forum there's data about using first the 15LED tower from Superbrightleds and settling on the 18LED tower in the swivel lamps G4 socket. Quite a different bulb from the 6 LED you are trying. Not sure if the two models have the same fixture.


The 18LED Tower (1156 Style) is the one I used in the head and ceiling light that had a greenish hue and was so dim it was dissapointing. I got them all from superbright.

Ill check out the G4 tower. If it is short enough for the lens to fit on I may give it a try. The problem with using a tower light in the swivel lamp is the light is directed in to the sides of the shade rather than out the end. May be worth a try though, thanks for the heads up. They seem to have a fair return policy.

aquaaddiction
05-14-2012, 07:48 AM
Hi,

Does anyone know what spin on filter element is used for the fuel filter / water seperator on the Kohler generator installations?

thanks

JimFromMD
05-14-2012, 02:16 PM
If it is short enough for the lens to fit on I may give it a try. The problem with using a tower light in the swivel lamp is the light is directed in to the sides of the shade rather than out the end. May be worth a try though, thanks for the heads up. They seem to have a fair return policy.

Hey Jason,
If we have the same swivel lights, the 18 LED bulb will fit. Also it has 3 (if memory serves) leds on the outward facing end of the bulb, and the fixture has a mirrored back, so a lot of light goes out the end and also around the fixture as you pointed out.

I really like them.

-James

JimFromMD
05-14-2012, 02:17 PM
Hi,

Does anyone know what spin on filter element is used for the fuel filter / water seperator on the Kohler generator installations?

thanks

In my boat setup its the same mercruiser spin on water separating filter as is used for the engines.

James

jason78
05-14-2012, 02:21 PM
Hey Jason,
If we have the same swivel lights, the 18 LED bulb will fit. Also it has 3 (if memory serves) leds on the outward facing end of the bulb, and the fixture has a mirrored back, so a lot of light goes out the end and also around the fixture as you pointed out.

I really like them.

-James

Thanks James, yes they are the same swivel lights. I may give it a shot then as long as it is really Warm White and does not have the greenish hue that the 1156 Style Tower has. Can you provide the exact superbriteled part number so I can be sure to get the right one? Thanks!

ZZ13
05-14-2012, 06:25 PM
Thanks James, yes they are the same swivel lights. I may give it a shot then as long as it is really Warm White and does not have the greenish hue that the 1156 Style Tower has. Can you provide the exact superbriteled part number so I can be sure to get the right one? Thanks!http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/458-300-Sundancer-questions?p=534774#post534774

scoflaw
05-14-2012, 06:26 PM
Jim from MD, mine takes a 35-802893t water separator filter

Gunn
05-14-2012, 09:01 PM
Hi,

Does anyone know what spin on filter element is used for the fuel filter / water seperator on the Kohler generator installations?

thanks

I use the 5 micron Sierra filters, # 18-7945.

Sent from my LG Thrill 3D using Tapatalk 2

JimFromMD
05-15-2012, 09:54 AM
Thanks James, yes they are the same swivel lights. I may give it a shot then as long as it is really Warm White and does not have the greenish hue that the 1156 Style Tower has. Can you provide the exact superbriteled part number so I can be sure to get the right one? Thanks!

Yes... I would say the light is white to slightly yellow, vs the cool white which was more a white/blue pure white color. Neither of which I would say have a green tint/hue... But then again... I've been known to argue with CINC-House about what paint colors look like while in homedepot too!

The led towers with the smaller LED count were too dim for my taste. The 18 was about right. Part numbers in here:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/458-300-Sundancer-questions?p=534774#post534774

James

Bucit
05-15-2012, 11:23 AM
I just thought of something that occurred a couple of weeks ago. I was running the genny and had the AC, fridge and battery charger on. Everything was fine until I turned on the water heater. The genny really bogged down and the AC compressor sounded weak too. Do you guys have this problem? I ended up shutting off the AC while I had the water heater on and then swtiched once we had hot water but didn;t know if this is normal. Thanks!

pepper
05-15-2012, 12:44 PM
You cannot use the water heater and the ac at the same time. On my third boat and the other two were the same.

Bucit
05-15-2012, 12:47 PM
You cannot use the water heater and the ac at the same time. On my third boat and the other two were the same.

Thanks!

Tonka Boater
05-15-2012, 12:51 PM
You cannot use the water heater and the ac at the same time. On my third boat and the other two were the same.

Can you qualify this a little more? I've never tried running both with the gen -- is it because the gen can't output enough to power them both or is there another reason?

Bucit
05-15-2012, 01:54 PM
Can you qualify this a little more? I've never tried running both with the gen -- is it because the gen can't output enough to power them both or is there another reason?

I'm assuming the heater and AC draw too much, especially the way it sounded but I didn;t know if this is normal for our set up or did I have an issue. I replaced the water heater with a new Attwood SS one and the AC is original form 2005. I have the Kohler 5e genny.

melida
05-15-2012, 02:12 PM
I just thought of something that occurred a couple of weeks ago. I was running the genny and had the AC, fridge and battery charger on. Everything was fine until I turned on the water heater. The genny really bogged down and the AC compressor sounded weak too. Do you guys have this problem? I ended up shutting off the AC while I had the water heater on and then swtiched once we had hot water but didn;t know if this is normal. Thanks!

It's normal, too much load at same time then genny can handle.
Not familiar with your genny, since it's gas powered and 110volts, but there is easy math.
Sum the ampers of air conditioner, battery charger and fridge(running from AC power source) should almost reach what's the continious output of genny in terms of ampers.
So plus these water heater exceeds the ampers genny produce.
This calculation is same for how much your shore power supplies ampers.

scootdogg
05-15-2012, 07:30 PM
is it possible to change my shifter to something similar to this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Smartcraft-DTS-Yacht-Control-Can-Pad-/200696072024#vi-content

i am having ongoing troubles...

Ididntdoit
05-15-2012, 07:47 PM
is it possible to change my shifter to something similar to this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Smartcraft-DTS-Yacht-Control-Can-Pad-/200696072024#vi-content

i am having ongoing troubles...
Anything is possible but you would end up with more in the project than the boat is worth......what are your troubles? Cable related? If your looking to go aftermarket check livorsi or look for a later model mercruiser (2005 and later maybe) that still uses cables

Tonka Boater
05-15-2012, 09:09 PM
is it possible to change my shifter to something similar to this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Smartcraft-DTS-Yacht-Control-Can-Pad-/200696072024#vi-content

i am having ongoing troubles...

Not unless you have DTS...that particular shifter is digital. You need a mechanical shifter but Mercury doesn't make a similar mechanical version.

scootdogg
05-16-2012, 07:03 PM
i am just tired of the bumping into gear... not so smooth shifts... it just doesnt feel that "positive" when going in and out of gear...

aquaaddiction
05-17-2012, 05:30 AM
Jim from MD, mine takes a 35-802893t water separator filter


I use the 5 micron Sierra filters, # 18-7945.

I think we have a winner, both of those equate to the same filter so sounds like the right one

thanks guys :smt038

Anthony

Ididntdoit
05-17-2012, 07:12 AM
i am just tired of the bumping into gear... not so smooth shifts... it just doesnt feel that "positive" when going in and out of gear...That is because you have alpha drives - they have no clutches - bravo drives shift much smoother - as i stated earlier, if you use livorsi 4 handle controlls they would separate the throttle and shift functions (like an inboard powered boat) and you could just throw the levers quickly and completely into gear without fear of engaging the throttle at low speeds

Bucit
05-17-2012, 08:50 AM
+1 on the shifting nature of the alpha drives. Most will "clunk" into gear. Some are worse than others but doesn't mean there is anything wrong with them. That's just their nature.

ppkaprince98
05-17-2012, 03:37 PM
I hate the big clunk into gear also. Mine is very hard to shift, I let my wife try it once and she pushed so hard to get it out of neutral, that when it finally went she floored the boat and we all almost went flying out the back. I always figured something was too tight in the shift cable or the detent needed some smoothing out.

saopm
05-17-2012, 07:47 PM
My last boat had the Volvo Penta Duo Prop. The previous owner upgraded the shifter cables too. That thing shifted like butter. It was disappointing moving on to Alpha's. The only bright side is if you blow up an alpha it is pretty reasonable to replace. Other then that, happy clunking!

Bridog
05-17-2012, 09:06 PM
It's normal, too much load at same time then genny can handle.
Not familiar with your genny, since it's gas powered and 110volts, but there is easy math.
Sum the ampers of air conditioner, battery charger and fridge(running from AC power source) should almost reach what's the continious output of genny in terms of ampers.
So plus these water heater exceeds the ampers genny produce.
This calculation is same for how much your shore power supplies ampers.I have the Kohler 5E on my boat. I've run the AC ( 12K unit) water heater, both stove burners, microwave, and everything else on the AC panel and never had a problem with the generator. They are sized from SR to run everything on the boat.

Gunn
05-17-2012, 09:11 PM
I hate the big clunk into gear also. Mine is very hard to shift, I let my wife try it once and she pushed so hard to get it out of neutral, that when it finally went she floored the boat and we all almost went flying out the back. I always figured something was too tight in the shift cable or the detent needed some smoothing out.

Well, it shouldn't be that hard to shift. Your controller should move with a firm feel and some resistance to prevent it from drifting on it's own, but should not be difficult. On my 280, as I push into gear, I'll hear the gears meshing...the starboard does so more than the port. So I have to push a bit quicker and firmer to get them to mesh and into gear. But it's not hard. But I would love to have digital shifters!

Tom

Gunn
05-17-2012, 09:15 PM
I have the Kohler 5E on my boat. I've run the AC ( 12K unit) water heater, both stove burners, microwave, and everything else on the AC panel and never had a problem with the generator. They are sized from SR to run everything on the boat.



Glad you confirmed, because I could swear on more than a couple of occasion last season, I had everything running, including microwave and stove, with with air and water heater on...a common dinner time routine. The generator loads up (which is good) but has never thrown the breaker or any other issues.


Tom

ChiefScientist
05-18-2012, 03:04 AM
On the Alpha Shifting, my ski boat has an 4.3L Alpha. There is a little ignition interrupter on the shift mechanism by the carb. It's purpose is to make the engine shut off for the brief instant it goes into and out of gear. I have found that adjusting this to a longer engine shutoff interval GREATLY EASES shifting. My Alpha used to grind it's way into gear and after adjusting, it is almost as smooth as my DTS on my 496Mag Bravo 3. Also, a too high an idle speed causes a big clunk. Lower the idle speed if you can.

ppkaprince98
05-18-2012, 07:02 AM
Well, it shouldn't be that hard to shift. Your controller should move with a firm feel and some resistance to prevent it from drifting on it's own, but should not be difficult. On my 280, as I push into gear, I'll hear the gears meshing...the starboard does so more than the port. So I have to push a bit quicker and firmer to get them to mesh and into gear. But it's not hard. But I would love to have digital shifters!

Tom

Tom,
I had a 4.3 Merc with an Alpha 1 that had the common clunk that everyone is referring to, but my current Bravo III is hard to get out of gear! Is there something I can check out or adjust to improve that?

JimT
05-18-2012, 07:35 AM
If remove the black housing at the base of the shift levers there are two screws on the levers that control the tension and the detent. They are hard to access so you will need a short screwdriver.

bajturner
05-18-2012, 09:07 AM
Before the beginning of last season I had the shift cables replaced because the shifts were clunky, stiff, and in the case of the port engine, not always crisp. The new cables corrected the stiffness and the big clunks, but highlighted a different problem with the port drive. Apparently, over time the cables stretch and make it impossible to synchronize the engine interrupt with the mechanical engagement. This contributes to the stiffness, and is the root cause of the big clunk.

Once the cables were replaced, the problem with the port engine became very clear. It would not shift smoothly into reverse, rather it would rattle around until it caught. The problem was a worn dog-clutch. I possibly could have gotten through the season with it but I just replaced the entire lower unit instead.

Here is a picture of a dog clutch:

25083

It is inline with the prop shaft in the lower unit and slides one direction for forward, and the other for reverse, engaging mating surfaces on bevel gears that rotate in opposite directions off the pinion gear. Once the edges become round on the dog clutch, it bounces off its mating surface rather than positively setting. Without the interrupt, or a mis-timed interrupt, the mismatch in rates is too much for this type of setup causing clickety shifts (or no shifts), and also damaging the clutch. The stretched cables were likely the root cause of the problem in my case. I only provide this detail because once you can visualize the physical setup, what you hear and feel makes more sense.

Bravo IIIs have a very different setup with a cone clutch located in the upper unit as part of the upper gear set. The overall gearing concept is similar, but the cone clutch has a more elegant engagement style.

Bucit
05-18-2012, 09:09 AM
I agree that although you may hear a 'clunk" the shifter shouldn't be that hard to put into gear. If it is then you are probably time for new cables. Also worth noting is that when shifting it is better to quickly put in into gear rather than babying it and hear those gears grinding. I've had many friends that gently pushed thier outboards into gear and I would cringe. You will wear down the gears much faster this way.

I'll have to try it again and run everything off the genny. It would be rare that I do this but was really curious if you actually could do it. If it starts to bog down the AC compressor (which is what it sounded like) I'll just get the cabin nice and cold then shut off the AC for 20-30 mintes while the water heater is doing it's job. Even in the summer I can hang meat in my cabin. Man does it get cold in there. It's like staying at a Holiday Inn Express with the air tunred down to 62. You freeze at night but it's nice to wake up to.

wvsundancer
05-18-2012, 12:50 PM
Wanted to update everyone on the instal of my Hurley Marine Trim Tab lights.. The instal went great until we tried using them.. we installed both wires to the aft ac switch but the breaker would not hold. We took two of the wires and added them to Acc#2 on the starboard side of the switch panel. FWD acc was not useable. Anyway lights are working great. Just thought I would update everyone who is considering this MOD. Can't wait to show off my lights at "Lve at the levee" this weekend ..Kenny Wayne Shepard is kicking off the season.

jason78
05-18-2012, 12:52 PM
Wanted to update everyone on the instal of my Hurley Marine Trim Tab lights.. The instal went great until we tried using them.. we installed both wires to the aft ac switch but the breaker would not hold. We took two of the wires and added them to Acc#2 on the starboard side of the switch panel. FWD acc was not useable. Anyway lights are working great. Just thought I would update everyone who is considering this MOD. Can't wait to show off my lights at "Lve at the levee" this weekend ..Kenny Wayne Shepard is kicking off the season.

Thanks for the update, so you have one light working off the AFT Acc circuit and the other light working off the ACC2? Any pics??

Bucit
05-18-2012, 01:11 PM
Why would LED lights be blowing the breaker? They don't use that much power.

wvsundancer
05-18-2012, 01:16 PM
The Hurley marine are HID's not wimpy LED's.. Each bulb (there are 4 draw 5 amps). What I did was split the wires from each side so when I turn on the first set with Aft ACC. I have one light on the port side and one light on the starboard come on. The #2 ACC turns on the other two. Hopefully will post pics this weekend.

Bucit
05-18-2012, 01:23 PM
The Hurley marine are HID's not wimpy LED's.. Each bulb (there are 4 draw 5 amps). What I did was split the wires from each side so when I turn on the first set with Aft ACC. I have one light on the port side and one light on the starboard come on. The #2 ACC turns on the other two. Hopefully will post pics this weekend.

Sorry I thought they were LED's. Looking forward to pics.

Mike1
05-19-2012, 09:48 AM
First season on my 280. Looking for ideas on which grill is best fit and mounting ideas. Considering round Magma using rod holder mount. Could place clamp on rod holder to the transom locker door. I would remove and store after use. Open to any ideas or pictures.

Gunn
05-19-2012, 10:10 AM
Before the beginning of last season I had the shift cables replaced because the shifts were clunky, stiff, and in the case of the port engine, not always crisp. The new cables corrected the stiffness and the big clunks, but highlighted a different problem with the port drive. Apparently, over time the cables stretch and make it impossible to synchronize the engine interrupt with the mechanical engagement. This contributes to the stiffness, and is the root cause of the big clunk.

Once the cables were replaced, the problem with the port engine became very clear. It would not shift smoothly into reverse, rather it would rattle around until it caught. The problem was a worn dog-clutch. I possibly could have gotten through the season with it but I just replaced the entire lower unit instead.

Here is a picture of a dog clutch:

25083



Thanks for this info. This sounds exactly what my issue may be with one of my drives. It won't engage as easily as the other and will want to rattle around until I give it a bit more lever to get it to engage. I'll check and adjust the cable, but this clutch may be worn on mine also.

Tom

DMarcel
05-19-2012, 07:32 PM
2003 280DA
Have an overheat problem at low rpms. When I rev the engine the temp drops.
Impeller in outdrives were just changed, could it be a thermostat or the main water pump?

masilobes
05-19-2012, 09:16 PM
Mine did that when I had mine changed. Thoughts it was all those things, thermostat... Changed everything and still did it. Eventually it stopped maybe a break in period?
Could be something else though so be careful
Sent from my VTAB1008 using Tapatalk

scoflaw
05-20-2012, 07:16 AM
Does everyone here have a bone dry bilge? If not, why not?

I'm picking up a couple of cups of water after 5 miles of cruising. Will not leak a drop at the slip, or when running the motors at the dock. Don't see a water trail either.

Henry Boyd
05-20-2012, 08:23 AM
Ours has gone from bone dry to wet until we discovered the blower vent cover caulking had failed and rain water was running down the camper side under the blower cover and down the blower ducts. Fixed that and then we started getting water from a bad steering pin seal on the transom. Fixed that and then we started getting water from one of exhaust raw water cooling rails. Fixed that last fall and now we are back to dry.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Mfortune
05-20-2012, 01:28 PM
I think I've seen the answer to my question somewhere in here but I just can't find it. So here is the question.

On Friday my family went out and spent the night on the hook. Everything worked fine. Saturday Am when I started the engines up, everything ran fine, but all of my gauges were dead. I've checked the 3 fuse panels that I'm aware of (1 near the aft near batt switches / 1 near the helm in the access panel / 1 engine room behind batts) and nothing is tripped. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your help!!

kaz911
05-21-2012, 06:47 AM
Hi guys,

I'm looking to upgrade my 210 Select to a 280 SDA - and I am looking at model year 2009/2010/2011. What advise can you give me? :-) I noticed a "big" change in proportions from 2009 to 2010 model. Any opinions on how it affect stability? (the 2010 is not as wide as the 2009 was) - and what else should I look out for? And how is dual vs single engine?

But any advice appreciated !

jason78
05-21-2012, 07:51 AM
Hi guys,

I'm looking to upgrade my 210 Select to a 280 SDA - and I am looking at model year 2009/2010/2011. What advise can you give me? :-) I noticed a "big" change in proportions from 2009 to 2010 model. Any opinions on how it affect stability? (the 2010 is not as wide as the 2009 was) - and what else should I look out for? And how is dual vs single engine?

But any advice appreciated !

The 2010+ 280DA is an entirely different boat than the 2002-2009 280DA. Although the dimensions are not exactly the same, the 2010+ 280DA is essentially the replacement for the last generation 260DA. The 2010+ 310 DA most closely matches the 2002-2009 280DA.

With that said, there is alot of information in this thread although it is really geared toward the 2002-2009 model. There is even some discussion about twin vs single here as well.

Tonka Boater
05-21-2012, 08:24 AM
The 2010+ 280DA is an entirely different boat than the 2002-2009 280DA. Although the dimensions are not exactly the same, the 2010+ 280DA is essentially the replacement for the last generation 260DA. The 2010+ 310 DA most closely matches the 2002-2009 280DA.

With that said, there is alot of information in this thread although it is really geared toward the 2002-2009 model. There is even some discussion about twin vs single here as well.

Slight correction....the 2009 270DA was re-badged as the 2010 and newer 280DA (not the 260DA). The 280DA was introduced in 2001 and the hull and cabin layouts were unchanged from 2001-2009. Upholstery and cabinetry were refined during that time period as tastes changed but the vessel is the same. The current 2010+ 280's are completely different boats than the 2001-2009 280DA.

I can't comment on ride characteristics because I haven't driven the new 280. I think the big difference is that the 01-09 models offered the option for twin engines. I could be wrong but I don't think the newer versions offer twins. Jason is correct, the new 310 most closely matches the dimensions of the 01-09 280 but the new 310 is way more spacious in the cabin....LOA and beam are about identical though.

themikehyde
05-21-2012, 08:47 AM
Has anyone had to replace the little spring loaded studs that are in the telescoping camper top/bimini poles? I had one break yesterday and had to engineer something to keep the camper top from flapping all the way home. Not sure if this is a Sea Ray or Taylor item.

Mike

Henry Boyd
05-21-2012, 08:55 AM
Mike,

I believe those are just a stud that is welded to a vee shaped piece of spring steel. The vee is compressed and just pushed up into the tube until it pops out of the hole. You probably can get them from a local boat canvas shop.

Henry

Sun Chaser
05-21-2012, 09:17 AM
Hope this is what your looking for.

Try Valley Tool & Die Inc. North Royalton Ohio. I just ordered those about 4-5 months ago. Their phone# is 440-237-0160. The part# I ordered is B131XS Valco Snap-Button.

Glenn

jason78
05-21-2012, 09:41 AM
Has anyone had to replace the little spring loaded studs that are in the telescoping camper top/bimini poles? I had one break yesterday and had to engineer something to keep the camper top from flapping all the way home. Not sure if this is a Sea Ray or Taylor item.

Mike

I believe this may be what you are looking for- http://www.sailrite.com/Spring-Ball-Stainless-Steel

Bucit
05-21-2012, 09:58 AM
Does everyone here have a bone dry bilge? If not, why not?

I'm picking up a couple of cups of water after 5 miles of cruising. Will not leak a drop at the slip, or when running the motors at the dock. Don't see a water trail either.

I get about the same but over a full day of boating. It drives me crazy and I still haven't found where the water is coming from.

jason78
05-21-2012, 10:05 AM
I get about the same but over a full day of boating. It drives me crazy and I still haven't found where the water is coming from.

Some water may be coming in through the Bilge Pump lines when coming off plane since the thru hulls are so close to the water line. I have been told by a friend with a 280 that installing a Whale In Line check valve in the two lines eliminated the problem he was having. I have not personally tried it yet.

themikehyde
05-21-2012, 10:07 AM
Thanks guys, while looking tfor the tool & Die online, I asaw the Sailrite link and ordered 4 of them, That is what I love about this group!

As for dry bilge, last year I has a small amount (maybe 1/2 cup/day) coming in thru the drain plug hole. I put a rubber plug on the inside, and it stayed bone dry. I removed both drain plug fittings and reseated them with 3M 5200 last week. I just put her back in Saturday, so we will see.

jason78
05-21-2012, 10:20 AM
As for dry bilge, last year I has a small amount (maybe 1/2 cup/day) coming in thru the drain plug hole. I put a rubber plug on the inside, and it stayed bone dry. I removed both drain plug fittings and reseated them with 3M 5200 last week. I just put her back in Saturday, so we will see.

How hard were the drain plug fittings to get off? Did you happen to take any pics?

themikehyde
05-21-2012, 10:29 AM
How hard were the drain plug fittings to get off? Did you happen to take any pics?

I used a dental pick to clean the paint out of the 3 phillips head screws on each plug. The top screw on each on mine was nutted on the inside to the bonding wire. Luckily the nut was stuck tp the wire and I was able to unscrew it and it came off. I was doing this by myself. Once the screws were out, I just pryed the fittings out. I clealed the fittings up with a wire wheel, sanded the hull with a small DA sander. I applied the 5200 around then recsrewed them in. I pushed the 2 long threaded screws thru, then was able to use needle noce pliers to put the wires and nuts back on, then tightened them with a 1/4" ratchet/extension. I am hoping this will solve that problem.

scoflaw
05-21-2012, 12:25 PM
My bilge leak was coming in thru the bilge pump. While I attempted to tighten the hose clamps on the pumps, I saw that the snout was snapped off 1 of them.
New pump installed, I'll find out if a check valve is needed.

What is this transducer plug attached to my transducer for?

kaz911
05-21-2012, 01:10 PM
Slight correction....the 2009 270DA was re-badged as the 2010 and newer 280DA (not the 260DA). The 280DA was introduced in 2001 and the hull and cabin layouts were unchanged from 2001-2009. Upholstery and cabinetry were refined during that time period as tastes changed but the vessel is the same. The current 2010+ 280's are completely different boats than the 2001-2009 280DA.

I can't comment on ride characteristics because I haven't driven the new 280. I think the big difference is that the 01-09 models offered the option for twin engines. I could be wrong but I don't think the newer versions offer twins. Jason is correct, the new 310 most closely matches the dimensions of the 01-09 280 but the new 310 is way more spacious in the cabin....LOA and beam are about identical though.

thanks to Jason78 and Tonka -

yes - certainly seems like Sea Ray ate a foot or two - I compared the 270DA 2009 brochure with the 280DA 2010 brochure and it is hard to spot the difference.

So basically Sea Ray just shrunk the boats :-) and maybe did not "increase" the prices?

It leaves a kind of foul taste in your mouth though.

Bucit
05-21-2012, 01:15 PM
[QUOTE=kaz911;579830]
So basically Sea Ray just shrunk the boats :-) and maybe did not "increase" the prices?
/QUOTE]

You're kidding right? Of course they raised the prices. Older boats had bolt on swim platforms that were not included in the actual length but it was included in the overall length. Jump a few years and the swoim platform is now integrated with the hull )all one piece) so no they call it "X" feet. The actual user space became smaller and yes you do pay more for it. On top of that, the insurance is more and so is registration (if you have to register your boat).

Gunn
05-21-2012, 05:16 PM
I have finally removed the old CRT TV/VCR integrated unit and would like to make a replacement door for that cabinet location. Does anyone know if/where I can get some of the "cherry" veneer to glue to a new plywood door? Or do you know of a place that makes these doors?

I'm a hobbyist woodworker, so have no trouble creating the door. But have never seen this type of veneer available anywhere I have shopped before. And I think I'd be hard pressed to match it perfectly using cherry plywood. If I can't match it, I'll probably just make a black door to somewhat match everything else.

Gunn
05-21-2012, 05:23 PM
First season on my 280. Looking for ideas on which grill is best fit and mounting ideas. Considering round Magma using rod holder mount. Could place clamp on rod holder to the transom locker door. I would remove and store after use. Open to any ideas or pictures.

Here's one idea...for a rectangular Magma grill. I am also using a rod holder, but a flush mount one. I added one to each side of the transom locker door. Works great, and very versatile!

http://mulberryhall.us/boating/forum/GrillMount.jpg

Tom

Tonka Boater
05-21-2012, 08:53 PM
I have finally removed the old CRT TV/VCR integrated unit and would like to make a replacement door for that cabinet location. Does anyone know if/where I can get some of the "cherry" veneer to glue to a new plywood door? Or do you know of a place that makes these doors?

I'm a hobbyist woodworker, so have no trouble creating the door. But have never seen this type of veneer available anywhere I have shopped before. And I think I'd be hard pressed to match it perfectly using cherry plywood. If I can't match it, I'll probably just make a black door to somewhat match everything else.

Gary (Four Suns) had a post awhile back about his TV/entertainment center upgrade and I recall that he named a source for the cherry veneer. I thought I bookmarked the thread or the vendor site because I plan to do what you did --- however, I can't find the bookmarks. Send Gary a PM and ask where he got his then post it here for the rest of us. I don't have a need for the TV anymore with my iPad and that space could be some well needed storage.

Gunn
05-21-2012, 09:55 PM
Gary (Four Suns) had a post awhile back about his TV/entertainment center upgrade and I recall that he named a source for the cherry veneer. I thought I bookmarked the thread or the vendor site because I plan to do what you did --- however, I can't find the bookmarks. Send Gary a PM and ask where he got his then post it here for the rest of us. I don't have a need for the TV anymore with my iPad and that space could be some well needed storage.

Thanks, I did find a post dated to 2009 that mentioned that the material was Vitricore. It was discontinued sometime in the early 2000's, but not sure exactly when. The same company then created Nuvacor, which is still used today, and they have matches for the original material. Now if only I can only get my hands on just a couple of square feet...!

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/18135-Cherry-Wood-Veneer-Surface?p=215210#post215210

http://www.nuvacor.com/default2.html

themikehyde
05-21-2012, 10:35 PM
Has anyone wondered why both bilge pumps are at the front of the bilge? Seems like it takes almost 3" of water at the back to be able to pump anything out. I just dont like that water sitting back there so end up sponging it out.

scoflaw
05-22-2012, 07:14 AM
Has anyone wondered why both bilge pumps are at the front of the bilge? Seems like it takes almost 3" of water at the back to be able to pump anything out. I just dont like that water sitting back there so end up sponging it out.

X2 on that one. Salt water sloshing around isn't good for anything, especially that steel oil pan.

Talked to a Rule tech yesterday. He says an inline valve causes the pump to cavitate. He suggested a vented loop. With twin 5's there is no way to get back there to install. I might jam some rubber stoppers in the thru hulls while cruising.

If the pump was by the drain plug you wouldn't be able to service it.

Looking for other options. This water has to stop

jason78
05-22-2012, 07:25 AM
Talked to a Rule tech yesterday. He says an inline valve causes the pump to cavitate. He suggested a vented loop. With twin 5's there is no way to get back there to install. I might jam some rubber stoppers in the thru hulls while cruising.

Looking for other options. This water has to stop

There is already a loop in the bilge pump lines. You can see the loops right after they attach to the thru hull fittings. Apparently they do not work all that well. If you don't want to use inline valves, I believe Johnson Pump makes a decent bilge pump with an integrated check valve. Not sure why the Rule pumps let water back in like they do.

themikehyde
05-22-2012, 08:49 AM
I never liked my pump hoses running from the front of the bilge to the back, then over the stringer, under the starboard engine, then up. When i was repowering last august, i reran them from the pump, over the stringer, up between the genny and holding tank, then along the genny exhaust to the thru hulls. I tested the pumps by putting then in water and it seemed to flow ok. My next change will be to replace the corrugated tubing with something less restrictive.

scoflaw
05-22-2012, 09:08 AM
[QUOTE=jason78;580112]There is already a loop in the bilge pump lines. You can see the loops right after they attach to the thru hull fittings.

But it's not a vented loop with a duckbill. Rule pn #261.

Still no way to get in there to install. A duckbill is a valve, so why does that work and not an inline one?

kkalsch
05-22-2012, 09:46 AM
I know there has probably been a thread about this ...but I could not find it. The aluminum trim piece that goes around all the storage doors in the cockpit area are starting to bubble and the paint is flaking off. The surveyor said that was common with Sea Rays and he has personal repainted them by striping the old paint off then priming them with a zinc primer and then painting them with Rustoleum epoxy paint for appliances - has anyone done that?

PS. I changed both my shift cables this spring to the new style cable from Mercrusier and the Alpha Drive shifts almost as smooth as the Bravo!! Also a common mistake is that cable that runs from the transom to the shift plate has to be free and clear -no zip ties to something else or mounted to the transom -that cable moves

Henry Boyd
05-22-2012, 10:41 AM
I know there has probably been a thread about this ...but I could not find it. The aluminum trim piece that goes around all the storage doors in the cockpit area are starting to bubble and the paint is flaking off. The surveyor said that was common with Sea Rays and he has personal repainted them by striping the old paint off then priming them with a zinc primer and then painting them with Rustoleum epoxy paint for appliances - has anyone done that?

PS. I changed both my shift cables this spring to the new style cable from Mercrusier and the Alpha Drive shifts almost as smooth as the Bravo!! Also a common mistake is that cable that runs from the transom to the shift plate has to be free and clear -no zip ties to something else or mounted to the transom -that cable moves


The frames are powder coated aluminum. I stripped mine over the 2010/2011 winter. Once they are stripped they have to be sanded to remove the pitting (aluminum oxide). You really have to get that off, or the bubbling will come right back. Using zinc primer is not effective as a primer meant for aluminum. (Zinc Rich primer followed by an epoxy top coat is the classic marine coating system for steel). A primer meant for aluminum will provide better adhesion. I went to our local paint store and had them color match the old frame in a metal solvent based enamel. We are going into the second season and they are doing aok (including the one I stuck a big ole thumb print on).

The manufacturer of the frames is Teak Isle. They will sell you a replacement frame (or entire door) if you can get their part number (they also have an online catalog in pdf form so you can download and look up). I seem to recall the frames were like $ 55 each, but don't hold me to that. I have the contact info somewhere PM me if you want to follow that route, and I'll dig it out.

Henry

Nehalennia
05-22-2012, 11:31 AM
Mine are doing it too and I'm thinking of removing them, ecoating them. It's perfect for aluminum and I can then powdercoat them white.
I learned about this new process from the powdercoater I used for Pietro's engine vents I made for him.

Mfortune
05-22-2012, 11:35 AM
Does anyone have any thoughts as to why my gauge panel isn't working, but everything else works fine. I posted my question, but haven't heard a peep from this talkative group. Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?
We are going on a 60 mile trip on Friday and I'd really like to get this resolved ASAP.

scoflaw
05-22-2012, 11:50 AM
Does anyone have any thoughts as to why my gauge panel isn't working, but everything else works fine. I posted my question, but haven't heard a peep from this talkative group. Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?
We are going on a 60 mile trip on Friday and I'd really like to get this resolved ASAP.

Must not be a common problem. Time to bust out the volt meter and the wireing diagram

Nehalennia
05-22-2012, 11:56 AM
Does anyone have any thoughts as to why my gauge panel isn't working, but everything else works fine. I posted my question, but haven't heard a peep from this talkative group. Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?
We are going on a 60 mile trip on Friday and I'd really like to get this resolved ASAP.

This is a fast moving thread and the issue you're having is not specific to the 280DA. I think if you post the info in a new thread you can get a ton of replies to help you get back in action.

scoflaw
05-22-2012, 12:12 PM
Does anyone have any thoughts as to why my gauge panel isn't working, but everything else works fine. I posted my question, but haven't heard a peep from this talkative group. Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?
We are going on a 60 mile trip on Friday and I'd really like to get this resolved ASAP.

Looks like that harness plugs in at the engines. Anybody been messin around back there or under the dash? Sounds like it got disconnected. Push,pull and wiggle those connections

Bucit
05-22-2012, 12:17 PM
Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?


Since your new to the site (and your boat) you will find countless hours of good information that will save you thousands of dollars over time. The annual due of $20 or more is well worth it. You won't get faster repsonses but it does keep the site alive!

Mfortune
05-22-2012, 07:48 PM
Thanks guys. I'll check the connections. It is just a bit weird because the only thing that happened between the night when we set anchor and leaving in the morning was that 2 adults, 3 children, and 1 jack russel actually had a peaceful nights sleep. No one even opened the engine hatch or the access panel below the dash. Oh well, it is a boat and things happen.
Bucit, I was just kidding about the annual dues = quick response. I thought it would at least stir up some response, which it did. Also, I'm not sure why you assumed I'm new to the boat or the site, I've had the boat for 4 years and been on this site since March of 2009 (you can see each persons join date in the top right of each post). Not trying to bust your chops, it is just that assumptions drive me NUTS!! You are right though, the site if full of great information and can save thousands of $$$ but more importantly to me hours and hours and hours.

kkalsch
05-24-2012, 08:48 AM
The frames are powder coated aluminum. I stripped mine over the 2010/2011 winter. Once they are stripped they have to be sanded to remove the pitting (aluminum oxide). You really have to get that off, or the bubbling will come right back. Using zinc primer is not effective as a primer meant for aluminum. (Zinc Rich primer followed by an epoxy top coat is the classic marine coating system for steel). A primer meant for aluminum will provide better adhesion. I went to our local paint store and had them color match the old frame in a metal solvent based enamel. We are going into the second season and they are doing aok (including the one I stuck a big ole thumb print on).

The manufacturer of the frames is Teak Isle. They will sell you a replacement frame (or entire door) if you can get their part number (they also have an online catalog in pdf form so you can download and look up). I seem to recall the frames were like $ 55 each, but don't hold me to that. I have the contact info somewhere PM me if you want to follow that route, and I'll dig it out.

Henry

Thanks Henry,
I painted one last night and I used the zinc rich primer and the epoxy appliance paint-it came out ok -the epoxy paint dries real slow -so you got a thumb print and I got a few flies......

Gunn
05-24-2012, 07:50 PM
Does anyone know if there is an adjustment for the latch on the refrigerator? As you can see from the photo I took, the refrigerator does not completely latch; the metal pin in the door doesn't fit in the hole in the frame. We had it pop open a couple times last year in rough seas. I couldn't find any adjustment on the door, or the latch...but there has to be something I'm overlooking?


So I finally fixed the refrigerator door alignment issue. I removed the 4 phillips head screws that hold the refrigerator unit in the cabinet and pulled it out. As can be seen in the photo below there are a pair of 5/16" screws that are used to hold the latch catch assembly in place. There is some adjustment there. I loosened them up, and closed the door, aligning the pin in the catch. Tightened them back up and now my door won't fly open when the seas get rough!

http://www.mulberryhall.us/boating/forum/refrigerator.jpg

Tom

Gunn
05-24-2012, 08:02 PM
I have finally removed the old CRT TV/VCR integrated unit and would like to make a replacement door for that cabinet location. Does anyone know if/where I can get some of the "cherry" veneer to glue to a new plywood door? Or do you know of a place that makes these doors?


So the original product was called Vitricore. They changed the name several years ago to Nuvacor, essentially the same thing. I received an email from them that said:


"The minimum order is for one sheet which is 48” x 100” x .020. The sheet costs $376.00 + approx.. $25.00 for FedEx Ground charges to ship it to you. I say approx.. because it depends where we will be shipping to. If you’re on the West Coast it could be a little bit more."

:wow:. It's nice they'll sell to anyone direct, but needless to say for a door that needs less than two square feet of material, I won't be purchasing an entire sheet! That is unless someone else wants to and can let me purchase just a couple feet!

Tom

pfd109
05-25-2012, 09:47 AM
Thanks for this info. This sounds exactly what my issue may be with one of my drives. It won't engage as easily as the other and will want to rattle around until I give it a bit more lever to get it to engage. I'll check and adjust the cable, but this clutch may be worn on mine also.

Tom

I had the exact same issue last year with my port side, it would even stall on occasion. I however let it go and the gearing in that outdrive ended up granading and destroying the entire drive. Moral of the $5000 story: get it fixed sooner than later.

wvsundancer
05-25-2012, 10:53 AM
Has anyone had issues with their transom door not closing correctly? My door is out of alignment and on the port side the metal part that the gas shock attaches to is gouging a place in the fiberglass. Can someone walk me thru the process of correcting this issue?

kkalsch
05-26-2012, 03:09 PM
I went to check the pump under the step and trash can to make sure it was working before running the AC and when I stuck my head in there I smelled gas! The tank is full and the bilge does not smell of gas and there's' no visible sign of gas under the step area... you can not smell the gas in the cabin- has anyone else had this problem -any suggestions on how to fix -

Tonka Boater
05-26-2012, 03:47 PM
I went to check the pump under the step and trash can to make sure it was working before running the AC and when I stuck my head in there I smelled gas! The tank is full and the bilge does not smell of gas and there's' no visible sign of gas under the step area... you can not smell the gas in the cabin- has anyone else had this problem -any suggestions on how to fix -

Never had that problem but it sounds like it could be dangerous. I check that particular sump almost daily when I empty the trash and I have never even smelled a hint of gas. Do you smell any gas when you crawl into the mid-cabin berth? You should chase down the source to make sure it's not a leak because those vapors could ignite.

kkalsch
05-26-2012, 03:55 PM
I can not smell gas in the mid cabin berth-I am guessing after looking at the parts manual the sender could be leaking when the is tanks full. I wonder if you can access the tank from the mid cabin berth?

scoflaw
05-26-2012, 05:45 PM
Maybe this has been discussed, and someone can direct to the thread.
I'm looking for the best way to get some news on the TV when I'm out in open water

Woody
05-27-2012, 11:50 AM
I can not smell gas in the mid cabin berth-I am guessing after looking at the parts manual the sender could be leaking when the is tanks full. I wonder if you can access the tank from the mid cabin berth?Mine has an access hole to the sender under the pads in the mid berth.

kkalsch
05-27-2012, 04:42 PM
Mine has an access hole to the sender under the pads in the mid berth.

Thanks Woody....found it this morning and yes the screws were lose on the sender unit.....tighten them up and the gas smell is gone !! finally caught a break - but I would of never of known unless I stuck my head in there -something to check...........

Henry Boyd
05-28-2012, 10:02 AM
So the original product was called Vitricore. They changed the name several years ago to Nuvacor, essentially the same thing. I received an email from them that said:



:wow:. It's nice they'll sell to anyone direct, but needless to say for a door that needs less than two square feet of material, I won't be purchasing an entire sheet! That is unless someone else wants to and can let me purchase just a couple feet!

Tom


I seem to remember a csr member who was a dealer for this stuff. I believe the company name was restoration marine. I think they sell partial panels of the laminate.

Henry

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HDation

Gunn
05-28-2012, 10:31 AM
Henry, thanks for that info. That rings a bell, I'm look them up.

So my shakedown cruise was very eventful yesterday. End result is that now my port engine won't start (see thread here: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/51755-Double-whammy-Vapor-lock-AND-IAC-issue?p=581598#post581598). Anyway, I have a question that someone here will easily know. When you push the engine switch to the ON position, there is a 3-4 second noise like a whine from the engine. I wait for it to quit before pushing to the START position. I don't know what that is. Like...a fuel pump priming...? I'm thinking whatever this is, maybe it is my issue because there is a noticeable difference between the two engines. The one that won't start has a much lower sounding tone to it.

Thanks, Tom

Bucit
05-29-2012, 10:23 AM
That noise is coming from the fule pump. It stays on for 3-4 seconds as you've noticed. I do the same as you, push the start buttons one click, let it prime and them start the motors.

kkalsch
05-29-2012, 03:24 PM
Has anyone replaced there remote controller for there search light? Mine works sometimes

Half Off
05-29-2012, 03:28 PM
Thanks Woody....found it this morning and yes the screws were lose on the sender unit.....tighten them up and the gas smell is gone !! finally caught a break - but I would of never of known unless I stuck my head in there -something to check...........

First thing I will do when I get to the boat next time. Thanks for the heads up.

Gunn
05-29-2012, 05:05 PM
That noise is coming from the fule pump. It stays on for 3-4 seconds as you've noticed. I do the same as you, push the start buttons one click, let it prime and them start the motors.

Thanks, that's what I thought. So...has anyone changed one of these on our 280's, or even had one replaced ? Looks like the Cool Fuel II unit needs to be replaced as an assembly. It is under the port front side of the engine. Looks doable, but difficult!

kkalsch
05-29-2012, 06:23 PM
Thanks, that's what I thought. So...has anyone changed one of these on our 280's, or even had one replaced ? Looks like the Cool Fuel II unit needs to be replaced as an assembly. It is under the port front side of the engine. Looks doable, but difficult!

The port side engine had the pump assembly changed last year just before I bought the boat -I believe there is an updated kit /Did you squirt some fuel down the intake to see if it would fire up?

scootdogg
05-29-2012, 07:58 PM
so i am quite positive this has been covered... but the search feature on here is not so great.... has anyone done anything about the helm seat being so low? I have to fold a throw cushion and place it behind the bolster to operate the boat safely. i am certainly not short at 5'11 but damn... you must have to be a giant to use the seat in the position with no bolster... help?

aquaaddiction
05-29-2012, 08:14 PM
Has anyone replaced there remote controller for there search light? Mine works sometimes

What searchlight do you have, the ACR? Whats the fault? very rarly does the control panel fail, its normally a fault in the searchlight as it is exposed to the elements and that thus corrodes.

Anthony

Sent from my GT-I9000T using Tapatalk 2

bajturner
05-29-2012, 08:24 PM
...has anyone done anything about the helm seat being so low?

The height is adjustable. Loosen the knob, pull the spring-loaded pin out, and heave-ho. More easily done with two people.

scootdogg
05-29-2012, 08:27 PM
The height is adjustable. Loosen the knob, pull the spring-loaded pin out, and heave-ho. More easily done with two people.

now i feel stupid.... lol

bajturner
05-29-2012, 08:32 PM
now i feel stupid.... lol

Don't...it took me a full season to figure out how to adjust it! Oh, and don't unscrew the knob too far or the nut on the inside will come off and fall to the bottom of the post. I am just guessing about that of course...I didn't make that mistake. ;)

themikehyde
05-29-2012, 09:37 PM
Anchor line replacement. Sorry if this has been covered before but my search did not help. While retrieving the anchor this weekend, the line came in fine but when it got to the space to the chain, it would slip. It appears to be a little worn, but not real bad. Is that indicating its time to replace? If so, does anyone have any recommendations? Maybe a west marine part number?
thanks
mike

JimT
05-30-2012, 06:09 AM
Anchor line replacement. Sorry if this has been covered before but my search did not help. While retrieving the anchor this weekend, the line came in fine but when it got to the space to the chain, it would slip. It appears to be a little worn, but not real bad. Is that indicating its time to replace? If so, does anyone have any recommendations? Maybe a west marine part number?
thanks
mike

There is a spring in the tension finger on the side of the windlass that wears out. Replace that and it should solve your problem. In the short term put some pressure on the finger with your foot while raising the anchor and it will prevent the rode from slipping.

Gunn
05-30-2012, 07:10 AM
The port side engine had the pump assembly changed last year just before I bought the boat -I believe there is an updated kit /Did you squirt some fuel down the intake to see if it would fire up?

Yes, and that will make it fire. So definate fuel issue. Pump doesn't sound right when priming too.

themikehyde
05-30-2012, 11:43 AM
@Jim, I had actually tried that but then it kind of kinked up where it goes into the locker. I ended up feeding a little chain into the locker, and then it worked ok.

Does anyone have the contact info or part number for the tension finger?
Thanks,
Mike

wvsundancer
05-30-2012, 12:42 PM
seat height adjustment.. now I also feel stupid.. rope chain slippage.. now I really feel stupid.. all this time I have reaching down and pulling on the chain when it starts to slip.. LOL How hard is it to change the spring thing ???

280 Gator
05-30-2012, 03:25 PM
Ive been reading as much as i can in this thread. Great stuff. I just bought a 2008 280 Sundancer. Pretty loaded as far as i can tell, twin 4.3 BIII, gen, A/C, direct TV etc. Next week i have my "training" and final checkout. Wondering about any advice from the experts here on maybe things to be shown how to operate or things to look for that i might not think of. Its my opportunity to be shown things that might be tuff to figure out on my own.
Long time with ski boats ( Master craft) and selling my 220 overnighter, so this is a big jump.

themikehyde
05-30-2012, 03:40 PM
Congrats Gator!
I have had my 280 for almost 4 years and I am still learning about it. Silly little things like the generator zinc, fresh water filter, keep the sump pump clean, torque the gimbal bolts, hidden windlass fuses and breakers, stinky filter, locations of GFCI's...

The list keeps growing and growing.

I see you are in VA, where do you plan on docking it?

280 Gator
05-30-2012, 03:52 PM
I have a lift in Newport News on the James. Will start with the Chesapeake Bay and learn from there. I think ill just have to jump into it , read this site, and ask a lot of questions!!

Gunn
05-30-2012, 09:40 PM
@Jim, I had actually tried that but then it kind of kinked up where it goes into the locker. I ended up feeding a little chain into the locker, and then it worked ok.

Does anyone have the contact info or part number for the tension finger?
Thanks,
Mike

Mike, I may be able to help you there as just tonight I was reading the windlass manual and Sea Ray wiring diagram for my boat, as my damn windlass quit working on me this past weekend (that trip just keeps getting better and better doesn't it?!). I get just a clicking noise from the helm or foot switches, but nada.

If you have the Lofrans Marlin (low profile) windlass as I do, the item # is 891a "Finger", or 891b "Chromed bronze finger". email is info@lofrans.it . Website is http://www.lofrans.it . That's all that's listed in the manual...

themikehyde
05-30-2012, 09:45 PM
Gunn, did you check the hidden breaker ahead of the batteries in the bilge, and the fuse in the anchor locker? I had that problem at gilligans last year!

Henry Boyd
05-31-2012, 06:15 AM
Mike, I may be able to help you there as just tonight I was reading the windlass manual and Sea Ray wiring diagram for my boat, as my damn windlass quit working on me this past weekend (that trip just keeps getting better and better doesn't it?!). I get just a clicking noise from the helm or foot switches, but nada.

If you have the Lofrans Marlin (low profile) windlass as I do, the item # is 891a "Finger", or 891b "Chromed bronze finger". email is info@lofrans.it . Website is http://www.lofrans.it . That's all that's listed in the manual...


imtra (imtra.com) is the US distributor of Lofrans. Call them they have an excellent CS department.

Henry

JimFromMD
05-31-2012, 07:17 AM
Gunn, did you check the hidden breaker ahead of the batteries in the bilge, and the fuse in the anchor locker? I had that problem at gilligans last year!

+1 on the hidden breaker/relay in the bilge. That one had me stumped for about 4 days last year until someone mentioned it here.

Bucit
05-31-2012, 09:34 AM
+1 on the hidden breaker/relay in the bilge. That one had me stumped for about 4 days last year until someone mentioned it here.

+2 I had the same problem last year and it was bith the fuse on the anchor locker and the high amp breaker which is located forward of the batteries. I haven't had the problem since. Thank god for CSR.

Gunn
05-31-2012, 08:37 PM
+2 I had the same problem last year and it was bith the fuse on the anchor locker and the high amp breaker which is located forward of the batteries. I haven't had the problem since. Thank god for CSR.

Ok, so I poked around the boat tonight investigating this windlass issue (saving the fuel pump frustration for the weekend). I found the main 40amp breaker in the bilge/ER, and solenoid:

http://www.mulberryhall.us/boating/forum/windlass/Windlass(1).jpg

What's the blue wire there for? I think it goes to that relay. Doesn't look OEM to me...

http://www.mulberryhall.us/boating/forum/windlass/Windlass(5).jpg

Now if this 40amp breaker is tripped, how would you know? Is it that little flat thin plastic piece to the lower-left of center? If so, I found that slightly hanging down. Pushed it back up. But no change when I tried to operate the windlass.

Near that solenoid in the first photo, there is a 5amp inline mini-blade fuse in a holder on a small wire going to the right-side lug. That fuse was -not- blown.

So I moved to the bow. I could find no fuses there...the control box is mounted on the panel opposite the V-berth area, with a bunch of wires on it.

http://www.mulberryhall.us/boating/forum/windlass/Windlass(3).jpg

The motor doesn't look that good, rusty...

http://www.mulberryhall.us/boating/forum/windlass/Windlass(4).jpg

I need to find a wiring diagram and dig out the voltmeter and begin to trace the issue. The breaker in the ER EIM is not popped, nor is the one in the EIM by the helm. Am I overlooking another fuse somewhere that you guys are mentioning in the anchor locker? Anyone have a wiring diagram?

Thanks,

Tom

themikehyde
05-31-2012, 09:15 PM
Gunn, there is a fuse up under there, screwed to the control box. Definitely need a mirror. Somone on here had a good pic of it. I will see if I can find it.

themikehyde
05-31-2012, 09:20 PM
Gunn, it's post 1859 on page 186. At least your breaker is labeled. Mine is not. I was going to attach a label for future reference.

themikehyde
05-31-2012, 09:30 PM
There is a schematic on page 56 of the 280 supplemental manual. In case you don't have one, click http://www.ourcayoloco.com/docs/280%20Supplement.pdf

kkalsch
06-01-2012, 07:20 AM
In hull transducer....has anyone installed one ?? does it work well and what location did you mount it. I have broken not 1 but 2 transducer's off the back of the transom because the Admiral makes me back up close too shore so she does get her bathing suit wet! - any suggestion would be great

themikehyde
06-01-2012, 07:32 AM
I just replaced mine. Original depthfinder was intermittent, so I got an "in-hull." Only place it picked up good in the bag of water was between the Sanitation discharge and the strainer for the jenny. I ordered a thru hull from the manufacturer, and replaced the factory one. Works much better but not 100%. Mine is inder the starboard engine. Of course the factory one was 1 1/2" hole and the new one was 2".

How on earth can a tranducer way up under there get hit? Just curious.

kkalsch
06-01-2012, 07:45 AM
How on earth can a transducer way up under there get hit? Just curious.

Its easy...the Transducer is hanging off the back of the transom -when we pull up to the island I back the boat in letting the windless anchor in the front out as I go -when I get close enough that the props hit the sand -I stop raise the lower units grab my second anchor jump off the swim platform and secure the boat to the beach -now I get the Admiral off and during that time it never fail's some body has to cruise along close to shore to make a wave and ......the back end of the boat hits the sand and off goes the transducer. Once the Admiral and supplies are off the boat I then let the windless anchor pull the boat out anther 5 feet so it does not hit the bottom during our stay -

themikehyde
06-01-2012, 07:48 AM
Ok, just let me know if you want a pic of where it is installed.

kkalsch
06-01-2012, 07:55 AM
That would be great!!-Just to clarify:.... the transducer I am talking about was an add on by the PO its like a puck that hangs out side the transum-the Thru Hull that came stock with the boat works fine

themikehyde
06-01-2012, 08:14 AM
The factory thru-hull is the one I replaced. Unless you get a thru-hull for your other depth-finder and drill another hole, I am not sure what to say. If it is a transom mount, it should be on a kick-up bracket that will allow it to pop-up when it gets hit?

Gunn
06-01-2012, 12:00 PM
Gunn, it's post 1859 on page 186. At least your breaker is labeled. Mine is not. I was going to attach a label for future reference.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/10064-Official-280-Sundancer-Thread?p=483455#post483455
Thanks Mike! That picture is great to see...but I swear that fuse holder in not in there. I thought I looked everywhere with my eyes and my camera phone when my eyes couldn't see, but...it has to be. I'll look better tonight.


There is a schematic on page 56 of the 280 supplemental manual. In case you don't have one, click http://www.ourcayoloco.com/docs/280%20Supplement.pdf

Page 66! Very helpful again! Though the schematic shows I should have a blue and green wire going to the foot switches and all I see are red wires going to each of the two terminals on both foot switches...at least it shows me connection points.

Thanks,

Tom

Bucit
06-01-2012, 12:10 PM
The fuse is in there. I had to look for it as well but it's in there. It takes I believe a 5amp flat style fuse.

themikehyde
06-01-2012, 09:16 PM
Buc, Looking at that thread again, is that fuse only for the foot switches up front? If so, I don't think that will fix Tom's problem.

Gunn
06-01-2012, 09:55 PM
Buc, Looking at that thread again, is that fuse only for the foot switches up front? If so, I don't think that will fix Tom's problem.

Good point. According to that wiring diagram, the fuse is inline with the wire going to the foot switches. But hey, worth a check. I need to check motor terminals and the ground wire on the control box too for corrosion, and rust.

Tom

Gunn
06-02-2012, 05:27 PM
Update on the windlass. Measured voltage at the two motor terminals (both red wires) . Activated the down foot switch and see -12volts. Activate the up foot switch and see +12volts. So...motor seized up? To remove just the motor, is it just the two nuts in the rear of the unit?

BTW, I have NO fuse going to foot switches in anchor locker!!

Tom

saopm
06-02-2012, 10:14 PM
Update on the windlass. Measured voltage at the two motor terminals (both red wires) . Activated the down foot switch and see -12volts. Activate the up foot switch and see +12volts. So...motor seized up? To remove just the motor, is it just the two nuts in the rear of the unit?

BTW, I have NO fuse going to foot switches in anchor locker!!

Tom

Do you have the hand crank handle that fits into the top of the windless? Maybe you can give it a few turns before you remove the motor.

Gunn
06-03-2012, 08:00 AM
Yes, that is what I had to use to release the anchor and let it free spool when we needed to anchor last weekend. So I've used that, but no luck.

Henry Boyd
06-03-2012, 09:45 AM
Do you have the hand crank handle that fits into the top of the windless? Maybe you can give it a few turns before you remove the motor.

On the Lofrans windlass the crank handle only releases/tightens the clutch on the gypsie.

Removing the motor is easy, it's putting it back that the pita. (been there). I'd really check everything out first before pulling the motor.


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Half Off
06-03-2012, 05:58 PM
Burls, I have an '04 280 for sale. Twin 4.3's no genny.It is located at Dubuque, Ia. PM me if you would like more info.

Well, after 3 great weekends at the boat, we decided to take it off the market. We have owned a boat of one kind or another for 23 years and decided its way to soon to give it up! It's going to be a great summer!

DMarcel
06-03-2012, 06:43 PM
I'm looking to name my boat and am having a hard time deciding where to put the lettering. I haven't seen too many 2003 280DA lettered up. Are there any pictures out here?

Tonka Boater
06-03-2012, 09:02 PM
I'm looking to name my boat and am having a hard time deciding where to put the lettering. I haven't seen too many 2003 280DA lettered up. Are there any pictures out here?

The '01-'09 280's are all the same. You can see in my signature pic where I put mine.

elevy
06-03-2012, 09:11 PM
I'm looking to name my boat and am having a hard time deciding where to put the lettering. I haven't seen too many 2003 280DA lettered up. Are there any pictures out here?
I used the locker hatch and the space below.

Gunn
06-03-2012, 09:24 PM
On the Lofrans windlass the crank handle only releases/tightens the clutch on the gypsie.

Removing the motor is easy, it's putting it back that the pita. (been there). I'd really check everything out first before pulling the motor.

Thanks Henry. So is it the two screws in the rear of the motor to remove it? Curious.

BUT, I fixed it! Well, it's working again anyway, for how long I don't know. After noticing there was voltage at the motor, it had to be the motor. I remember reading a post somewhere on this forum from Hampton where he said he whacked the terminals with a hammer. So I took my ball peen hammer and hit them. Then I hit the motor a couple times too. Tried the foot switches, and...it worked! Tried the helm switches and it too was all good now.

So now I need to add a hammer to my toolkit. :smt001. But it is the motor that is having the issue in my case. So I may have to replace or rebuild it at some point...

Gunn
06-03-2012, 09:34 PM
I'm looking to name my boat and am having a hard time deciding where to put the lettering. I haven't seen too many 2003 280DA lettered up. Are there any pictures out here?

Here's my 2003. Similar layout to Tonka's...

http://www.mulberryhall.us/boating/forum/BoatName.jpg

Tom

jason78
06-03-2012, 10:52 PM
I'm looking to name my boat and am having a hard time deciding where to put the lettering. I haven't seen too many 2003 280DA lettered up. Are there any pictures out here?

Some good examples have been posted. Mine is similiar to them. All I can say is- If your boat is USCG Documented, make sure you follow the USCG marking and sizing guidelines found here. If not exact, at least close. http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/nvdc/nvdcfaq.asp#11

If you are state registered, of course it does not matter what or how you do it.