Hot water by pass

dvx216

dvx216

Well-Known Member
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Feb 1, 2012
2,695
Catawaba Island/Orrville,Oh.
Boat Info
340 Sundancer 2001
Engines
8.1s 370 v drv.
My 2000 310 Da uses Pex tubing for the water heater I would like to install a bypass my question is the lines udes on the heater SAE or metric
 
It could be either one. Both metric and SAE were used at various times. The best way to know for sure is to look at them - size will be printed on the line. I would say probably metric, but look to be sure. From "my" experience, the red/blue pex lines (with push-in connectors) have always been metric. But that's not to say that they are ALL like that.
 
Are you trying to bypass the water heater? If so, most are set up to unscrew the inlet fitting and outlet fitting and then screw them together. That takes the heater out of the water flow.
 
If they're red and blue they're 15mm and you need SeaTech fittings. If they're grey they are 1/2" and you can use shark-bite connectors. In a model year 2000, they're probably red and blue.

Pull the hoses out of the HWH and either join them with a union or build a u-shaped jig to bypass the HWH. Drain the HWH and use a shop vac to suck out any residual.
 
The way I used to join mine together (before installing a permanent-type setup with valves) was to just use a short length (12") of garden hose to connect the red and blue together. Fits over the tubing perfectly - I had clamps, as well, but honestly, I don't even think I needed them.
 
I had the camco setup too. It worked great for 2 seasons then the check valve failed. I threw it away and bypass it manually now as described above.
 
Pinked everything today. Here's my hi-tek HWH bypass. Works like a charm.

A couple of years ago I attached adapters to the red and blue water lines to convert to 1/2 NPT. The stainless feeds run to 1/2" brass nipples (one of which is the check valve type) on the tank. The 1/2" x 4" brass nipple serves as the bypass.
enhance
 
Up date on by pass of water heater turns on it was 15mm pex lines.My heater was replaced by PO and they installed some elbows which made it easy to just disconnect lines to heater and install a loop of pex between the elbows.
 
If you use compressed air through the shore water hookup and blow your system out and don't use antifreeze, you don't need to bypass the HW heater.

Hook up the air and open all valves, hot and cold, till nothing but air comes out. Open the drain valve on the HW heater and the toilet. Done
 
QUICK CONNECT BYPASS.jpeg Because I am working on a new boat to me, and will spend the winter worrying I made a mistake, I would like to ask a question. I drained the freshwater tank then hooked up an air compressor to the city water and blew air through the lines by opening all of the faucets (hot and cold). I opened the drain valve on the water heater and drained it. I added about 8 gallons of Antifreeze and ran it through all the faucets again until I saw the pink. I an going to flush the toilet until I see pink too. I will leave all the faucets on over the winter.

The quick disconnect fittings through me off a bit on the water heater and I was afraid to remove the fittings from the heater since it didn't look like they had ever been removed and the boat is 23 years old. Next fall, I intend to put together a bypass using the Whale hose and disconnects like in the picture I attached. If anyone sees a fault in my plan, please let me know as I am a bit OCD when it comes to doing my own work. I apologize for the long post.
 
Thought I'd leave a picture of my set-up. Why the boat isn't set-up this way from the factory is one of the unanswerable mysteries.
 

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I literally disconnect the hot and cold lines from the HWH and connect them together with a plastic 3" gray union. That does the bypass. Then drain shop vac out what water comes out and that's all. I don't add pink to the HWH. Oh, open up the safety valve to drain that line too.

There are some really nice looking bypass set ups on here! Mine is fugly in comparison :)
 
I'm with you DaleM. Same simple deal but I'm fancy...I used brass! ;-)
(see post #10 above)
 
DaleM said:
I literally disconnect the hot and cold lines from the HWH and connect them together with a plastic 3" gray union. That does the bypass.
Click to expand...

I do the same thing. I use a compressor to blow out the lines. Before bypassing the tank, I open the drain valve and blow as much water out of the tank as possible. The only 2 places I use pink is to flush the head, and to pour some in the water tank to ensure there's not residual water in there. I use the water pump to pull it through, but disconnect the water system from the pump outlet.
 
I just might have to invest in an air compressor. That would reduce the amount of pink I need to buy and eliminate the hassle of flushing and flushing and flushing the fresh water systems in the spring to get rid of that smell/taste!
 
could the same be done with a shop vac to blow or suck three water out?
 
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