Tie Downs

jeffrey vargas

Active Member
Feb 4, 2019
310
Sacramento, Ca
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 48
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2004 Sundancer 390
2001 Sundancer 380
2000 Sundancer 34
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I'm looking for a good, high-quality tie down to replace the factory cheap ones that came on my boat. Looking for something that will hide the old screw holes or I can do a cut out to accommodate the new ones. Does anybody have any recommendations?
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I bought my tie downs from GHS, however they look very similar to yours. http://ghslift.com/photo-gallery?nggpage=2 Mine have worked very well for us. Have yours gone bad?

-Tom
Hey Tom, yhey haven't gone bad but they're starting to leave some rust stains. I've seen some really nice ones on bigger Princess yachts and figured if I was going to remove these to clean the rust, I'd do a little upgrade. Probably just looking for things to spend money on . I found these at Home Depot and they look really nice and lay flat but I'll have to cut a hole into the swim deck to recess them. So, before cutting into my swim deck, I thought I'd ask and see if there were other options.
 

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It's winter here, and ours is laid up in heated indoor storage and I have yet to stop finding ways to spend money. We're in fresh water, so rust hasn't been an issue for us. Here is what TNT/UMT Marine uses. http://www.umtmarine.com/stainless-steel/tie-down-mounting-plates I had them make my stainless tie down cables, and they've worked out really well.

I've been working on ideas to get the bow down a bit, and just got my tabs back from my fabricator. I added 3" drop fins, and 3" in length.

-Tom
 
Hey Tom, yhey haven't gone bad but they're starting to leave some rust stains. I've seen some really nice ones on bigger Princess yachts and figured if I was going to remove these to clean the rust, I'd do a little upgrade. Probably just looking for things to spend money on . I found these at Home Depot and they look really nice and lay flat but I'll have to cut a hole into the swim deck to recess them. So, before cutting into my swim deck, I thought I'd ask and see if there were other options.

Couple of thoughts,

First paint some FSR on, let sit for a awhile, or over night. Rust stains will wash off, both stainless and surrounding fiberglass.

Yes, removing and rebedding will slow down the rust stains. For me (I have the same attachment point), I want the smallest that will do the job. I would not want a larger one.
 
I found a good variety of those at Defender. Various shapes, marine quality.

On-and-Off also does a good job of cleaning rust.
 
Thanks for the input everyone! I think I'm just going to clean up the rust and call it a day!
 
It's winter here, and ours is laid up in heated indoor storage and I have yet to stop finding ways to spend money. We're in fresh water, so rust hasn't been an issue for us. Here is what TNT/UMT Marine uses. http://www.umtmarine.com/stainless-steel/tie-down-mounting-plates I had them make my stainless tie down cables, and they've worked out really well.

I've been working on ideas to get the bow down a bit, and just got my tabs back from my fabricator. I added 3" drop fins, and 3" in length.

-Tom

Tom,

I will be interested to hear your results with this project. Any down side to expanding the tabs? What was the cost?
 
Tom,

I will be interested to hear your results with this project. Any down side to expanding the tabs? What was the cost?

Me too Zach. I did a lot of research, and this was the best idea I could come up with. There's just no room to add wider tabs, or additional tabs so I decided to go this direction. Below are a couple of pics. As you'll see we just added onto the existing tab. No one offered an opinion on any potential downside which is very unusual. I doubt the bill will be more than a couple hundred $'s.

-Tom

9CE5B6FA-D384-4453-95B5-55BFF1F190D9_1_201_a.jpeg

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Actually, those tie downs are not "cheap" - they are quite good and beefy - along with being good quality SS. What you found at Home Depot would be a few steps down from what you have.

Many people have the misconception (and likely the reason for your post) that SS does not rust - and if it does, it must be cheap. SS simply "stains less" than other metals. SS will protect itself from corrosion, but only if exposed to air. This is why SS is not allowed for use under the waterline - it wouldn't last. What you are experiencing is very normal - it is called "crevice corrosion". There is a very small gap between the piece and the glass where water can collect and stay - which leads to rust bleeding. It is not entirely preventable, but loosening the piece and resealing underneath can help - as can keeping up on waxing that piece.
 
Me too Zach. I did a lot of research, and this was the best idea I could come up with. There's just no room to add wider tabs, or additional tabs so I decided to go this direction. Below are a couple of pics. As you'll see we just added onto the existing tab. No one offered an opinion on any potential downside which is very unusual. I doubt the bill will be more than a couple hundred $'s.

-Tom

View attachment 79011
View attachment 79012

Thanks for sharing. I think they rest of this will be doing the same if you have good success with this. I added some of the upgrades we have done to the main 48 thread. Hopefully we can all learn what upgrades folks are getting done.
 
I've got to get better at remembering to take pics of my upgrades, and to not hi-jack others threads (sorry Jeff). One of my upgrades was to re-arrange the main batteries to get better access to the a/c lines. I blow ours out once a month due to our marina being located on a river, and having a lot of sediment. The 4" or so of factory clearance is ridiculous to try, and work with. Not to mention that stupid ladder, and how many times I dropped those pins somewhere in the engine when removing before buying quick release ball pins with tethers.

-Tom
 
Actually, those tie downs are not "cheap" - they are quite good and beefy - along with being good quality SS. What you found at Home Depot would be a few steps down from what you have.

Many people have the misconception (and likely the reason for your post) that SS does not rust - and if it does, it must be cheap. SS simply "stains less" than other metals. SS will protect itself from corrosion, but only if exposed to air. This is why SS is not allowed for use under the waterline - it wouldn't last. What you are experiencing is very normal - it is called "crevice corrosion". There is a very small gap between the piece and the glass where water can collect and stay - which leads to rust bleeding. It is not entirely preventable, but loosening the piece and resealing underneath can help - as can keeping up on waxing that piece.
Good to know and yes, I decided to clean it all up and reseal and reseat what I have.
 

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