420/44 DB Owners Club

Can anyone tell me the procedure to remove the sliding glass door to the Salon, and then replace the wheels? Are they using special wheels?
Thanks
I removed our door a few years back due to sliding somewhat roughly and a lot of grinding noise. Due to lack of easy locating new roller I just swapped them from side to side. This worked for awhile. After a couple years the rough & grind returned. A couple months ago I gave it a serious look and discovered the aluminum track had mushroomed from years of the steel rollers rolling back & forth. Without even removing the door I was able to hand sand both sides of the profile till the mushroomed burr fell off each side, then knocked off the sharp edges. Now rolls like new! Figure I’m good for another 10 years!
 
Can anyone tell me the procedure to remove the sliding glass door to the Salon, and then replace the wheels? Are they using special wheels?
Thanks

I was able to lift my door off like any other sliding glass door and replace my rollers easily. I was even lucky enough to find the rollers at Home Depot...they were exactly the same and even the adjusters worked. They cost $15 each. When does that ever happen with a boat? Good luck!
 
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Thanks guys, good info. Hopefully mine will just lift off and find new rollers at my local store a short ways away!
 
I removed our door a few years back due to sliding somewhat roughly and a lot of grinding noise. Due to lack of easy locating new roller I just swapped them from side to side. This worked for awhile. After a couple years the rough & grind returned. A couple months ago I gave it a serious look and discovered the aluminum track had mushroomed from years of the steel rollers rolling back & forth. Without even removing the door I was able to hand sand both sides of the profile till the mushroomed burr fell off each side, then knocked off the sharp edges. Now rolls like new! Figure I’m good for another 10 years!
Also, we've had pretty good luck with Boeshield T-9 spray lube on the sliding door track, use it twice a year. The door is operating much more smoothly.
 
I should be getting my new to me boat delivered tomorrow, and have heard from the captain about a few issues during the trip that will require me to do a little wire chasing between the flybridge and below. Not having spent anytime aboard exploring the "innards" yet, can someone tell me how the wiring is routed between the bridge and below? How easy or difficult is it to pull wires if need be?
Thank you!
 
Last summer there were times my galley refrigerator was having trouble keeping cool. I believe it is the original and I am not a big fan of it...frosts up a lot, loud, slow to cool.

I did a quick search here and didn't see any posts about alternatives to the stock Norcold (I thought there were, perhaps I am just not finding them).

Has anyone replaced their Norcold with an alternative?
 
Last summer there were times my galley refrigerator was having trouble keeping cool. I believe it is the original and I am not a big fan of it...frosts up a lot, loud, slow to cool.

I did a quick search here and didn't see any posts about alternatives to the stock Norcold (I thought there were, perhaps I am just not finding them).

Has anyone replaced their Norcold with an alternative?
I replaced my galley fridge with the Vitrifrigo. Super quiet, unlike the Norcold. Get's very cold too. We LOVE it. Duel power (12/24Vdc - 100-240Vac 50/60Hz). I never thought I'd buy anything Italian for the boat, but this unit is quiet and the freezer compartment is larger. Double check the Dems, but mine was a perfect replacement size. Oh..We don't like the handles...small and takes a while to get used to. Save your Norcold Ice bucket. It fits perfectly in the new unit.

Vitrifrigo Front-Loading Black Refrigerator DP150IBD4-F-1 Surface Flan – MMarine Online
 
I removed our door a few years back due to sliding somewhat roughly and a lot of grinding noise. Due to lack of easy locating new roller I just swapped them from side to side. This worked for awhile. After a couple years the rough & grind returned. A couple months ago I gave it a serious look and discovered the aluminum track had mushroomed from years of the steel rollers rolling back & forth. Without even removing the door I was able to hand sand both sides of the profile till the mushroomed burr fell off each side, then knocked off the sharp edges. Now rolls like new! Figure I’m good for another 10 years!
Thanks for the tip. Mine has done the same thing and wondered if I could just file them down.
 
Last summer there were times my galley refrigerator was having trouble keeping cool. I believe it is the original and I am not a big fan of it...frosts up a lot, loud, slow to cool.

I did a quick search here and didn't see any posts about alternatives to the stock Norcold (I thought there were, perhaps I am just not finding them).

Has anyone replaced their Norcold with an alternative?
Hi Brian, check around posts 1401.
 
Last summer there were times my galley refrigerator was having trouble keeping cool. I believe it is the original and I am not a big fan of it...frosts up a lot, loud, slow to cool.

I did a quick search here and didn't see any posts about alternatives to the stock Norcold (I thought there were, perhaps I am just not finding them).

Has anyone replaced their Norcold with an alternative?

You might look at Vitrifrigo (sp) defender marine was where I got it and seemed decent but sold that boat and need to replace both fridge and freezer on my 420-just googled it:
https://mmarineonline.com/products/...MIicHOrdOA7wIVjrWzCh3YVALlEAQYAiABEgInvPD_BwE
 
Thanks for the tip. Mine has done the same thing and wondered if I could just file them down.
Your welcome for the tip, I thought it over a little more & remembered I did have the sliding panel out at the time. Just remove the screws in the plastic spacer above the panel, remove the spacer the lift the door & swing the bottom out. Doable alone but much easier with a helper.
Steve
 
Anyone know the coolant filter part number from fleet guard for the 8.3 M?
Thanks
 
I should be getting my new to me boat delivered tomorrow, and have heard from the captain about a few issues during the trip that will require me to do a little wire chasing between the flybridge and below. Not having spent anytime aboard exploring the "innards" yet, can someone tell me how the wiring is routed between the bridge and below? How easy or difficult is it to pull wires if need be?
Thank you!
Boataholic, it's easy but a b-ich. Depending what you are trying to accomplish years 04 to 09, let's start at the dash. My is a 07.
Pull GPS out to gain dash upper access.
Open door below wheel, lower access.
Take access cover off, right of lower access door.
Take deck light off on starboard wall, to the right of the lower access panel.
In the salon, take the TV off the wall.
Unscrew wall from cabinet.
Full access to all wiring in the back right corner coming down from bridge.

Okay, now the fun begins. Again, my example is from the dash to run new wires. Hand fish the wire as you want it to lay behind the dash all the way to the light you pulled. With your fingers, pull the wire thru the small whole all the way. Now attach that wire to a fish. With a flashlight look in the hole down and to the right. You will see a conduit with wires entering it. Feed the fish and wire there.
A second person below in the salon with a flash light looking up in deep right corner watches for the tip of the fish to show up. Go slow as the pipe doesn't turn down just straight back. At the point you see the fish, not easy. If you have small hands or a hook, pull the fish down. I could only use two fingers to reach, pinch and pull, not my thumb... ugh.
Easier said than done but that's about it.

Suggestion, run a wire or two along the main wire you are fishing. These may serve you well with future installations, pull and play!

Hope this helps!

Mark
 
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Boataholic, it's easy but a b-ich. Depending what you are trying to accomplish years 04 to 09, let's start at the dash. My is a 07.
Pull GPS out to gain dash upper access.
Open door below wheel, lower access.
Take access cover off, right of lower access door.
Take deck light off on starboard wall, to the right of the lower access panel.
In the salon, take the TV off the wall.
Unscrew wall from cabinet.
Full access to all wiring in the back right corner coming down from bridge.

Okay, now the fun begins. Again, my example is from the dash to run new wires. Hand fish the wire as you want it to lay behind the dash all the way to the light you pulled. With your fingers, pull the wire thru the small whole all the way. Now attach that wire to a fish. With a flashlight look in the hole down and to the right. You will see a conduit with wires entering it. Feed the fish and wire there.
A second person below in the salon with a flash light looking up in deep right corner watches for the tip of the fish to show up. Go slow as the pipe doesn't turn down just straight back. At the point you see the fish, not easy. If you have small hands or a hook, pull the fish down. I could only use two fingers to reach, pinch and pull, not my thumb... ugh.
Easier said than done but that's about it.

Suggestion, run a wire or two along the main wire you are fishing. These may serve you well with future installations, pull and play!

Hope this helps!

Mark
That’s awesome info, thank you!
 
Anyone know the coolant filter part number from fleet guard for the 8.3 M?
Thanks
The coolant contains SCA additives which prevent cavitation and resulting pitting to the engine. The filters contain those additives in varying concentrations depending on part number. If coolant is new and is precharged with additives, such as the Fleetguard ES Compleat, then use filter WF 2077 which has no additives. Then test every year to see what filter to put on. If your coolant isn’t new, then you will need to test it with a test strip to determine which filter to install.
 
The coolant contains SCA additives which prevent cavitation and resulting pitting to the engine. The filters contain those additives in varying concentrations depending on part number. If coolant is new and is precharged with additives, such as the Fleetguard ES Compleat, then use filter WF 2077 which has no additives. Then test every year to see what filter to put on. If your coolant isn’t new, then you will need to test it with a test strip to determine which filter to install.
Wow, I had no idea. I guess I need to go get some test strips and check it out. Can you recommend a source to purchase those test strips from?
I still have lots to learn on the new to me diesel engines! Thanks for the help.
 
Wow, I had no idea. I guess I need to go get some test strips and check it out. Can you recommend a source to purchase those test strips from?
I still have lots to learn on the new to me diesel engines! Thanks for the help.
Cummins Parts Dept.

Also go online to Cummins Quickserve, register, and enter your engine serial #'s and see all the parts for your engines...
 

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