Official 240 Sundancer Thread

Correct, I am at the lake. Here is another question, if it is set up for pump out, can I somehow remove the tank manually to dump or will it spill everywhere when I disconnect the hoses?
 
Anyone? How can I manually disconnect holding tank to empty? I'd like to have that option since I might not like to pay $7 to pump out on occasion.
 
Anyone? How can I manually disconnect holding tank to empty? I'd like to have that option since I might not like to pay $7 to pump out on occasion.

I think at this point you have us.........me confused. Are you talking about a portable head, installed head or something else altogether?

A portable head is designed to be taken apart so that the lower (black water) can be emptied.

An installed tank has either a maserator pump and overboard to pump out, and/or has a shore pump out connection on deck.
You need to tell us what you have.
 
Greetings 240 owners! Just posted a question in the main Sport Cruiser forum but figured I would post a link here as it involves a 1998 240DA(http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/58411-Another-240DA-towing-question). Question involves the towing weight of the boat as I am looking to purchase it (I know, I know...if you have to ask get a 3/4 ton...that's just not in the cards right now). Any one have advice as to what to look out for on a 15 year old 240 Sundancer? The cabin door is very heavy but hopefully I can work on that myself; going for a sea trial next week then I will hopefully get it to the local dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. (I've debated a survey but as the negotiated price is under 10k it seems to not be needed). Boat has been repowered with a 383 mag MPI (should be quick!) and has a Bravo III that needs cleaning and paint. Pictures here (https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=E42119AB1681856F!123&authkey=!ANHJV_fDIluQHOQ) Thanks for any suggestions!
 
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It's a Sanipot with the tubes so it is actually set up for pump out. I figured it out, thanks.
 
Greetings 240 owners! Just posted a question in the main Sport Cruiser forum but figured I would post a link here as it involves a 1998 240DA(http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/58411-Another-240DA-towing-question). Question involves the towing weight of the boat as I am looking to purchase it (I know, I know...if you have to ask get a 3/4 ton...that's just not in the cards right now). Any one have advice as to what to look out for on a 15 year old 240 Sundancer? The cabin door is very heavy but hopefully I can work on that myself; going for a sea trial next week then I will hopefully get it to the local dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. (I've debated a survey but as the negotiated price is under 10k it seems to not be needed). Boat has been repowered with a 383 mag MPI (should be quick!) and has a Bravo III that needs cleaning and paint. Pictures here (https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=E42119AB1681856F!123&authkey=!ANHJV_fDIluQHOQ) Thanks for any suggestions!

Hey Tubthumper...boy are you in luck! I purchased the same boat in February so I am learning a lot about it although I didn't get mine for as cheap as you are getting yours. Supply in demand thing here in AZ. Anyways, I tow the boat mildly wet with my 2006 F150 FX4 4X4...no water in the holding tank, 3/4 tank fuel with a bunch of carry on crap including bedding, tools stuff like that. The trailer is steel, not aluminum so it's pretty heavy. I would imagine I am towing somewhere in the neighborhood of about 7500-8000 lbs. It tows pretty well, you don't forget it's behind you, that's for sure. Uphill is not too fun but in Florida I don't think you will run into that too much. My truck with the options will tow just North of 10k but that includes occupants in the truck and all their gear as well but that is a max so you have to figure about 9k is pushing it pretty good and since I have the FX4, I have the additional transmission cooler. Most people I know that have had this boat are happy with it, other than the handling characteristics which can be a little touchy. I'm sure you can read previous posts about it but suffice to say, the 8.5" beam is not ideal for a boat of this size with how much of it is out of the water. Since I use mine on a lake with about 1' to 2' wakes, it really isn't an issue to me. In fact, I don't even have to play with the trim tabs, just trim the engine and it gets right up on plane relatively quickly for it's size. I'd imagine with the 383 it will get up and go, mine has the 5.7 EFI and it doesn't pretty decent considering again, the size and weight.
 
Greetings 240 owners! Just posted a question in the main Sport Cruiser forum but figured I would post a link here as it involves a 1998 240DA(http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/58411-Another-240DA-towing-question). Question involves the towing weight of the boat as I am looking to purchase it (I know, I know...if you have to ask get a 3/4 ton...that's just not in the cards right now). Any one have advice as to what to look out for on a 15 year old 240 Sundancer? The cabin door is very heavy but hopefully I can work on that myself; going for a sea trial next week then I will hopefully get it to the local dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. (I've debated a survey but as the negotiated price is under 10k it seems to not be needed). Boat has been repowered with a 383 mag MPI (should be quick!) and has a Bravo III that needs cleaning and paint. Pictures here (https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=E42119AB1681856F!123&authkey=!ANHJV_fDIluQHOQ) Thanks for any suggestions!

tubthumper. congratulations on the boat. My 06 would be a different weight, however I used to tow with a 01 Yukon, 4.10 gears 5.3 motor, did ok. My boat weighs about 7-8k sitting on a aluminum trailer. You should be ok with your set up. I would opt for disc brakes on both axles though. As Todd said, it how to stop the load safely is the issue.
 
Hello! The thread has been a bit slow so I thought I would introduce myself - I am taking delivery of a 2006 on the 18th. I purchased from Skipper Bud's and will be dry stacking it at their facility in Milwaukee. Very useful thread and great reading while I wait for winter to end in Wisconsin. Thanks to all who have contributed in the past.
 
Greetings 240 owners! Just posted a question in the main Sport Cruiser forum but figured I would post a link here as it involves a 1998 240DA(http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/58411-Another-240DA-towing-question). Question involves the towing weight of the boat as I am looking to purchase it (I know, I know...if you have to ask get a 3/4 ton...that's just not in the cards right now). Any one have advice as to what to look out for on a 15 year old 240 Sundancer? The cabin door is very heavy but hopefully I can work on that myself; going for a sea trial next week then I will hopefully get it to the local dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. (I've debated a survey but as the negotiated price is under 10k it seems to not be needed). Boat has been repowered with a 383 mag MPI (should be quick!) and has a Bravo III that needs cleaning and paint. Pictures here (https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=E42119AB1681856F!123&authkey=!ANHJV_fDIluQHOQ) Thanks for any suggestions!

Make sure that you have that outdrive removed and looked at closely. There is a lot of corrosion there and it appears it's missing the exhaust bellows. That's a $9k outdrive, make sure it's serviceable. The repower is a great engine, but it also needs some TLC. If the boat has been taken in saltwater you will have some issues as there is no fresh water (read: closed cooling) on that 383. Also check the exhaust risers and manifolds for corrosion.
Best of luck, but I hope the price warrants paying for lots or repairs.
 
Filled my 2012 240DA 260hp bravo 3 with gas and water. Went out by myself and could only get up to around 33mph. Road around for about 30 minutes. Fuel went down almost 10%. Does this seem normal? Was thinking it would go a little faster and burn less fuel. Only 5 hour on engine. Comments appreciated.
 
I have a Bravo 1 drive with the same motor. My boat s*cks getting on plane with full fuel and full water. It's due to the combination of too small an engine with the single prop.

Prior to the purchase, I questioned the drive options with SeaRay Customer Service. Two boats were available at the time with the same engine-- one with a camper pkg. in blue canvas with a Bravo 1 drive vs. the other boat with no camper pkg, black canvas and the Bravo 3. SeaRay explained that I'd need choose between a faster hole-shot with the Bravo 3 but a lower top-end speed versus slower time to plane but slightly more speed at the top-end with the Bravo 1. In hindsight, I should have gotten the Bravo 3 and had the camper canvas made (but black really heats up, too.)

Anyhow, the full tanks add a lot of weight which you may be lugging around needlessly. Also, the trim tabs are extremely sensitive and need only very small adjustments -- which take getting used to.

Try playing with the tabs as you may have them too far down after you get up to speed. Consider reducing the amount to fuel and water to about 1/2 tanks as well -- that's my plan for this season to reduce fuel consumption and to get on plane faster. I may need to fill more often, but realistically how much water and gas do I need for day trips when the gas dock is one canal over?

I also rarely adjust the engine tilt -- the tabs are more than enough IMHO.

-Rocco-

That may make a big difference.
 
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I will try that. I figured full fuel/water may have an impact, just didn't think that much. I keep trim tabs all the way up and only make very tiny adjustments if necessary due to listing. My top RPM was about 4500.
 
Just some numbers:

1. 1 gallon of gas weights a little over 6 lbs. So a full tank of gas for us is about 450 lbs.
2. 1 gallon of water weights 8.35 lbs. So a full tank of water is about 167 lbs.
3. If you reduce them by half, you go down by 308.5 pounds !

I only realized this winter the significance of these numbers. I'm sure it's going to be a noticeable difference this season.

Also, not sure if you have a holding tank for the waste, but that option is another 18 gallons into the mix -- but I'm not going to try to figure out how much poop and pee weighs!


OK, gotta' get back to work....

Keep us up to date on your progress.
 
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I will try that. I figured full fuel/water may have an impact, just didn't think that much. I keep trim tabs all the way up and only make very tiny adjustments if necessary due to listing. My top RPM was about 4500.

4500 RPM is way to slow for that engine. It should top out in excess of 5000 RPM. Have you trimmed your out drive up at all when running on plane? If not, that could be the reason for the slow speed. Once you are up on plane start trimming the drive very gradually. Once you have it trimmed properly, you will feel the boat smooth out and then speed up.

Dave
 
4500 RPM is way to slow for that engine. It should top out in excess of 5000 RPM. Have you trimmed your out drive up at all when running on plane? If not, that could be the reason for the slow speed. Once you are up on plane start trimming the drive very gradually. Once you have it trimmed properly, you will feel the boat smooth out and then speed up.

Dave
Somehow my post didn't stick last night, but I tried to ask if it was trimmed up too. You'll only want to show 1/4 trim up at around 3500 and if you're trying for top speed maybe 3/8 up at WOT.
 
What pitch props do you have. I run 20" uncupped, and sometimes want 19's (which Merc doesn't make). I had a set repitched to 18.5 by Murphy's in Norfolk so when I'm fully loaded I can have more power. The 5.0l motor is 260 hp but at a higher rpm. This motor doesn't have the punch this boat really needs but it makes for a good price point!!

My top speed is around 38-40mph, depending on how I'm loaded.

IF your holeshot is suffering, moving the "celery stick" helps. I moved mine when I bought it. Dave S. figured out that when you are coming on plane, it helps to trim the drive out, hence rasing the bow, which changes the fulcrum point to help the bow get over the hump. Works great! Good job on figuring that out Dave!!!!
 

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