Windlass Switch - No Power (2000 - 340)

Hi Y'all,

New to me 2000 340 Sundancer. The windlass won't work and have narrowed the issue down to power not returning to the switch to complete the circuit. No light on switch either.

Anyone know if there are some fuses that may have been taped over that are now hidden? I don't want to start cutting open sheaths and not finding anything. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Have you reset the big breaker? Usually a red button type breaker on the panel.

I know the switches on the Lofrans windless has a 5 amp fuse somewhere in the system.

Which windless do you have? Do you have the manual with the schematics?

Those switches are notorious for the contacts inside the switch getting corroded, especially on your year 340 and the 1995 to 1999 330's. They are on a spot that gets water on it from water running down the helm from the dash.

Are you sure you have power to it? I had the exact symptoms this summer. Windlass worked fine the previous time, then all of a sudden, pushing the Main switch on did not result in any solenoid click or light, so the up down did not work.

My son (recent comp science grad and electrical genius) troubleshooted the wiring and found it was a bad main switch. We bypassed it to trigger the solenoid and I could use it temporarily. Replaced the switch with one bought from Flounder Pounder (Sea Ray Parts).

But, I also took the old switch apart. Sure enough the contacts were corroded. I cleaned it up and am keeping it on the boat as a spare.

Do you have separate windlass switch on the dash ?

boatmailster said:

Do you have separate windlass switch on the dash ?

Click to expand...

Yes Sir.

I did come across your post on this issue, thank you for the input, will try and bypass to confirm if the circuit is complete. Would you mind if I DM'ed you if I have any additional questions? Might have to be in the Spring as the boat is getting shrink-wrapped as we speak.

Creekwood said:

Those switches are notorious for the contacts inside the switch getting corroded, especially on your year 340 and the 1995 to 1999 330's. They are on a spot that gets water on it from water running down the helm from the dash.

Are you sure you have power to it? I had the exact symptoms this summer. Windlass worked fine the previous time, then all of a sudden, pushing the Main switch on did not result in any solenoid click or light, so the up down did not work.

My son (recent comp science grad and electrical genius) troubleshooted the wiring and found it was a bad main switch. We bypassed it to trigger the solenoid and I could use it temporarily. Replaced the switch with one bought from Flounder Pounder (Sea Ray Parts).

But, I also took the old switch apart. Sure enough the contacts were corroded. I cleaned it up and am keeping it on the boat as a spare.

Click to expand...

Sure. Happy to help. Your 2000 340 is a very similar boat to the 1995 to 1999 330's so there is a lot of good relevant information in the ongoing 330 thread here on CSR as well as the 340 thread.

To test if your solenoid is ok you will need voltmeter and piece of wire. In rope locker you should find solenoid. Depends on windlass used it could be 3 or 4 wire solenoid. 3 or 4 heavy wires and 3 thin ones. On 3 wires solenoid using voltmeter locate positive on one of heavy wires. Make sure that center wire where 3 thin wires are connected, is negative. Now using small jump wire connect positive to any of 2 thin wires NOT CENTER ONE WHICH IS NEGATIVE. If solenoid is ok then windlass should move. Try both sides to make sure it is moving both directions. If it works check your up/down switch on dashboard. It is simple momentarily on/off/on switch. There should be positive in center prong and possibly negative for switch illumination. Likely somewhere in bilge you will find latching solenoid controlled by windlass on/off switch. There may be one or two 1A fuses on it. Make sure they not blown.