The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

On the helm windlass control how does it operate? The rocker switch appears to be two position, then toggle is up/down?
 
Don Hardison said:
On the helm windlass control how does it operate? The rocker switch appears to be two position, then toggle is up/down?
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The toggle switch would be Anchor up - Anchor down. There may also be a master on/off switch. No to many boats had the factory windlass so it is possible it is aftermarket. If that's the case you can always hope it was wired right. Do you have foot switches on the bow? They would more than likely be wired into the same contactor (relay) that the helm switch is.

If these do not operate the windlass then look for the master on/off switch. If it is not at the helm then look in the engine compartment near to the batteries.

-Kevin
 
Hi guys, I’m in the process of purchasing a 2001 Sundancer 260. It has 780 hours on it (5.7 Mercruiser) and is visually in amazing shape for its age. The fiberglass and gel coat is in great shape, the vinyl looks bright and new with no tears, the interior is in great shape, and everything appears to be well maintained and in excellent condition. The engine bay is spotless as well. I am in the process of scheduling a sea trial and survey within the next two weeks, and if everything checks out, I will be a first time boat owner. Can’t wait.

That said, I wanted to reach out to the experts here and see if you guys had any recommendations or tips or advice on any areas I should be focused before purchasing, during the sea trial, or during the survey (reminder, 780 hours). I’ve read the majority of this thread, but wanted to ask anyways. I’m in the process of getting the full maintenance records, but the exhaust manifolds and risers were replaced this past season.

Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks
 
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Hotel Guy said:
Hi guys, I’m in the process of purchasing a 2001 Sundancer 260. It has 780 hours on it (5.7 Mercruiser) and is visually in amazing shape for its age. The fiberglass and gel coat is in great shape, the vinyl looks bright and new with no tears, the interior is in great shape, and everything appears to be well maintained and in excellent condition. The engine bay is spotless as well. I am in the process of scheduling a sea trial and survey within the next two weeks, and if everything checks out, I will be a first time boat owner. Can’t wait.

That said, I wanted to reach out to the experts here and see if you guys had any recommendations or tips or advice on any areas I should be focused before purchasing, during the sea trial, or during the survey (reminder, 780 hours). I’ve read the majority of this thread, but wanted to ask anyways. I’m in the process of getting the full maintenance records, but the exhaust manifolds and risers were replaced this past season.

Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks
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Just pick a good surveyor and they will walk you through everything. Biggest thing for me would be to check the manifolds age/condition especially in salt and to look for corrosion if you have Bravo 3s. Keep in mind the engine inspection is separate from the survey.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
I was thinking about upgrading because I wanted Bluetooth but had too many other project going on in the boat so I found a quick fix for the Bluetooth upgrade.

I added the TranzIt Blue (for android). It only required me pulling the head unit and installed inline with the antenna. I powered the unit from the stereo 12v at the circuit panel below and grounded to the block. Now all my music comes from my tablet or phone. The unit is controlled on/off from the app and the FM stereo channel can be selected from there too.

I like that when you turn on the Bluetooth it automatically disconnects the antenna signal for a clean input. Now I can keep my tablet at the helm or in the cabin, I have my FM channel selected and in my presets and all the music I want.

-Kevin
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Hey can you tell me how you pulled the head unit out?

Don
 
Don Hardison said:
Hey can you tell me how you pulled the head unit out?

Don
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The Clarion unit has two silver cover panels on the left and the right. Pop those off carefully and the mounting screws are behind them. The unit will then slide out. For better access to items behind it you may need to remove the DC panel for access. Just be careful of the AC power nearby.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
The Clarion unit has two silver cover panels on the left and the right. Pop those off carefully and the mounting screws are behind them. The unit will then slide out. For better access to items behind it you may need to remove the DC panel for access. Just be careful of the AC power nearby.

-Kevin
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Thank you
 
Definitely take a close look at the B3 outdrive. Make sure you keep an eye on this (via haul out, not from swim step) and replace anodes frequently if needed. You may want to paint it as well with primecon/trilux 33. I'm doing this now after mistakes I made last season. You'll love the boat though. Congratulations!
 
FishOn said:
Was told this was a more appropriate place to post my questions about b4 vs b2 on a 200 260DA.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...ad-comments-questions-and-answers.414/page-76
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Questions about drives, and such, have nothing to do with the boat. I recommended this thread to you because the info in this thread is specific to the model you have. It makes for good reading.

About the drive comparison - google will return lot's of info on that - as well as searching this forum for previous threads on the subject. But it's OK to talk about that stuff in this thread, as well.
 
That was supposed to read b3 vs b2. It was spell corrected for some reason. I was hoping to find someone on here that may have converted and would share their experiences in regards to performance on this specific model as well as corrosion issues in the salt that may have been resolved. I did search for quite a while and didn't find anything, surprisingly.
 
My current anchor is a 13# Danforth which is too light. Parts list shows original equipment was a 25# plow. Thinking of replacing my anchor with a 22# Delta. Any advice? What do you have? Boating area is coastal LI Sound.
 
PatrickM said:
My current anchor is a 13# Danforth which is too light. Parts list shows original equipment was a 25# plow. Thinking of replacing my anchor with a 22# Delta. Any advice? What do you have? Boating area is coastal LI Sound.
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If you have a true Danforth anchor of that weight and it's not working for you, you're likely just not setting it properly. That anchor would be suited for a larger boat than yours. I'll assume you have some chain, which helps - but successful anchoring can be done with just rope. You just have to make sure you are using enough scope - using a plow anchor would require the same technique. Read up on that - 3:1 to 5:1 for normal conditions.

However, yes, a 22# Delta plow will be more than sufficient.

"The best anchor" is a very opinion-based question. There is no one, best answer. I'd say save your money and just work on anchoring the proper way.
 
FishOn said:
That was supposed to read b3 vs b2. It was spell corrected for some reason. I was hoping to find someone on here that may have converted and would share their experiences in regards to performance on this specific model as well as corrosion issues in the salt that may have been resolved. I did search for quite a while and didn't find anything, surprisingly.
Click to expand...
Personally, I'm not aware of anyone that converted to a B2 from B3 and I've seen a lot of things over the years. Not that I've seen everything, of course - but you're taking a step backwards.

As I mentioned in your other thread about your corrosion, you've really only got paint lifting with VERY minor corrosion at this point. From the picture you had posted, nothing worries me about the condition. Properly painting your drive will, of course, be a step in this process. But you need to figure out WHY that happened in the first place - it's either from neglect, improper anodes, failing mercathode or a hot dock. If you take care of those things, and just do some regular, preventative maintenance, the B3 will be just fine. There are thousands and thousands of them out there doing very well.

Pull your props off and check there, as well.

Where are you located?
 
Lazy Daze said:
If you have a true Danforth anchor of that weight and it's not working for you, you're likely just not setting it properly. That anchor would be suited for a larger boat than yours. I'll assume you have some chain, which helps - but successful anchoring can be done with just rope. You just have to make sure you are using enough scope - using a plow anchor would require the same technique. Read up on that - 3:1 to 5:1 for normal conditions.

However, yes, a 22# Delta plow will be more than sufficient.

"The best anchor" is a very opinion-based question. There is no one, best answer. I'd say save your money and just work on anchoring the proper way.
Click to expand...

Thanks, agree with all the above.
 
I posted this on another thread but I thought I should repost here. I replaced my quack horn with a Stebel 11690019 - Nautilus Compact Mini Air Horn Black. About $27. You can search on Amazon for it. So far I highly recommend it. No more quack. A real air horn sound.
 
eyebalz said:
I posted this on another thread but I thought I should repost here. I replaced my quack horn with a Stebel 11690019 - Nautilus Compact Mini Air Horn Black. About $27. You can search on Amazon for it. So far I highly recommend it. No more quack. A real air horn sound.
Click to expand...
A lot of motorcyclist use their horns. Did you have any difficulty mounting it?
 
Bravo3 question, last Nov 2018, gear oil drained and changed in leg, leg and gear oil reservoir filled and showing at full mark, just pulled boat out of dry winter storage.
NO oil what so ever showing in remote reservoir.
Could not find any oil in bilge or on outer surface of leg.. ???
Any ideas as to how or where oil can go?? this really has me worried, it will be a week or two before the lake launch.
 
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