Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

I had similar results on a boat I purchased a few years back and after aftercooler maintenance (they had to be replaced) all was good.

This is a perfect question for Tony Athens at boatdiesel.com.

John, it’s well worth your time on that forum for Cummins engines, Tony is THE expert, kind of like Frank on Cats...

How old are your aftercoolers?

Josh

Tony no longer posts on Boatdiesel. His past posts are there via the search function. If you have questions for him he has his own forum at sbmar.com or you can email him directly. He is a great resource!

NotHerDecision said:

This is a perfect question for Tony Athens at boatdiesel.com.

John, it’s well worth your time on that forum for Cummins engines, Tony is THE expert, kind of like Frank on Cats...

How old are your aftercoolers?

Josh

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unknown when the after coolers were done. I was told they were done 2 years ago. I have the parts to do them this year. Just trying to find the days to pull them and re install

john

I went to DeAngelo in Fort Lauderdale to pickup my 2 wet exhaust risers, made with 25-6 INCONEL, with 5 years warranty but they said it will last at least for another 10 years, with stainless steel 316 is only 3 years warranty. The price is $ 200.00 more each one, but I think is worth it.
Total cost each $ 1,400.00
The last mixer was bad leaking water and it make my turbo to fail.
They also added a feature to install a temperature sensor, see picture, now figure out how to connect the temperature sensor alarm to the engine.

ZZ13 said:

How much are they charging you for the elbows? After a thorough search I haven't found anywhere that stocks them.

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Bill , here is the answer to your question
Fernando

Fernando, You can get everything you need at napa or a radio shack type store to set up your alarm system. Or you can buy the alarm panel from Borel or Aqualarm, or probably many other places. I set up one panel/alarm system and wired in Coolant high temp switches and exhaust hose high temp switches. It's quite easy, hardest part is running the wires up to the bridge. Assuming the switches you show are normally open, run 12v power to the alarm lights (port and starboard) and buzzer from ignition toggle switches, and the ground wires to the temp switches in your picture. ground the other side of the switch and when the switch closes (overheat), it completes the circuit and you get the alarm. The overheat switches that you show are a nice feature to have. Good luck.

View attachment 58635 View attachment 58636 View attachment 58637 View attachment 58638 View attachment 58635 View attachment 58636 View attachment 58637 View attachment 58638 View attachment 58635 I went to DeAngelo in Fort Lauderdale to pickup my 2 wet exhaust risers, made with 25-6 INCONEL, with 5 years warranty but they said it will last at least for another 10 years, with stainless steel 316 is only 3 years warranty. The price is $ 200.00 more each one, but I think is worth it.
Total cost each $ 1,400.00
The last mixer was bad leaking water and it make my turbo to fail.
They also added a feature to install a temperature sensor, see picture, now figure out how to connect the temperature sensor alarm to the engine.

my3sons said:

Fernando, You can get everything you need at napa or a radio shack type store to set up your alarm system. Or you can buy the alarm panel from Borel or Aqualarm, or probably many other places. I set up one panel/alarm system and wired in Coolant high temp switches and exhaust hose high temp switches. It's quite easy, hardest part is running the wires up to the bridge. Assuming the switches you show are normally open, run 12v power to the alarm lights (port and starboard) and buzzer from ignition toggle switches, and the ground wires to the temp switches in your picture. ground the other side of the switch and when the switch closes (overheat), it completes the circuit and you get the alarm. The overheat switches that you show are a nice feature to have. Good luck.

Click to expand...

Mark, excellent,
thank you very much for your explanation, very helpful
Fernando

FeLizDream said:

View attachment 58635 View attachment 58636 View attachment 58637 View attachment 58638 View attachment 58635 View attachment 58636 View attachment 58637 View attachment 58638 View attachment 58635 I went to DeAngelo in Fort Lauderdale to pickup my 2 wet exhaust risers, made with 25-6 INCONEL, with 5 years warranty but they said it will last at least for another 10 years, with stainless steel 316 is only 3 years warranty. The price is $ 200.00 more each one, but I think is worth it.
Total cost each $ 1,400.00
The last mixer was bad leaking water and it make my turbo to fail.
They also added a feature to install a temperature sensor, see picture, now figure out how to connect the temperature sensor alarm to the engine.

Bill , here is the answer to your question
Fernando

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Nice fabrication work there. That looks like a solid piece!

Propeller size 2004 Sea Ray 420 Sedan Bridge.
I am trying to find out the size of Original propeller installed on the 2004 Sea Ray 420 Sedan Bridge?
Engines ->Cummins 6CTA 8.3- M3 Diamond Series 450.( 900 hrs)

I contacted Sea Ray to inquire about the size and the Part Number
of the 420 original propellers.
To my surprise, Sea Ray confirmed the size to be 26”x26”x2” Bore.
L4BC ( Port P/n 1748061) and R4BC ( Starb p/n 17488062) respectively. Nibral Teignbridge.
Other boat prior to 2004 and after, came with 23x26.

However, the spare propellers onboard my vessel are size 23”x26”x2” with 7” Cups , S/n HL732 4 Blades Nibral. The spares appeared they were used by previous owner, but in good conditions, Only in to be need reconditioned.
Any idea why different models came with different Prop sizes?

Problem: I am troubleshooting The PORT Engine, due to sloggish acceleration out of the Hole... The port is getting stocked at 1600 RPM out of the Hole and experiencing a Very Slow acceleration.
Obviously Momentarily Smoking out of the Hole, but no Smoking during cruise.
At 2250 RPM , I am cruising 19 -21 knots.
The Starboard is spooling out of the HOLE perfectly, but is working harder to get the boat into the plane and is momentarily Smoking ( which is normal for all engines out of Hole ). No Smoking during Cruise.

RPM at WOT Half tank (50% Fuel - Full Water)
Port 2500 RPM/ Starboard 2650 RPM

Full of Fuel
Port 2400/ Stab 2500

Full of Fuel 100/100 plus Dingy 2 souls
Port 2300/ Starb 2500

Obviously I am a little over-proped, however I never had any problems before with slow spooling on the Port Engine.
Any advise? Will adjustment of the P7100 Aneroid Wheel help?
How many turns are required?
I red a post from Tony Athens mentioning: “ I marked the Shaft, turn the wheel about 3/4 of a turn toward Starboard, on a forward facing engine”

Little background:
Port Engine has brand New Turbo, Aftercoolers served Sep.2017, New Fuel Solenoid and clean (unrestricted) Fuel system.

I am currently troubleshooting the fuel lines out the RACOR 900 Primary Filter Exit —->with a vacuum gauge installed on TOP OF THE RACOR 900 to measure any high vacuum reading in the Vacuum Line ( tank to mechanical Fuel Lift Pump). I also suspect a lazy Aneroid.
As far as the Propellers, Any suggestions into which Prop should I use.
Currently running with 26x26x2. The choice is to lower the Pitch on this Propellers or to Install the 23x26x2 smaller Props?

Cheers!

manfredr said:

I know it is an old thread, but I had to adjust my aneroid on the starboard engine because of delay coming up to speed. This was a few years ago, it fixed the problem and never had an issue since. You need a special Torx tool to get to the adjustment dial.

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Hi Captain
How many turns are necessary? I saw a Post where Tony mentions: “ I marked the Shaft, turn the wheel about 3/4 of a turn toward Starboard on a Forward facing engines”
Any advise on this? What shaft is he referring to ?

See here - https://www.sbmar.com/articles/aneroid-adjustment-on-the-bosch-p7100-injection-pump/

douglee25 said:

See here - https://www.sbmar.com/articles/aneroid-adjustment-on-the-bosch-p7100-injection-pump/

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Thank you!
I have seen this pictures before . But they do not specify how many turns (or fractions of a turn) are required.
Also the technique to Mark the shaft sounds great. But what shaft!

Fractions.....it will take only a few nubs on that adjustment wheel. Run the boat, and match the boost / acceleration agsinst the other engine. If you drop both throttles, the engines should accelerate at the same rate

L’atitude Adjuster said:

Thank you!
I have seen this pictures before . But they do not specify how many turns (or fractions of a turn) are required.
Also the technique to Mark the shaft sounds great. But what shaft!

Click to expand...

He's stating to mark the wheel to have a reference point on the number of turns or fractions in this case.

PMC said:

Fractions.....it will take only a few nubs on that adjustment wheel. Run the boat, and match the boost / acceleration agsinst the other engine. If you drop both throttles, the engines should accelerate at the same rate

Click to expand...

Thank you Captain !!!!
That makes sense!
I was confused about the statement “Turn the wheel 3/4 of a Turn”

I will make little adjustments and Report back the results ..
Thanks a Lot!

Sea Ray 420 Sedán Bridge original Propeller’s size!

Sea Ray confirmed the propellers size for the Sea Ray 420 Sedan Bridge DB in the years 2004 VS 2005 are different.

Both props below are four blade propellers. (two part numbers below are the correct propellers for the 2004 versus 2005 )


2004
Both props below are four blade propellers
Part Number – 1748061 / Description - PROP, 26"X 26"X 2" L4BC NIBRAL TEIGNBRIDGE - $4,264.65
Part Number – 1748062 / Description - PROP, 26"X 26"X 2" R4BC NIBRAL TEIGNBRIDGE - $4,264.65


2005
Part Number – 1205608 – Description / PROP, 23"X 26"X 2" R4BC NIBRAL H/S - $4,937.40
Part Number – 1205616 – Description / PROP, 23"X 26"X 2" L4BC NIBRAL H/S - $4,937.40

Therefore any performance comparisons must consider the fact tye propellers are different (23”x26” vs 26”x26”)

Pics ARE WORTHS a thousand words!
I found this pictures of the Bosh P7100 injector Pump to better illustrate the AFC—> star wheel adjustment or Aneroid spring Adjustment!

I'm getting ready to change my coolant. If I recall, our engines hold about 8 gallons of antifreeze. As I understand, draining from one of the hose by coolant filter I'll get about 6 gal. How do you drain the remaining 2 gal?

Also, is there another or better way to drain it all from another location than by coolant filter hose?

Alex F said:

I'm getting ready to change my coolant. If I recall, our engines hold about 8 gallons of antifreeze. As I understand, draining from one of the hose by coolant filter I'll get about 6 gal. How do you drain the remaining 2 gal?

Also, is there another or better way to drain it all from another location than by coolant filter hose?

Click to expand...

There is a petcock on the bottom of the block on the forward starboard side of the engine that drains it all. Easy acces in port engine. Not so much on starboard engine.

When I pull the coolant filter hose off that is connected to the lowest point in the block, I get almost 7 gallons out. Mechanics have told me that's good enough and to just leave what is in there and add the new.

Bill,

Thanks for the tip. If I understand correctly, you use a hose by coolant filter since it's much easier to get to vs. the petcock. It that correct?

I did find the petcock and trying to figure out best way to collect the coolant from there. Maybe there's a way to stick a small hose in by directing the flow in a bucket. There's just no room to place any kind of collecting pan under the engines.

Any ideas?