Recent content by Ferris

Following up on this..... So after removing the seat back and investigating some more, the original posts are a 10-24 threaded stud welded to backing plate with spikes( like a t nut). Since it was only one stud that broke, I removed the staples in the vinyl near it enough that I could my hand...

It doesn't look hard to remove the whole seat but maybe adhesive is much simpler approach. I did find the right size threaded rod 10-24, I'll probably check it out more today. Thanks again for the idea :) Sorry I have the plastic cup holders, I believe the headliner is applied with adhesive...

Forward port seat back question... The one that's against the cabin near the cup holder. It seems one of the studs snapped, so the bottom corner is no longer secured, I removed the cabin trim and access is pretty easy esp for the snapped stud. I'm thinking I can have someone hold the back or...

lol going through the coast guard is nightmare, there is a 3 month back log btw... when I did mine it took a year to finally come through. Story for another day though.

Gonna ask the captain obvious question here... are you sure it's not a gauge issue? ie was the sync off or was it pulling toward starboard?

If it were me I'd drain the water via the plugs, squirt ATF fluid in each cylinder that possibly had water in it. Let it sit and turn it over by hand. repeat a few times, trying to get atf in right before BDC. I'd also do it one last time and let it sit over night. After this put the plugs back...

Well my Euro trash cars all take Mann-Filter or OEM. Though in my Youf, I had good sucess with AC Delco , too I figured if it's good enough for GM it's good enough for Merc. Agreed on FRAM, total trash and I always thought K & N was hype. Anyway it was more of a in a pinch this will fit post...

Not sure if this is already well known or not, but I got myself in a bind and needed an oil filter after west marine closed. I typically use the Quicksilver 35-866340Q03 on a 4.3L w/ a remote oil filter. Anyway I had the remote filter in hand and took it to Advanced auto and found that the...

I can't believe any of these shops didn't sea trial the boat after a repair OR at least hook up muffs and run it on land. That should be your first indication of a bad shop. It's like taking a car for a test drive after a repair. I'm also a bit surprised the last shop didn't pick up any issues...

Try cleaning the connection and lugs on the solenoids in the bilge. I tend to have wire brush mine at the beginning of the season before the work.

quick google of the wiring diagram shows a common ground/supply(?), that goes sensor to sensor, are you sure that wire is right?

Thanks for the update, Hope if found a good home

Wanted to retrofit the remote to my existing, I have the same head unit, I might be able to fix the remote what's the issue? Then again maybe I shouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth anyway

Curious if you still have the radio?

There threads on here about caulk matching I can't help you there other than suggesting search. If it's a big deal to you maybe you can drill out the flush screws instead?