If it isn't broken yet, tape it up. If you want to, it's pretty easy to add a remote wireless switch (check on Amazon) and then you will only need the wired as a backup.
You can add an off brand, it's just switches. My marine found an industrial rubberized switch and replaced mine. Something like this from Amazon:
mxuteuk Dump Trailer Remote Control Switch 12V DC Trailer Up and Down Control Switch for Lift Gate
I had the same problem in the main salon and used some wedges to angle the base towards the starboard side to flatten it out. Toughest part of the job is getting behind the couch to access the bolts. I also got tired of the uncomfortable bed in the aft cabin and removed the entire couch and...
Agree with your reasoning and nice to have the boat close to home. I'm also from the Toledo area and have kept boats here but have been out at Catawba Island Club the last 6 years. Water is MUCH nicer out there, lots more destinations, less concern about shallow spots and logs and nicer...
Never have figured it out. You could add weight to the stbd side or underfill the port fuel tank if it bugs you. It bothered me more before I read that it is fairly common on this boat and everyone seems to list to port.
I've taken the door off a couple of times, really not a very big job. I believe there is a kit available from Flounder Pounder with all the various wheel cars for our doors. Probably won't take over an hour to complete...
I've got the same problem and haven't really done anything about it other than open the door more carefully. I'm thinking that new rear track cars might help. Either that or larger blocks. Let us know if you figure it out.
Use painters tape to mask off the area that you don't want to get caulk on and then remove while the caulk is still damp. It will leave a nice straight edge and look professional.