leak from the oil pan

27 Amberjack - I have a very slow leak in my oil pan where the drain hose comes out. New oil pan was installed last summer, but only started leaking this summer. I'm positive that is where its coming from. It appears the nut is on the inside of the pan and cannot be tightened from underneath. I know the right thing to do is probably pull the motor, but it is definitely a very small leak and I ran the whole summer on it. Barely had to add any oil and ust kept some oil pads under there. Anyone aware of a good product that could seal that spot from underneath? I know there are some good sealants out there, but this spot is sure to be a little slick with oil. Thanks

Had a similar issue and JB Water weld fixed it.

the "nut" is welded inside the pan - i bet its a problem with the hose end or crush washer - i would just replace those parts at the next oil change if you can get to it -or, better yet, just install a drain plug if you use a pump to change the oil - dont put any "mechanic in a bottle" in the crankcase with the oil that promises to stop leaks - it will not work

Ididntdoit said:

the "nut" is welded inside the pan - i bet its a problem with the hose end or crush washer - i would just replace those parts at the next oil change if you can get to it -or, better yet, just install a drain plug if you use a pump to change the oil - dont put any "mechanic in a bottle" in the crankcase with the oil that promises to stop leaks - it will not work

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I’d get rid of the hose and replace it with a drain plug and new washer. Then just use a pump for oil changes.
I’m got rid of the oil drain hose on my kids boat this year.

Good info from all. I think I’ll start with the jb
weld and go from there. Thanks!

hyjenx said:

Good info from all. I think I’ll start with the jb
weld and go from there. Thanks!

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JB is a patch/rig job/band aid! Fix it correctly or eliminate it.

Similar hose on our boa,t the hose was replaced with a screwed elbow and ball valve then the hose. At the end of the hose is a plug. Seems to work well. To open the valve they put a 1/4" rod in the valve handle you can easily reach to open and close it.

First... what does the shop say that installed it? It might be worthwhile to ask them - maybe they will help.

Second, every kit that I have ever seen simply screws in (no nut on the back side) just like a normal drain plug. It's not clear if you actually tried to screw it in tighter, or just assumed you couldn't. Try screwing it in a little tighter - don't go all Superman with it, but snug it up. In case you weren't aware, you have to put a wrench on the part that is directly against the oil pan - the lower part will just swivel.

If that doesn't work, my next step would be as No Responsibility said and replace the washer (maybe they forgot to put it on?) with a new crush washer. At THAT point, since you'd be able to get everything clean, you could put a little bit of Ultra Black RTV on it, as well.

But I'd still start with discussing this with your shop.