Official 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 Thread

I just did a whole rebuild on the shower drain. Sea ray definetly did not have plumbers on staff back then. The thing was loaded with silicone which slowed down the flow and also leaked.

My suggestion, take the whole thing apart and do it right. I ordered the fitting below which replaces the metal elbow. Get some plumbers putty and you’ll be good. Two sets of channel locks are needed, there is a nut that threads up against the pan and then the same size nut that holds the metal tailpiece elbow on. Go slow and the silicone will break free.

Valterra Black T01-0091VP Swivel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MTREC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share



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Thank you so much !!!! I'm going to do exactly that this weekend
 
I hate to sound stupid, but I am not sure. We'll do that too

Yes please check to make sure everything is flowing into and out of the box properly.

The box should have a lid on top...... if it's full of water (and there's water outside the box as well) your bilge pump inside the box has malfunctioned/clogged. It gets pretty nasty so from time to time it's good to give the box a good cleaning.

It should look similar to this. The little mesh screen you see catches hair and other debris that might go down the shower drain and once this is clogged the flow can be reduced. Plus the float switch and bilge pump could be slimed up. I use some Spray 9 and a rag once in a while and give the box a good cleaning..... the screen can be removed and use a hose to spray all the crap off of it.

If you have Air Conditioning the condensate also drains into this little sump.

To be on the safe side I would wear some rubber gloves when cleaning out this box.
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Ok gang. I need some help.... when you turn the ignition on the fuel pump is supposed to run for two seconds mine does not I can put power directly to the fuel pump and it works fine so I am trying to locate the fuel pump fuse?

Thank You

Todd
 
Mercuiser 5.0 EFI Sea Water Hose Leak:
Just got back from a week-long cruise to the San Juan Islands in WA state, and thought I would share the only issue we had, since it affects other owners. Our first day was a 107 mile run from Tacoma to our San Juan Islands. After warming up the engines, I popped the engine hatch and saw no issues. Headed out. After we were docked at the end of the long run, I popped the engine hatch to discover salt deposits all over the engine bay. Salty, crusty mess!
The culprit was the sea water hose running between the heat exchanger and the Cool Fuel Module. The cause was: the hose is installed against the flange of the power steering pump, prolonged engine vibration wore a groove that eventually went through the hose. I looked at the other engine and sure enough, there was a similar groove being etched on the other engine.
For a short term fix, I pulled the old hose and wrapped it with Rescue Tape, and reinstalled until a replacement hose would show up. Hose can be changed on the water. Wasn't perfect but it worked okay for cruising the Islands for a couple of days. I always carry Corrosion Block spray with me and hit the alternator and other engine surfaces at the end of every run until the new hose could be installed.
The new hose showed up and was installed before our return trip home on Saturday; I am going to be adding tape padding to the hose near the power steering pump to prevent this.

Happy cruising!
Michael
 
The new hose showed up and was installed before our return trip home on Saturday; I am going to be adding tape padding to the hose near the power steering pump to prevent this.

Happy cruising!
Michael

I'd take the old hose and cut a piece 1/2 lengthwise to go around your new hose in that rub area to act as a spacer.
 
Some interesting data collected today. We have the fox marine gateways collecting engine info - I ran WOT with my 4 blades last week and wasn't quire able to get up to 4400. Having only a few weeks left, I figured throw the 3 blade 19” vengeance back on to finish out and I’ll do some testing of WOT next year to go back to 4s

Well, we had an incredibly flat fall day on the big lake so went for a nice ride. Turns out, the 3 blades are more efficient at least in these conditions. We were getting 1.3mpg, running 30mph at only 3500 rpm. I was still able to plane down to 3100-3200 and we were running about 26 mph.

WOT got up into 4550 and was still climbing but I was satisfied with that so pulled back, no reason to beat her up late in the year.

Of course at those higher speeds in snotty conditions you’d get beat up a little more, so it depends on your boating habits.

I share because it reinforces that as much as I thought the 4 blades “felt” more efficient there is nothing like real data. Running at 30mph best cruise with the vengeance is sweet as long as it’s calm

 
Some interesting data collected today. We have the fox marine gateways collecting engine info - I ran WOT with my 4 blades last week and wasn't quire able to get up to 4400. Having only a few weeks left, I figured throw the 3 blade 19” vengeance back on to finish out and I’ll do some testing of WOT next year to go back to 4s

Well, we had an incredibly flat fall day on the big lake so went for a nice ride. Turns out, the 3 blades are more efficient at least in these conditions. We were getting 1.3mpg, running 30mph at only 3500 rpm. I was still able to plane down to 3100-3200 and we were running about 26 mph.

WOT got up into 4550 and was still climbing but I was satisfied with that so pulled back, no reason to beat her up late in the year.

Of course at those higher speeds in snotty conditions you’d get beat up a little more, so it depends on your boating habits.

I share because it reinforces that as much as I thought the 4 blades “felt” more efficient there is nothing like real data. Running at 30mph best cruise with the vengeance is sweet as long as it’s calm


The 3 blade was 14.5x19?
 
Looking for some suggestions.... I need to replace my dash panels. I know that flounder pounder has them but they are expensive. Has anyone done a DIY project?
 
Mercuiser 5.0 EFI Sea Water Hose Leak:
Just got back from a week-long cruise to the San Juan Islands in WA state, and thought I would share the only issue we had, since it affects other owners. Our first day was a 107 mile run from Tacoma to our San Juan Islands. After warming up the engines, I popped the engine hatch and saw no issues. Headed out. After we were docked at the end of the long run, I popped the engine hatch to discover salt deposits all over the engine bay. Salty, crusty mess!
The culprit was the sea water hose running between the heat exchanger and the Cool Fuel Module. The cause was: the hose is installed against the flange of the power steering pump, prolonged engine vibration wore a groove that eventually went through the hose. I looked at the other engine and sure enough, there was a similar groove being etched on the other engine.
For a short term fix, I pulled the old hose and wrapped it with Rescue Tape, and reinstalled until a replacement hose would show up. Hose can be changed on the water. Wasn't perfect but it worked okay for cruising the Islands for a couple of days. I always carry Corrosion Block spray with me and hit the alternator and other engine surfaces at the end of every run until the new hose could be installed.
The new hose showed up and was installed before our return trip home on Saturday; I am going to be adding tape padding to the hose near the power steering pump to prevent this.

Happy cruising!
Michael

Yikes, I’ve gotta check mine now. From the ps cooler to the cool fuel?
 
Anyone had their transom compartment door redone, mine is cracked, it appears to be water intrusion, probably should be gutted, glassed and finished. Was interested in your experience and what you spent. Thanks, JM
 

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