260DA 6.2 overheating

So that points to the intake side. Worn pump body or Bravoitis are the usual suspects, something before the sensor. Maybe broken impeller pieces at the power steering cooler. Seeing what you have already taken apart, I'd flush out every hose on that engine
 
^^^^ Bravoitis gets my vote. I had it, and have seen 3 others.
3-5 PSI water pressure at cruise went to 15-17 psi after the water pick up tube and fitting were changed.
 
^^^^ Bravoitis gets my vote. I had it, and have seen 3 others.
3-5 PSI water pressure at cruise went to 15-17 psi after the water pick up tube and fitting were changed.

could you please explain this Bravoitis? and what is the fix? ...thank you
 
thanks Mitch... i just did the same google search... i got in now...

the drive was just rebuilt... going to call and see if this had been done
See my post above about this, when you call them.

This is a test you can do for the raw water pump - to see if it's getting enough water and pumping out enough. It's not a 100% definitive test, but it does help. Ideally this should be done in the water, since no hose will supply as much water as when actually in the water. But you can try it on a hose and see what you get. At 1,000rpms, you should get 7.5qts in 15 seconds (repeat at least 3 times) coming out of the intake hose at the t-stat housing.

And, definitely, do as I had mentioned above and remove the block/manifold plugs and drain/flush from there. If the t-stat housing looked like that, it's a pretty safe be the inside of the block does, as well. And, yes, remove the elbows to double check things.
 
So.. days into it, complete...
all hoses, crinkled, cleared and flushed
manifolds, risers and elbows pulled.. plugs pulled and was full of crud and rust... thoroughly cleaned
New water pump
Replaced crimped hose
Wire wheeled where needed and fresh coat of highbtemp engine paint on all before reinstall

Ran with ears.. temp came up to 146 and dropped to 141 and I shut off

Taking family out tomorrow! Stoked!





















 
It seems i have the Bravoitis... still overheating...

Guess that fix is next...

Damn
 
No good on the water, I take it? That's too bad - was hoping it would be good.

Have you checked the block for blockages, yet? Flushed the block out? Checked for water flow to be within spec? What did the shop say about bravoitis when you called?
 
i don't remember reading a post about this but if your exhaust has one way flappers installed to prevent a back flow of water into the engine you may want to check to insure one of the flappers has not broken loose and blocking the exhaust water on that side.....

cliff
 
So.. researching Bravoitis.. the fix is a hard tube 90 from transom to pick up hose..?

Looking at the outdrive it appears there is hard tube to hose...




I back flushed again and all seems to flow....
 
laying in bed i thought about the assembly to the headers... there is a piece on the bottom that is a tee with what appears to be a ball float check valve. i didnt want to break it when i was cleaning the manifold but now that i think of it i dont recall it flowing... i am going to remove this assembly and check it out... does the body of the ball float screw together or twist lock???
 
So I did find that one of the header drain assembly was clogged... cleaned...

Went ahead and more flushing and all flows well

Pulled the raw water pump again and appears the wear plate is pretty grooved... going to replace..

Hopeful...



 
Unfortunately that's not a wear plate and the pump surface behind the impeller wears too. Someone does make a wear plate kit for that brass pump. A new pump would be nice though
 
OEM brass pump did not have replaceable wear plates, although after market ones do exist
 
It appears to be the same brass pump as on my engines. The "plates" are actually the face of the casting and are only replaceable in the sense of replacing the pump or the rear cover - EXPENSIVE! If you think the grooves are bad enough to affect the pump's operation there is a kit which introduces stainless wear plates on the front and back of the existing pump.

http://www.amarket.com/im496reb.htm

Used this kit on one of my pumps last summer and its been operating fine ever since.

Regarding the "Bravo" water supply issue, others have simply capped off that supply and installed a scoop on the ER floor to supply cooling water directly to the engine. Seems to have solved their issues. Something to consider.
 
OEM brass pump did not have replaceable wear plates, although after market ones do exist

The pump in Happy Dayz picture has a replaceable wear plate. The end cap is plastic and the body is bronze or brass. You can pop that plate out with a screw driver. You silicone the new plate into the plastic cap. I had these pumps on my 6.2 bravos.

The original pumps did not have wear plates, Happy Dayz do.
 
thanks all!!

that wear plate is on there good.. felt i was mauling the end cap so i bought a new end cap....

hopefully get the part in, reinstall and test this weekend..
 

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