Remove Westerbeke Genset from a 330DA- sterndrives

John Lienhard

John Lienhard

New Member
Aug 6, 2017
9
Boat Info
Sea Ray 330DA
Engines
7.4l MPI stern drives bravo 1
A few weeks back my Westerbeke 4.5kw generator started smoking like there was a fire. After the smoke cleared, I opened the access panel to the generator and could see that some wires and windings melted. The motor still runs fine, but the generator is no producing electricity obviously. I've noted on this forum that generators have been taken out of the V-drive models by removing the exhaust manifold on the starboard engine, but no talk of anyone with sterndrives.
I'm also wondering if I should rebuild, or replace with a updated model. This generator has always run like a top, but my biggest complaint is that the power that it creates will not run my 100 amp Freedom battery charger, like shorepower does. I can only get 30 amps or less out of the charger on the generator power, opposed to 90amps on shorepower. I am not happy when I am forced to go to a marina to charge batteries, when I rather be on the hook.
0810171302_HDR.jpg
 
Typically you're a little better off than v-drives since the engines are pushed back. Just looking at the picture, it appears you have pretty good room. Remove the trim pump and genny muffler, along with those few things on the stringer (forward of the engine) then slide the (?) water tank out (if needed). Then slide the genny forward, then towards the center of the boat to remove (possibly rotate it 90*).
 
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why remove the whole thing? just remove the back half if thats the problem....can probably lift it out yourself....
 
"but my biggest complaint is that the power that it creates will not run my 100 amp Freedom battery charger"
Something has been wrong; that charger should only draw 12 amps at 120 volts at the rated charge current (which it should never see). It should operate fine on a 20 Amp circuit breaker and your generator wouldn't even labor to power it.
The stator section and housing slides right off the generator with removing a few bolts and wires. The stator housing has the rear support feet integrated so you will need to support the engine. The rotor then has four or five bolts that attach it to the flywheel. These can be rebuilt at several authorized vendors.
 
Good points above - if it's only the charging system that's an issue, there's no reason to remove the whole thing.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Good points above - if it's only the charging system that's an issue, there's no reason to remove the whole thing.
Click to expand...
I have thought of removing the back end also. I just need to figure how to get to the bolts. If I loosen the three mounting bolts for the generator (can't get to the far back bolt against the boat wall), I may be able to pivot/slide the back end towards the starboard engine enough to reach the back end housing bolts, maybe the furthest mounting bolt also. If that doesn't work, the only way to get to the back mounting bolt would be to take the manifolds of the starboard engine, and squeeze in there around the back to get the bolt loose.
 
Removing 3 bolts and pivoting sounds like a good plan. May need to put a spacer (wood) under the forward edge of the generator portion so it doesn't drop down as it's pivoted. But probably better still is to first remove the generator portion. Unless you're referring to removing the small bolts that hold the C-channel to the deck? If you can get to those, it might be easier.

How easy would it be to remove the manifold on the engine portion?

Another thing is to experiment with various socket extensions, etc. You might find that you can get the right length to slip on (long enough to get above the generator/engine) and then a handle extension over top of the engine.
 
I just put new manifolds, risers and spacers on last year. They are not difficult to get off. This will be my fall winter project. I'm done boating this year on my boat since the generator is out. I don't like mooching power off my friends while at anchor. The boat is on a trailer at my house, so I'm not wasting money at a marina. Next trip is on a friends boat over Labor Day.
 
ttmott said:
"but my biggest complaint is that the power that it creates will not run my 100 amp Freedom battery charger"
Something has been wrong; that charger should only draw 12 amps at 120 volts at the rated charge current (which it should never see). It should operate fine on a 20 Amp circuit breaker and your generator wouldn't even labor to power it.

I have never been able to figure the charger issue of not providing close to full power. It drive me banana's. I only know what it is producing because I have a digital monitoring panel that indicates the number of amps the batteries are accepting during charging. I was told that the power (dirty) the generator produces in not the same as from shore power. You are correct when you say the generator should handle it no problem. I agree, the generator doesn't even flinch when running the battery charger. However the generator will run stove and other components just fine.
Click to expand...
 
John Lienhard said:
I have thought of removing the back end also. I just need to figure how to get to the bolts. If I loosen the three mounting bolts for the generator (can't get to the far back bolt against the boat wall), I may be able to pivot/slide the back end to wards the starboard engine enough to reach the back end housing bolts, maybe the furthest mounting bolt also. If that doesn't work, the only way to get to the back mounting bolt would be to take the manifolds of the starboard engine, and squeeze in there around the back to get the bolt loose.
Click to expand...
Yes it should rotate so access to that back side can be easier. Remove the two bolts that hold the generator end to the two frames then jack up so the generator's feet are just off the frame and support the engine from it's oil pan. The generator's back section is heavy, like 120 pounds; so be ready. Even the rotor is heavy.....
This drawing is from the BTD but I'm sure the assembly is similar.
Westerbeke Back Assy.jpg
 
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