300 Sundancer questions.

One thing to mention...if you do go for the 300DA, definitely check out the posts here on modifying / extending the sideways V-berth.

I saw a few really nice jobs on here recently. The PO of our boat did a pretty good job (not as nice as the ones I saw here), and it makes a huge difference. You end-up with a massive sleeping area.

Before buying our 300DA, we were bouncing between an '03+ 340DA (my first choice) and a 320DA. At over 6' tall, I found the V-berth too short for me on the 320. While trying to find a good 340 in our price range we stumbled across the 300 with the modified V-berth and we ended-up buying it.

Just sold our 320... Looking to down size a little in exchange for more speed on the water.... Even looking at the 280's... Still so much undecided... Whats your cruise speed if you don't mind me asking?
 
Just sold our 320... Looking to down size a little in exchange for more speed on the water.... Even looking at the 280's... Still so much undecided... Whats your cruise speed if you don't mind me asking?
Here is some data from when I had the 300DA:

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I had the twin 4.3s. Usually cruised anywhere from about 3300 to 3700RPM, maybe 30 to 35MPH, if I remember well...it was a while ago.

It was a really sporty-feeling boat, and was much happier on-plane than running at hull-speeds.
 
We just removed our dancer decals too as they were looking pretty tired. We left the pinstripes but after seeing yours we might do that too.. purchased some chrome lettering to add the “Sundancer” in place of where the decal used to be. Will share some photos once they’re on.


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Debadged
So I bought an eraser wheel and removed the old Sundancer with sunset and pinstripes last weekend. Took about 1.5-2hrs and the tool worked perfectly.
 
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Just completed another quarantine project. Added electric trumpet horns to the arch. Much better sound compared to the OEM. I used a relay, activated by the horn switch. Lemme know if you want the deets.
Question: is the small padded panel at the arch mount attached by Christmas trees or bolts? Mine is held really tight against the arch.

Also, there is a bolt (one of a few, I imagine) holding the large padded bolster at the fwd end that is inaccessible, at least to me.

Anybody remove this large panel? I need to fix some trees on the aft end.
 
View attachment 84800 View attachment 84801
Just completed another quarantine project. Added electric trumpet horns to the arch. Much better sound compared to the OEM. I used a relay, activated by the horn switch. Lemme know if you want the deets.
Question: is the small padded panel at the arch mount attached by Christmas trees or bolts? Mine is held really tight against the arch.

Also, there is a bolt (one of a few, I imagine) holding the large padded bolster at the fwd end that is inaccessible, at least to me.

Anybody remove this large panel? I need to fix some trees on the aft end.

That looks awesome and the OEM horn sounds like your old built PC speaker for Windows 3.0. If you can send me the details that would be great. Enjoy BobbyQ
 
="Chillaxin', post: 1130612, member:

Question: is the small padded panel at the arch mount attached by Christmas trees or bolts? Mine is held really tight against the arch.

Also, there is a bolt (one of a few, I imagine) holding the large padded bolster at the fwd end that is inaccessible, at least to me.

Anybody remove this large panel? I need to fix some trees on the aft end.

The smaller padded panel on my 2006 is held in place with the Christmas tree fasteners. I've not tried removing the upper but I'd suspect it has a few bolts holding it in place.
Nice improvement the horn, looks great. Please share the deets, I've considered a similar upgrade.
 
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Just completed another quarantine project. Added electric trumpet horns to the arch. Much better sound compared to the OEM. I used a relay, activated by the horn switch. Lemme know if you want the deets.
Question: is the small padded panel at the arch mount attached by Christmas trees or bolts? Mine is held really tight against the arch.

Also, there is a bolt (one of a few, I imagine) holding the large padded bolster at the fwd end that is inaccessible, at least to me.

Anybody remove this large panel? I need to fix some trees on the aft end.

Question for ya - I’m looking at adding a low profile LED light bar on top of my arch as a lot of boaters in our area seem to be floating / boating around without proper nav or anchor lights. It sounds like you were able to run wiring up into the arch by simply popping the large padded panel at the aft facing seat?

I’ve run quite a bit of wiring for speakers etc and I’d rather not remove the helm seat and entire padded panel if I don’t have to.

Ill be connecting to the FWD ACCY under the helm for power.

any input is appreciated before I start pulling things apart!
 
The smaller padded panel on my 2006 is held in place with the Christmas tree fasteners. I've not tried removing the upper but I'd suspect it has a few bolts holding it in place.
Nice improvement the horn, looks great. Please share the deets, I've considered a similar upgrade.
I'll use a panel pulling tool for that smaller, upper pad. That would probably give access to a couple of bolts holding the aft part of the large, lower pad.
 
Here's the deets on my horn install:
Pulled STBD cockpit speaker, round access panel adjacent to the helm seat, the arch speaker, the STBD arch light and arch center access panel. I couldn't pull the small bolstered panel on the arch, but that will make things so much easier for you if you can.
Use a fish tape, attach a pull string, using the various access holes and work your way up to the arch access hole.

I bought and pulled 14/2 duplex wire from the EIM access up to the arch access panel. Bought 30', used maybe 22'.

I decided to use a relay I bought from an auto store. I put an inline blade fuse with maybe 10g wire on either side, also bought at the auto store and put a ring terminal one end and attached it to the positive lug on the EIM. Don't install the 20A fuse until you are ready to test. The other end gets a female blade connector and gets attached to pin 30 on the relay.
I also used 14g black ground wire with a ring terminal to the negative lug on the EIM. On the bare end of that ground wire, attach a yellow heat shrink butt connector. I then took 2 lengths of black wire twisted together on one end and crimp the twisted end into the other end of the butt splice. Put a female blade connector on one of the wires. This will go to the 85 on the relay. The other ground will be connected to the ground on the pulled 14/2, to the horn.

I used a line tap from the existing horn wire coming out of the EIM. This wire is color coded orange with a black stripe. I tested with multimeter, piercing the wire and activated the horn, then showing voltage. I used a black wire from the line tap off the horn wire, attached a female blade connector to pin 86 on the relay. You can check the operation of the relay by hitting the horn button. The relay should give an audible click.

The positive wire going to the horn gets a female blade connector and gets connected to pin 87.

Mounted the horns with stainless screws after pre-drilling and gooping the holes. After twisting the 2 positives together, attach a yellow heat shrink butt connector. Attach the positive from the pulled wire to the other end of the butt splice. Same for the negatives. For the horn wires going into the arch, use a cableclam of your choice.

Sorry for the long response but hopes this helps.
 
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Thanks for the pointers on running wires up into the arch, got the LED light bar wired in to the forward accy switch, install was quite easy and looks great. No more worrying about un-lit boaters after dark!

(dont mind the taped over holes/mounts for TV and GPS antenna, still waiting for the local shop to replace them after peeling them off during the last pull out & winterize ‍♂️)
 
View attachment 85255 View attachment 85256 Thanks for the pointers on running wires up into the arch, got the LED light bar wired in to the forward accy switch, install was quite easy and looks great. No more worrying about un-lit boaters after dark!

(dont mind the taped over holes/mounts for TV and GPS antenna, still waiting for the local shop to replace them after peeling them off during the last pull out & winterize ‍♂️)
you're going to use this as a "headlight"? If so, bad idea. You will ruin other boaters night vision - I'll spare the lecture, but radar or flir would would have been the appropriate upgrade - yes, boating is not cheap.
 
Good Morning,
i took my 300 sundancer out yesterday and noticed the starboard engine required more rpms than the port side in order to sync properly. It felt like the starboard engine was running well but the drive could not translate that power into propulsion. I felt like the rpm difference was about 1,000 to 1,500. I have also felt like the boat has a vibration that i am not used to. At lower rpms everything seems ok, but the starboard has always required more throttle that the port side engine. The throttle on the starboard engine is also stiffer than the port side. I am concerned the Drive is failing.....Thoughts?
 
So I’m selling my offshore dive boat, and getting back into just boat on my local lake with my wife, I’ve looked at several boats, and recently ran across a 1997 Sundancer 300 with inboards and a generator, these are two of the items I wanted, so definitely a plus. The other big item was a larger bed, I noticed that the 300 is the normal V/Berth style and was seeing if anyone could tell me if it’s roomy enough? It’s not necessarily a deal breaker, but we would have liked a queen size berth, but I know it’s not possible on a boat with just a 10’6” beam.
Also was wondering if the cockpit felt cramped or not? From the pictures I’ve seen it looks tight? I’d love to hear from any 94-97 Sundancer 300 owners. I didn’t see any official threads for the 94-97 Sundancer 300, if I purchase this particular boat maybe I should start one. Thanks
 
Hi, Sorry, am not familiar with the older model, but there are some good examples (in this thread also) of extending the birth that I also copied because the original birth was not quite large enough. Some pics attached from my modification, which is not quite yet finalised, but am sure will increase usability greatly
 

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So I’m selling my offshore dive boat, and getting back into just boat on my local lake with my wife, I’ve looked at several boats, and recently ran across a 1997 Sundancer 300 with inboards and a generator, these are two of the items I wanted, so definitely a plus. The other big item was a larger bed, I noticed that the 300 is the normal V/Berth style and was seeing if anyone could tell me if it’s roomy enough? It’s not necessarily a deal breaker, but we would have liked a queen size berth, but I know it’s not possible on a boat with just a 10’6” beam.
Also was wondering if the cockpit felt cramped or not? From the pictures I’ve seen it looks tight? I’d love to hear from any 94-97 Sundancer 300 owners. I didn’t see any official threads for the 94-97 Sundancer 300, if I purchase this particular boat maybe I should start one. Thanks
 
We bought a 94 sundancer 300. I'm a big guy and have basically rebuilt this boat. Yes it's tight but so far we are really enjoying the boat. It's a v-drive with a gen. We have slept in the aft area and the wife and I were a little cramped but enjoyed our weekend. This is our first cruiser but so far really having a good time. If I can help with questions just let me know.
 
Also a 94 owner, I/O not the V drives. Wife and I love they boat really.
Have also done a lot of rebuilding/rewiring after all it is 27 years old (manufacture date in 1993)
One of the few Sundancers with the original arch like the Sea Ray brochures.
It was a lake only boat has original engines, still in great shape, simple carbs, simple electrical.

Do get a thorough survey, the hulls are solid fiberglass, but all boats have wooden stringers, bulkheads, decks and the helm deck, cabin sides and top are all balsa cored. Older boats if not re-sealed regularly can have a lot of problems around hatches, port holes, mounting points (ask how I know...)
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BABOAT

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Lake Wylie, South Carolina
 

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