2007 44 Sea Ray Sedan Bridge Zinc Anodes size?

Matt DiMauro

Member
Apr 21, 2019
32
East Greenwich Bay, Rhode Island
Boat Info
44 Sedan Bridge 2007
Engines
Cummins QSC 500
Does anyone know what size zincs I need for my 44 sedan bridge? looking to replace all my zinc anodes on the hull. How many are there usually and where are they located? Also are there any on my bow thruster?
 
My thruster did not have one and only one on the hull-center of the transom. I also have them on my trim tabs.

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I do not remember the size or number right off.....

Bennett
 
Hull anode is a Camp B-12. Trim tabs use 2ea R-4 rudder anodes, one on each tab. There are no anodes on the shafts or rudders.

You are on your own on the bow thruster; I have no idea what thruster you have.

You don't tell us your location so these part numbers may be totally incorrect if your boat is in not in saltwater.
 
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You may have an anode on your thruster. I have a vetus and there is an anode on the prop shaft housing. Check your owners manual or post here with the brand and size of your thruster and someone will let you know. Or call the manufacturer
 
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I have a 2007 Onan 9kw diesel generator and wasn't sure where the zinc pencil is located on it if there even is one. If anyone can provide me with info on the location and size of it that'd be awesome!
 
That is the same gen I have. It is in the port rear corner in the round heat exchanger. There is a hole with a plug in it in the gen sound shield. Pull the plug out, and you can get a socket on it with an extension. Mine was easy to get out as anodes go...

#8 below

EE682C92-72EB-4F8F-8858-FA84AD3180A2.jpeg


Bennett
 
Where do you usually get your replacement zinc pen for the Onan? Part# 130-4434
I get all my pencil zincs, shaft and tab annodes from Boatzincs.com I usually just buy the annodes with out the brass plug. I'm in Brackish water so I use aluminum.
 
Sea Ray and their naval engineers/naval electricians determined years ago that their boats do not benefit from shaft zincs. They have not been installed on new boats for at least the last 20 years and they are not required on your boat.
 
Sea Ray and their naval engineers/naval electricians determined years ago that their boats do not benefit from shaft zincs. They have not been installed on new boats for at least the last 20 years and they are not required on your boat.

This is true! Assuming that your engines are properly grounded together. Out of the factory, they're engineered this way, they're perfect, 100%. The heavy lifting on corrosion control is done by that hull plate.

Folks with new Sea Rays tend to forgo shaft anodes. But it is exceedingly common for folks with boats they didn't buy new to opt for shaft anodes on their Sea Ray as a line of localized defense against electrical gremlins (frayed wires, improper installation of equipment at some point, etc) that might ultimately attack the prop.

PS: that hull plate is a B-12/ZC-406 on most Sea Rays. But on bigger boats - like the one posted by bbwhitejr there - it is a Z24B.
 
Boatzincs - I don't see aluminum pencil zincs on your site (E2 and E3). Will there be any issue changing my external zincs to aluminum for brackish water while still using zinc in the engine?
 
Boatzincs - I don't see aluminum pencil zincs on your site (E2 and E3). Will there be any issue changing my external zincs to aluminum for brackish water while still using zinc in the engine?

Doing exactly that - using aluminum for everything you can but zinc in the engine - will represent your best bet. The anodes in your engine are isolated from all other anodes, so there's no risk of you mixing alloys. And of course, aluminum is ideal for brackish water so you are doing the right thing.

(We don't offer aluminum pencil anodes at this time because they have a few potential disadvantages. They're an interesting part of this industry right now and we will stock them when we feel we can sell them and reliably stand by them).
 
Doing exactly that - using aluminum for everything you can but zinc in the engine - will represent your best bet. The anodes in your engine are isolated from all other anodes, so there's no risk of you mixing alloys. And of course, aluminum is ideal for brackish water so you are doing the right thing.

(We don't offer aluminum pencil anodes at this time because they have a few potential disadvantages. They're an interesting part of this industry right now and we will stock them when we feel we can sell them and reliably stand by them).
Welcome aboard.
 
My Vetus bow thruster has a Zinc behind the plastic prop. I buy them from BoatZincs along with the hull zinc and rudder zincs Frank mentioned. That’s all that I have on the outside of the boat.
I also get my engine zinc kits and pencil zincs from them. They’re prices are good and a full order let’s me take advantage of free shipping.
FYI: In a conversation with Bennett this winter they advised me that the tabs only need a rudder zinc on the top of the tab and none on the bottom. They said installing a zinc on the bottom serves no purpose and only creates drag. I’m following their directions this year and only installed one half of the rudder zinc on each tab and put them on the tops of them. I’ll see how it goes.
 
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When installing the engine zincs to i need to add Teflon tape or anything to the threading of the bolt before i put it back in or are the all sealed and okay to use without that ?

You can if you'd like, Matt but it is not necessary. They're sealed and ready to go (whether you buy them from us or anyone else).
 
When installing the engine zincs to i need to add Teflon tape or anything to the threading of the bolt before i put it back in or are the all sealed and okay to use without that ?

I was always taught not to put any sealing tape on them as they need to make good contact-metal to metal-for them to do their job. I never have and have never had a leak.

Bennett
 

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