Westerbeke 8.0 BTDA kicking my arse

20amp circuit breaker was popped and reset. Gen starts but need preheat on to run. I jumped the wires (instead of the 8v fuse that keeps blowing and jumper was hot so something is shorted out. I have the remote plug removed and running from the gen panel.
Read my last paragraph in post #22 above. The remote switches have to be connected with the remote Start switch in the Run position for the generator to keep running. Also, suggest you remove the diode and test it.
 
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I’ll second Bill. Look at the Diode. It seems like these have reached their design life...seeing more of this same set of problems.
 
Also your voltmeter on the generator is likely bad. I had two fail on two separate generators at about the same time (1200 hours). Same symptom as yours. Read 12-13v with no voltage applied. It’s easy to pull off the gauge panel and check the voltage at the gauge with a multimeter.
 
Also your voltmeter on the generator is likely bad. I had two fail on two separate generators at about the same time (1200 hours). Same symptom as yours. Read 12-13v with no voltage applied. It’s easy to pull off the gauge panel and check the voltage at the gauge with a multimeter.
will the voltmeter ground out the system? I'm looking for why I keep blowing fuses? I pulled the fuse out and used a jumper but the alligator clips are hot to the touch. so thinking i damaged something when I ran it for an hour with the preheat on. I think I have the 2 relay model on wiring diagram 36412.
 
If the diode failed, it allows a small amount of current to flow through the sensors, they are grounded. That current may fry them.


I think I had several sensors fried by the time I was troubleshooting, and trying to figure it out took me a month.
 
If the diode failed, it allows a small amount of current to flow through the sensors, they are grounded. That current may fry them.


I think I had several sensors fried by the time I was troubleshooting, and trying to figure it out took me a month.
Hey Dave - how do you get to "they are grounded"? It should be all B+ routed through them right? That B+ feeds the coil of relay K2 which when energized provides power to the fuel solenoid and fuel pump. The Diode provides a B+ bypass to energize K2 when preheat is pressed. The only current through the sensor switches and the diode is that to actuate relay K2; which is nothing.
 
Hey Dave - how do you get to "they are grounded"? It should be all B+ routed through them right? That B+ feeds the coil of relay K2 which when energized provides power to the fuel solenoid and fuel pump. The Diode provides a B+ bypass to energize K2 when preheat is pressed. The only current through the sensor switches and the diode is that to actuate relay K2; which is nothing.
 
I was thinking the switches are screwed to the block, and current would flow to ground. I may be wrong but thought at the time that was the failure mode...
 
Oh joy I get to do this again. The one I fixed was on my buddies 400DB. On my five day winter trip to FL and mine shutdown not five minutes from leaving my home port. Same symptoms. My generator has 1240 hours on it. My buddies had 1220 hours. Westerbeke should just put a sticker on these that’s says “unit will self destruct at 1200 hours”.
 
Oh joy I get to do this again. The one I fixed was on my buddies 400DB. On my five day winter trip to FL and mine shutdown not five minutes from leaving my home port. Same symptoms. My generator has 1240 hours on it. My buddies had 1220 hours. Westerbeke should just put a sticker on these that’s says “unit will self destruct at 1200 hours”.

Im pretty sure mine was right about the same.
 
I just replaced the diode. It’s very awkward to get to and replace so I made it a serviceable part. I ran wires from the terminals to bullet connectors. Then I put the matching bullet connectors on the diode and plugged it in. Zip tied it to the center wiring bundle. You can see the zip tie in the center of the picture. Haven’t tested it yet. Too scared. Ha!
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Crap. That didn’t fix it. Only thing left to override is the exhaust switch. I have the oil pressure and temp switches jumpered. The temp switch was replaced last year for this same reason.
 
Well. Looks like my record is now 2-1 against Westerbeke. They’ve beaten me this time. I replaced the diode and bypassed all three shutdown switches. Still blows fuse as soon as it starts up. Guess I gotta find a repair expert here in the FT Pierce/Stuart area.

What’s this? Fuel shutoff solenoid? Interesting the very back has bulged out a bit at the wiring.
B895FC05-166E-48E3-ADAA-DA6A8DFCD00E.jpeg
 
Well. Looks like my record is now 2-1 against Westerbeke. They’ve beaten me this time. I replaced the diode and bypassed all three shutdown switches. Still blows fuse as soon as it starts up. Guess I gotta find a repair expert here in the FT Pierce/Stuart area.

What’s this? Fuel shutoff solenoid? Interesting the very back has bulged out a bit at the wiring.
View attachment 117988
Well if that is shorted it will blow the fuse (I didn't know there was a fuse) or that 20amp circuit breaker. It is the fuel solenoid.
 
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I realized I had not tested the original diode I removed. I just dug it out of the trash and tested it. Definitely bad. Getting 0.000v in both directions. A spare New diode tests 0.5v forward biased and OL reverse biased as it should. Now I need to remove the diode I installed and see if it’s still good or something also killed it. If still good then the original failed diode took something else out and I haven’t figured out what yet.

So I haven’t given up yet!
 
Well if that is shorted it will blow the fuse (I didn't know there was a fuse) or that 20amp circuit breaker. It is the fuel solenoid.
Tom what is this. It’s inline on the wiring to the fuel solenoid. Also my recommendation to everyone is to replace that diode as a preventative maintenance item every 1000 hours. Don’t wait for it to fail.
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Tom what is this. It’s inline on the wiring to the fuel solenoid. Also my recommendation to everyone is to replace that diode as a preventative maintenance item every 1000 hours. Don’t wait for it to fail.
View attachment 117991
I don't know. Is it a resistor for the hold and run voltage on the solenoid?
"Made in China".... I doubt original from WB.
 
I don't know. Is it a resistor for the hold and run voltage on the solenoid?
"Made in China".... I doubt original from WB.
two wires go to the fuel solenoid from what I know. One in that provides the +12DC from the sensor loop and then from there (the fuel solenoid) to the alternator field terminal.
 

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