Should I be concerned?

Essayons

New Member
Sep 30, 2020
10
Boat Info
1990 220 CC
Engines
MerCruiser 5.7
I just purchased a 1990 220 CC with 5.7 and alpha one. Should I be concerned with the rust around the manifolds.
upload_2020-10-4_19-10-4.jpeg
 
Absolutely
That’s what I think too. I haven’t worked on marine engines before, but the replacement seems straight forward. Am I missing something. Complete kits with manifolds, risers, gaskets, and fasteners are about $600.
 
Your riser gasaskets are pouring water, probably some into the exhaust manifold. I think you are on borrowed time.....like remove the risers, manifolds and gaskets tomorrow! If the manifold gets water in the exhaust passages, you are very close to having to to a complete valve job to get the motor right again.

Also, I suspect your parts price is very conservative, like 1/3 of what Mercruiiser parts usually cost. Did you price aftermarket parts? only figure parts for one side? Also, don't try to use old bolts......order stainless steel bolts.

You are correct, this is a very straightforward remove and replace job that will add years to the life of the engine.
 
Frank,
H
Your riser gasaskets are pouring water, probably some into the exhaust manifold. I think you are on borrowed time.....like remove the risers, manifolds and gaskets tomorrow! If the manifold gets water in the exhaust passages, you are very close to having to to a complete valve job to get the motor right again.

Also, I suspect your parts price is very conservative, like 1/3 of what Mercruiiser parts usually cost. Did you price aftermarket parts? only figure parts for one side? Also, don't try to use old bolts......order stainless steel bolts.

You are correct, this is a very straightforward remove and replace job that will add years to the life of the engine.
Frank,
Thanks for the feedback. There a multiple sites that have complete kits: both risers and manifolds, gaskets, fasteners for between 600-900. All aftermarket. Unfortunately, my time is a bit tight now, but I want to get it done before season end. Any mechanics in the greater SE Wisconsin area out there?
 
Delay will be expensive. So will running the boat. Do indeed get it fixed before the season's end. Why not just put it on the trailer and take it somewhere to be fixed -- and enjoy it next year?
 
Frank,
H

Frank,
Thanks for the feedback. There a multiple sites that have complete kits: both risers and manifolds, gaskets, fasteners for between 600-900. All aftermarket. Unfortunately, my time is a bit tight now, but I want to get it done before season end. Any mechanics in the greater SE Wisconsin area out there?


Here is a post from 10 years ago on this subject:

Jan 25, 2010

fwebsterWell-Known MemberTECHNICAL ContributorPLATINUM Sponsor
11,501
Oct 6, 2006
Middle Tennessee ; Panama City Beach, FL
1996 450DA
3116 Caterpillars
I ran thru several sets of risers and one set of manifold on a 390EC during the 9 years we owned her. My experience with aftermarket cast parts was not good. I had OSCO and Barr and both lasted about 1/2 as long as OEM Mercruiser parts.

The biggest problem was their warranty...the OSCO was so bad I decided that I wouldn't use them again if they were free. The Barr manifolds lasted less than the warranty period, but weren't terrible. What was terrible was that they require the parts to be sent back to them before they will warranty them. I use my boat and I was not going to let it sit and not go boating while they scratched their ....... . I replaced them with OEM Merc castings and didn't lose any boating time. Sure enough, 9 weeks later they called and wanted to negotiate the warranty coverage for depreciation and argue about sending me a check for the amount we agreed on (about 50%). Instead they wanted me to buy new manifolds from their dealer and send them the receipt at which point they would then send me a rebate for the agreed upon settlement.

My point is that, even thought they use it as a selling feature, the warranty can be less than worthless when you consider down time involved.

To quantify this in terms of time, I got about 2 years out of aftermarket risers and 5 years out of Mercruiser parts. Also, I am in a hot weather, salt water location where we use the boat 12 months a year and this is just my experience.
 
Ess,
I have a 1989 220 with the same engine package. Your manifolds are garbage. I highly recommend draining your manifolds with the plugs underneath right now. Take the manifolds off right after that. Puts cloth rags in each of the holes in the heads, and then order you some new Merc OEM manifolds, risers, and shutters.
I would not even crank the motor again with those manifolds for fear of hydro locking.
I can pull my manifolds myself in about an hour.
Drain your manifolds.
Take your engine cowling off and out of the boat. Disconnect the large rubber sleeve between the elbow and Y-Pipe.
Take a 10ft 2x4, lay it across the gunwales side to side over the engine, use a crank strap to pull upward pressure on a manifold/riser/elbow on one side.
Take the manifold bolts out of the head.
Lift the manifold/elbow out of the compartment. Expect to fight it off because the rust. Toss it in the trash. Repeat.
Clean the head mating surface.
Plug the exhaust ports. Get new manifolds and gaskets and shutters.
Installing new is easier. I made a wooden plate to hold my manifold by the vertical elbow bolts while I torqued my bolts. Then I install my elbows.
You can do this yourself in about four hours. Save your season.
 
All,
Thanks for the advice. Already ordered replacements. Now I’m debating whether to take it apart while it’s in the water or trailer it home. From what I’ve seen on YouTube, it’s pretty straight forward. Any potential issues that can complicate things?
 
I’m a believer in if you have to ask “should I be concerned” about anything in life, than yes, you should be concerned.
 
I would rather do it on a hard surface, myself.
The manifolds are heavy and bulky. To minimize the risk of breaking something on the engine or the boat (or me), I would bring it home to keep from rocking.
Since the spark plugs will be staring you in the face with the manifolds off, it will be very temping to put some new ones in at the same time.
That is a great engine package. I have had my for 12 years and love the setup.
 
the problem you run into is if your that low in the water the water level may be at the coupling or just above it. Remove the clamps and you may start taking on water. SS bolts are not recommended in the exaust system.They gall and seize and worse they cant be removed with a torch. Plain steel is all thats needed
 
I would rather do it on a hard surface, myself.
The manifolds are heavy and bulky. To minimize the risk of breaking something on the engine or the boat (or me), I would bring it home to keep from rocking.
Since the spark plugs will be staring you in the face with the manifolds off, it will be very temping to put some new ones in at the same time.
That is a great engine package. I have had my for 12 years and love the setup.
DWA,
I came to same conclusion. Also, if I come across some issues, I’ll be close to all my tools. I plan on changing the plugs and oil filter and fluids. Anything else you would recommend while it’s open? I may replace the steering cable too. There is a bit of play in the steering. I still need to confirm it’s the cable.

BTW, I’ve only had this boat a short time and it was supposed to be an interim boat till next year, but I really like it. Great layout (this is my first Cuddy) and it runs great. The only issue I have is that it wanders a bit at slow speed.
 
Yes. Be very concerned for all the reasons posted. Do this on the hard. I would also pull the plugs check oil for water. That’s not a new leak and looks like you’re in salt water?
 
Ess, my 89 is a great all around boat. I have water-ski’d with the kids, gone boating with the wife and friends, and most recently went saltwater fishing with the wife from my 220. Plenty of power. Sips fuel. Runs dry in heavy seas. I have taken 4 footers off Gulfport and been dry. Congratulations. If yours performs like mine, it will likely be a long term relationship.

When I pull my manifolds every couple of years, I inspect the condition of the insides, I sand the mating surfaces, I put new gaskets, inspect my shutters. Very cheap insurance. My current manifolds are old and will be changed this off season - but I do keep the boat trailered at home and flush at 1300 rpm with tap water from a drum after every use, fresh, brackish, or salt water. Then I keep fresh gaskets.

If I were pulling your manifolds, I would change the spark plugs, closely inspect the main water intake line below the engine on the port side for soft spots. I would either change to new clamps or add a second clamp to the power steering cooler in that line. I had a small oil leak there.
I changed my fuel pump on the lower front starboard side of the block. Easy to get to and no telling how old it was. I would also clean, reconnect all ground wires on the bell housing along with positive wires on the starter with the manifolds off. (Disconnect battery please) Take lots of pictures first before taking off any wires.
If your setup is like mine, your bilge pump is probably under the motor. If so, go ahead and pull it, clean it or replace it and the white, plastic, flexible discharge line that is likely 30 years old.

I am sure some other more knowledgeable members have more ideas.

Post some pictures for us to enjoy your boat, please.
 
Thanks for the advice. Here’s a pic I took last week with the dogs. The name will be changing
 

Attachments

  • upload_2020-10-6_22-36-8.jpeg
    upload_2020-10-6_22-36-8.jpeg
    261.8 KB · Views: 224
Update: I replaced the manifolds and risers last week. Pulled out the old ones Friday night and installed the new ones Saturday morning. Out on the water Saturday afternoon for our first family and friends outing. Here is a before and after pic:
upload_2020-10-17_8-0-17.jpeg
 
That is a happy engine.

One place to follow up, periodically check the joint of the large rubber hose and the elbow and the large rubber hose and the Y-Pipe. On my 2001, the previous owner never looked at the engines, apparently, because one of the joints had a slow leak which dropped salt water on the lower part of the rear exhaust manifold. The result was a rusted bolt head that I barely got off when I pulled the manifolds. I also noticed another one one the other side was leaking down the Y-pipe to the lower bolts. Not as much damage, but still some rust.
I don’t know why they were leaking, but I just feel around mine on a regular basis to check for water seepage.

Did you only change the manifolds or do other maintenance at the same time?

Also, start a detailed Maintenance Log. You will not regret it. I have one on all my boats and cars. My 220 has a boat/trailer log going back 12 years since I got it. I know everything I have done, engine hours, date, part numbers, source of parts, etc.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,946
Messages
1,422,774
Members
60,929
Latest member
Henchman
Back
Top