Official 350 Thread

LastCall350 said:

Yes sir, I believe those are correct. I am going to install a set here in a couple months when I haul out for my bottom paint. So ready for summer!

Click to expand...

With regards to drip less shaft seals I offer my current experiences recently learned knowledge.
It appears and confirmed by both the marina shop as well as "Last Call" that in-fact the drip less system is not perfect and not for everyone.
That is to say unless your shafts are perfect without any significant scoring becomes challenging for the drip less system to seal. Further I understand that moving the shaft forward or back can improve the sealing should the shafts be scored (Fresh area to ride) but challenging to adjust this.
Should a shop have at anytime not followed the rules during nut tightening of the stuffing box, Then shaft scoring "Could" be the result....
I understand over tightening of the stiffing box nut causes grooving of our cruisers precision shafts due to overheating effects. Your once perfect shafts are then modified with undesirable scoring anomalies from high heat and raw water seepage is the result.

LastCall350 said:

Yes sir, I believe those are correct. I am going to install a set here in a couple months when I haul out for my bottom paint. So ready for summer!

Click to expand...

Outstanding! Thank you, Sir...gonna order mine soon, have a tech lined up, prob around end of April for us. Looking forward to hearing how your install went. Cheers!

Beech2000 said:

With regards to drip less shaft seals I offer my current experiences recently learned knowledge.
It appears and confirmed by both the marina shop as well as "Last Call" that in-fact the drip less system is not perfect and not for everyone.
That is to say unless your shafts are perfect without any significant scoring becomes challenging for the drip less system to seal. Further I understand that moving the shaft forward or back can improve the sealing should the shafts be scored (Fresh area to ride) but challenging to adjust this.
Should a shop have at anytime not followed the rules during nut tightening of the stuffing box, Then shaft scoring "Could" be the result....
I understand over tightening of the stiffing box nut causes grooving of our cruisers precision shafts due to overheating effects. Your once perfect shafts are then modified with undesirable scoring anomalies from high heat and raw water seepage is the result.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that excellent info, Beech, definitely food for thought!

Timvail said:

We live on Georgian Bay and are subject to a lot of snow because of our location. In the big water not so much ice, hence the snow. As far as boating is concerned I often hear from many loopers that Georgian Bay offers the best boating they have ever enjoyed. Only complaint from them is everything is rock under the water. So alot of anxiety for most of them. Needless to say you must chart carefully and watch for markers, even home made ones that can be a white javex bottle attached to a cement block that someone has marked after they encountered a piece of granite. Launch date is somewhere around end of April to early May, depending when the ice leaves the bay. Boat is out by October 31st at the latest.
Many anchorages to sit in safely. Lots of wildlife to see first thing in the morning.
The North channal is another world on Georgian Bay to see.

Click to expand...

Same season for us and I managed to find a rock here, anyway! props in shop now, lol! (ya gotta laugh...)

Anyone know the close cooling system capacity? I'm getting close to installation of my new 7.4 long blocks and need to source antifreeze. I assume 50/50 distilled to concentrate??

Beech2000 said:

Anyone know the close cooling system capacity? I'm getting close to installation of my new 7.4 long blocks and need to source antifreeze. I assume 50/50 distilled to concentrate??

Click to expand...

Depends on size of your heat exchanger/ reservoir. I use 60/40 up here. Need the extra anti freeze for cold temp over winter. Best cooling is a 50/50 mix as you suggested.

Beech2000 said:

Anyone know the close cooling system capacity? I'm getting close to installation of my new 7.4 long blocks and need to source antifreeze. I assume 50/50 distilled to concentrate??

Click to expand...

Yes, 50/50 standard green. I want to say I used around 5 gallons when I flushed my cooling system on the starboard side.

Timvail said:

Depends on size of your heat exchanger/ reservoir. I use 60/40 up here. Need the extra anti freeze for cold temp over winter. Best cooling is a 50/50 mix as you suggested.

Click to expand...

Our heat exchanger's are 5" So looks as if 20 quarts per engine of 50/50. That is 5 gallons of the green stuff and 5 gallons of distilled water should do it.

LastCall350 said:

Yes, 50/50 standard green. I want to say I used around 5 gallons when I flushed my cooling system on the starboard side.

Click to expand...

So 10 gallons of 50/50 in all should do it?

Continued struggles dressing the new Vortec 454's.
1) Oil dip sticks ordered allow them to be checked as if they front to back for outdrive powered boats. Since our engines are V-Drive the dip sticks are accessed from the rear of the engines and both stbd and port accessed from middle of boat. Not sure what I need to order.
2) New Vortec 454's have new style oil filter which require different remote adapters. Now I need hoses Guess I'll have to get a hydraulic hose shop to manufacture. Ugh
3) Since Vortec 454's don't have mechanical fuel pump provisions, I was forced to order a electric fuel pump conversion kit. Connections cheesy, This kit looks to be a Chinese knock off of a Carter. This kit is horrible and not suitable for marine use. Not sure why Michigan Motors would even consider this as Marine quality.
4) Oil Pressure ports - Three in all required. Since the Electric Fuel pump requires a oil pressure switch this means three items. 1) Audible warning switch, 2) Oil Pressure transmitter for gauge 3) Now a pressure switch for the fuel pump. Wondering if I can piggy back the switch for the audible for two functions.

Hopeful progress is made today but the details are killing my haul out slot date.

Beech2000 said:

Continued struggles dressing the new Vortec 454's.
1) Oil dip sticks ordered allow them to be checked as if they front to back for outdrive powered boats. Since our engines are V-Drive the dip sticks are accessed from the rear of the engines and both stbd and port accessed from middle of boat. Not sure what I need to order.
2) New Vortec 454's have new style oil filter which require different remote adapters. Now I need hoses Guess I'll have to get a hydraulic hose shop to manufacture. Ugh
3) Since Vortec 454's don't have mechanical fuel pump provisions, I was forced to order a electric fuel pump conversion kit. Connections cheesy, This kit looks to be a Chinese knock off of a Carter. This kit is horrible and not suitable for marine use. Not sure why Michigan Motors would even consider this as Marine quality.
4) Oil Pressure ports - Three in all required. Since the Electric Fuel pump requires a oil pressure switch this means three items. 1) Audible warning switch, 2) Oil Pressure transmitter for gauge 3) Now a pressure switch for the fuel pump. Wondering if I can piggy back the switch for the audible for two functions.

Hopeful progress is made today but the details are killing my haul out slot date.

Click to expand...

Big project. Problems not unexpected/ When finished you will have a one of a kind to your standard.

I know that's been a PITA project..but once your done it'll be so worth it. Send me a pic of your fuel pump set up once you have it together, I'll be interested to see how you do that. We are having some rare weather in TN, calling for several inches of snow and some real cold temps. Just got back from checking on the boat, toasty in it! Can't wait for next month and spring to hit.

Every part I touch on the original items are dry, brittle and breakage follows. I'm super gentle on torque. Used to this sort of protocol as I fix small light private jets for income
Now shopping for coolant over temp switches for port engine. I pressure checked the cooling and air spewing from wire connection.
Going to drill bracket for the electric fuel pump mounting. Thought about installing pump somewhere on the boat rails and then said to myself "Hello Dumb ass...." This ain't your 70 nova with an oil burning 307 from high school. Do it right. So once I have another full week end I'll figure a way to engine mount in a cool spot. For now I'm dirty, frustrated and out of time. Going to talk with Marina to see my options for haul out first or better yet second week in March. I'm on the schedule at present for next Monday. No way!

Found these for the audible coolant overtemp warning. https://www.amazon.com/Spal-185-TS-Temperature-Switch/dp/B018LQAEX2
They're stainless like ours, 3/8" pipe thread and match the specs of ours. Now on to ordering another set of riser elbow mounting bolts.

Beech2000 said:

In effort to keep this thread alive I offer the following winter endless todo list cross offs.

• New Gen 6 454's ordered and scheduled to arrive at terminal for pick up Feb 8
• New extended swim platform waiting at marina shop to install once engines are installed
• Water heater installed and done.
• Below water level hoses all replaced. Pure misery as they were originals to "Plenty Of Time"
• Deck sound system installed and done. Sub Woofer, amp and lighted Kickers all in place.
• Engine bay super clean and replacing wiring looms, clamps and pull zip ties accordingly
• Removed helm instrument panel dated red upholstery. Will be all white tomorrow ready for pick up
• March A/C re-circulation pump wood mount was broken from some one stepping on it I believe. Built a new one from all plastic. Will install it and new below water line hose tomorrow. Friday 1/29/2021
  
• Have 40 feet of red and black 2 OTT battery cable. I have all new ends from NAPA and the real AMP hammer crimping tool with some OEM style colored heat shrink and will start on this tomorrow
• Ignoring wife's incredible articulate shared detail on the excessive amount of time I spend working on the Boat.

• Still have the following on the list.
• Tape up my bride's vocal abilities on the subject
• Dress engines for marina to install. Drilling of accessory brackets from 3/8" to 7/16" Need a drill press or machine shop.
• Pick up intake manifolds from machine shop
  
• Remove factory swim ladder peel of sea deck, Plug and fill holes, Call and get on the seadeck guy's schedule Swim platforms and the new extended swim platform,
  
• Order new exhaust wet hose for new engines
  
• Order up or scoop up a better stern anchor for large tie ups

Click to expand...

In regards to the helm uhpolstery, what is the procedure of removing the pieces? are there screws or bolts behind them? Redoing mine in another color. Thanks.

QT1 said:

In regards to the helm uhpolstery, what is the procedure of removing the pieces? are there screws or bolts behind them? Redoing mine in another color. Thanks.

Click to expand...

Good question. All I can say is PITA to say the least.
Kick panel at helm under steering wheel is the first to remove. Easy enough. I won't be reinstaling this piece
Next? Chrome handle bar....... Big PITA.
1) Three attach points. One is in the cabin. Yes in cabin right behind cabin entry way aft cabin curtain closure. Travel downstairs with a 9/16" flex socket or a spanner wrench to remove nut and washers from the 3/8" long stud at end of bar.
2) Center attach point is another short 3/8" stud with wing nut. Accessed through center nav panel. Yeap you must remove that panel too.
3) Lastly is a bolt at far stbd end of grab bar. lay on floor and with a 1/2" socket remove bolt. This is the first and last fastener in the process. Repeat what I said! First and last. If you didn't hear me then you will fight that bolt starting process. Get it?
Next, For the switch and breaker panel, again lay on back and reach up and wind out the wing nuts.
You might also acess the left side wing nut through center previously removed panel.
Once the very large piece wants to fall to the bottom of helm, using Phillips screw driver, wind out attaching screws from the back side. I believe 8 Phillips screws in each of the switch panel as well as the breaker switch panel.
Moving on you should now have three major pieces laying somewhere. Chrome handle bar, Worthless kick panel at helm, and the switch and breaker panel large piece.
Two left....... You must remove the front panel mounted electronics to gain access to the wing nuts that secure the following two pieces. Again. You must remove electronics for your hands to be able to have access to the wing nuts that secure the instrument panel piece below gauges but above the aged electronics. Understand? Hand working room is what we require for the last two pieces.
So hopefully you know have the smallest piece of upolstry trim joined with the other two items.
Last in line requires sealant cutting and removal. The very top most upolstry item is last. Its sealed with clear RTC. That must be cut. Additionally wing nuts behind panel as well. Easy Pieezy right?
Since I've done this multiple times its a 35 minuet job for me. I did my four pieces in white. Not all that happy. I'll take pictures at first chance.

Cold night but feel sure were warmer than most this Feb 16 2021 night.
Four items I await in mail. Many more I'm sure.
1) Michigan Motorz sending me proper side orientation oil dip sticks which should allow me to check oil level from each motor from rear of engine at transmissions from center. Hopeful they get this right as it requires lots of pieces. Banjo Fittings, brackets most importantly the plugs for the built oil pan dip stick.
Mark IV cast aluminum pan rock by comparison to new engine style stamped steel pans in new built engines.
2) Fuel pump mounting - So I'm being sent two fuel pump brackets for a Crusader installation that attach between the engine stringer bracket on the left side of each engine. I'm told no issues.
I'm also told to consider mounting my electric fuel pumps on the stringers. I shared with Michigan Motorz that I refuse this idea. Electric fuel pump will be mounted somehow someway directly on the engine... period.
3) Oil cooler hoses - Major troubles here. As you might know the Generation 5 and 6 454's have traditional oil filter provisions built in whereby the oil filter can be installed and screwed on directly.
This becomes challenging with regards to plumbing issues. So Michigan Motorz work around is they sent me an adapter. Problem is no hose provisions sent with it. So I'm left hanging out to dry to figure this out on my own. I'll probably drop one engine off at a local hydraulic supply hose shop to manufacture the hoses to marine specifications. (Stainless or brass fittings) steel ends won't work.
Sorry to bring to this thread long winded frustration releases but typing calms me down. Cheers

Beech2000 said:

Cold night but feel sure were warmer than most this Feb 16 2021 night.
Four items I await in mail. Many more I'm sure.
1) Michigan Motorz sending me proper side orientation oil dip sticks which should allow me to check oil level from each motor from rear of engine at transmissions from center. Hopeful they get this right as it requires lots of pieces. Banjo Fittings, brackets most importantly the plugs for the built oil pan dip stick.
Mark IV cast aluminum pan rock by comparison to new engine style stamped steel pans in new built engines.
2) Fuel pump mounting - So I'm being sent two fuel pump brackets for a Crusader installation that attach between the engine stringer bracket on the left side of each engine. I'm told no issues.
I'm also told to consider mounting my electric fuel pumps on the stringers. I shared with Michigan Motorz that I refuse this idea. Electric fuel pump will be mounted somehow someway directly on the engine... period.
3) Oil cooler hoses - Major troubles here. As you might know the Generation 5 and 6 454's have traditional oil filter provisions built in whereby the oil filter can be installed and screwed on directly.
This becomes challenging with regards to plumbing issues. So Michigan Motorz work around is they sent me an adapter. Problem is no hose provisions sent with it. So I'm left hanging out to dry to figure this out on my own. I'll probably drop one engine off at a local hydraulic supply hose shop to manufacture the hoses to marine specifications. (Stainless or brass fittings) steel ends won't work.
Sorry to bring to this thread long winded frustration releases but typing calms me down. Cheers

Click to expand...

We are having some extremely uncommon weather here in middle TN, have been below freezing for several days and have snow/ice with more coming down now. Been closely monitoring my engine room temp, and cabin temp. Very thankful to have the sensors tied to my phone where I can see what the temps are at anytime. Several marinas on the lake have had docks sink due to the weight of the snow and ice, luckily my marina has held up great with no damage. Gonna be back to the 50's and 60's starting Sunday thank GOD! Below are some pics of the damaged marina and then some of my marina. It very rarely (once every 5 or so years) gets like this here, I don't know how the northerners stand it!

LastCall350 said:

We are having some extremely uncommon weather here in middle TN, have been below freezing for several days and have snow/ice with more coming down now. Been closely monitoring my engine room temp, and cabin temp. Very thankful to have the sensors tied to my phone where I can see what the temps are at anytime. Several marinas on the lake have had docks sink due to the weight of the snow and ice, luckily my marina has held up great with no damage. Gonna be back to the 50's and 60's starting Sunday thank GOD! Below are some pics of the damaged marina and then some of my marina. It very rarely (once every 5 or so years) gets like this here, I don't know how the northerners stand it!

Click to expand...

Wow,
Funny too because just 3 hours south east of you, We are unseasonably warm with nothing but rain. We usually at least get one good snow per year but thus far only a couple of dustings and thank god no ice storms. Glad to hear your Dock fared well.
Tell me about remote sensors?

Beech2000 said:

Wow,
Funny too because just 3 hours south east of you, We are unseasonably warm with nothing but rain. We usually at least get one good snow per year but thus far only a couple of dustings and thank god no ice storms. Glad to hear your Dock fared well.
Tell me about remote sensors?

Click to expand...

Man I'm ready for it to be over with, we are almost out of the woods.

The set up I use is a brand called sensor push. I bought it all off of Amazon, you buy the gateway(the brain), and then buy however many sensors you want. Connect the gateway to WiFi, and download the app. Super simple and works great.