The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

donewithwork said:
Rabyers1, Thanks for giving a shout out, Todd gave me a different name accidently so I could not find you previously. I had a choice to make so talked to 2 mechanics and we basically hashed it out with all the boats they've worked on and drove and decided to go with a 2.0 gear ratio and try the 22 prop then if too big get a used 20. They too stated that the 6.2 is a decider because of the extra performance. We have access to a 20 but I just can't test it now because of me training for the Masters (Senior) track and field competitions (pole vaulting) and bike race training with my 4 races (2 time trials and 2 road races) in 10 days .... plus I have to work on my old 2350 Chaparral to get it out of my back yard and sell to recoup so money.
Also am trying to decide how to configure some new carpeting from Corinthian.. just got a template sent yesterday ...... so I got things to do ...
Click to expand...

If I were to do my carpet again, which as I've said I love, I would make the pattern go wall to wall and not install snaps. But since I have done it to match the factory pattern + the patterns I made for the transom and entry landing, I'm very happy.
 
Todd, I'm thinking of going wall to wall with no snaps because the carpet is heavy and the backing is supposed to hold well. But, are you saying two pieces in the cockpit area or one solid piece ? I don't think a transom carpet would work for me because my yellow lab and I are always in and out of the water and I always find sand and fine dirt on the fiberglass and it is easily washed off. A carpet for me would never be dry.
I am thinking two pieces so I can just lift the rear section when I need to look or get in the engine area but also just cutting a hole for the pedestal base without the slit open area where the fiberglas floor can be seen. Also I will forego the two holes and slit cuts for the rear bench support poles when the seat is out because mine won't be out very much .... I like the more clean look so it doesn't look so busy on the rear floor. I'm thinking of the Desert Sand Specialty Berber which is 36oz and believe yours is the plush 40 oz cut pile. How easy is yours to clean or vacuum because I'm wondering about dog hair and sand removal. I generally go to hot areas (Lake Mead, Mojave and Lake Havasu, also Lake Powell) 90 to 110 degrees with water between 78 and 82 so need a light colored carpet. Also how close to the wall would you put the carpet? Where the edges start turning up ? Cushy carpet just seems real nice on this boat.
 
I would still have two pieces for the cockpit, just wall to wall and so you can get in the engine bay if needed, as you mentioned. My wife and daughter shed hair like a golden retriever, kidding, but it's why I chose the pile. It vacuums easily. I would be as close as a 1/4" as far as how close to the walls.
 
I had one heck of a time making the template because trying to decide as I got to each section exactly how I wanted it to lay down ... I was changing my mind a bit. Then I thought it was all perfect til I cut it all out and layed it back in the cockpit, brother was that a disappointment ! I had the material taped too tight and some things were too short so I eventually Taped some new material on and re-drew the lines and curves and recut. Anyway it all looked good I think when I finished and sent the template off yesterday .... I just hope it comes out correctly.
Another question I like to ask of 260 people with the Marlin ML006761 anchor windlass, I have 3 strand anchor rode (70 ft) (20ft gr chain) and want to put on 250ft total, will this windlass work better or just as well with 8 brait? And do I need to pay for the premium stuff or can I get away with a less expensive rode but still with a rating around 11,000 lb strength?

Phil
 
Nehalennia said:
Now I think I'll be doing this on my boat. I was impressed with the Bluetooth capabilities of the stereo. It worked great.
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I was thinking about upgrading because I wanted Bluetooth but had too many other project going on in the boat so I found a quick fix for the Bluetooth upgrade.

I added the TranzIt Blue (for android). It only required me pulling the head unit and installed inline with the antenna. I powered the unit from the stereo 12v at the circuit panel below and grounded to the block. Now all my music comes from my tablet or phone. The unit is controlled on/off from the app and the FM stereo channel can be selected from there too.

I like that when you turn on the Bluetooth it automatically disconnects the antenna signal for a clean input. Now I can keep my tablet at the helm or in the cabin, I have my FM channel selected and in my presets and all the music I want.

-Kevin
 
Draft question..
I am looking to buy a 98-02 Sundancer. 240DA or 260DA.
I have downloaded the owner manual for each to check draft and bridge clearance.
My dock has some shallow water... under 3 feet at low tide.
Boat will be on a lift, but I want to be able to launch regardless of tide.

For the 260A
It lists Waterline to top of windshield... 5'3"
Keel to top of windshield...7'11"

So seems to me if I subtract I should get
Waterline to keel = 2'8" or 32"

However the specifications list
Draft (stern drive down) 35"
Draft (stern drive up) 22"


But the draft with the drive up should be the same as the keel to waterline distance, no?
So how do they get 22" instead of 32"?

Please help since this makes a difference which boat I get.
Thanks
 
Last edited:
I measured the distance from waterline to the bottom of our skeg this spring...it's 42" with the drive all the way down. If you need less water, you might be able to raise the drive before entering your slip.


stwischu said:
Draft question..
I am looking to buy a 98-02 Sundancer. 240DA or 260DA.
I have downloaded the owner manual for each to check draft and bridge clearance.
My dock has some shallow water... under 3 feet at low tide.
Boat will be on a lift, but I want to be able to launch regardless of tide.

For the 260A
It lists Waterline to top of windshield... 5'3"
Keel to top of windshield...7'11"

So seems to me if I subtract I should get
Waterline to keel = 2'8" or 32"

However the specifications list
Draft (stern drive down) 35"
Draft (stern drive up) 22"


But the draft with the drive up should be the same as the keel to waterline distance, no?
So how do they get 22" instead of 32"?

Please help since this makes a difference which boat I get.
Thanks
Click to expand...
 
Hot water tank question. 99 sea ray 260. Hot water does not seem to be coming out of taps ... the odd squirt is warm but that's it. I opened the drain on the tank and lots of hot water coming out. The cold water is fine coming out of taps
 
If it is happening all the taps then I would look at the hot water PEX tubes and elbows for a sediment blockage leaving the hot water heater. Just watch disconnecting if the water is hot and pressurized I would drop pressure (no shore water and pressure off at the helm) not to get sprayed with the hot water.

-Kevin
 
So last night I finally did something I have not done before - I ran out of gas. Or at least I thought I did. My gauge showed about 1/8 of a tank and I hate to admit it, but I know I have been down in that range before and had no problems. Anyway, was cruising along at 3400 rpm when about a mile from my marina I began to decelerate quickly and then stalled out. Had no choice at that late hour, but to get towed in by my favorite Boat US guy. Today, I carried about 4 gallons of fuel to the boat (no gas at my marina), put 3.5 or so in the tank and filled the fuel water separator. Motor started, ran fine up thru about 3,00 rpm in neutral, then rapidly dropped rpms, then stalled. So, I changed out the fuel water separator and the in-line fuel filter and primed the fuel line and both filters. Started right up and cycled up to over 3,000 rpms (in neutral again). Ran for about 3-4 minutes, lost rpm then stalled. Wouldn't re-start. Both times it stalled, most of the fuel was spent from the fuel water separator filter. I am thinking that I may not have actually run dry on fuel last night, but instead the low tank level caused me to have a blockage somewhere between the fuel tank and the in-line fuel filter. So my plan now is to blow air back thru the line with my portable compressor to see if I can clear it. Anyone have any words of wisdom about this regarding possible causes, things to look for, be aware of, am I on the right track, etc. Of course, we are here at the beach on vacation all this week with a bunch of relatives that want to go boating, so no pressure to get this fixed tomorrow!
 
rabyers1 said:
So last night I finally did something I have not done before - I ran out of gas. Or at least I thought I did. My gauge showed about 1/8 of a tank and I hate to admit it, but I know I have been down in that range before and had no problems. Anyway, was cruising along at 3400 rpm when about a mile from my marina I began to decelerate quickly and then stalled out. Had no choice at that late hour, but to get towed in by my favorite Boat US guy. Today, I carried about 4 gallons of fuel to the boat (no gas at my marina), put 3.5 or so in the tank and filled the fuel water separator. Motor started, ran fine up thru about 3,00 rpm in neutral, then rapidly dropped rpms, then stalled. So, I changed out the fuel water separator and the in-line fuel filter and primed the fuel line and both filters. Started right up and cycled up to over 3,000 rpms (in neutral again). Ran for about 3-4 minutes, lost rpm then stalled. Wouldn't re-start. Both times it stalled, most of the fuel was spent from the fuel water separator filter. I am thinking that I may not have actually run dry on fuel last night, but instead the low tank level caused me to have a blockage somewhere between the fuel tank and the in-line fuel filter. So my plan now is to blow air back thru the line with my portable compressor to see if I can clear it. Anyone have any words of wisdom about this regarding possible causes, things to look for, be aware of, am I on the right track, etc. Of course, we are here at the beach on vacation all this week with a bunch of relatives that want to go boating, so no pressure to get this fixed tomorrow!
Click to expand...

How did this turn out?

I just replaced my water/fuel separator and didn't fill it full of fuel before hand and of course thinking about it afterwards, I should have. So I'll go do that and try again. I don't know why I didn't think about it, before I twisted it back on.
 
Nehalennia said:
How did this turn out?

I just replaced my water/fuel separator and didn't fill it full of fuel before hand and of course thinking about it afterwards, I should have. So I'll go do that and try again. I don't know why I didn't think about it, before I twisted it back on.
Click to expand...
I ended up adding 4 more gallons of fuel to the tank to bring it to 8 total. At the same time I added the correct amount of Seafoam (well, maybe just a tad bit more than the recommended number of ounces on the label). I let the Seafoam work in the tank for about an hour and that did the trick. Engine started right up and has run great ever since.
 
rabyers1 said:
I ended up adding 4 more gallons of fuel to the tank to bring it to 8 total. At the same time I added the correct amount of Seafoam (well, maybe just a tad bit more than the recommended number of ounces on the label). I let the Seafoam work in the tank for about an hour and that did the trick. Engine started right up and has run great ever since.
Click to expand...

Good deal. I didn't get mine restarted tonight, it got dark. I'll get it tomorrow.
 
I removed the fuel/water separator filter this AM and poured it full of fuel. I reinstalled and ran her up to temp, checking for oil and fuel leaks. Vrooom!
Listen to her purr now.


[video]http://vid118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/ToddOlason/Nehalennia%20when%20new%20to%20us%20and%20mods/001_zps726c472a.mp4[/video]
 
Hi Guys new to forum and just bought a 01 260 with a 7.4l mpi. I was wondering if anyone had numbers on fuel consumption and if any other concerns. Thanks
 
rjkasik said:
Hi Guys new to forum and just bought a 01 260 with a 7.4l mpi. I was wondering if anyone had numbers on fuel consumption and if any other concerns. Thanks
Click to expand...

I have a 2001 with the 7.4
Just came back from a long trip (over 1000 Km of cruising) and fuel consumption really depends on conditions. I generally cruise at around 56 to 65 litres per hour burn rate. This give me around 3400 to 3700 rpm and 40 to 52 km per hour. Put another way it is 1.2 to 1.4 litres per km. If the weather gets bad this can get worse.
These numbers are with a full load of gear on board for a 3 week trip and full water and fuel tank and a dingy on the swim platform.
 
Has anyone ever removed a 7.4 litre engine from a 260DA?
I've got a leak in my oil pan so will have to have the engine pulled.. It looks like there is not enough room to slide it forward and lift it. Do I have to take all the pulleys off the front end to get it out?
Any other words of advice before I decide if I want to tackle this myself?
 
I have the dreaded sliding door problem. Has anyone repaired this problem. The upper sliding door truck has come loose.
 
We just completed a repair a loose upper truck this past season.

Instead of pulling the windshield and console off, we decided to attack it from below. With the door open, and the interior cabin ceiling pulled, we drilled a 1/2" hole through the track and cabin ceiling. Then pulled the door closed and unscrewed the trucks via the new access hole( need a long Phillips head to reach it ) replaced the screws with slightly longer ones and sealed the hole with silicone sealant. Perfect fix and relatively pain free. The hardest part was finding the holes again but a mirror and flashlight was the trick.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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