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Stray Cat
04-16-2009, 08:15 PM
UWE - Do you know any German cuss words? :grin:

Uwe
04-17-2009, 12:44 AM
UWE - Do you know any German cuss words? :grin:

A lot . And you will remember all of them if those things happen. :grin: Believe me

charlieft
04-21-2009, 09:12 PM
It's a done deal ... the surveyer found no major problems so we now own a 2003 300 Sundancer. We just have to do a general cleanup, get the drives serviced and replace one of the exhaust bellows, prime the AC water pump, and take care of a fuel issue with the generator.
On the down side ... we have to sell Froggy ... asking $42,500 ... only 90 hours listed with Onset Bay Marina.

Bridog
04-21-2009, 10:43 PM
Congratulations Charlie!

Bel_Mar_Pointe
04-22-2009, 12:11 AM
Congrats Charlie! The 300 is a great boat.

Only 90 hours on your 2004?

charlieft
04-22-2009, 11:50 AM
Congrats Charlie! The 300 is a great boat.

Only 90 hours on your 2004?

Thanks, we're looking forward to it. It handled great during the sea trial.

Right ... 90 hours on our 260DA... we didn't get out much last year. I bought it 2 years ago with 18 hours on it. It's in great shape.

-Charlie

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-06-2009, 07:36 PM
Another fun mod, and question......

I'm getting ready to install 2 pairs of JL Audio 770's in the arch :thumbsup:. Last year I installed a JL amp in the V-berth to accomodate the future speakers. The ventilation is good where the amp is but since I will be running new speaker wire anyway, I was thinking about other possible amp locations.

Anyone installed or have a good amp installation location between the V-berth and the electronics cabinet? Is there space behind the crescent couch? I could just leave it where it's at but wanted to check with you guys before finalizing the install. Only downfall to the current location is cable length and I probably have to pull the unit to make wiring connections (odd shaped space).

I'll also be adding an Aux plug in the cockpit. Any pros or cons as to location?

Thanks.........

Uwe
06-25-2009, 03:39 PM
Anybody has/had problem with the water heater (leaking)?
On my 300 I need to replace it. And dam I need to remove thee engine exhaust before:smt013

Stray Cat
06-25-2009, 11:08 PM
Uwe - So far mine is dry. But you're right about tearing the manifold riser off to get it out of there....can you tell where the leak is coming from?

Uwe
06-26-2009, 12:39 AM
Uwe ....can you tell where the leak is coming from?


Thats exactly the thing, even if you want to look were the leak is, you need to remove the cover of the heater. To remove the cover you need to remove the manifold riser. So what I did is, to exclude all other thinks that could leak. Left is the heater. I haven't removed the heater yet. Will keep you updated.

jeffk
02-10-2010, 10:07 PM
Well, just weeks before we take delivery of a 2006 300, looking forward to it. Sea Trial Monday!!

http://www.qualityboatsales.com/new_vehicle_detail.asp?sid=03230249X2K10K2010J9I06 I15JPMQ3268R0&veh=23092&pov=1499350

JeffMendenhall
02-11-2010, 06:37 AM
One of my forward window porthole covers on the outside has a chunk missing out of it. I have found replacements on Ebay, but have a question. Do these pop off, or are they screwed on some how. Cannot get to the boat to look at it due to storm. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Jeff

Stray Cat
02-11-2010, 06:17 PM
jeffk: Good luck with the seatrial! That is one heck of a good price if it all checks out ok. Did you get a survey?

skolbe
02-11-2010, 06:26 PM
Well, just weeks before we take delivery of a 2006 300, looking forward to it. Sea Trial Monday!!

http://www.qualityboatsales.com/new_vehicle_detail.asp?sid=03230249X2K10K2010J9I06 I15JPMQ3268R0&veh=23092&pov=1499350

Nice boat - congrats - looks like a great price.

Bridog
02-11-2010, 06:51 PM
Congratulations! Looks like you got a steal. The 300DA is a beauty. Good luck.

jeffk
02-11-2010, 08:18 PM
Thanks All, Survey then Sea Trial all in one!!

And able to work a trade!!

Stray Cat
02-12-2010, 09:04 AM
Jeff - make sure they show you where the super secret starboard stowage in the mid cabin is.....if they can find it.

jeffk
02-12-2010, 09:49 AM
Jeff,

Can I get a hint in advance?

Looks like you have the same boat, except for the motors?

Bridog
02-12-2010, 11:34 AM
Oh yes. The secret storage compartment. I found my canvas boots and port screens in there.

Stray Cat
02-12-2010, 01:00 PM
Jeff,

Can I get a hint in advance?

Looks like you have the same boat, except for the motors?

What do you think Brian? Should we tell him? Who knows what he might find in there!

Bridog
02-12-2010, 11:51 PM
Nah. The fun is in the search. :)

jeffk
02-13-2010, 08:43 AM
How about a little hint :)

Is it long and narrow, and flips up? I may have alraedy found it.

Stray Cat
02-13-2010, 09:46 AM
Okay, twist my arm...it flips down, starboard side....wait, maybe if flips up on the port side.... :grin:

Bottom Line
02-13-2010, 11:25 AM
Come on guys...let him search for a month or two:lol::lol:

Berras
03-02-2010, 05:00 AM
Hi, I have a 2002 300 Sundancer and Im loocking for teak to put on the swim platform. Anybody that can recommend any company that sells complete "kit" ready to be mounted?

willycedar
03-03-2010, 04:56 PM
I am very close to buying 2005 300da. It has low hours and looks in good condition. Wondering what any knows about the 2005 300da (problems,etc) and if this would be a good family boat (wife & 2 kids)
Thanks

Bridog
03-03-2010, 06:33 PM
I am very close to buying 2005 300da. It has low hours and looks in good condition. Wondering what any knows about the 2005 300da (problems,etc) and if this would be a good family boat (wife & 2 kids)
Thanks
I have a 2006 which is the same as a 2005. I love the boat and the layout. Quick boat and you can still do the "sport boat" type stuff like skiing and tubing while enjoying the big cabin for overnights. Problems I've had??? Bellows needed replacing early (Marine Max said it was faulty clamps) and the round skylights needed to be resealed. Both covered under warranty. Hopefully you will be a 300DA owner soon.:smt038

Stray Cat
03-05-2010, 08:40 AM
Hi, I have a 2002 300 Sundancer and Im loocking for teak to put on the swim platform. Anybody that can recommend any company that sells complete "kit" ready to be mounted?

I'm not aware of a teak kit that would be specific for the 300 swim platform, however, there have been a few threads on CSR that discuss this, try searching the board. I think CSR has an advertiser for teak products.


I am very close to buying 2005 300da. It has low hours and looks in good condition. Wondering what any knows about the 2005 300da (problems,etc) and if this would be a good family boat (wife & 2 kids)
Thanks

Does the boat you are looking at have a generator? I had an issue with my EIM (located on the bulkhead in the engine room) being located to close to the generator muffler. The EIM would get too hot from the muffler and cause abnormal switch pad functions.

Sea Ray 300
03-07-2010, 05:27 PM
My generator is down right now.

Needs a fuel pump, which I'll replace in the spring.

FamilyTime
03-09-2010, 02:18 AM
After letting her cool off for a few months, I just went out to the boat this past weekend to start it up. I noticed that I could not open the hatch...or turn on any other switches on my port helm control panel (hatch / FWD ACC / Etc). I look under the wheel and saw a breaker popped for the panel, which I reset, and the panel was working again. When I tried to use my starboard panel ( nav lights/anchor/ etc) it wouldn't work either. I double checked all of the CBs at the helm and the engine room CB box and all were good. Now here's the kicker, when I looked at the SR owners manual it says the helm breaker box is supposed to correspond to the starboard panel and the engine room box to the port. As I said, the breaker reset at the helm solved the hatch problem on the port panel. Does anyone know if these panels go bad frequently or if the CB boxes have issues? We've had a couple Nor'Easters and they might have gotten a little damp. Anyone have any good troubleshooting techniques? On a happy note, it was great to get back on the water!

Stray Cat
03-09-2010, 07:51 AM
I can speak from experience the EIM in the bilge will cause irratic functions of the starboard panel, and the hatch lift button if it reaches 130 deg. from the generator muffler. Otherwise I have not heard of a deffective EIM. The switch pads, however, have been known on occasion to loose a function(s), but not certain how to trouble shoot those if they are completely dead.

MeEscape
03-10-2010, 07:23 PM
Does the boat you are looking at have a generator? I had an issue with my EIM (located on the bulkhead in the engine room) being located to close to the generator muffler. The EIM would get too hot from the muffler and cause abnormal switch pad functions.[/QUOTE]

I had the same problem with the EIM in my 300. It is on a "unpublished" recall, the dealer was unaware of the recall but after a call to Sea Ray relocated the EIM for no charge.

that was the good news. The bad news is that the EIM was relocated behind the electrical panel behind the door on the port side of the aft cockpit. Now to check a circut breaker I have to unscrew the whole panel.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
03-11-2010, 04:01 PM
I am very close to buying 2005 300da. It has low hours and looks in good condition. Wondering what any knows about the 2005 300da (problems,etc) and if this would be a good family boat (wife & 2 kids)
Thanks

Good boat size for the four of you IMO. I had an intermittent rear EIM issue a couple years back that really kicked my butt. It turned out to be a bad connector pin located in the starboard cabling raceway.....a real diagnostic nightmare as it worked part of the time. Besides that, no real show stoppers, just the typical minor fixes here and there. Good luck!

willycedar
03-13-2010, 07:34 AM
Thanks for the info Bel Mar,

We did buy the 2005 300 DA . It has 67 hours and looks in excellant shape. We splash april 26. Thanks again.
This is a GREAT web sight !

Bel_Mar_Pointe
03-13-2010, 09:49 AM
Congrats on the new boat! 67 hours is very low.....has it been sitting for a couple years? Were you able to give it a sea trial?

Rxflyer
03-17-2010, 11:23 PM
Congrats on the new boat ! We bought ours last year with less time than that on it. Lucky find. We had all the pump impellers replaced immediately - just for peace of mind. Other than an IAC replacement, it's been very reliable. Wish I were back up in the Great Lakes, now ! (well, in Summer, anyway...) Enjoy !

FamilyTime
03-19-2010, 09:05 PM
I did find the problem by using a multi-meter on the harness that attaches to the switch panel. The harness had power, so I removed the switch pad to find it was charred inside. Now I need a new switch pad, but Sea Ray dealer says it's no longer available through sea ray. Anyone with some ideas???

willycedar
03-21-2010, 03:08 PM
We ran it late last fall on lake Charlevoix. Although, not a comprehenive survey, everything checked out. It ran nice! The couple that owned it since new lived right on the lake but did not use much. It does need new batteries (3) no gen. Wondering if anyone has had experience with Optima Blue Top marine batts. They are 31's AGM.
Are they okay or stay away? If so what are good choices for 2005 300da no genny?

FamilyTime
03-23-2010, 09:21 PM
Just wanted to give some feedback as to my resolution. I emailed sea ray late Friday night after the dealer told me the part was no longer available. Monday morning I got a call from a sea ray rep telling me they replaced the panel with a new model, although cosmetically identical, because of issues with the older version shorting out. He gave me the new part number and said they were in stock. I called a different local dealer and they ordered the part...$365.00 and it should be here in 4 days.

Stray Cat
03-24-2010, 09:08 PM
Glad you found a fix, how much is involved with installing the replacement? Do all of the switch pad wires lead to a common plug?

charlieft
03-30-2010, 11:44 AM
My brother has a 2005 340DA and I noticed that his engine hatch has a built-in prop that folds down to make sure the hatch doesn't collapse if the piston fails (I guess that's what it's for)
Do the newer 300DA's have one of these props? My 2003 doesn't, and since I saw it on the 340 I have wondered whether I should rig something up.

-Charlie

Bel_Mar_Pointe
03-30-2010, 06:41 PM
Hmmmm....my 2005 doesn't have one.

Bridog
03-30-2010, 11:34 PM
2006 doesn't either.

jeremyandalison
04-01-2010, 02:05 PM
Hey Guys,

Please help me work out some of my boating fever as I await delivery of my 300DA later this month by indulging my random questions...

I went down to look at my boat during the survey in September, but I haven't seen it since and I have some things I wish I had figured out then:

1) We have a boat with the cabin settee configuration (not the dinette) - it apparently converts to a berth, but how does this work? Does it pull out? Are there filler cushions? When I was down there I couldn't see how it would pull out.

2) How does the "conversation pit" convert to a berth? Are there filler cushions and some sort of table top?

3) Where do you store the cabin table and post? Where does the cockpit table/post get stored?

Thanks!

Ididntdoit
04-01-2010, 02:17 PM
Hey Guys,

Please help me work out some of my boating fever as I await delivery of my 300DA later this month by indulging my random questions...

I went down to look at my boat during the survey in September, but I haven't seen it since and I have some things I wish I had figured out then:

1) We have a boat with the cabin settee configuration (not the dinette) - it apparently converts to a berth, but how does this work? Does it pull out? Are there filler cushions? When I was down there I couldn't see how it would pull out.

2) How does the "conversation pit" convert to a berth? Are there filler cushions and some sort of table top?

3) Where do you store the cabin table and post? Where does the cockpit table/post get stored?

Thanks!
1) It slides out about 6" just reach under the front of the cushion and pull - no filler cushions
2) I leave mine set up so I almost don't remember but - ithink you slide the middle cushion forward on the cleats and then remove a few of the side bolsters to fill i n the space - we covered the whole thing with a full size bed 4" memory foam - its great
3)The cabin table stores in a special shelf at the top of the cabinet thats under the v-birth - pole goes there too - the cockpit table has dedicated storage under the aft bench and the pole goes under the opposite bench (cushion lifts) or under the helm

Bel_Mar_Pointe
04-01-2010, 02:36 PM
2) surprised that there was nothing in the manual about this one but you are correct. Slide the middle cushion forward and insert the filler cushions.

We too converted this section to our full time bed with memory foam and it works well. The v-berth was just too small and odd angled for me.

When we purchased our boat the cabin table was located on the special shelf under the v-berth but the pole was missing. It was not until I discovered the super secret storage cabinet that this pole was found.

Ididntdoit
04-01-2010, 02:57 PM
2) surprised that there was nothing in the manual about this one but you are correct. Slide the middle cushion forward and insert the filler cushions.

We too converted this section to our full time bed with memory foam and it works well. The v-berth was just too small and odd angled for me.

When we purchased our boat the cabin table was located on the special shelf under the v-berth but the pole was missing. It was not until I discovered the super secret storage cabinet that this pole was found.Ah Yes the super secret storage compartment - should we tell him where it is or just direct him to presentations avatar (similar set up on a 280)

wakeup 19
04-01-2010, 03:11 PM
Dumb question, where do you all keep your "active" lines. I keep most of mine under the aft facing seat. 92' 300' any other ideas? thanks RF:huh:

Stray Cat
04-01-2010, 06:36 PM
wakeup - I keep my dock lines in the compartment next to the helm seat. I keep my camper under the rear facing bench.

capecodcruiser
04-01-2010, 07:06 PM
Can you tell us "newbies" where the secret compartment is, or do we need the "secret" handshake for you to tell us???:)

wakeup 19
04-01-2010, 08:55 PM
wakeup - I keep my dock lines in the compartment next to the helm seat. I keep my camper under the rear facing bench.

I don't have that seat. I like to keep them out so they dry after use but I don't like them on the floor. The 92' only has the one long helm seat! thanks. How about you Quint 4?

jeremyandalison
04-02-2010, 07:13 PM
So if I find the super secret storage compartment will I find the holy grail there? Sounds a bit like a Dan Brown novel.

Lol. I'm going to rip the cabin apart before my boat gets splashed just to find the 'super secret storage'!

Glad to know you guys. Let me know when we're having a 300DA convention, I'm guessing it would be a good time!

Stray Cat
04-02-2010, 07:44 PM
So if I find the super secret storage compartment will I find the holy grail there?

You never know what you'll find....When we took delivery, we forgot all about the cockpit cover. After looking all over the boat for it we called the dealer and told them we were missing it. They said no, it is on the boat, just open the storage compartment by the.......:grin:

Her Diamond 2
04-11-2010, 07:35 PM
27 days until launch of my new/used 2004 300 Sundancer. Were very excited. I was going though to make sure everything works properly before taking delivery from the dealer and the speakers on the top side of the boat don't seem to be working properly. Down below, the toons are load and clear however on the top side you can faintly make out whats playing. Turning the volume up or down and adjusting the balance did not have any effect. Is their a switch to mute the top side speakres?

Thanks for your help.

Ididntdoit
04-11-2010, 07:42 PM
27 days until launch of my new/used 2004 300 Sundancer. Were very excited. I was going though to make sure everything works properly before taking delivery from the dealer and the speakers on the top side of the boat don't seem to be working properly. Down below, the toons are load and clear however on the top side you can faintly make out whats playing. Turning the volume up or down and adjusting the balance did not have any effect. Is their a switch to mute the top side speakres?

Thanks for your help.
Yes - on the 12v panel there is a switch marked "stereo amplifier" or somthing like that - that will power the cockpit speakers

Stray Cat
04-11-2010, 07:44 PM
You need to fade the sepakers to the cockpit (rear). Look for a fade adjustment on your stereo. You can blend cabin and cockpit together, only cabin, or only cockpit.

edit - or do what idntdoit mentioned.....jeez, I've been away from the boat toooo long.

villain style
04-18-2010, 04:27 PM
I have the original Clarion M1000R stereo in my boat. Would like to upgrade to newer version with Aux port so can play Ipod. Tried the cassette adapter but dont care for the static. Does anyone know how to get the old radio out? I have taked the face plate off but thats where I get hung up. Do I need to somehow remove the side interior panels to access the radio? How do you get in there for removal???? Appreciate any help....

Thanks -

Her Diamond 2
04-29-2010, 03:02 PM
Looks like I will be the owner of a 2004 300 Sundancer afterall. Compression test and survey came back good. One problem the dealers mechanic did find was the drive trim gauge worked intermittantly. The mechanic checked the sending unit and it appeared ok. The other gauge worked perfectly fine. They are not an authorized Mercury dealer so they are stumped. Any ideas since this will likely become my problem?

Bridog
05-17-2010, 04:31 PM
I wanted to update the floor on my 300DA's head compartment so I decided to go with "Nu-teak". It's waterproof, stain resistant, slip resistant and only 4mm thick. Feels just like the real teak I had on my previous boats swim platform and, unlike Flexiteek, this can be purchased by the sq foot for DIY projects like mine. What do you think? Brian

Stray Cat
05-17-2010, 04:55 PM
I like it. How friendly is it to cut and work with? What did you use to hold it down?

Bridog
05-17-2010, 05:13 PM
I like it. How friendly is it to cut and work with? What did you use to hold it down?Thanks Jeff. Very easy to cut. I cut it with a utility knife and put it down with Bostik marine adhesive 940A
http://www.bostik-us.com/markets/transportation/marine/products/default.html

Bottom Line
05-17-2010, 10:38 PM
Brian....floor looks good!!

Bridog
05-18-2010, 10:55 PM
Brian....floor looks good!!
Thanks Jeff

villain style
06-25-2010, 01:09 PM
I think my Battery charger is dying. Started with a buzzing sound prior to winter. After winter I found a battery that exploded... Replaced battery but still no charge on Port battery.. I believe it is original battery charger. Has anyone replaced theirs and if so what brand/model did you have and what brand/model did you replace it with and how easy was it to replace?????

Merrymacs
06-28-2010, 06:08 PM
I just replaced my battery charger 3 weeks ago on my 310 Sundancer. Marine Max recommended that I purchase a Charles brand charger because they are supposedly the best out there. I purchased a Charles 5000 Series 20 amp charger with 3 ports which is doing a fantastic job for me. If you want to get the batteries charged a little faster yet you can go with the Charles 5000 Series 30 amp charger with 3 ports for a couple hundred more bucks. The best deal I have seen on the net has been about $295.00 plus freight for the Charles 20 amp charger.

quote=villain style;364564]I think my Battery charger is dying. Started with a buzzing sound prior to winter. After winter I found a battery that exploded... Replaced battery but still no charge on Port battery.. I believe it is original battery charger. Has anyone replaced theirs and if so what brand/model did you have and what brand/model did you replace it with and how easy was it to replace?????[/quote]

villain style
07-05-2010, 07:38 AM
Good info - thanks...

Her Diamond 2
07-05-2010, 06:48 PM
Hello all,

I'm hoping all you Sea Ray owners can help me a few questions I have with my 2004 300 Sundancer.

- The air conditioner is a Cruisair SMXIR SXR12. It works fine but the stream of water coming out seems to be half as powerful as other boats in the marina. The strainer is clean. Could it be the impeller? Where is the impeller on this system?

- The air conditioner drip tray is quite rusted since it always has water in it. Water needs to hit the top of the drains to ever begin to drain. I checked the line to the mid bildge pump it's clear. Anyone else experience this? Possible solution?

- The TV is a 13 inch tube TV/DVD. It only works with the shore power hooked up or the generator running. The TV's not AC/DC but for some reason I expected it to run off the batteries.

- The vacuflush toilet is losing the water in the bowl. Any ideas on the fix? Is their any maintenance to a vacuflush toilet?

- Speedo doesn't work. I've tried to clear the pickup on the drive. It seemed clear but nothing changed. Any ideas?

Moving from a 1989 250 to this boat is very exciting however as you can tell, I have lots to learn about its systems.

Thanks for all your help.

flflatrate
07-05-2010, 07:10 PM
a/c water flow. if boat is in salt water you might have the lines clogged. try barnacle buster ( run it thru system)

allot of those tv's are ac and dc. if its not then it will not run on the batteries. (do you have a breaker on your dc panel that says tv or accy?)

if toilet is losing water in bowl and its getting sucked down, is the pedal coming all the way back up? you can try to replace the 2 seals between the bowl and base. you only need a flat screw driver to do it.

speedo. did you check both outdrives? sometimes they will use the pickup on the port drive. you can also tile the o/d up and make sure the hose is in the yellow fitting and that is installed in the outdrive. Do you have a GPS? some boats have the speedo (if its smartcraft gauges) hooked to the speedo using nema wires. meaning the gps has to be on and gps has to have a signal.

Her Diamond 2
07-05-2010, 08:09 PM
Thanks for the information.

The boat is a fresh water boat. Unfortunaly I can't find an owners manual for the a/c.

The breaker panel does not have an accessory switch so I'm guessing I'm out of luck on using the TV on the hook. Probably not a bad thing.

I was looking at the toilet and it looks like their is a large clamp that holds the toilet on. Do I just take out the toilet off the base and go from there?

I'll look for the hose on the outdrive next time I'm up. I installed a new GPS but the speedo didn't work with the prior GPS either which I believe was the factory installed unit. Part of the problem is I'm having trouble getting the Raymarine A50D to register a speed. I'm working with Raymarine on that but I have a fix and the GPS works otherwise.

Stray Cat
07-05-2010, 09:01 PM
- The air conditioner is a Cruisair SMXIR SXR12. It works fine but the stream of water coming out seems to be half as powerful as other boats in the marina. The strainer is clean. Could it be the impeller? Where is the impeller on this system?
The water pump is close coupled to the AC electric motor for the pump. Has your boat always been a fresh water boat? With the lid off the strainer, how good is your water flow when you turn on the seacock? It should gush into your strainer's inlet...I had to back flush mine once after I sucked up some grass.

- The air conditioner drip tray is quite rusted since it always has water in it. Water needs to hit the top of the drains to ever begin to drain. I checked the line to the mid bildge pump it's clear. Anyone else experience this? Possible solution?
Mine is the same way....I pour some bilge cleaner a couple of times during the summer in the condensate pan of the AC unit. When you put the boat up on plane, the rise of the bow normally will allow some of the water to drain off quickly to the mid shower sump. Otherwise it takes about 2 inches of water in the pan to drain off through he lines.

- The TV is a 13 inch tube TV/DVD. It only works with the shore power hooked up or the generator running. The TV's not AC/DC but for some reason I expected it to run off the batteries. Nope, start the genny or plug into shore power. The TV DVD are plugged into an AC outlet and are part of the Refrig / AC outlet portion of the AC breaker panel.

- The vacuflush toilet is losing the water in the bowl. Any ideas on the fix? Is their any maintenance to a vacuflush toilet?
I like to try the easiest fix first, try cleaning the bowl with a good dose of Sealand Toilet Bowl Cleaner. It has a conditioner in it that helps soften rubber seals. Otherwise the bowl seal needs to be replaced. There are a few threads on CSR that have covered the bowl seal replacement. I have not done it yet, but it seems quite simple.

Bridog
07-06-2010, 08:01 AM
- The TV is a 13 inch tube TV/DVD. It only works with the shore power hooked up or the generator running. The TV's not AC/DC but for some reason I expected it to run off the batteries. Nope, start the genny or plug into shore power. The TV DVD are plugged into an AC outlet and are part of the Refrig / AC outlet portion of the AC breaker panel.
Thanks Jeff. I thought mine was wired wrong too. Brian

Her Diamond 2
07-12-2010, 09:19 PM
Well another weekend on the water and more questions. I'm glad to have experienced 300 owners to help. My new boat (2004 300 Sundancer) has the smart craft gauges that I have a few questions on.

1) After fully filling up the boat, I ran approx 25 miles and the fuel tanks were at different levels. I tried to reset to default and played with a few other things and the port tank/engine doesn't seem use any fuel. Its read full or if I change the capacity, it shows low fuel. Great, but unfortunately not correct. Does anyone know the default settings for the smart craft gauges? How do you reset each tank to read properly? These gauges are cool but their is something to be said about the analog gauges.

2) My boat has twin 5.0L's and at cruse, on engine burns approx 1-1.5 GPH at cruise (3500-3600 RPM). Is this normal?

Thanks again.

jeffk
07-22-2010, 02:16 PM
Anybody know where the sterio amplifier is for the cockpit? I think I lost the starboard side. Hopefully it is a loose wire!!!

2006 300DA

Bottom Line
07-22-2010, 04:43 PM
Anybody know where the sterio amplifier is for the cockpit? I think I lost the starboard side. Hopefully it is a loose wire!!!

2006 300DA

On my 2002 it is under the from berth....on the starboard side.

Bridog
07-22-2010, 07:41 PM
Anybody know where the sterio amplifier is for the cockpit? I think I lost the starboard side. Hopefully it is a loose wire!!!

2006 300DAWow, perfect timing. I was down Monday and noticed that both the right side cockpit speakers weren't working. The cabin right side was on. Hopefully it's something easy. Jeff, Let me know what you find. The Clarion I have does not have a fader for right/left. Only forward and aft. Thanks, Brian

Bel_Mar_Pointe
07-22-2010, 11:55 PM
My stock amp was located under the triangle hatch, starboard side in the v-berth. A 50x2 feeding all four cockpit speakers. Cabin speakers fed via head unit.

jeffk
07-23-2010, 07:19 AM
Wow, perfect timing. I was down Monday and noticed that both the right side cockpit speakers weren't working. The cabin right side was on. Hopefully it's something easy. Jeff, Let me know what you find. The Clarion I have does not have a fader for right/left. Only forward and aft. Thanks, Brian


That is exactly what is wrong with my unit. I will have to check this weekend. I'll get back to you.

Bel_Mar_Pointe...........Did you have a problem with yours too? Was there a breaker per side, or bad amp?

Ididntdoit
07-23-2010, 10:20 AM
Well another weekend on the water and more questions. I'm glad to have experienced 300 owners to help. My new boat (2004 300 Sundancer) has the smart craft gauges that I have a few questions on.

1) After fully filling up the boat, I ran approx 25 miles and the fuel tanks were at different levels. I tried to reset to default and played with a few other things and the port tank/engine doesn't seem use any fuel. Its read full or if I change the capacity, it shows low fuel. Great, but unfortunately not correct. Does anyone know the default settings for the smart craft gauges? How do you reset each tank to read properly? These gauges are cool but their is something to be said about the analog gauges.

2) My boat has twin 5.0L's and at cruse, on engine burns approx 1-1.5 GPH at cruise (3500-3600 RPM). Is this normal?

Thanks again.I'm having the same issue with one of my tanks - may be a sender - hopefully someone here can help - as to fuel burn it should be around 20 gph at 3500rpm

Bel_Mar_Pointe
07-23-2010, 01:29 PM
That is exactly what is wrong with my unit. I will have to check this weekend. I'll get back to you.

Bel_Mar_Pointe...........Did you have a problem with yours too? Was there a breaker per side, or bad amp?

No...no issues with mine but it now feeds just the cabin speakers after mods. Just the one breaker in the panel for this unit. There is also a fuse on the amp itself but you would not get anything out if blown.

I would start at the amp, swap inputs to eliminate speaker wiring issue and work my way back to the head unit to troubleshoot.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
07-23-2010, 01:45 PM
I'm having the same issue with one of my tanks - may be a sender - hopefully someone here can help - as to fuel burn it should be around 20 gph at 3500rpm

I don't have a lot of faith in these gauges after recalibrating the units numerous times. Refer to the manual and you will see two different calibration options. One using the default tank size and another where you need to calibrate starting from empty and adding a quarter tank at a time, a real PITA.

I got tired of screwing with them and now reset my "fuel used" gauge everytime I fill up. Seems to be close to accurate and a good backup for these crazy units.

jeffk
07-24-2010, 07:10 PM
"I would start at the amp, swap inputs to eliminate speaker wiring issue and work my way back to the head unit to troubleshoot."

Well, its the AMP, It is the cheap Marine Audio MA-PA2.1. I can't find any info on this AMP, and I want to change it out for a beefier one. Anyone have a pinout of the connector of it?

mfilippa
07-27-2010, 11:03 AM
Quick one on canvas for a 300DA. I just got this boat with a canvas in a really bad shape, so asked for a quote. This is what I got from Great Lakes. Can anyone comment on the prices?

1. Bimini Top (Fabric Only) Qty:1 $797.00
2. Bimini Valance Qty:1 $147.04
3. Bimini Top (Enclosure) Side Curtains (set) Qty:1 $327.89
4. Bimini Top (Enclosure) Visor Curtain Clear (set) Qty:1 $394.41
5. Sunshade Top (Fabric Only) Qty:1 $779.09
6. Sunshade Valance Qty:1 $168.72
7. Sunshade - Aft. Curtain Qty:1 $584.11
8. Cockpit Cover Standard Qty:1 $849.13
9. Cockpit Cover w/Camper Qty:1 $861.14

I am looking for fabric only, no valance (I already have it). Would I regret getting an aft curtain instead of a camper top?

Thanks!

Stray Cat
07-28-2010, 04:52 PM
Did they give you any discounts? In early spring they will extend a pre season discount....maybe you can wrangle a near end of season discount. Here's the deal though, would anything other than the custom fit Great Lakes product look right on your 300? nope

Bridog
07-28-2010, 05:17 PM
Well, its the AMP, It is the cheap Marine Audio MA-PA2.1. I can't find any info on this AMP, and I want to change it out for a beefier one. Anyone have a pinout of the connector of it?Same problem and same amp. Let me know what you get and if it's a simple swap.

Ididntdoit
07-28-2010, 05:48 PM
Quick one on canvas for a 300DA. I just got this boat with a canvas in a really bad shape, so asked for a quote. This is what I got from Great Lakes. Can anyone comment on the prices?

1. Bimini Top (Fabric Only) Qty:1 $797.00
2. Bimini Valance Qty:1 $147.04
3. Bimini Top (Enclosure) Side Curtains (set) Qty:1 $327.89
4. Bimini Top (Enclosure) Visor Curtain Clear (set) Qty:1 $394.41
5. Sunshade Top (Fabric Only) Qty:1 $779.09
6. Sunshade Valance Qty:1 $168.72
7. Sunshade - Aft. Curtain Qty:1 $584.11
8. Cockpit Cover Standard Qty:1 $849.13
9. Cockpit Cover w/Camper Qty:1 $861.14

I am looking for fabric only, no valance (I already have it). Would I regret getting an aft curtain instead of a camper top?

Thanks!I have an aft curtain used 1 season mint condition Black - Paid close to $600 - will sell for $200

Theresamarie11
08-01-2010, 01:57 PM
Ok 300da owners. We're going to make an offer on a 2006 300da, with all options except gen ( which we'll have to add as we consider it a necessity). The boat has 42 hrs and twin 5.7 mags with b3 drives. Very clean, like new. He's asking 85, and nada guides says 68. I never know how to interpret boat pricing. Can I get comments please.

Terri

Bridog
08-01-2010, 04:37 PM
Terri, A generator add on is is not cheap. 9-12K probably. I would look for one with the generator already installed. 68K? Yikes, I hope not. For our sake, not yours :) Good luck. Brian

jeffk
08-01-2010, 06:57 PM
Sales price we just paid in Feb was $79,900 with Genny. Cheapest 2006 300 out there at the time, and only 1 hour away, and they took our trade :thumbsup:.

padre
08-01-2010, 09:45 PM
Have owned a 1995 270 for several years and looking to move up to a 2005 300 Sundancer with 5.0's and Bravo III's. Looking over some of the other info are these engines underpowered or do they get the job done. Just joined into the Club Sea Ray. Also it is a repo and the dash doesn't seem to match the manual they have on line, only five gauges, does not have the three small ones for fuel and engine sync, where can I find the info on the "mode" functions for the other gauges.

Theresamarie11
08-01-2010, 10:07 PM
Terri, A generator add on is is not cheap. 9-12K probably. I would look for one with the generator already installed. 68K? Yikes, I hope not. For our sake, not yours :) Good luck. Brian

Hi there, i was off on the number, the nominal with options was 75, with no gen. The gen added another 4k.
If you're right on the cost ot the gen we'll only offer the price with gen minus the quote we get. That'll probably be unacceptable but what we'd have to do. Darn, it's a lot more than I expected. This boat is like new with 42 hrs.

Terri

jeffk
08-02-2010, 11:38 AM
Low hours isn't always best, speaking from experience. Things rot, corrode, seize, etc. Make sure you get a Survey, and run it!!

jeffk
08-02-2010, 11:41 AM
Same problem and same amp. Let me know what you get and if it's a simple swap.


Bridog, do you have a manual for this AMP, wire pinout? The amp we have has 2 inputs and 2 outputs. They tied 2 speakers to the 2 outputs. I am looking into another AMP that has 2 inputs, but has 4 separate outputs.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
08-02-2010, 12:52 PM
Bridog, do you have a manual for this AMP, wire pinout? The amp we have has 2 inputs and 2 outputs. They tied 2 speakers to the 2 outputs. I am looking into another AMP that has 2 inputs, but has 4 separate outputs.

Jeff...you probably don't need a manual for the amp. If like mine, you have a power lead, negative lead, blue power-on lead (turns amp on when head unit is powered up), two RCA inputs and two speaker outputs (2 channel). On mine they paralleled two pairs of speakers to the amp. I replaced the unit with a JL Audio M4300 4-channel amp. There are a lot of cheaper options out there too.

jeffk
08-02-2010, 01:58 PM
Jeff...you probably don't need a manual for the amp. If like mine, you have a power lead, negative lead, blue power-on lead (turns amp on when head unit is powered up), two RCA inputs and two speaker outputs (2 channel). On mine they paralleled two pairs of speakers to the amp. I replaced the unit with a JL Audio M4300 4-channel amp. There are a lot of cheaper options out there too.

Thanks, I have my eye on a Clarion and a Boss unit. How much did you pay for your JL Audio unit?

Bel_Mar_Pointe
08-02-2010, 02:21 PM
Thanks, I have my eye on a Clarion and a Boss unit. How much did you pay for your JL Audio unit?

~$275 on sale but I also upgraded the speakers to JL M770s. If you are keeping the stock speakers, keep it simple and cheaper. Pretty straightforward replacement. I had to install an inline fuse for mine but many amps have onboard circuit protection. Anything will be better than the POS that is in there.

Theresamarie11
08-07-2010, 08:20 PM
Well Guys, we took a 2002 300DA for a ride today on lake wallenpaupack and wow, nice ride. We found this one with a full Furuno electronics package including radar, 350mags with bravo IIIs, 5kw generator, the works. Best we could tell everything is in fine condition. We made an offer, put a deposit on it and are calling the surveyor on Monday.

I was surprised at how nimble it is. It turns really nicely, with little to no loss in speed, and the seller put it into his slip (which had very little side-side room, without using the steering wheel! I have never seen this. He used the shift/throttle controls and kept one drive in reverse and then modulated the other forward reverse to move the back end where he wanted. It was pretty slick.

When we got there he had the generator running with the air on (cabin was frosty on a hot day).

Oh, and he threw a huge aluminum triple axle trailer in with it.

And honestly, could not tell a bit of difference between this and the 2006 we looked at. Everything seemed identical except he had custom eisenglass on this where it has those u shaped openings that roll up. 250 hours and the price is a lot less.

I'm crossing my fingers that the survey doesn't turn up any nastyness.


Terri

Stray Cat
08-08-2010, 09:20 PM
Good luck with the survey Terri, the 300DA is very nimble at 35 mph as it is around the docks.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
08-08-2010, 10:30 PM
Best of luck with the 300DA Terri. Yes, they do ride nice.

Theresamarie11
08-09-2010, 08:25 AM
Best of luck with the 300DA Terri. Yes, they do ride nice.

The other neat thing is that it doesn't act like a bobber. I purposefully caught up to another big boat on the lake, got along side (50 yrds or so) and cut the motors and waited to see how the wake effected us. And it was hardly at all. On our 260 with the big 7.4 and fuel in the middle, it acts a bit like a bobber... it really can rock. The 300da, i suspect because of the motors and tanks on the sides, is so much more stable. This is going to be so nice.

Theresamarie11
08-09-2010, 08:40 AM
Good luck with the survey Terri, the 300DA is very nimble at 35 mph as it is around the docks.

Hi Stray Cat. Can you say what your top end has been on your boat? We did a very short wide open test but didn't get it quite trimmed out well and were running 43.x mph. The owner said he's seen 50mph on the GPS but this seems very fast for a 6 ton boat. I suspect it doesn't go a whole lot faster than where we got it to. The trim tab buttons are really funky, don't like them as much as the rocker switch so couldn't really tell if they were up/down.

With respect to around the docks, I was pretty amazed at how slow and exact he can move it. The 7.4 in my boat, at idle, moves it quite fast so i need to put it in and out of gear.
He is also in a very quiet area on a small lake, and am wondering how much wind plays on that big hull in less sheltered waters. We are in champlain, in a bay, but can still get blown around quite a bit.

mfilippa
08-09-2010, 10:54 AM
Congrats! good luck on the survey! We took our 300DA '01 a month ago and had the same exact experience. It is amazing what an extra feet or so in beam does for stability. While the 260/280s are dancing to the wakes, ours stay pretty steady.

What is the brand of the trailer? Do you have any specs? I am thinking of getting one for the winter. I hate when they put it on cinder blocks...

Do you mind me asking how much you got it for? PM me. I would like to know if I got a good deal on mine or not. I bet you got an awesome deal.

If you never had twin screws before, it is a neat experience to dock with them. Some people say you gotta use only throttle and gear, keep steering straight. I found that for me it is necessary to use steering in some cases. I put a nice rookie show when I pull to the gas station at the marina....:grin:

jeffk
08-09-2010, 04:05 PM
Same problem and same amp. Let me know what you get and if it's a simple swap.


The IC inside the Amp was bad, cost $11. something with shipping. Found the part on ebay, and replaced it myself. It is a 13 pin IC, if you can unsolder and solder, it's a peice of cake.

TDA8560Q is the part, incase the link doesn't work.

http://cgi.ebay.com:80/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160185893918

Stray Cat
08-09-2010, 10:02 PM
Hi Stray Cat. Can you say what your top end has been on your boat? We did a very short wide open test but didn't get it quite trimmed out well and were running 43.x mph. The owner said he's seen 50mph on the GPS but this seems very fast for a 6 ton boat. I suspect it doesn't go a whole lot faster than where we got it to. The trim tab buttons are really funky, don't like them as much as the rocker switch so couldn't really tell if they were up/down.

With respect to around the docks, I was pretty amazed at how slow and exact he can move it. The 7.4 in my boat, at idle, moves it quite fast so i need to put it in and out of gear.
He is also in a very quiet area on a small lake, and am wondering how much wind plays on that big hull in less sheltered waters. We are in champlain, in a bay, but can still get blown around quite a bit.

With 1/4 fuel, 1/2 water tank, empty holding tank, minimal gear, clean bottom paint, at 5400rpm my Smart View registered 48 mph (non gps).

The wind will push on the boat like any cruiser this size. The trick is to anticipate how the boat will react and adjust it before it gets out of shape. I use the steering wheel when backing down on my slip...I think the boat responds faster than just using the shifters with the drives straight, I like the way the boat pivots when using the wheel....It is what you get used to.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
08-09-2010, 11:15 PM
With 1/4 fuel, 1/2 water tank, empty holding tank, minimal gear, clean bottom paint, at 5400rpm my Smart View registered 48 mph (non gps).

The wind will push on the boat like any cruiser this size. The trick is to anticipate how the boat will react and adjust it before it gets out of shape. I use the steering wheel when backing down on my slip...I think the boat responds faster than just using the shifters with the drives straight, I like the way the boat pivots when using the wheel....It is what you get used to.


I agree...this is my first boat so I learned to always use the throttles around the dock and never use the wheel.

Theresamarie11
08-10-2010, 08:57 AM
With 1/4 fuel, 1/2 water tank, empty holding tank, minimal gear, clean bottom paint, at 5400rpm my Smart View registered 48 mph (non gps).

The wind will push on the boat like any cruiser this size. The trick is to anticipate how the boat will react and adjust it before it gets out of shape. I use the steering wheel when backing down on my slip...I think the boat responds faster than just using the shifters with the drives straight, I like the way the boat pivots when using the wheel....It is what you get used to.

What is smartview speed versus the normal speedometer? Is there a difference? That's one thing this boat doesn't have and wish it did. 48mph is plenty fast!

Terri

Bridog
08-10-2010, 09:45 AM
What is smartview speed versus the normal speedometer? Is there a difference? That's one thing this boat doesn't have and wish it did. 48mph is plenty fast!

TerriWith Smartview/Smartcraft speeds can be measured normally with the pitot, or measured by GPS if the Smartcraft is connected to one. My boat does about 42-43MPH now. Early in the season I'm closer to 45MPH. After the scum and crud start's to form, it slows me down some. 43 is still plenty fast for this boat. So did you get your 300DA yet?

Bridog
08-10-2010, 09:47 AM
The IC inside the Amp was bad, cost $11. something with shipping. Found the part on ebay, and replaced it myself. It is a 13 pin IC, if you can unsolder and solder, it's a peice of cake.

TDA8560Q is the part, incase the link doesn't work.

http://cgi.ebay.com:80/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160185893918
Thanks

Theresamarie11
08-10-2010, 11:50 AM
With Smartview/Smartcraft speeds can be measured normally with the pitot, or measured by GPS if the Smartcraft is connected to one. My boat does about 42-43MPH now. Early in the season I'm closer to 45MPH. After the scum and crud start's to form, it slows me down some. 43 is still plenty fast for this boat. So did you get your 300DA yet?

Hey Bridog, survey is this Thursday so my fingers are crossed. If it goes well paperwork will start that day and then I'm on vaca for a week and hope when I come back it's all set to take.

It has a trailer but we don't have a truck we can take outside the state that will pull it, so hiring a company to do it. There are many restrictions so we're trying to figure that out.

May have to take the arch down for the trip if it's over around 13'8". Have you ever done this?
I know we'll have to take down radome, antennas, gps receiver, etc.


Terri

Bel_Mar_Pointe
08-10-2010, 12:08 PM
Hey Bridog, survey is this Thursday so my fingers are crossed. If it goes well paperwork will start that day and then I'm on vaca for a week and hope when I come back it's all set to take.

It has a trailer but we don't have a truck we can take outside the state that will pull it, so hiring a company to do it. There are many restrictions so we're trying to figure that out.

May have to take the arch down for the trip if it's over around 13'8". Have you ever done this?
I know we'll have to take down radome, antennas, gps receiver, etc.


Terri

I had my 300DA delivered from Idaho and it was under the height limit, so no arch removal. They did use a low-boy trailer so that made a difference. Best of luck!

Theresamarie11
08-10-2010, 06:16 PM
Bad news... our deal just fell through. Owner disclosed he's done no service to drive train or generator since he's had it (except changing oil). We shared that with the surveyor and he said that he will definitely say bellows and fresh water pump impellers need immediate servicing. We talked to the owner, and despite having a well articulated sales agreement with stipulations for surveyor findings, he said he's not willing to pay for anything that's not broken or make price concessions.

So we mutually agreed to exit the agreement... we're bummed.

But we do have this great 260DA that we can use in the meantime.

Given we're in Vermont, we're going to put off resuming our search until spring.

Thanks for everyone's support and suggestions.


Terri

Bottom Line
08-21-2010, 09:25 PM
OK...300DA owners...I have a borderline OCD question....and I hope this question make sense. In the head, do your light switch and fan switch go the same direction when they are both either on or off? I thought mine did....but I noticed last weekend when both are off, they are toggled in opposite directions.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
08-21-2010, 10:04 PM
Being borderline OCD myself, I'm 99% sure that they are in the same position when on or off. I can't imagine that I would not have noticed if they weren't.

Cocktail Time
08-22-2010, 12:49 PM
Hey guys, since this seems to be a common issue, I see a couple people are having problems with no sound on the right or left. Before you change out amps, all Clarion head units have a "balance" control that will adjust your volume left or right. I would check that setting before swapping amps. I have had the kids mess with the balance and fader on more than one occasion. It is pretty easy to do.

Bridog
08-22-2010, 01:46 PM
OK...300DA owners...I have a borderline OCD question....and I hope this question make sense. In the head, do your light switch and fan switch go the same direction when they are both either on or off? I thought mine did....but I noticed last weekend when both are off, they are toggled in opposite directions.Jeff, I checked today. Ours are the same. Off or on toggled in the opposite direction. I've never noticed before because I rarely have the "vent" power switch on. Brian

Stray Cat
08-22-2010, 09:01 PM
OK...300DA owners...I have a borderline OCD question....and I hope this question make sense. In the head, do your light switch and fan switch go the same direction when they are both either on or off? I thought mine did....but I noticed last weekend when both are off, they are toggled in opposite directions.

Here is what you need to do, in the head, if the vent is (on) when the switch is in the down position (off), go to your galley switch and flip it until it turns off. There now you have the head switches in the same position. But now they'll be offset at the galley switches...atleast you don't have too look at it when you are doing your business! :lol:

Bottom Line
08-22-2010, 09:15 PM
Brian, Brian & Jeff....thanks for the replys. Here is what caused me to look at the switches. I always thought they always went the same direction...pressed down to turn them on(I think...I turned 45 in July,so I am already forgetting stuff). Last weekend, my wife was putting some stuff in the fridge and shut the door and she said the fan in the head came on....so I looked at the swithes...and when they are off, they are toggled in opposite directions. I am sure they have always been that way. I was just curious how other switches were positioned.

Bottom Line
08-22-2010, 09:17 PM
Jeff, I checked today. Ours are the same. Off or on toggled in the opposite direction. I've never noticed before because I rarely have the "vent" power switch on. Brian

Brian...about the only time ours is on, is when I stumble in there in the middle of the night and just reach for a switch.

mfilippa
08-22-2010, 10:22 PM
OK...300DA owners...I have a borderline OCD question....and I hope this question make sense. In the head, do your light switch and fan switch go the same direction when they are both either on or off? I thought mine did....but I noticed last weekend when both are off, they are toggled in opposite directions.

Part of the items I have to do during winter storage is rewire this switch. As stupid as this issue is, it just drives me nuts. I am guessing it is wired as a regular 2-way switch and I only need to swap two terminals on either switch.

JimFromMD
08-25-2010, 03:58 PM
Question:
So I just got a 2005 300DA that was lake kept and did not have any gps/radar suite installed. What units typically came on the boat? I've seen a Raymarine C70 on one.

Considering the Garmin 4208/5208 series. Not sure that a Ramarine C90w will fit. Any thoughts?

Her Diamond 2
08-25-2010, 08:12 PM
I installed a Raymarine A50D this spring. It's a smaller unit than you are looking at but I drive the boat standing and with the unit being so close to the steering wheel, I find it a little difficult to see. Depending on how your drive the boat, a bigger screen may not be beneficial at all. If you sit while driving, you'll be fine.

As for Raymarine vs Garmin, my previous boat had a Garmin and I found their customer service way better and more helpful than Raymarine.

JimFromMD
08-30-2010, 08:41 AM
So had a great maiden voyage home this weekend with the new boat. Found a few interesting things however. So all my sinks, shower, and AC drain into the small pump box in the bilge outside the shower. Typically sink / shower water flows out over the side and only the head emptys into the waste tank. The sinks on my friend's 2005 320DA drains overboard.

My boat is set up so that all grey water goes into the holding tank too. There is another pump in that bilge area that pumps overboard, but the small common drain box pumps into the holding tank. Does anyone else have this setup? I looked in the owners manual in disgram 7.6.2 shows it going overboard.

I know the previous owner kept the boat on a lake, so that may have something to do with it, but this looks like a factory setup instead of something that would have been set up after market.

Just curious... as keeping this set up the way it is currently is going to be a pain with constant pump outs. I found this out while trying to clean pink antifreeze out the water tank.. and all of a sudden I had blue (holding tank blue) water backflow into that box when the holding tank got full and back pressure caused it to flow back past the check valve.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
08-30-2010, 09:35 AM
Congrats again Jim! My sinks drain overboard so I can't really comment on the grey water option. Does sound like a PITA if not required in your boating area.

How did the boat run/handle during your maiden voyage?

JimFromMD
08-30-2010, 10:51 AM
Congrats again Jim! My sinks drain overboard so I can't really comment on the grey water option. Does sound like a PITA if not required in your boating area.

How did the boat run/handle during your maiden voyage?



The boat ran great. Luckily had a high tide to creep my way out of the narrow channel from the marina where the boat was kept for some hull detailing. The Chesapeake was flat on saturday so the boat got up on plane nicely and had an uneventful hour and a half ride back. Performed great. Spend the rest of the day cleaning and figuring out the drain system. Sunday we spent on the hook in Harnass Creek with the nettle pool out behind the boat. Perfect weather. Hopefully Hurricane Earl will leave us alone this thursday/friday so that we can have a good Labor Day weekend on the bay too!


So your sinks and shower all drain into that shower box though correct? My discharge line from that shower box is white and goes back to the holding tank. There is a fatter black line coming off the bilge pump outside the shower box which goes overboard when you run it. I looked in the owners manual and in the diagram the line that goes to the holding tank is labeled "overbard discharge" and the thru-hull from the other bilge pump is labeled "central drain"... So I'm thinking I have some alternate configuration for lake boats.

Definitely plan on getting that straightened out so the gray water goes over the side. Do you know how your drain from the shower box connects to the "central drain" line that comes off the other bilge pump? There's a blue connector in that hose, but it is not a "T" or "Y" valve... just looks like a blue plastic fitting inline with the hose so I assumed it was a check valve or something.

Theresamarie11
08-30-2010, 12:22 PM
Hi All, we ended up getting the 300DA after all.

But a problem with hot water, there is none. In fact no water (hot or cold) out of any hot water faucet. Turn the spigot on and a few dribbles and stops and no pressure. Cold water works fine.
There is a distribution manifold with some kind of valve on each line with a funky wrench hanging on a wire. I could not turn any of the valves.. One of the nubs(that fits in wrench) for one of the valves was broken so didn't want to chance breaking more of them by forcing them.

The hot water heater is working, and if I open spigot on water heater, hot water does come out so it's getting plenty of cold water to heat. So I believe it must be a valve in the manifold, just can't figure out how to make it work.

My starboard windshield wiper doesn't work... Does anyone how how to get to the motor on a 2002 300DA?

On it's maiden voyage for me, I single handedly took it from Newburgh, NY on the Hudson to Mallett's bay, VT over the weekend (1.5 days) up through the canal. About 230 miles. On Champlain got it up to 48mph on the GPS with the 350mags and 3/4 tanks of gas and 3/4 water ...runs nice. Definitely what we wanted.

Seems reasonably economical (I was surprised).

Needs a good detailing though and some canvas work.

Surprised at how sensitive it is to trim..doesn't like to be trimmed up hardly at all..


Terri

mfilippa
08-30-2010, 05:52 PM
Did you have your boat surveyed? Did you know your hot water lines were not working? My surveyor charged me for three hours of work and told me he would thoroughly check the entire boat. He missed this kind of stuff all over the boat. Hopefully the water line is an easy fix.

I read on some other post that Great Lake tops could have a 20-25% fall discount. I asked for a quote for my '01 300DA (AFAIK, same as '02 model). I can send my prices for your reference in case you get offered a discount. I am waiting to see if I see anything on their website before spending ~$3k on it.

And yes, it doesn't like to be trimmed up.

Enjoy your new boat! :)

Her Diamond 2
08-30-2010, 08:29 PM
Congrats to all you need 300 owners. This is our first year with ours and we love it.

I do have another question I hoping a member can help with. A few weeks ago I had the starboard engine alarm go off and the motor shut down and wouldn't refire. The culprit was the IAC. The marina suckered me into new impellers at the same time.

This weekend I took the boat for a good run. While leaving the marina, I noticed the port engine hit 130 degrees and held steady while the starboard held steady in the 150's. I took the boat up on plane and the temp came up to 158 on both engines. When I came off plane, the port engine temp fell back to 130 and starboard remained in the 150's. After this point, both engine temps remained in the 150's. I just not sure why the port engine was 20+ degrees cooler at idle.

Any ideas? Water flow on the smart craft gauges looked good and they should, the impellers are brand new.

Thanks Again

Theresamarie11
08-30-2010, 10:06 PM
Hey, good to hear from you. Yes, I had it surveyed by someone who had a long list of credentials... I'm not putting his name here because he refunded my survey fee entirely after I told him of all of the things he missed. I figured out why no water was coming out of the hot water faucets tonight. As I was removing the hot water line from the distribution manifold to see if there is any pressure (it has some of that protective sleeve on the top) and found the the line was entirely twisted and kinked inside of the protective sleeve.. Once un-kinked, it worked fine. Surveyor told me he tested it (no way in heck was any water getting through that kink). He missed several items.. I will not enumerate here. Biggest one is that hot water heater had engine recirculating lines removed (one cut off and one nipple broken off). It still works on 120V and luckily we have a genset. But this was a real big miss. If you look at it, it can't be removed easily unless part of the engine or whole engine is removed first. He missed a bunch of cosmetic stuff, starboard wiper, yada, yada as well. I gave him both barrels and he immediately refunded his entire fee (but that doesn't make up for his misses). Luckily the biggest things (engines, drives, genset, hull) seem very sound.

I think I can have the canvas repaired for less than purchasing new ones. I have 2 canvas packages. One canvas is a custom camper canvas with really heavy glass and rollup inserts like on bigger boats (much heavier than the std great lakes canvas and eisenglass). The canvas around the arch itself needs new seals around the arch on both front/back pieces. I think I can have this replaced as the rest is fine. On the rear part of camper canvas, biggest issue is he's somehow pulled off 1/2 of the rear snaps. My 2000 260 has a pristine canvas. So I assume rough handling. I asked my surveyor to specifically look at canvas, and I guess he couldn't be bothered.

Today after figuring out the hot water flow issue, we cleaned air conditioning and genset water intake strainers and took it for a ride. Two miles into the bay we came across a stranded boater in a small boat in which the starter had failed. So we towed them in and it was dark by the time we got them to the public access.....end of day.

Radar is very cool.... Never used it before. Gives quite a piece of mind at night. It can pick up small bouys bright and clear which to me is great. I worry about some kayaker out there without a light.

So what did the surveyor miss on your boat? I am thinking this might be a good retirement job. I feel I could have done an infinitely better job and it really doesn't take much time to do it. Not quite sure what he did for his time. Since it was over 300miles away for me, I couldn't be there for the actual survey.



Did you have your boat surveyed? Did you know your hot water lines were not working? My surveyor charged me for three hours of work and told me he would thoroughly check the entire boat. He missed this kind of stuff all over the boat. Hopefully the water line is an easy fix.

I read on some other post that Great Lake tops could have a 20-25% fall discount. I asked for a quote for my '01 300DA (AFAIK, same as '02 model). I can send my prices for your reference in case you get offered a discount. I am waiting to see if I see anything on their website before spending ~$3k on it.

And yes, it doesn't like to be trimmed up.

Enjoy your new boat! :)

Stray Cat
08-30-2010, 10:27 PM
This weekend I took the boat for a good run. While leaving the marina, I noticed the port engine hit 130 degrees and held steady while the starboard held steady in the 150's. I took the boat up on plane and the temp came up to 158 on both engines. When I came off plane, the port engine temp fell back to 130 and starboard remained in the 150's. After this point, both engine temps remained in the 150's. I just not sure why the port engine was 20+ degrees cooler at idle.

Any ideas? Water flow on the smart craft gauges looked good and they should, the impellers are brand new.

Thanks Again

Is your boat raw water cooled? If so, what you experienced is a piece of debris got lodged in the thermostat. A grain of sand can cause it. If you're lucky it flushed out. If the port engine settled in at 150, you likely did.

Stray Cat
08-30-2010, 10:37 PM
Terri - By choice, I disconnected my heat exchanger hoses to the water heater. Rather than heating with sea water, the generator is loaded better when using AC. Since the water heater is a pita to remove, I'd just as soon not be running sea water through it anyway...

Enjoy the boat, the 350 Mags are a lot of fun when they are spooled up.

Theresamarie11
08-30-2010, 11:10 PM
Hey Jeff, thanks for the response. It's certainly a consideration not to replace it, but that means hot water needs to be a planned up front (i.e. genset, etc).

Can you say what your operating team is on your mags? Mine are a bit over 170 (just like our 260 with 7.4mpi), but just read that someones 5.0s are a whole lot cooler.
Both engines are identical and surveyed by a thermographer. Since our surveyor did a poor job in other places, wondering if he missed bad manifolds.

Terri






Terri - By choice, I disconnected my heat exchanger hoses to the water heater. Rather than heating with sea water, the generator is loaded better when using AC. Since the water heater is a pita to remove, I'd just as soon not be running sea water through it anyway...

Enjoy the boat, the 350 Mags are a lot of fun when they are spooled up.

Stray Cat
08-30-2010, 11:21 PM
Terri, mine run right at 157 to 160, even at idle. I'm not sure if the 2002 Mags used hotter T stats or not... Get a Raytek IR thermometer, every boater should have one on board, shoot your thermostat housings, manifolds, and risers to get the actual temps of your engines at those locations.

mfilippa
08-31-2010, 12:17 AM
Terri, the good thing is that you seem very knowledgeable in the boating subject and are able to work on it! :smt038

My boat surveyor missed several things. He didn't check the genset. I found out because when I took delivery, it was not working. Several gages were not working. Drive trim does not go all way up on starboard side, have to use trailer switch to bring them both up at the same level. Worst was that we went for our first trip in the lake and came back when dark, just to find out that we had no nav lights at all. I was super pissed.

I just don't have time for it. Busy weekdays, busy weekends, I just wanted someone else that knows their stuff to do it for me. Now, I am trying to get the boat to a heated storage and use the winter to learn about all the systems on board. I don't even know how the engines are cooled! (I have a slight idea...)

On the engines, both of my engines right slightly above 170C. Another thing I noticed is that I don't know how accurate the gages are. One engine reads about 500 to 1000RPM higher while sync gage is at the middle. At some point I will try to measure temps and revs manually and check the status of the gages.

You need to post pictures :)

Bridog
08-31-2010, 08:12 AM
Terri, mine run right at 157 to 160, even at idle.
I'm also right at 158-159 with a fresh water cooled system.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
08-31-2010, 10:27 AM
Jim....my sinks all drain to a common header which connects to an overboard drain port. This is a gravity drain system. The only feed to my shower sump is from the shower drain but A/C would also drain there if I had it. I checked the sump recently and it was bone dry as I haven't used the shower. If you don't get an answer here on your grey water system, you can start a new thread as there are others that have the system.

Good luck.......



The boat ran great. Luckily had a high tide to creep my way out of the narrow channel from the marina where the boat was kept for some hull detailing. The Chesapeake was flat on saturday so the boat got up on plane nicely and had an uneventful hour and a half ride back. Performed great. Spend the rest of the day cleaning and figuring out the drain system. Sunday we spent on the hook in Harnass Creek with the nettle pool out behind the boat. Perfect weather. Hopefully Hurricane Earl will leave us alone this thursday/friday so that we can have a good Labor Day weekend on the bay too!


So your sinks and shower all drain into that shower box though correct? My discharge line from that shower box is white and goes back to the holding tank. There is a fatter black line coming off the bilge pump outside the shower box which goes overboard when you run it. I looked in the owners manual and in the diagram the line that goes to the holding tank is labeled "overbard discharge" and the thru-hull from the other bilge pump is labeled "central drain"... So I'm thinking I have some alternate configuration for lake boats.

Definitely plan on getting that straightened out so the gray water goes over the side. Do you know how your drain from the shower box connects to the "central drain" line that comes off the other bilge pump? There's a blue connector in that hose, but it is not a "T" or "Y" valve... just looks like a blue plastic fitting inline with the hose so I assumed it was a check valve or something.

Theresamarie11
09-04-2010, 07:57 AM
Hi all,
Anyone ever try to access the starboard side windshield wiper motor? Mine is not moving and dash lights up so assume fuse is ok. There is a slanted panel above the mid salon area that seems like it would be behind the dashboard and possibly the wiper motor will be in there, but not sure how to remove it. There is nothing that indicates fasteners.

Thanks for any help.

Terri

Theresamarie11
09-04-2010, 09:30 AM
Yea, I know the feeling on the survey..wow did I find extra things and like I think I said before, I complained enough that he refunded me...but doesn't cover the cost of missed issues.
The latest thing I've found is that the cabin fridge will not work on 120V.. works fine on DC.

I will try to take some pics today. It's not been detailed yet but am doing a little bit of cleaning and putting our name on 'Therapy IV'.





Terri, the good thing is that you seem very knowledgeable in the boating subject and are able to work on it! :smt038

My boat surveyor missed several things. He didn't check the genset. I found out because when I took delivery, it was not working. Several gages were not working. Drive trim does not go all way up on starboard side, have to use trailer switch to bring them both up at the same level. Worst was that we went for our first trip in the lake and came back when dark, just to find out that we had no nav lights at all. I was super pissed.

I just don't have time for it. Busy weekdays, busy weekends, I just wanted someone else that knows their stuff to do it for me. Now, I am trying to get the boat to a heated storage and use the winter to learn about all the systems on board. I don't even know how the engines are cooled! (I have a slight idea...)

On the engines, both of my engines right slightly above 170C. Another thing I noticed is that I don't know how accurate the gages are. One engine reads about 500 to 1000RPM higher while sync gage is at the middle. At some point I will try to measure temps and revs manually and check the status of the gages.

You need to post pictures :)

Bridog
09-04-2010, 11:24 AM
The latest thing I've found is that the cabin fridge will not work on 120V.. works fine on DC.
Try resetting the GFI on the outlet inside the aft cabin. (Small red button)

Stray Cat
09-04-2010, 08:56 PM
Hi all,
Anyone ever try to access the starboard side windshield wiper motor? Mine is not moving and dash lights up so assume fuse is ok. There is a slanted panel above the mid salon area that seems like it would be behind the dashboard and possibly the wiper motor will be in there, but not sure how to remove it. There is nothing that indicates fasteners.

Thanks for any help.

Terri

Terri, did you check both of your EIM's? (electronic interface module) I think.....the one for the wipers is under the steering wheel behind the inspection door, if not, check the one in your engine room. Make sure a breaker didn't pop first.

villain style
09-06-2010, 01:06 PM
Hey everyone,

I'm thinking about replacing all my head plumbing. It appears to be the original plumbing lines and I'm hoping new lines might get rid of the "stink" that is evident. Has anyone done this and can comment on the level of effort involved? I already know its gonna be a crappy job.

JimFromMD
09-07-2010, 09:05 AM
Hey everyone,

I'm thinking about replacing all my head plumbing. It appears to be the original plumbing lines and I'm hoping new lines might get rid of the "stink" that is evident. Has anyone done this and can comment on the level of effort involved? I already know its gonna be a crappy job.


Hi,
What "Stink" are you talking about, something black-water related or just head plumbing in general? Is this something that is common for the 300 or you think more unique to your boat?

I just bought my boat about 3 weeks ago, and I think it had a tank of untreated fresh water in it for quite a while. When you turn the water on it smells rancid almost like someone got sick (enough to make you sick if not!). I've flushed 2 fresh tanks of water through the system, and its not nearly as bad, but still a hint of that smell. Also added water treatment that's supposed to keep the water fresh and also remove odors. Hoping this knocks it out. Back to the head "connection". The water in the head sink seems to smell the most funky of them all.

-James

jsierraalta
09-07-2010, 11:00 AM
I have the same issue on my new (used) Sundancer 300 2005. But it only stinks when I use the hot water. From what I've read so far in the heater manual there seems to be an expected chemical reaction...

I still need to try these procedures to see if it fixes it... Good luck, let us know how that goes.

I'm quoting the manual:
"FLUSHING TO REMOVE UNPLEASANT ODOR
A rotten egg odor (hydrogen sulfied) may be produced when the electro
galvanic action of the cladding material releases hydrogen from the ater.
if sulfur is present in the water supply the two will combine and produce
an unpleasant smell.
1. Turn off main water supply. Drain the water heater tank and reinstall
drain plug. Remove the pressure-temperature relief valve. Mix
solution of 4 parts white vinegar to two parts water. With a funnel,
carefully pour solution into tank.
2. Cycle water heater with the above solution, letting it run under normal
operation 4-5 times.
3. Remove the drain plug and thoroughly drain all water from the tank.
Flush the water heater to remove any sediment. You may flush the
tank with air pressure or fresh water. pressure may be applied
through either the inlet or outlet valves on the rear of the tank or
through the pressure-temperature relief valve coupling located on the
front of the unit.

TO FLUSH TANK WITH AIR PRESSURE:
Insert your air pressure through the pressure-temperature relief valve
coupling. With the drain valve open, the air pressure will force the
remaining water out of the unit.

TO FLUSH TANK WITH WATER PRESSURE:
Fresh water should be pumped into the tank with either the onboard
pump or external water pressure. Continue this flushing process for
approximately 5 minutes, allowing the fresh water to agitate the
stagnant water on the bottom of the tank and forcing the deposits
through the drain opening.
4. Replace drain plug and pressure-temperature relief valve.
5. Refill tank with fresh water that contains no sulphur.
The Atwood water heater is designed for use in a recreation vehicle. If
you use your vehicle frequently or for long periods of time, flushing the
water heater several times a year will prolong the life of the storage
tank."

You can download the manual from here: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093757%20PS%2011.19.07.pdf

JimFromMD
09-07-2010, 12:23 PM
Anyone in the group replaced their TV by the galley or done a digital/analog converter box retrofit? Just curious what brands or models fit nicely in that space.

Theresamarie11
09-07-2010, 08:35 PM
Terri, did you check both of your EIM's? (electronic interface module) I think.....the one for the wipers is under the steering wheel behind the inspection door, if not, check the one in your engine room. Make sure a breaker didn't pop first.

The breaker hasn't popped and the EIM's, I think, are just the control panel switches from the wiring diagram. I did find that the wiper motor can be gotten to from the light fixture right above the couch. I took the fixture out and there was the wiper motor. It's tight, but assume I can get it out through there if I need to.

Terri

Rick1503
09-07-2010, 08:43 PM
jrirvine, I noticed your 300DA is on a trailer. Do you have any hight issues with it when trailering?

Bel_Mar_Pointe
09-08-2010, 12:46 AM
Anyone in the group replaced their TV by the galley or done a digital/analog converter box retrofit? Just curious what brands or models fit nicely in that space.

I don't have a TV in the factory location but did do the D/A conversion. Pretty straight forward with the box but if you are replacing the TV with a digital set, you won't need it. There are some great posts here on TV retrofits for various models and D/A converters.

Modifications forum....

http://clubsearay.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=46&order=desc

"digital" search........

http://clubsearay.com/forum/search.php?searchid=2896528&pp=25

Bel_Mar_Pointe
09-08-2010, 12:54 AM
PS....I thought the easy way to find info was to search for "tv replacement" but forgot that the search engine won't recognize words less than four letters, as in "tv".

Theresamarie11
09-10-2010, 07:26 PM
Well, we sold our 260 and here's our new baby.

Bridog
09-10-2010, 07:46 PM
You have great taste.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
09-10-2010, 10:40 PM
You have great taste.

I would have to agree. Nice boat and welcome to the 300 club.

Ledg
09-13-2010, 06:45 PM
We are a newbe to this site, bought a 300 a month ago. 2003. We just love it. Just wondering were do you sleep?? V-berth or aft?? Does anyone make bedding to fit? We have been sleeping in the v-berth. Does the side cushions come off?? They feel like the are fixed permamently. Has anyone removed them. It sure would give you more sleeping room. Any suggestion would be welcomed.

Stray Cat
09-13-2010, 09:57 PM
The bolsters are bolted on from behind, and you're right, if removed would add some space, but would ugly up the interior. We sleep in the forward V berth so I can mess with the air conditioner controls during the night....another member here, Bridog, found a steal of a deal on a custom fit mattress, if you're going to keep the boat awhile and frequently sleep on the boat, it would be worth the investment to go the mattress route.

Bridog
09-14-2010, 09:03 AM
another member here, Bridog, found a steal of a deal on a custom fit mattress, if you're going to keep the boat awhile and frequently sleep on the boat, it would be worth the investment to go the mattress route.
One of the single best investments we made for our 300DA was the mattress. I'm not sure what they go for new (we got lucky and bought from a former 300DA owner here on CSR) but this company made ours so they already have the template. http://www.boatbeds.com/test_updates/test_index.html

mfilippa
09-14-2010, 01:20 PM
Well, we sold our 260 and here's our new baby.

Looks awesome! Congrats! :D

Do you have a grill installed? I see something in the second pic....

Her Diamond 2
09-14-2010, 01:31 PM
A few weeks ago I had the starboard engine stop working. The IAC (Idle Air Control) failed and I had both impellers changed at the same time. I was at the boat when they changed the IAC but not the impellers. It took the mechanic 20 minutes to change the IAC (plus 45 minutes to go back and get the gasket he forgot). The shop is less than 5 minutes from my boat. Total time to replace both impellers and the IAC was 7 hours so it I'm guessing 6 hours to change both impellers. This seems a little high given good access to the engines on this boat but I've never done it myself. How long should it take? (2004 Sundancer with twin 5.0L with B3)

Ididntdoit
09-14-2010, 01:43 PM
The impellers take me about an hour each start to finish

JimFromMD
09-14-2010, 01:56 PM
How long should it take? (2004 Sundancer with twin 5.0L with B3)


I just did this on my 2005 with 5.0MPIs and Bravo II drives. Took about an hour and a half to fumble my way through the first one (thanks to the impeller shredding into pieces and causing a high temp alarm)....

Second one went "easier" having learned from the first. Also didnt have to clean out the shredded bits of impeller since this one was a prevetative job! :)

Im not super mechanical, so I wouldn't call it "easy", but its doable.

Bottom Line
09-14-2010, 07:12 PM
A few weeks ago I had the starboard engine stop working. The IAC (Idle Air Control) failed and I had both impellers changed at the same time. I was at the boat when they changed the IAC but not the impellers. It took the mechanic 20 minutes to change the IAC (plus 45 minutes to go back and get the gasket he forgot). The shop is less than 5 minutes from my boat. Total time to replace both impellers and the IAC was 7 hours so it I'm guessing 6 hours to change both impellers. This seems a little high given good access to the engines on this boat but I've never done it myself. How long should it take? (2004 Sundancer with twin 5.0L with B3)

I personally have not changed my impellers, but have changed the IAC valve on both engines. It takes longer the "cut" through the many layers of black Mercruiser paint,to get the old IAC valve off, than it does to change the part.

Bottom Line
09-14-2010, 07:13 PM
One of the single best investments we made for our 300DA was the mattress. I'm not sure what they go for new (we got lucky and bought from a former 300DA owner here on CSR) but this company made ours so they already have the template. http://www.boatbeds.com/test_updates/test_index.html

Brian...sweet mattress. Do you and your wife sleep up on the v-berth? Did you have custom sheets made?

Bridog
09-14-2010, 10:22 PM
Brian...sweet mattress. Do you and your wife sleep up on the v-berth? Did you have custom sheets made?
Thanks Jeff. Yes we have no problem sleeping up there. The mattress makes a huge difference. The mattress pad, cover and custom comforter were "thrown in" from the previous owners wife. She made them herself. Very nice couple.

Bridog
09-14-2010, 10:24 PM
I just found out today that my "cool fuel" modules are both corroded so bad they need replacing. Anyone else have a problem with this?

JimFromMD
09-16-2010, 10:05 AM
I just found out today that my "cool fuel" modules are both corroded so bad they need replacing. Anyone else have a problem with this?


Saw a couple posts about them being an issue when I searched on here trying to figure out what they are. Is that different than the water separating fuel filters? The parts I saw for the filter unit and filter cores looked like a fuel pump. On our other boat the fuel filters looked more like an oil filter than a long cylinder.

Bridog
09-16-2010, 06:54 PM
Saw a couple posts about them being an issue when I searched on here trying to figure out what they are. Is that different than the water separating fuel filters? The parts I saw for the filter unit and filter cores looked like a fuel pump. On our other boat the fuel filters looked more like an oil filter than a long cylinder.
This might help... http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5277&highlight=heads

Bel_Mar_Pointe
09-18-2010, 04:59 PM
I purchased my 2005 in '07 and it came with an all chain anchor rode. I am curious if this is standard or an upgrade. I have never measured it but appears to be somewhere between 150'-200'. I like it for my area....what do you guys have?

Rxflyer
09-18-2010, 09:22 PM
My '05 has probably 30 ft of chain and the rest is rope. Prev owner bought it new, and it came from Northern Alabama.

Stray Cat
09-19-2010, 01:33 PM
I purchased my 2005 in '07 and it came with an all chain anchor rode. I am curious if this is standard or an upgrade. I have never measured it but appears to be somewhere between 150'-200'. I like it for my area....what do you guys have?

I remember it as an option (upgrade) when we ordered Stray Cat, standard was rope/chain rode in 2006. I wish they would've offered a washdown in the anchor locker, that would be nice to have.

Bridog
09-20-2010, 09:48 AM
WARNING TO ALL 300DA OWNERS! Do not go near your engine compartment hatch without a support or brace of some sort keeping the hatch open. My boat did not come equipped with any brace. Yesterday after peeking my head into the engine compartment, the entire hatch came down instantly! 10 seconds earlier and I would not be writing this today! Please be careful! I will start a new thread because I beleive this is so important. Brian

Theresamarie11
09-20-2010, 09:58 AM
Adding electrical circuits? Should I discuss here or in the electrical forum? I just added a heading sensor (KVH Azimuth) and put it right behind the air vent motor on the dash. But when I removed the cover for the fuse box I found a very user unfriendly circuit board and breakers...with no place to add any options (no terminals, no contact points at all). Am wondering what you all have done to add electrical circuits for options up on the dash.

I note that there are numerous accessory buttons (I think 3) on the soft button panels, but not sure if they are fused or how to contact off of them.

Thanks,
Terri

mfilippa
09-20-2010, 11:02 AM
WARNING TO ALL 300DA OWNERS! Do not go near your engine compartment hatch without a support or brace of some sort keeping the hatch open. My boat did not come equipped with any brace. Yesterday after peeking my head into the engine compartment, the entire hatch came down instantly! 10 seconds earlier and I would not be writing this today! Please be careful! I will start a new thread because I beleive this is so important. Brian

I'm interested in this one. I am not understanding and I'm always around the engine. Please do post more info on this. Thanks.

Stray Cat
09-20-2010, 11:38 PM
Brian, that sends chills up my neck...I've done it a number of times too and have wondered how well that ACME nut held on to the screw. My boat didn't come with a support either (I don't know any of them that did). In the short term, I'm going to measure a 2 x 4 so I can wedge it between the center of the drain channel to the hatch.

I have never read anything about a potential for a hatch crash in any of my manuals either....or proping up the hatch either.

Theresamarie11
09-21-2010, 11:32 AM
WARNING TO ALL 300DA OWNERS! Do not go near your engine compartment hatch without a support or brace of some sort keeping the hatch open. My boat did not come equipped with any brace. Yesterday after peeking my head into the engine compartment, the entire hatch came down instantly! 10 seconds earlier and I would not be writing this today! Please be careful! I will start a new thread because I beleive this is so important. Brian

Brian, can you post a picture or show what part failed to cause the hatch to come crashing down. I didn't think it was possible based on the design (I would have thought that at worst it would come down slowly if it failed).

Terri

Bridog
09-21-2010, 05:53 PM
Brian, can you post a picture or show what part failed to cause the hatch to come crashing down. I didn't think it was possible based on the design (I would have thought that at worst it would come down slowly if it failed).

TerriTerri, I'm sure it's the same as yours. Single actuator. Marine Max said it was a complete failure. They told me they never saw that happen before but why take a chance? Protect yourself and use a brace support as a backup when working, or even looking, in your engine compartment. I wish our model came with one but a 2x4 will suffice for now. Brian

Bottom Line
09-27-2010, 10:09 PM
Does anyone know if there are any other filters on the air conditioner/duct system besides the screen/mesh filter? The last several weekends, I have noticed a "weird odor". We leave the air off, when we leave the boat each weekend. The boat does not have any odors when we come back each weekend, but after running the air over night we notice the odor. I have checked the shower sump and it is fairly clean. I routinely dump bilge cleaner in the shower sump. I have wondered if the water in the a/c pan develops a funky smell, but I would think it would smell when we get to the boat for the weekend, since the boat has been locked up all week. Just looking for ideas.....

Stray Cat
09-28-2010, 08:09 AM
We clean the AC condensate pan once during the summer with bilge cleaner. The AC unit is fairly isolated so it may not emit much odor until you start the fan. I'm not aware of any filters in the duct work.

JimFromMD
09-28-2010, 12:34 PM
We clean the AC condensate pan once during the summer with bilge cleaner. The AC unit is fairly isolated so it may not emit much odor until you start the fan. I'm not aware of any filters in the duct work.


When I had my survey in August, the surveyor pointed out the mesh filter on the AC. He recommended installing a UV light bulb in the ducting on the outflow side of the AC unit to kill any mold or bacteria that blows past it on the way out to the vents in the boat. He said it was a cheap but easy fix. Doubt that would prevent any growth in the sump box or the drip tray though.

Bottom Line
09-28-2010, 07:24 PM
We clean the AC condensate pan once during the summer with bilge cleaner. The AC unit is fairly isolated so it may not emit much odor until you start the fan. I'm not aware of any filters in the duct work.

Jeff...do you dump in bilge cleaner, let it sit and then wet vac out?

I only notice the odor after the air has run for awhile...and you don't notice it while you in the cabin, but if you go to the cockpit for awhile and then back down into the cabin you smell the weird "funk."

Stray Cat
09-28-2010, 10:13 PM
Jeff...do you dump in bilge cleaner, let it sit and then wet vac out?

Here is what I do because we are so finicky...:grin:

We get this slimy substance in the condensate pan, it looks like and behaves like oil...if left in the pan it turns into a spooge and plugs up the condensate drain in the pan. I take a big syringe that I bought at a farm supply store, and try to suck up as much of it as I can (including the water that won't drain from the pan). Then I rinse the syringe and use it to shoot bilge cleaner under the compressor and other parts that are mounted to the pan. Then I let is set for an hour our so....then suck out what I can with a syringe. This summer I found these huge Q Tip type swabs in an auto parts store that work great to wipe out all of the spooge that I can't wipe out with a shop towel.

I don't know where this stuff comes from, maybe my AC unit is going to tank because it is loosing oil...but it has always done this, and it cools and heats like a champ, doesn't rattle or make a lot of noise (except the fan at various speeds between low and high.

You might want to check the carpet behind the door under the forward berth...maybe the condensate pan overflowed and your carpet go wet....give it a sniff, also, check your anchor locker...does it smell the same as your cabin after you turn on the air?

Bottom Line
09-28-2010, 10:35 PM
Here is what I do because we are so finicky...:grin:

We get this slimy substance in the condensate pan, it looks like and behaves like oil...if left in the pan it turns into a spooge and plugs up the condensate drain in the pan. I take a big syringe that I bought at a farm supply store, and try to suck up as much of it as I can (including the water that won't drain from the pan). Then I rinse the syringe and use it to shoot bilge cleaner under the compressor and other parts that are mounted to the pan. Then I let is set for an hour our so....then suck out what I can with a syringe. This summer I found these huge Q Tip type swabs in an auto parts store that work great to wipe out all of the spooge that I can't wipe out with a shop towel.

I don't know where this stuff comes from, maybe my AC unit is going to tank because it is loosing oil...but it has always done this, and it cools and heats like a champ, doesn't rattle or make a lot of noise (except the fan at various speeds between low and high.

You might want to check the carpet behind the door under the forward berth...maybe the condensate pan overflowed and your carpet go wet....give it a sniff, also, check your anchor locker...does it smell the same as your cabin after you turn on the air?

Jeff...thanks for the tip...the syringes sound like a good tool to use for this job. I have checked for wet carpet and have not found anything wet. I have not checked the anchor locker. I feel like it is air condtioner related since we do not run the air when we leave the boat, and there are not any smells when we return to the boat each weekend.

Stray Cat
09-28-2010, 10:42 PM
Yeah...you're right. Have you noticed if it comes out of a certain vent more strong than another?

Shady money
10-02-2010, 06:56 AM
My boat smells like a little girls powder room ...If you pour a small bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide into the a/c pan it will make the boat smell fresh it kills mold and mildew.

D-Sill-D
10-02-2010, 06:02 PM
I am a new member, looking to upgrade to a used 300 DA....I have read this thread, as well as others, from start to finish... the information is priceless and my hat is off to all of those who take the time to share their advice....

I have owned a 1988 Sea Ray since new and am still amazed at what a great boat and motor it is....

After searching for a Sundancer I am questioning, what may be obvious; the importance of freshwater cooling?

I am assuming,there is none, if operated in fresh water only...

however if a used boat has been operated in salt water, only, I am thinking that the opposite may be true...and that the engines may be seriously compromised...

accordingly, is hassle free (flip a switch) heating only possible with fresh water cooling????

Bottom Line
10-02-2010, 08:13 PM
My boat smells like a little girls powder room ...If you pour a small bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide into the a/c pan it will make the boat smell fresh it kills mold and mildew.

So the hydogen peroxide won't hurt anything?

At first I blamed the "smell" on my teenagers. Last weekend they didn't do with us to the boat...and I still had the smell....thats when I thought it must be the a/c....thanks for the idea.

Bridog
10-06-2010, 06:15 PM
Brian, that sends chills up my neck...I've done it a number of times too and have wondered how well that ACME nut held on to the screw. My boat didn't come with a support either (I don't know any of them that did). In the short term, I'm going to measure a 2 x 4 so I can wedge it between the center of the drain channel to the hatch.

I have never read anything about a potential for a hatch crash in any of my manuals either....or proping up the hatch either.I just had this installed after a very scary situation. I would highly recommend this if you dont have a safety pole/support of some means.

Rxflyer
10-06-2010, 10:02 PM
Bridog, what was your source for that safety pole ? It looks like a good solution.

Theresamarie11
10-12-2010, 07:43 AM
Hi 300 DA owners,
Has anyone tried to route wires from the main power panel in the cabin to the helm? If so, can you tell me how you did this? What panels you removed, how you accomplished the route.

I'd also like to know how to get from the TV cabinet to the main power panel as well.

Thanks,
Terri

Bridog
10-12-2010, 08:47 AM
Bridog, what was your source for that safety pole ? It looks like a good solution.Marine Max ordered it. My invoice part # is listed as.. MM2450362 "Support, SS SPCRUIS"

JimFromMD
10-18-2010, 07:37 AM
Hi All,
So when I got my boat, one of the few things missing was the dinette table. I have the Plan B layout with the couch instead of the two center facing seats. I thought I had a line on a replacement table, and it seemed to fit well in the space, but when I went to stow it under the forward birth, it wouldn't fit and extended about 2-3 inches past the door.

Could someone with a similar model to my 05 sundancer measure the table and/or maybe be willing to make me a template for it? At a minimum I need to get the dimensions so that I can order the right one from Sea Ray (they have the part number but not the size) or have one made if it is less expensive.

Bridog
10-18-2010, 12:53 PM
Could someone with a similar model to my 05 sundancer measure the table and/or maybe be willing to make me a template for it? At a minimum I need to get the dimensions so that I can order the right one from Sea Ray (they have the part number but not the size) or have one made if it is less expensive.Jim,
32.5" L X 17.5" W X 1.25" H. Regards, Brian

JimFromMD
10-18-2010, 01:01 PM
Brian,
Thanks. And that table fits in the shelf storage area under the v-berth correct? Does it matter how it is stored? Table face up (base down) or base up? Curve going to one side or the other?

I have to go back and look at the measurements of the table that the local SR dealer had and it didnt fit. Sounds similar in length, but perhaps its the width that was causing trouble, as I recall that being around 22". The table appeared to go all the way in but still hung out of the storage locker about 2-3"s.

Thanks again,
Jim



Jim,
32.5" L X 17.5" W X 1.25" H. Regards, Brian

Bridog
10-18-2010, 01:10 PM
Jim, Yes it stores under the forward V-berth. The table top slides in top up because there is a notch cut out where the support base slides into the bottom. It's a rectangular shaped wood table with rounded corners, not a curved table like I've seen on other SR's. Here's a similiar one. Good luck. Brian

villain style
10-23-2010, 05:32 PM
Calling mid 90's 300 da owners - - How do you winterize your AC system? Looking for ideas or gadgets used to make it easier or just to understand how you do it>...
Thanks -

Paulkarlsven
01-01-2011, 07:31 AM
I feel like the poor cousin here but we are going through the purchasing process of a 1993 300DA. It has 5.7L mercruisers with Alpha 1 Gen 2 legs. It has a Kohler 800 genset plus an inverter. The survey has given the hull a clean bill of helth but I also had a mechanical appraisal done which shows the outdrives as needing replacement. The engines checked out okay.

There are some minor issues as you would expect with a boat of this age but overall she is in good condition barring the outdrives.

When I see the prices you folk are paying for much newer 300DA's it makes me envious but here in Australia boats of this size seem to hold their value better.

At this stage we have given the selling agent the ultimatum that either the price is reduced to cover the outdrives replacement or we will walk away from this boat.

to take this 300DA at the current price with the amount of money needed to bring it back to where it should be mechanically woud make the cost too much for this age of boat imo.

Their is a 1992 370 Sundancer in a nearby marina that would be more cost effective to purchase if the seller of the 300DA will not reduce their selling price.

Theresamarie11
04-09-2011, 09:16 PM
Hey all, the weather is finally breaking here in Vermont. I figured out how to fix my cabin AC/DC fridge. I found it would only work on DC end of last season and opened up both power supplies and found both were outputting the correct voltage and then noticed that there was a diode on the DC board which was totally fried (open). It appears it was the sense circuit which sensed which supplies were active and then chooses to switch in the correct one. This diode was in the sense leg of the AC supply output (which is 40V DC).
Other things I'd like to finish this spring is to get my flat screen TV installed and fixing the cord on our RAY230 (cracking outer sheath). We had both bellows and one gimble ring replaced over the winter along with the trim senders and shift cables so hope to have all the running gear good to go.

Any ideas on the digital TV? We currently have the combo TV/VCR como in the port side cabinet next to the galley. Is this the place folks are putting their digital TVs or is there a better location so this space can be converted to storage?

Thanks,
Terri

kevin27
04-12-2011, 02:18 PM
I put a 22 in flat tv in the same place as the old one. Just unscrew the tray assy and turn over. You will see 4 screws holding the wood tray to the track assy. Remove the screws from wood tray and move it out about 2 inches and resecure. Now reinstall the assy in the cabnet and mount the tv to the wood tray. When done the tv will be outside the opening and the tray assy will still lock in the stowed position. Best of all, you will have storage room behind the tv.

Bridog
04-12-2011, 02:25 PM
I put a 22 in flat tv in the same place as the old one. Just unscrew the tray assy and turn over. You will see 4 screws holding the wood tray to the track assy. Remove the screws from wood tray and move it out about 2 inches and resecure. Now reinstall the assy in the cabnet and mount the tv to the wood tray. When done the tv will be outside the opening and the tray assy will still lock in the stowed position. Best of all, you will have storage room behind the tv.
Hey Kevin. Do you have a picture of your new install? Did you get a digital TV/DVD combo? Reception? Mine never worked with the the Glomax ant. Only at dockside with the cable. Thanks, Brian

capecodcruiser
04-12-2011, 05:08 PM
Kevin can you also let us know what TV you bought. This sounds like a great project. I would also appreciate some pictures. Thanks

kevin27
04-12-2011, 08:05 PM
I can have pics in about 1 1/2 weeks. The tv is a Visio and the Glomax ant works great. I have a dvd player from home I wasn't using that I'm going to install in the top of the cabnet.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
04-12-2011, 09:09 PM
Looking forward to some pics. Hey Brian, your Glomex should work just fine with either a digital TV or an analog set with a converter. I was shocked at how many stations I picked up once digital broadcasting came around.

Theresamarie11
04-18-2011, 03:55 PM
I put a 22 in flat tv in the same place as the old one. Just unscrew the tray assy and turn over. You will see 4 screws holding the wood tray to the track assy. Remove the screws from wood tray and move it out about 2 inches and resecure. Now reinstall the assy in the cabnet and mount the tv to the wood tray. When done the tv will be outside the opening and the tray assy will still lock in the stowed position. Best of all, you will have storage room behind the tv.

Kevin, thank you much for the reply. I'd love to see the picture of how you set up storage behind. I purchased a 19" visio (great picture) that runs off of 12V from a wall-wart. I originally had it in my 260 but thought it would be fine in the 300..given how close it is to the bed. Also glad to hear from others that the glomax works.

Terri

Theresamarie11
04-25-2011, 07:57 AM
Hey Kevin, hope you can post some pictures soon. I removed my old tube TV and VCR and put in my 19" visio, but having a hard time finding a mount that will mount it such that the TV will be flush on the outside of the cabinet and lets the TV shelf fully retract and lock. Any chance you can point me to what you used, or did you fabricate it?


Thanks,
Terri

kevin27
04-28-2011, 06:28 PM
Sorry for the delay. Here is the pics of the tv. The one shows a pic of the velcro used so the tv will not rub on the cabnet. The space at the top will be where the dvd player goes. The screw on the bottom shows how far I moved the tray out.http://www.flickr.com/photos/54079745@N02/

Theresamarie11
05-09-2011, 07:32 AM
Kevin, thanks much. I understand how you did it now.

Theresamarie11
05-09-2011, 08:37 AM
I just noticed the 300 has no hatch drain for the motor hatch. Isn't this unusual? So any water in the cockpit has to drain out the transom door. We have a trailer for our boat (just clears the traffic lights at 13'8"). So when we put the boat in the driveway to get it ready for summer, the nose points downhill and when it rains, water comes in the doorway, and fills up the channel around the hatch and then overflows, goes forward and leaks behind the area under the cockpit sink and then finds it's way under the shower and then floods the cabin.. Last fall after a couple of big rains the area under the floor up front filled with water. I think if the boat had a hatch drain, it would keep this from happening. Has anyone done this? Any reason why there is no drain? I had 2 on my 260 (one on each side).

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-09-2011, 11:22 AM
I believe your model is the same as my 2005, which has two drains at the transom that dump on to the swim step. Water collected in the hatch channel and surface water would drain this way. Of course if the slope of your deck is pointed downhill toward the bow, your screwed. No way to jack up your bow to avoid this?

Theresamarie11
05-09-2011, 02:53 PM
I believe your model is the same as my 2005, which has two drains at the transom that dump on to the swim step. Water collected in the hatch channel and surface water would drain this way. Of course if the slope of your deck is pointed downhill toward the bow, your screwed. No way to jack up your bow to avoid this?

Screwed is right.. my entire front, not sure what to call it, bilge area was full and the carpet was soaked. I can see the path the water takes but can't do anything about it but to cover the rear end in a way that keeps water from going through the transom cut area. I'll have to look tonight to see if there are floor drains that go out through the back onto the swim platform. I'm actually not sure of that. I think on my boat it's only through the transom cut where the door is. We jack up the front as much as we can but it's not enough to keep the water from going inside. Luckily, it's only for the short time we have it on the driveway.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-09-2011, 07:27 PM
Well that sucks.....only real solution is to keep water from getting in the cockpit. Once there, it's too late at that angle. If there is a drain further forward, I never encountered it.

Theresamarie11
05-10-2011, 07:35 AM
Watts-B-Shots, I did look last night and you're right about the drains from the hatch going out the back... I just never noticed before. I guess the water, because it's running in the other direction, just doesn't make any use of those when it's pointed down my driveway. I might have to make an EC, and put a drain in the front that just drains down to the bilge which would work fine I think because the bilge pump would just squirt it out when it's deep enough. I guess I'll have to look for some input on this to it's safety with the gen down there. I hate to put another through hole in the boat for another drain.

Theresamarie11
05-10-2011, 07:40 AM
For all of you 300DA owners of the 200x vintage. Has anyone found where the auxillary power lines come out? These are the power feeds that are controlled by the electronic button pads on the dash board. I am trying to install some new electronics and wanted to control them by the EIMs. The work on the dash of this baby is a bit of a nightmare given the only access is through the tiny door down below. I have to do most things by touch because I can't get both an arm and my head in there at the same time.
Also, there are fwd and aft accessory power controls. Does fwd refer to the cabin or cockpit? And does aft refer to the cockpit or bilge area? Does anyone know for sure? Just wondering where to look for each item.

Stray Cat
05-10-2011, 10:18 PM
The accessory 2 button on your right switch pad is actually part of the aft EIM in the ER. It is has a 15 amp breaker. If you have your owners manual, check out sheet 4 of the wiring diagram in section 6. The wire for that switch pad is identified as pin 21 with 527-14 on the wire, and the wire color is red / violet if your not color blind. The forward EIM harness is behind the storage / drink holder next to the helm seat. There is a fairly large wiring harness coupler behind there mounted to the cockpit soul of the boat. I saw it last year when I removed the storage holder to gain access to the throttle and shift cables.

Theresamarie11
05-11-2011, 10:28 AM
The accessory 2 button on your right switch pad is actually part of the aft EIM in the ER. It is has a 15 amp breaker. If you have your owners manual, check out sheet 4 of the wiring diagram in section 6. The wire for that switch pad is identified as pin 21 with 527-14 on the wire, and the wire color is red / violet if your not color blind. The forward EIM harness is behind the storage / drink holder next to the helm seat. There is a fairly large wiring harness coupler behind there mounted to the cockpit soul of the boat. I saw it last year when I removed the storage holder to gain access to the throttle and shift cables.

Jeff, thanks for information on where i might find the harness. I've been poking around under the dash and it's miserable trying to find anything in there... Luckily I am not color blind (smile).


Terri

Theresamarie11
05-11-2011, 11:13 AM
Thanks Jeff, sorry for my redundant posts, but I just figured out your note referencing EIM 'ER' refers the the EIM in the 'Engine room' and therefore it must imply (maybe) that the Aft accessories are for the cockpit and the fwd accessories are for the cabin. I hope to take a look this weekend.




Terri

kevin27
05-12-2011, 08:40 AM
New Raymarine C90W/sounder/4kw radar and cams. http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/IMG_20110427_093251.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/026.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/035.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat001.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat005.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat006.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat009.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat011.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat013-1.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat028.jpg

Bridog
05-12-2011, 08:46 AM
Very nice!

300SR
05-12-2011, 08:47 AM
New Raymarine C90W/sounder/4kw radar and cams. http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/IMG_20110427_093251.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/026.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/035.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat001.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat005.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat006.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat009.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat011.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat013-1.jpghttp://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat028.jpg

Boy that fits real good in that spot. Good luck with the new Ray stuff.

Theresamarie11
05-12-2011, 11:16 AM
Kevin, nice job! Question, unless my eyes are playing tricks, it looks like you needed to fill in a hole from the 'radio remote?' that used to be to the left of the old cutout. Did you do the glass work, I can't even tell it was there.. I have been contemplating taking out my old furuno 1722c 7" screen radar, plotter for something with a bigger screen but haven't even been able to remove my furuno yet because of the tight quarters.... That sure is a nice looking boat!


Terri

kevin27
05-12-2011, 12:10 PM
Thank you Terri. Yes I did have to fill the hole(well the fiberglass guy) and he did a very good job matching the color and texture of the dash. He charged $150, that seemed fair to me. After looking at all mfgs the Raymarine fit the best and I had a C120 on the last boat so it was an easy choice to go with Raymarine. Also the new Raymarine comes with a on boat 3 year warranty after FLIR took over the company. Thank you for the nice words its been a lot money and hard work.

andy k
05-12-2011, 05:13 PM
The cams are a cool feature to have especially in the engine compartment. It is amazing how much technology has changed when it comes to navigation.

I am starting to do research for my next boat which I plan to purchase in a few years. I am considering the 300 sundancer. I boat on the great lakes and I take a lot of trips where we will cruise up to 150 miles in a day. I prefer the simplicity of the V drives but appreciate the performance and fuel economy of the stern drives, maintenance is about the same since I am in clean freshwater and our season is only 6 months. I plan to trailer the next boat so again stern drives would be preferred for the trailer. I have a few questions that some of you could answer; Is it possible to install a auto pilot on the 300 sundancer? Which engine package is the most economical for the 300? How does the boat handle in rough water? (not uncommon for us to plow though 5-6ft waves) How does the boat handle in tight areas for when we are docking?

kevin27
05-12-2011, 06:49 PM
Yes an autopilot can be installed. Looks like Simrad ap24 would be best. Given how you want to use the boat the 300 DA should be on you short list. I have the 5.0L mpi engs. I wanted the bigger engs but dealer talked me out of them for fuel econ. Sounds like you would use your boat like me and the 5.0L mpi is perfect. On the sea trial we had little over 1/2 fuel, 2/3 water, and 6 adults, came on plane with no problem and 45mph at wot. This boat will cruise around 29mph at 3400rpm and 34.5mph at 4000rpm with full fuel and water and 2 adults. I was in about 4 foot waves/sea in the Tampa Bay back in March and it did better than I expected but could only run 19mph and burned lots of fuel.

Stray Cat
05-12-2011, 08:34 PM
Thanks Jeff, sorry for my redundant posts, but I just figured out your note referencing EIM 'ER' refers the the EIM in the 'Engine room' and therefore it must imply (maybe) that the Aft accessories are for the cockpit and the fwd accessories are for the cabin. I hope to take a look this weekend.
Terri

Well, actually the cabin breakers and harness are part of the DC panel in the cabin. I don't believe either EIM feed anything in the cabin...but I could be wrong.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc67/straycat01/PagesfromSeaRay300DAOwnersManual.jpg

Stray Cat
05-12-2011, 08:51 PM
Kevin, your Ray install looks wonderful! I was always curious about a camera in the ER. If you don't mind, I have a couple of questions... In the view on your Ray's screen of the ER, was that with the hatch closed? Is the camera ignition protected? How many cameras would the system support?

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-13-2011, 12:30 AM
Very nice....is the ER camera stationary or can you control the position? Looks like a stationary mount but I had to ask. Also, does the C90 sit flush or does it stick out a little further at the bottom due to the trapezoidal shaped recess? Was a spacer needed? Just gathering info for my own upgrade. Once again, great work Kevin.

Oh....I know that EIM harness behind the recess at the helm well. Shortly after I got the boat my hatch would intermittently lose power. Took me about a week to find the damn harness and a sloppy connection. Those intermittent problems are the worst.....always working when you go to troubleshoot.

Theresamarie11
05-13-2011, 08:10 AM
Kevin, I notice you have the same original electronics as I (Ray 230 and raytheon st60). How is your ray 230 cord holding up? I recently did a self repair on mine by using this stuff called plasi-dip. You have to plan (i removed my hand station to do it) and it makes a mess, but it's created a totally new sheath around the old rotting coiled cord. I cleaned mine well with spray nine first, but in general it worked well. I would love to do what you did but need to find a home for the radio remote. The place you put yours is where I have a remote light control. I guess I could move everything around if I found a good fiberglass guy like you did. Seems like the guy you found just came to your boat yard. I need to find folks that do that kind of thing around where i am. We have a trailer but would rather not haul it to a fiberglasser. We only move it twice a year (once to put it in, once to take it out). At 13'8" it's stressful moving the boat and going under all of the road crossing wires here in Vt..we get pretty darn close.

kevin27
05-13-2011, 11:19 AM
The cams are in a fixed position and they work in the dark but go black and white. The hatch is closed in the pic but the ER lights were on. There was no spacer needed for the display. It sits flush enough you don't need one. As for the radio my cord is junk too. Call Raymarine and they will replace the cord for $150.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-13-2011, 03:12 PM
Thanks for the reply and enjoy your upgrades? Radar.....very envious.

kevin27
05-13-2011, 03:56 PM
Brain I would love to boat in your area for a summer. I can imagen how good it is on clear days with Rainier in the background. Do you have lots of foggy days where radar would be needed?

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-13-2011, 05:44 PM
Kevin, yes...it is beautiful here and when the weathers nice, damn near perfect. In the Puget Sound, fog is not a big issue but you will find it at times. Now when you cross the Straight of Juan De Fuca to the San Juan Islands or into Canada, the fog can sneak up you pretty quick. It's one of those situations were I don't need it often, but wish I had it when I do.

kevin27
05-13-2011, 07:52 PM
Do you guys think it would be ok to post some pics in the general thread for those that don't look at this thread as it is for the 300DA?

Stray Cat
05-13-2011, 08:13 PM
I say go ahead, spread the knowledge.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-13-2011, 11:29 PM
I say make a new post. You will only get jumped on if you post the same post in multiple threads at the same time with the same title. Since this doesn't fall under that scenario, you're good to go.

Theresamarie11
05-18-2011, 06:45 PM
Kevin, Brian, Jeff, other guys who've taken off the panel along side the helm, can you tell me how you take the padded panel off which covers the top screw holes for the access cover? I can see some of those plastic push-in clips and I can pull some off, but up front along side the shifters it isn't budging at all and I'm afraid I'm going to break it because it's not very wide there (maybe 4"). I also noticed that I can start to pull off the rear portion but right around the middle (just forward of the arch) there is a bolt that needs to be taken off from the inside somehow. And I'm pretty sure there is no way to take off the plastic access panel without removing the padded trim first.

Any help is highly appreciated. I'm kind of at a standstill now.

Thanks,

Stray Cat
05-18-2011, 09:16 PM
Terri, on my boat, behind each one of those circular plastic covers was a screw that held it in place. They were phillips head screws that were below the padding of the panel. I believe I had a plastic cover near the shifters, and I know I had one near the rear facing bench seat. The bolt you refer to with the nut on the inside for me was impossible to reach without a double-jointed arm through the access cover by the seat. I suspect at the factory the helm seat is not in place and you could bend your arm to reach it with a ratchet wrench...I was not about to remove my helm seat, so I used a hacksaw and ever so carefully sawed the bolt off. There are bolts that held my panel on, one accessable, the other not-so-much. There are plenty of fastners to hold the panel in place if you have to result to drastic means with the bolt!

Theresamarie11
05-18-2011, 09:31 PM
Terri, on my boat, behind each one of those circular plastic covers was a screw that held it in place. They were phillips head screws that were below the padding of the panel. I believe I had a plastic cover near the shifters, and I know I had one near the rear facing bench seat. The bolt you refer to with the nut on the inside for me was impossible to reach without a double-jointed arm through the access cover by the seat. I suspect at the factory the helm seat is not in place and you could bend your arm to reach it with a ratchet wrench...I was not about to remove my helm seat, so I used a hacksaw and ever so carefully sawed the bolt off. There are bolts that held my panel on, one accessable, the other not-so-much. There are plenty of fastners to hold the panel in place if you have to result to drastic means with the bolt!


Jeff, thanks much. There is one circular cover just forward of the arch (with 4 screws holding on) but I do need to remove the helm seat to make it usable. So I may remove the seat. It doesn't look that bad. But I am still a bit confused on the most forward connection because even from that access cover, the reach is longer than any normal persons arm. Thanks for confirming I probably need to remove that circular cover. I'll see where that leads me.

I am going to need to find some more of those "christmas tree' connectors", did you ever purchase any? I am going to try a local parts store if my sea ray dealer doesn't come through.

Thanks again,

Stray Cat
05-18-2011, 09:48 PM
I used a short phillips hex screw driver bit, with the proper 1/4 inch socket and rachet, and a right angle screw driver with a lot of determination to get mine off. A proper size ratchet wrench with correct hex bit would be the perfect tool to take out the access panel screws. The access to the screws that hold my seat on would be a challenge of their own. Under that circular cover is a screw (like a sheet metal screw) The cover is used to hide the puncture hole when they punch the screw into the fiberglass. If you're careful, you can pry them off without tearing the vinyl. I was able to reuse my Christmas tree connectors.

Theresamarie11
05-18-2011, 10:11 PM
I used a short phillips hex screw driver bit, with the proper 1/4 inch socket and rachet, and a right angle screw driver with a lot of determination to get mine off. A proper size ratchet wrench with correct hex bit would be the perfect tool to take out the access panel screws. The access to the screws that hold my seat on would be a challenge of their own. Under that circular cover is a screw (like a sheet metal screw) The cover is used to hide the puncture hole when they punch the screw into the fiberglass. If you're careful, you can pry them off without tearing the vinyl. I was able to reuse my Christmas tree connectors.

Jeff, thanks again. I've been staring at Kevin's photos of his raymarine installation and I think I might see the other key to my issue. One is the round access hatch next to the seat, but there's also a speaker down in front that looks removed in Kevin's photos as well, so maybe that's how the upper attachment is gotten to.
It seems never ending and can't wait to actually do some boating this year :)


Terri

kevin27
05-19-2011, 08:13 AM
Here are more pics. http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/033.jpgThe helm seat removed to get at the nuts for panel.http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/029.jpgTilted element transducer checked for fit.http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat002.jpgSide view.http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/thehook_99/boat044-1.jpgMe after it was all finished.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-19-2011, 08:45 AM
Terri....I think I have a link to the Christmas tree connectors at home. I had to replace mine after the second time I remove the starboard panel. I'll let you know this evening.....

Theresamarie11
05-19-2011, 09:20 PM
Kevin, that's the pic i needed to see. Between you and Jeff and Brian I figured out how to remove the panels and it was the round access cover and the speaker that needed to be removed for access. I was surprised at what I found. There was no connectors in there, per se, but just 3 huge tubes of wires wrapped in that corregated plastic wire armour. I tried to find the right wires but it wasn't worth the time. I just added another set of wires and fuse holders off of the power supply coming into the EIM under the dash. while trying to figure out which wire was the accessory-1 wire, I'd hit the accessory button on the dash while piercing a wire of the right color (unfortunately many power wires are the same color). I noticed in this process that when hitting the accessory-1 button (below the water pump button which does nothing on the 300da), there is no 'relay click'. In fact when trying accessory 1, fwd accessory and aft accessory, only the fwd accessory has a click coming from the EIM/fuse/relay box. So am wondering if none of those wires was even being activated. And unfortunately, the FWD accessory in the wiring diagram shows it's on pin 1 of the EIM connector, with no wire at all. I finally decided I was spending too much time and really needed to get to other things so we can get in the water. Now I need some of the two sided christmas trees. My local body shop only had the one sided trees. Brian, thanks for letting me know your source for the trees.

JimFromMD
05-23-2011, 02:48 PM
Hi all,
Two things. Getting a Garmin 740s and Garmin GMR18HD RADAR installed on Weds. Will post pictures of how that comes out.

Second thing is a question. Does anyone know how the blower vent covers on the aft port and starbord gunwhale are secured? I was waxing this weekend and noticed that both are loose. Did not have an opportunity to investigate too far, but I did not see any bolts holding them on. Are they just held in place with white slilcon/caulking around the perimeter and the three middle supports along the bottom? Hoping to gather whatever is required to secure them over this week and fix it up over the weekend.

Thanks in advance, and Kevin, nice install on the C90w!

-James

Theresamarie11
05-23-2011, 06:12 PM
Brian, I see your boat is for sale, what's next? We've had the same size last 3 boats... 22', 260DA, 300DA. I'm wondering what my next boat is going to be?

(smile)

Theresamarie11
05-23-2011, 07:06 PM
Brian, I looked at your boat ad (always looking for ideas on improvements) and notice you have a faucet for your cockpit sink. I really hate the sprayer and will be changing mine to a faucet. Did you change it yourself and if so, can you tell me which maker/model this is?

Thanks much,

Bottom Line
05-23-2011, 08:00 PM
Kevin...great job!! The pics look great.

Bridog
05-24-2011, 08:31 AM
Brian, I looked at your boat ad (always looking for ideas on improvements) and notice you have a faucet for your cockpit sink. I really hate the sprayer and will be changing mine to a faucet. Did you change it yourself and if so, can you tell me which maker/model this is?

Thanks much,The faucet came with the boat. I think they changed it around 2005? A SR dealer should be able to order one for you. Oh and "our" next boat will be a 360DA like Jeff's ;)

Bridog
05-24-2011, 08:35 AM
Question for you all....has anyone replaced the steps leading down into the cabin with the newer style wood steps that SR currently uses on it's DA's?

kevin27
05-24-2011, 11:26 AM
That's something to look into. I like the wood steps.

Theresamarie11
05-24-2011, 07:38 PM
The faucet came with the boat. I think they changed it around 2005? A SR dealer should be able to order one for you. Oh and "our" next boat will be a 360DA like Jeff's ;)

Brian, a 360DA, that's great, something to look forward too... lets see, you had the 300DA for what, 3-4 years.. so I need to start looking in maybe 3 years :)
Thanks for the answer on the faucet... I checked the parts list and it didn't list the maker so I'll probably look for aftermarket first.


Terri

capecodcruiser
05-24-2011, 08:46 PM
Brian, I looked at your boat ad (always looking for ideas on improvements) and notice you have a faucet for your cockpit sink. I really hate the sprayer and will be changing mine to a faucet. Did you change it yourself and if so, can you tell me which maker/model this is?

Thanks much,
This is the one I just put on my 310. Took the sink out, unscrewed the sprayer, got an adapter to go from the existing plumbing to the new faucet, done. Very easy. The sink is just siliconed in, a putty knife should cut it right out. Good luck
http://www.wmjmarine.com/shu1330209cp.html

Stray Cat
05-24-2011, 09:11 PM
Brian, a 360DA, that's great, something to look forward too... lets see, you had the 300DA for what, 3-4 years.. so I need to start looking in maybe 3 years :)
Thanks for the answer on the faucet... I checked the parts list and it didn't list the maker so I'll probably look for aftermarket first.
Terri

Teri, take a look at this website. http://www.itc-marine.com/kitchen.html model number 97260CP is the fold down faucett that is on my boat.

Bottom Line
05-24-2011, 10:45 PM
I believe someone with a 260DA replaced their sprayer with a faucet, and they found it at Greatlakesskipper.com. Good luck. I didn't really like the sprayer on our 300DA.

Bridog
05-24-2011, 11:21 PM
Teri, take a look at this website. http://www.itc-marine.com/kitchen.html model number 97260CP is the fold down faucett that is on my boat. Yes. That's the one!

Theresamarie11
05-25-2011, 09:49 AM
Guys, as always thank you for the help. This site is great because there is no substitute for experience. I hope after I own this one for a while I can contribute as much as I've received.

Bel_Mar_Pointe
05-29-2011, 02:09 PM
Terri....I think I have a link to the Christmas tree connectors at home. I had to replace mine after the second time I remove the starboard panel. I'll let you know this evening.....

A little late but here's the link....

http://www.wclco.com/Plastic_Components/Plastic_Fasteners.php