Head issue

Stuart 579

New Member
Jul 18, 2020
13
Boat Info
Formerly Searay DA 290 2007.
Engines
Mercruiser Twin 5.0L MPI with Bravo 3 stern drives
I have an 07 290 DA but I’m in Australia and it’s branded 325. My port engine wouldn’t start so i used the emergency battery switch which fired it up ok. SB engine all good. Motored around for an hour and assumed that alternator would charge battery but had some other issues such as one of my Sounders wouldn’t turn on. Moored up and head worked well for a while but then stopped. Hatch to engine also really slow.

Feels like I have an electrical issue ( all batteries replaced 2 months ago)


Ran the genny for a while and then the port engine fired ok but head still won’t flush.


Plugged in shore power but then the reverse polarity light came on. I dont even know what this means.

By this time I was over it so went and had a beer.


Any thoughts on what might be going on. I’d really like to get the toilet working!


Disclaimer. I’m really new to boating and this boat so be gentle
 
I have an 07 290 DA but I’m in Australia and it’s branded 325. My port engine wouldn’t start so i used the emergency battery switch which fired it up ok. SB engine all good. Motored around for an hour and assumed that alternator would charge battery but had some other issues such as one of my Sounders wouldn’t turn on. Moored up and head worked well for a while but then stopped. Hatch to engine also really slow.

Feels like I have an electrical issue ( all batteries replaced 2 months ago)


Ran the genny for a while and then the port engine fired ok but head still won’t flush.


Plugged in shore power but then the reverse polarity light came on. I dont even know what this means.

By this time I was over it so went and had a beer.


Any thoughts on what might be going on. I’d really like to get the toilet working!


Disclaimer. I’m really new to boating and this boat so be gentle

I've had a toilet issue now and again but never one associated to the engine.
I'm thinking it's just the Boating Gods messing with you.
I'ld start checking the electrical parts of the crapper. Not sure which one you have but they are all relatively straight forward. And if your not a diy kind of guy call in a knowledge buddy or local pro. Just keep the beer cold no matter what the out come.
 
Not sure which one you have but they are all relatively straight forward.

I should have stated the toilet is a dometic. Worked beautifully with good vacuum and then simply stopped. The key\pump out\tank indicator Led and tank level indicator still illuminates. I have water from at least the taps up top. Just no vacuum now. I appreciate the steer that the boat gods might be just playing with me. Seems a bot of a coincidence that a few things have all started playing up at same time, but maybe I'm just naïve :)
 
First off. Some time just giving up for that night and cracking a beer is the best solution to start with. Then sit back think about it and start small and then go wider. Check batteries and charging system. Turn off all breakers and then reset.
 
First off. Some time just giving up for that night and cracking a beer is the best solution to start with. Then sit back think about it and start small and then go wider. Check batteries and charging system. Turn off all breakers and then reset.
Working for a beer company helps with your first suggestion :)
Gut feel is you're spot on with batteries and charging system. Its had new batteries recently and I wonder if a) I have a loose connection b) dodgy alternator.
We're on a swing mooring and stayed overnight a couple of weekends ago without running the engines (Did have geny running for a while) so wondering if we zapped battery and the charging system isn't working because we ran the boat for over an hour yesterday.
 
So just spent a few hours looking at this. I charged the batteries and then plugged in to shore power so I know I have juice now, but head still inoperable. The key in the head has an LED illuminated so I assume I have power and I have the Head System breaker ON in the main distribution board. I have looked at the fuses under the wheel at the helm and in the engine bay (pics attached) but don’t see any related to “the head”. When I push the pedal on the head I get a little water but no pop of the vacuum. I can’t imagine that it’s blocked. I’ve had the boat for 3 months and there have been no solids through it.
If I look at the vacuum pump (pics attached) and put a meter on it, what should I see on the 2 connectors? Permanent 12v of only 12v when head activated?
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • 32AFBFEF-05F4-491C-90D3-1BA0364F0362.jpeg
    32AFBFEF-05F4-491C-90D3-1BA0364F0362.jpeg
    119.1 KB · Views: 107
  • 9491E363-4F7E-4BD0-9563-9E3718354C45.jpeg
    9491E363-4F7E-4BD0-9563-9E3718354C45.jpeg
    165.6 KB · Views: 106
  • 34924EF5-E790-43F1-B5E2-334BD72B9B25.jpeg
    34924EF5-E790-43F1-B5E2-334BD72B9B25.jpeg
    109.4 KB · Views: 112
I believe there is very little chance the engine and vacuum situation are related. I think you need to provide us more information on the vacuum situation such as...is the vacuum pump pumping at all? (You will hear it chugging) Does it continually pump without shutting off? Do you have an indicator light in the head which illuminates red or green? Have you ever pumped out your holding tank? Is there any odor in the bilge? If in fact it is on and pumping but not creating vacuum for the head then you have a leak in the system preventing the accumulation of a vacuum....which points to the duck bill valves needing replacement.
 
I believe there is very little chance the engine and vacuum situation are related. I think you need to provide more information on the vacuum situation such as...is the vacuum pump pumping at all? (You will hear it chugging) Does it continually pump without shutting off? Have you ever pumped out your holding tank? Is there any odor in the bilge? If in fact it is on and pumping but not creating vacuum for the head then you have a leak in the system preventing the accumulation of a vacuum....which points to the duck bill valves needing replacement.
Pumped out holding tank a couple of days ago. Head system shows “empty”. No odor in the bilge. Haven’t heard the vacuum pumping at all and was in the engine bay for over an hour today. Does the vacuum pump just run when flushing or does it build a vacuum randomly? Is power to the vacuum pump constantly on? Ie if I get my meter on it tomorrow should I get 12v? Thanks for you help
 
The vacuum pump should run for 45 or so seconds after flushing because the 12 volt electrical switch (factory set to sense loss of vacuum in the holding tank) turns on the pump after depressing the toilet pedal. The switch will shut down power to the vacuum pump once it achieves sufficient vacuum again. If you are sure the vacuum pump has never turned on during this process then use your 12V tester on the vacuum pump itself to see if it is getting power. If it is then install a new vacuum pump. That thing should certainly be pumping away if the vacuum is gone in the system!
 
Thanks Brewster.

I’ll get my meter on it tomorrow. The vacuum system seems to have 2 connections. Do you have any insight on the second one or which one is the pump? I assume the top one (black cylinder) based on my picture rather than the white box at the back right?2A3287A4-F14C-4C05-9CCC-5802D78EA90B.jpeg
 
Would the vacuum pump have permanent 12v in a working system and a pressure switch controls the pump is on or off? Just trying to work out if if put my meter on the connector that goes to the pump if it will always be on (12v)
 
Would the vacuum pump have permanent 12v in a working system and a pressure switch controls the pump is on or off? Just trying to work out if if put my meter on the connector that goes to the pump if it will always be on (12v)
The meter should read 12v on the wires going to the pressure switch, the wires going from the pressure switch to the pump, should only read 12 v if the pressure switch detects no vacuum.
First, check the pump, if 12v and not running, pump is bad, if no 12v, check before the switch, if no 12v, fuse/head system off/etc. if 12v, then switch is bad, or you actually have a vacuum. To prove it’s not the latter, open the vacuum tank at the spot where the hose comes in from the tank.
I believe this link has diagnostic troubleshooting procedures
https://www.leesan.com/uploaded_files/datasheets/600340066_vacuflush_500-1000-706_manual.pdf
 
Thank you. That’s very helpful. Off to the boat I head tomorrow
 
Would anyone have an experience of where the fuses are for toilet/head/vacuum on my boat? I’ve struggled to find anything that looks appropriate.
 
As far as I know the breaker on your panel is the only circuit protection. Make sure you have all your 12 volt breakers on, not just head systems. I will tell you why at a later date. ;)
 
No, not really. Sea Ray screwed up when doing our panel. The head is actually controlled by "Indirect Cabin Lights" and those are controlled by head system.
 
The meter should read 12v on the wires going to the pressure switch, the wires going from the pressure switch to the pump, should only read 12 v if the pressure switch detects no vacuum.
First, check the pump, if 12v and not running, pump is bad, if no 12v, check before the switch, if no 12v, fuse/head system off/etc. if 12v, then switch is bad, or you actually have a vacuum. To prove it’s not the latter, open the vacuum tank at the spot where the hose comes in from the tank.
I believe this link has diagnostic troubleshooting procedures
https://www.leesan.com/uploaded_files/datasheets/600340066_vacuflush_500-1000-706_manual.pdf
I’ve got no power coming to the pressure switch and all breakers are on. I guess this is where the “needle in the haystack” starts to try and find the bad connection if indeed that is what the issue is?

any tips that might help in that anyone?
 
I’ve got no power coming to the pressure switch and all breakers are on. I guess this is where the “needle in the haystack” starts to try and find the bad connection if indeed that is what the issue is?

any tips that might help in that anyone?
Trace the wires, and if it goes back to a breaker, or you see an in-line fuse, check voltage there. Maybe easier, check resistance, if you follow the red wire, measure resistance from the one end to the other, should be zero. You could also eliminate one, measure voltage from red/+ to battery -/black, and then black/- to red/+ battery. One of those should not have 12v...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,948
Messages
1,422,806
Members
60,930
Latest member
Ebrown69
Back
Top