Official 280 Sundancer Thread

I have an 06 with clarion and the cockpit controls should have a speaker button. With or without that button, the clarion sound stays inside cabin (so you don't need a remote switch at helm). Only if you have optional amps and outside speakers does sound go outside. I have that stuff but still have to go inside to turn on amps. It's a screwy set up. In other words why would you want an exterior off on switch to control sound only heard inside?

I wouldn't change anything unless or until you have exterior sound. In my stock 06 system I still have to turn something on both places to get sound in both places.
 
your head unit should be turning on your amps and sound should be inside and out all the time. Helm remote changes volume, stations and mutes.
 
The helm switch does control both AFTER it's turned on inside. Odd thing is that you can tie on the inside unit from the helm, but not the one at the helm.
 
Your amps are not wired correctly. No idea what your trying to say with your second sentence. Amp turn on wire comes directly from head unit
 
I have a question re Ritchie compsss flush mounted on my 06 DA 280. The card seems to have fallen off the pin mount inside the globe. It always wobbled of course, but stabilized under plane. Now the card tilts at almost a 45 degree angle. It eventually settles on the right heading, but even at plane the card drags the globe bottom and isn't close to level. Is the unit serviceable by me? Or do I just replace? I thought Ritchie had a lifetime warranty. It seems like I could access the card from the bottom and straighten it out, (unless the support pin broke) and refill the fluid. But I don't want to remove it unless I have a replacement or unless I know it can be fixed. It does work on some level. I don't know exactly which unit I have but it looks like the 83. A remove and replace would be simple but the cost seems to ba about 100 bucks or more to replace. I would repair the one that has always worked perfectly if I could. But I would spend 100 bucks and a half hour replacing before I spend hours to have a hole in the dash and fail. Any advice appreciated.
 
scoflaw said:
Your amps are not wired correctly. No idea what your trying to say with your second sentence. Amp turn on wire comes directly from head unit
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Yes amp turns on at the head unit, without which you have no speakers outside.
 
Bama said:
Yes amp turns on at the head unit, without which you have no speakers outside.
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You cannot turn on anything but the inside radio from the helm switch. After turning amp on inside then you can go to helm to hear. ITs funny to turn on everything from the helm and hear the sound only inside. Then you must go inside to turn the outside speakers on. If you are inside and don't want the outdoor speakers or amp, you must go to helm to turn the radio on. Its been talked about on this site before no is part of the switch pad system that interfaces with main panel. Those with genies have an extra system.
 
You dont have a speaker picture button on the helm that must be lit to work anything? I do.
 
Yes as long as you have turned on the Amp toggle switch inside, everyhing works from remote switch, but "power up" is only at the main panel switch inside.
 
Bama said:
I have a question re Ritchie compsss flush mounted on my 06 DA 280. The card seems to have fallen off the pin mount inside the globe. It always wobbled of course, but stabilized under plane. Now the card tilts at almost a 45 degree angle. It eventually settles on the right heading, but even at plane the card drags the globe bottom and isn't close to level. Is the unit serviceable by me? Or do I just replace? I thought Ritchie had a lifetime warranty. It seems like I could access the card from the bottom and straighten it out, (unless the support pin broke) and refill the fluid. But I don't want to remove it unless I have a replacement or unless I know it can be fixed. It does work on some level. I don't know exactly which unit I have but it looks like the 83. A remove and replace would be simple but the cost seems to ba about 100 bucks or more to replace. I would repair the one that has always worked perfectly if I could. But I would spend 100 bucks and a half hour replacing before I spend hours to have a hole in the dash and fail. Any advice appreciated.
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Card wobbling around erratically means it's low (or completely out) of fluid. It needs to be filled and sealed, otherwise the compass is somewhat useless as the card wobbles and spins too fast. I don't recall the price, but contact Ritchie and ask them about refurbishing/rebuilding. It will come back to you like new. Once you get that price, then compare to buying new. But, yes, the smaller compasses used in the smaller cruisers aren't terribly expensive to begin with.
 
Thanks. the fluid level is normal. Something else is awry. I wouldn't take it out and send away for weeks of double talk on warranty if I can buy and replace for 150 bucks, but it seems like something that should be DIY fixable. It's more than a wobble and seems to have fallen.
 
Bama said:
Thanks. the fluid level is normal.
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Hmmm. That's strange. These are typically something you never think about because they rarely fail. That's really weird that it's doing what it's doing AND the fluid level is full (no more than a little bubble at the top). I'd probably still give Ritchie a call on Monday and pick their brain a bit. I've never attempted to take one apart, so I can't offer any guidance on the DIY thing. Maybe someone else can. But I do know they have a good/reputable rebuild program.
 
For what it's worth I think I hit a big bump and it disconnected somehow. The fluid might be a millimeter or 2 lower than original but I compared it to my fresh water dash mounted Ritchie (a smaller unit) and the relative size of the bubble was about the same. It's possible an air bubble has been caught underneath the card, and that would be consistent with what I'm seeing. But it does work albeit at 50 pct. thus I'm not going to do without. Does anyone know which unit SR used? Is it still available? I could drop in a new one pretty easily. I think it has a light and electrical hook up beneath but it may not. It may be just luminescent.
 
I may try simply inverting the unit. If my hunch is right, the bubble caught underneath the unit would fix itself.
 
Could be. I can't say that I've ever had that happen - and that includes bigger, and much smaller, boats - smaller boats taking even more of a beating (rock'n'rollin'). But then, that doesn't mean it CAN'T happen, either.

The part list has it listed only as "Flush mount, 4-3/16". It doesn't give me a Ritchie model number.

Does yours have visible mounting screws? If not, access them by removing the upper gauge panel. Once removed, you should find a model number on it.

There will be a simple, small gauge, "2-wire" wire for the light.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Could be. I can't say that I've ever had that happen - and that includes bigger, and much smaller, boats - smaller boats taking even more of a beating (rock'n'rollin'). But then, that doesn't mean it CAN'T happen, either.

The part list has it listed only as "Flush mount, 4-3/16". It doesn't give me a Ritchie model number.

Does yours have visible mounting screws? If not, access them by removing the upper gauge panel. Once removed, you should find a model number on it.

There will be a simple, small gauge, "2-wire" wire for the light.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I live 250 miles from my 280 and forgot to measure the diameter when I left it in dry stack. I guessed a 4 in diameter and yes it has visible screws. It's just a drop in from the top. It has a 45 degree sliding helmet that I honestly don't know what it could do. My guess is to diminish glare. Anyway it will be an easy replacement. I wonder if I should upgrade to some newer technology; I kind of like the flat cards. But I need something that fits into the current hole. Nice to know it's 4.3875
 
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