Need to replace Perko mastlight

I tried that in the past. Barely enough wire to work with,
On the existing boat fixture? Or on the new one? Seems like on the new one I'd have wire the length of that short pole. On the boat I can always pull the existing wire back through to the mounting base and extend it and feed it back through. At least that is the plan. My biggest concern is the existing fixture is an inny (slides into the pole with a screw holding it) and it appears the new fixture is an outy (looks like it slides over the pole). So I gotta check diameters or figure out a mating sleeve.
 
Do you have an open array radar that requires the double 45 degree bend? Finding that pole is the major i$$ue.

I purchased a strait pole with the light fixture/new base and rewired it using the existing double 45 pole to put the socket and light fixture back on. Its a pain to get the wires through the pole, and you'll need a couple pop rivets to secure everything back together.

However, in the end, it was never very robust/secure even after the rebuild. It would bounce up and down due to the weight of the pole hanging back behind the mount/socket (radar arch had rotten wood so no support), the pole was never strait up and down (always off to one side or other), and worst of all I never knew if it was on or if it would stay lit.

I ended putting an Attwood LED light attached to a radar mount up as part of a radar upgrade last year. It wasn't cheap, but its done right once and for all. If you have the ability, I highly recommend the Attwod. Again, having the open array radar complicates mounting.

https://www.amazon.com/attwood-7812...+light&qid=1580243333&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-4

Dave
 
Do you have an open array radar that requires the double 45 degree bend? Finding that pole is the major i$$ue.

I purchased a strait pole with the light fixture/new base and rewired it using the existing double 45 pole to put the socket and light fixture back on. Its a pain to get the wires through the pole, and you'll need a couple pop rivets to secure everything back together.

However, in the end, it was never very robust/secure even after the rebuild. It would bounce up and down due to the weight of the pole hanging back behind the mount/socket (radar arch had rotten wood so no support), the pole was never strait up and down (always off to one side or other), and worst of all I never knew if it was on or if it would stay lit.

I ended putting an Attwood LED light attached to a radar mount up as part of a radar upgrade last year. It wasn't cheap, but its done right once and for all. If you have the ability, I highly recommend the Attwod. Again, having the open array radar complicates mounting.

https://www.amazon.com/attwood-7812...+light&qid=1580243333&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-4

Dave
The boat had the open array radar so the existing pole has the bends. But it's since been replaced by a Quantum dome so a straight pole will now work. Boat is a friends 2001 400DB.
 
On the existing boat fixture? Or on the new one? Seems like on the new one I'd have wire the length of that short pole. On the boat I can always pull the existing wire back through to the mounting base and extend it and feed it back through. At least that is the plan. My biggest concern is the existing fixture is an inny (slides into the pole with a screw holding it) and it appears the new fixture is an outy (looks like it slides over the pole). So I gotta check diameters or figure out a mating sleeve.
I was using the old pole, the problem came from the wires in the old pole being the exact length of the old pole. Not enough to work with. If you can get the plug out of the bottom, you could run all new wire
 
If replacing just the light...go with the Atwood.
The Perko unit is not sealed and will suffer corrosion sooner or later. The Atwood is completely sealed.

If budget allows consider a Seaview ( or similar) radar mount with a new light and pole. I went round and round on doing this but it was worth every penny in the end. It is solid, works with out fail and all connections/ fiberglass penetration are sealed inside.
 
Got it done. I bought the short exact replacement for $38. Turned out it was what was exactly installed with the short tube attached to the light slipped inside the long metal pole. It was a perfect fit. But I couldn't get out the original metal sleeve so I took the pole off it's base, feed some wire back into the pole to give me wire working room, then cut and spliced wires. I drilled the rivet off the new fixture to pull it off its short pipe so I could slide the new fixture onto the old sleeve. Used a screw rather than a rivet to hold the fixture back on. Notice in the wiring picture sea ray cross wired the front and back wires at the factory. I matched them by color initially then found out the wrong light lit up. So I had to swap the grey and white as shown
 

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