Transom lights.

What else is on that circuit breaker?
To add at 12 volts each lamp draws 5 amps right? As your boat is 12 volt systems then you are drawing a total of 15 amps just with the lighting.....
 
SKybolt said:
I also have those exact lights. They draw over 5 amps each. So your 15+ amps continuous draw and that is why your breaker is popping. It does not need to be replaced because of this.

What I did to wire these up might be a bit over kill but I would highly recommend this and is in line with Lumitec's wiring recomendation's.

I used Anchor 10ga tinned paired wire (white pvc jacket) with a Blue Sea 25amp bilge breaker wired directly to the battery switch (always left on). That powers a water proof box with two stainless steel bus bars in it and the light's connect to the bus bars both + and -. The orange wires for the lights are ran back (from the box) to the helm and are connected to my digital switching and a momentary switch to manually turn them on as well. This ensures you can leave them on for days without issue, except your battery may not like that, but the wiring will be sound and safe.
Click to expand...

Ok. This is part of my question list to the installer.

As I read the Amps it says 2.5 on 24 amps. I believe my boat is wired to run 24 amps based on the battery set up.
(But I don't know that for certain) As such, I was using the 2.5 amp number and rounding to 3 and said to myself that's still only 9 amps and the breaker should be fine. Obviously not. I think this may indeed be the issue as you've stated.

Could it be that I have two house batteries wired in series (or is it parallel?) that would mean I still only have 12 volts but two batteries? In other words I don't necessarily have a 24 volt set up. (I'm learning).

The wire,,, the new wire is a white jacketed wire that I believe is 10ga. Again, I will check when we revisit the boat.

From there, I'm lost with the rest of your set up. Not because of your description but because of my lack of understanding. I'm anxious to get back out to the boat and get this issue resolved. Many thanks for you help with what you've provided here Skybolt.
 
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ttmott said:
What else is on that circuit breaker?
To add at 12 volts each lamp draws 5 amps right? As your boat is 12 volt systems then you are drawing a total of 15 amps just with the lighting.....
Click to expand...
I don't think anything. The switch at the helm and the breaker are labeled "AFT Accessory".
Prior to having the lights installed this switch operated nothing.

On second thought, just because that switch didn't operate anything....still means that there could be something else on that circuit? Or could that breaker be dedicated to that switch solely?
 
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Skybolt, is this similar to your sub panel set up?
 

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You are pulling 15 amps. The boat is a 12v system. If you had those professionally installed the tech should have known this. You will need to move one to another breaker.
 
If you want to check the wiring for a short, Just disconnect all the lights at the lights ( Remove the light from the circuit ) then turn on the light switch if it trips the breaker then there is a short in the wiring if it stays on then it is in the lights or a over load circuit.
Does it stay on for a while or does it trip the breaker right away.
 
Spark600 said:
If you want to check the wiring for a short, Just disconnect all the lights at the lights ( Remove the light from the circuit ) then turn on the light switch if it trips the breaker then there is a short in the wiring if it stays on then it is in the lights or a over load circuit.
Does it stay on for a while or does it trip the breaker right away.
Click to expand...

The OP states in the first post that they stay on for 4 mins then trip breaker.
 
The lights are tripping the circuit breaker. Your installer placed too much demand on the circuit breaker.
  • Your boat operates on 12 volts.
  • The circuit breaker he/they connected the lighting to is 15 Amp rated (the ACC circuit breaker)
  • Each light requires 5 amps at 12 volts or 2.5 amps at 24 volts. As your boat is 12 volts the lights each require 5 amps.
  • You have three lights so 3X5=15 amps.
  • 15 amps demand on a 15 amp circuit breaker will trip the circuit breaker in a short amount of time.

As it appears the installer errored on the circuit current rating I would also question the wire gauge installed.
Also, the installer should have installed and labeled a dedicated circuit breaker for the underwater lighting.

Just so you know typical circuit breakers do not instantly trip - there is a overcurrent curve.
PushButton_CB.jpg
 
LClifton said:
Skybolt, is this similar to your sub panel set up?
Click to expand...

I used two of these bus bars in a water tight box mounted above the lights and steering on the back transom in the bilge.

These lights draw 5 amps each @ 12v dc. As mentioned your boat is 12v dc. I connected these in the three wire configuration with the 25amp breaker (previous post) on the red 12v feed wire and ran the orange wire back to the helm. It is the diagram labeled 3 wire connection in Lumitec's instructions.

The sub panel you posted is not really made to be switched or bilge mounted. Some installer's do not read the instructions or understand them properly.

This is from their instructions:
"Due to the high lumen output of the SeaBlazeX2 light, sufficiently rated wiring and electrical
components must be used to minimize voltage drop to the lights. When connecting multiple
SeaBlazeX2 lights to a common switch this becomes even more critical. THE TYPICAL
RECOMMENDATION IS TO SELECT WIRING SYSTEM COMPONENTS TO ENSURE THAT VOLTAGE DROP
FROM POWER SOURCE TO THE LIGHTS DOES NOT EXCEED 3%. To simplify the installation on vessels
with multiple lights Lumitec has introduced a remote switch internal to the SBX2 light, allowing for
less expensive low current wire and components to be used during the installation."

If you use the 25A breaker as I did, I would recommend using 10 gauge wire to feed the bus bars. You can use 14/16 gauge to extend each light if needed. I used 14 gauge to extend the lights and back to the helm. The wire back to the helm is very low current and could be 16ga. ABYC ratting's don't allow less then 16ga wire to be used.

My boat neighbor had had his installer re-wire three times for these light because he thought I was crazy about how to wire these, just before Labor day he asked me what he needed to order and how to connect the lights properly. Because my three lights were brighter then his five.
 
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ttmott said:
The lights are tripping the circuit breaker. Your installer placed too much demand on the circuit breaker.
  • Your boat operates on 12 volts.
  • The circuit breaker he/they connected the lighting to is 15 Amp rated (the ACC circuit breaker)
  • Each light requires 5 amps at 12 volts or 2.5 amps at 24 volts. As your boat is 12 volts the lights each require 5 amps.
  • You have three lights so 3X5=15 amps.
  • 15 amps demand on a 15 amp circuit breaker will trip the circuit breaker in a short amount of time.

As it appears the installer errored on the circuit current rating I would also question the wire gauge installed.
Also, the installer should have installed and labeled a dedicated circuit breaker for the underwater lighting.

Just so you know typical circuit breakers do not instantly trip - there is a overcurrent curve.
PushButton_CB.jpg
Click to expand...
Yup. This is the ultimate conclusion. I can’t thank you all enough. I’m going to fix it on our next trip. I’ll keep you all informed and perhaps someone else will benefit from this.
 
SKybolt said:
I used two of these bus bars in a water tight box mounted above the lights and steering on the back transom in the bilge.

These lights draw 5 amps each @ 12v dc. As mentioned your boat is 12v dc. I connected these in the three wire configuration with the 25amp breaker (previous post) on the red 12v feed wire and ran the orange wire back to the helm. It is the diagram labeled 3 wire connection in Lumitec's instructions.

The sub panel you posted is not really made to be switched or bilge mounted. Some installer's do not read the instructions or understand them properly.

This is from their instructions:
"Due to the high lumen output of the SeaBlazeX2 light, sufficiently rated wiring and electrical
components must be used to minimize voltage drop to the lights. When connecting multiple
SeaBlazeX2 lights to a common switch this becomes even more critical. THE TYPICAL
RECOMMENDATION IS TO SELECT WIRING SYSTEM COMPONENTS TO ENSURE THAT VOLTAGE DROP
FROM POWER SOURCE TO THE LIGHTS DOES NOT EXCEED 3%. To simplify the installation on vessels
with multiple lights Lumitec has introduced a remote switch internal to the SBX2 light, allowing for
less expensive low current wire and components to be used during the installation."

If you use the 25A breaker as I did, I would recommend using 10 gauge wire to feed the bus bars. You can use 14/16 gauge to extend each light if needed. I used 14 gauge to extend the lights and back to the helm. The wire back to the helm is very low current and could be 16ga. ABYC ratting's don't allow less then 16ga wire to be used.

My boat neighbor had had his installer re-wire three times for these light because he thought I was crazy about how to wire these, just before Labor day he asked me what he needed to order and how to connect the lights properly. Because my three lights were brighter then his five.
Click to expand...
This situation has been a great opportunity to learn. I’m not happy with the guy that installed them but with all this good help—-I’m gonna get it fixed.
 
Part of the problem is Lumitec lies on their data sheets. The X2s pull more than 5 amps, more like 6 amps from my testimg so you are asking 18 amps through a 15 amp breaker which is about right you'll get a few minutes before it overheats and trips. Normally manufacturers list max current. One if the few times I see they underestimate current, but I guess their marketeers needed better battery, lumen and effeciency numbers.
 
pyro said:
Part of the problem is Lumitec lies on their data sheets. The X2s pull more than 5 amps, more like 6 amps from my testimg so you are asking 18 amps through a 15 amp breaker which is about right you'll get a few minutes before it overheats and trips. Normally manufacturers list max current. One if the few times I see they underestimate current, but I guess their marketeers needed better battery, lumen and effeciency numbers.
Click to expand...

Actually their data sheet is correct. It lists 5 amp draw in the upper right and on the 3 wire connect it states 6 amps. I agree that is confusing. But I believe who ever designed their web site is to blame for the bad information. Saying they lie is a bit steep, don't you think?

https://www.lumiteclighting.com/amfile/file/download/file/41/product/52357/
 
SKybolt said:
Actually their data sheet is correct. It lists 5 amp draw in the upper right and on the 3 wire connect it states 6 amps. I agree that is confusing. But I believe who ever designed their web site is to blame for the bad information. Saying they lie is a bit steep, don't you think?

https://www.lumiteclighting.com/amfile/file/download/file/41/product/52357/
Click to expand...
Yes, 5 and 6 amp are both listed. For the record I called them and they reached out twice explaining there was an error on the site regarding a specific model. (The model I purchased). The error was that the lights were listed as a 2.5 amp draw. (On both 12 and 24 volt). The model that was nearly identical was listed at 5 amps (12V) and 2.5 (24V), which is what threw me.
When I say it threw me...believe me it doesn't take much when it come to electrical. :)
They claimed they were going to correct it.
Pretty certain they didn't mean any harm by it.

Question, the way this picture shows the wiring,, is this called wiring in parallel?
 

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LClifton said:
... Question, the way this picture shows the wiring,, is this called wiring in parallel?
Click to expand...

Yes, the red and black are to each other and the orange is separately. Although that drawing makes it look like they all are because of the battery.
 
The red and black need to be of a gauge to carry the anticipated current which should be 25 amps (the circuit breaker size).
The orange is a low current switch leg and can be 16 Gauge routed to the on and off switch. The switch leg would probably use a 5 amp circuit breaker or whatever suitable for the wire gauge and length.
 
SKybolt said:
Yes, the red and black are to each other and the orange is separately. Although that drawing makes it look like they all are because of the battery.
Click to expand...
This is true. This is why I asked. The drawing does not depict what I have in my mind for wiring to the buss.
 
ttmott said:
The red and black need to be of a gauge to carry the anticipated current which should be 25 amps (the circuit breaker size).
The orange is a low current switch leg and can be 16 Gauge routed to the on and off switch. The switch leg would probably use a 5 amp circuit breaker or whatever suitable for the wire gauge and length.
Click to expand...
This is exactly what SKybolt shared with me via email. You guys are incredible. I realize this is plain easy for you guys but for me it’s like —- I don’t wanna mess up.
anyway there are two wires from the switch and only one wire left over — the orange wire. Do I attach one side of the switch (with two wires that run inside the bilge from a previous accessory) to the red buss to power the switch?
 
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