First time winterizing a new engine questions

FuzzDaddy

Member
Jul 8, 2020
155
Boat Info
2002 Sea Ray 230 Signature
Engines
5.7 Mercruiser
Hello everyone, I hope all is well!
I never winterized an engine before. My engine is new and is a 5.7 Mercruiser. I think I have it figured out but I wanted to check with the pros here first! I think this is the correct order and procedure.
1) Top off the fuel and add fuel stabilizer. Then run engine for 10 minutes
2) Fog the engine until it stalls. Do I use the whole can or just spray it slow until it stalls? Also should I spray some in each cylinder and reinstall the spark plugs without starting the engine again? If so how much?
3) Since the engine is now fogged I don't want to start it. Can I remove all 5 blue petcocks to drain the water from the block and make sure it flows freely with no clogs. Then re-install the plugs, loosen the coolant tube on the thermostat housing and pour antifreeze into the tube until it comes out of the thermostat housing the color of the antifreeze. Then remove 1 petcock plug at a time to check for antifreeze uniform color. After that should I leave the plugs out and be done or should I put them back in and fill the engine using the coolant hose and leave full of antifreeze for the winter?
4) Drain and change stern drive fluid
5) Drain and change engine oil and oil filter
6) Change fuel/water filter
7) Spray a anti-corrosive lubricant over the engine.

Thank you for your time I really appreciate it
Corey
 
Fog the engine until it stalls....no need to spray the whole can. You can pull each plug and just give each hole a 2 second burst of spray. Pull all blue plugs to remove most of the water. Pour antifreeze in the thermostat hose until it comes out of the thermostat housing a solid color and done. Reinstall the hoses and done. No need to pull the blue plugs again. The antifreeze contains a rust inhibitor and best to leave the block full of it.

Bennett
 
Run on muffs to warm the engine, then change the oil while warm, then start and fog etc., want fresh oil circulated for storage.
 
You probably have (6) blue draincocks - check your fuel cooler - by the port motor mount.

Warm/change oil/filter first. Then check/top-off.

Your boat should have an MPI engine. Do not fog the traditional way. Mix 2oz 2-stroke oil and an ounce of stabilizer into the fuel filter. Run for 5 minutes at about 1,200RPM. Turn engine off.

Drain everything. Poke the block/manifolds drain a few times to be sure.

Fill with AF not ONLY through your block hose, but also the (2) manifold hoses and the (1) intake hose. With both of these, fill till you hear it splashing on the ground. Then wait about 30 seconds for the level to go down and fill once more for good luck.

This is assuming you have an Alpha drive... do you have a Bravo drive?

You're using the proper AF, right? Propylene, not ethyl.
 
I think you have it, just make sure you fog it correctly if it is fuel injected. Only thing I do different is I change the oil and gear lube first, then run and fog it, drain the water and fill with anti-freeze.
 
Hi Guys,
Glad to hear I'm pretty accurate. My Engine is EFI so should I still fog? Also my drive is the Bravo.
Thanks for everything! I'm headed to West Marine and Walmart for the supplies
 
Hi Guys,
Glad to hear I'm pretty accurate. My Engine is EFI so should I still fog? Also my drive is the Bravo.
Thanks for everything! I'm headed to West Marine and Walmart for the supplies
Not with the spray, no, mix it in a remote can or just in the fuel filter canister.
 
Hi Guys,
Glad to hear I'm pretty accurate. My Engine is EFI so should I still fog? Also my drive is the Bravo.
Thanks for everything! I'm headed to West Marine and Walmart for the supplies
Fog the way I mentioned above.

Bravo... take the output hose off the backside of the pump. Pull the kill switch. Turn the engine over for a couple seconds. There's a good amount of water that stays in the input line, pump housing and output line. It would take quite a bit of AF to fully flush that out, otherwise. Plus, fluid typically drains pasts the impeller quite slow. UNLESS: Somewhere along the lines the pump housing was changed to the newer style with drain plugs.
 
Good to know about the drain plugs on the pump. Couldn't find any on mine. Thought maybe somebody had changed them to regular pipe plugs or something. Though all Bravos had the drain plugs on the pump. I pull all blue plugs to try to get rid of any sediment then start it and let it warm up then use the Campco kit to run straight AF though it while running. But I keep mine in underground storage so technically doesn't need winterized but I do it for lubrication purposes and just to be safe after we bring it home in the spring in case we get a few really cold days. But I may start doing the engine off/fill hoses method
 
Fog the way I mentioned above.

Bravo... take the output hose off the backside of the pump. Pull the kill switch. Turn the engine over for a couple seconds. There's a good amount of water that stays in the input line, pump housing and output line. It would take quite a bit of AF to fully flush that out, otherwise. Plus, fluid typically drains pasts the impeller quite slow. UNLESS: Somewhere along the lines the pump housing was changed to the newer style with drain plugs.
Sorry to ask but where is the pump and kill switch located? Are you talking about the outboard trim pump that is mounted behind the battery?
 
Got it! Perfect! Thank you everyone for all your help! I really appreciate it
Corey
 
Here is a stupid question because I'm embarrassed I don't know the answer. On my 5.7 Mercruiser what's the difference from the main water pump and the sea water pump? The engine doesn't have a closed system like a car.
Doesn't the cold water enter on the stern drive and the hot water exit out the exhaust?
 
Here is a stupid question because I'm embarrassed I don't know the answer. On my 5.7 Mercruiser what's the difference from the main water pump and the sea water pump? The engine doesn't have a closed system like a car.
Doesn't the cold water enter on the stern drive and the hot water exit out the exhaust?
Yes it does. Your system is closed until the T-stat opens. Circulating pump does just that, keeps the water moving in the block.
 
How important is winterizing in a climate controlled garage? I’m thinking about just changing oil this year and calling it good.
If your going to be there all winter, I wouldn't worry about it. If you had a power outage that will last for days you could winterize it then.
 
If your going to be there all winter, I wouldn't worry about it. If you had a power outage that will last for days you could winterize it then.
I have a backup generator in my garage and a WiFi thermostat that alerts me if the temperature drops. So I’m not really worried about freezing. I’m more worried about corrosion.
 
Cant find AF WITHOUT ETYL. Preston has both Ethyl and propylene Glycol. So what is best?
 

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