420 DA Thread

rmclok said:
Regarding water leak in the aft locker, my boat's previous owner had the problem and it turned out to be the fresh water manifold itself. The yard replaced the whole thing. I have the receipt somewhere, but the whacked him pretty good. sounds like you are homing in on the vent hose - really wish there was better access to that fresh water tank, like an inspection port. Looks like we'd have to cut up some of the seat structure just to get to it.
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I would have looked there but in the process of going over every last screw on this boat, I already replaced that and most of the hoses. We found the leak at the return overflow. Hose and fitting was brittle after 13 years. Word of help to all, if you have water there, first place to look is this return line. Just a PITA though...
 
I removed the guest cabin seat/bed on my 420 without cutting anything. It was a job but possible. After taking all the cushions out you can lift the pull out up and remove the screws on the piano hinge and get the whole thing out. It is tight and care is needed to not scrape the sides. Once out I found the sensor was leaking when the tank was full.

I also had several leaks in the manifold. Once they and the tank leak were fixed the water under the floor stopped.
 
Buyajet said:
I would have looked there but in the process of going over every last screw on this boat, I already replaced that and most of the hoses. We found the leak at the return overflow. Hose and fitting was brittle after 13 years. Word of help to all, if you have water there, first place to look is this return line. Just a PITA though...
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Great detective work! Can you elaborate or even a pic if you have of the return overflow and return line? Thanks
 
villain style said:
Great detective work! Can you elaborate or even a pic if you have of the return overflow and return line? Thanks
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Would love to villain but all I did was help find it, mechanic was there and both basically found it (he knew where to go first) since I’d probably sink my boat trying. I left, he fixed, I paid, no pics. Sorry but will try to do better on next problem which should be any minute!! Thanks
 
Good Day Mates.....
Any information regarding locating water tank SR part no#1691489 or Dura cast #103101sr I seem to be having difficulty locating a water tank......mine has 2 cracks and is currently leaking into the bilge.

Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
 
Have any of you changed your cockpit eisenglass lately? Apparently I have polycarbonate, and I need at least the middle panel replaced, but the rest is going to need it soon. My canvas guy is saying that polycarbonate is a little tough to come by. Apparently the newer tech is EZ2CY, which i hear is heat bonded instead of sewn, so maybe not doable by an independent guy. The basic alternative is strataglass, but that stuff does not do real well on compound curves. Looking for input, and cost info if you have it.
 
I did poly-carbonate 3 years ago and very happy with it. It looks as new as the first day it was installed. It is sewn to the frame by an independent. $2,500 for 5 panels.
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There are a few threads on here debating EZ2CY and Poly do a quick search to help you decide. here is one thread

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/polycarbonate-windows.86133/
 
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rmclok said:
Have any of you changed your cockpit eisenglass lately? Apparently I have polycarbonate, and I need at least the middle panel replaced, but the rest is going to need it soon. My canvas guy is saying that polycarbonate is a little tough to come by. Apparently the newer tech is EZ2CY, which i hear is heat bonded instead of sewn, so maybe not doable by an independent guy. The basic alternative is strataglass, but that stuff does not do real well on compound curves. Looking for input, and cost info if you have it.
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Good timing, I’m having mt canvas and windows done this winter. They said they were using stataglass but after seeing Blueone’s windows, i’m Liking the poly-carbonate look They wanted 2500 for stataglass windows.
 
RPearson said:
Good Day Mates.....
Any information regarding locating water tank SR part no#1691489 or Dura cast #103101sr I seem to be having difficulty locating a water tank......mine has 2 cracks and is currently leaking into the bilge.

Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
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I was not able to find a new tank either however I did find a couple of companies that would make one based on the Sea Ray tank drawing. It was really expensive. The best option was a company priced to make it out of aluminum. I ended up fixing the tank in the boat.

I removed the settee that covers the tank and cut a 12" access in the top (cut to fit a 12" screw in flush deck cover). That aloud me to access the areas where the cracks were located from the top. I purchaed a plastic welder from Harber Freight and made the repairs. In addtion to the welds I covered the area with a special epoxy the would stick to the polypropolene (after some special prep). I also added some additional support between the tank and the bulkhead to prevent the tank from flexing when full. I don't fill it until it overflows anymore. I have my wife monitor the fill gauge and once it reaches full I stop. It has held for atleast 3 years with no leaks. Now I have access to the tank to clean it peridically. You would be surprised what accummalates in the bottom of these tanks. I hope this helps.
 
J.Wilt said:
Good timing, I’m having mt canvas and windows done this winter. They said they were using stataglass but after seeing Blueone’s windows, i’m Liking the poly-carbonate look They wanted 2500 for stataglass windows.
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The only problem with Poly is you cant roll them up. I rarely take them out so that's not a problem for me. They are crystal clear better than looking thru the windshield and no glare. I wouldn't spend the extra money for EZ2CY based on my experience so far
 
LEAKING SKYLIGHT

My skylight is leaking when it rains, and is dripping onto the carpet / skylight shade whenever it rains. Has anybody had to reseal their skylight in the main salon? Any tips for removal of old sealing and resealing?

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So I took the Smartcraft SC 5000 out and plugged this in and voila...it worked. And just like that, I had an upgrade that didn't cause me a huge headache.
 

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villain style said:
Interesting. What model VesselView is that? Was it as easy as you say? Plug and Play and everything worked?
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I bought it in a forum here. It came out of a 2007 52 DB with different Cummins power. I think it’s a Version 7 but I really don’t know. I took a shot and figured my tech could get it to play or just sell it. It was a great deal. I unplugged the old, plugged in the new, started the engines and it worked! I spoke to a VP at sbmar who told me it was a crapshoot. All I had to do was change the boat spec fuel capacity. That’s it and that simple. Lucky!
 
rmclok said:
Have any of you changed your cockpit eisenglass lately? Apparently I have polycarbonate, and I need at least the middle panel replaced, but the rest is going to need it soon. My canvas guy is saying that polycarbonate is a little tough to come by. Apparently the newer tech is EZ2CY, which i hear is heat bonded instead of sewn, so maybe not doable by an independent guy. The basic alternative is strataglass, but that stuff does not do real well on compound curves. Looking for input, and cost info if you have it.
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I am in the middle of having all 5 panels redone in Poly carbonate, all new material including the “rope” that runs around the hard top is $3k, all new rubber and snaps obviously too. No issue getting material I can confirm the difference between poly and EZ2CY is the poly is stitched in and the EZ is glued in. My canvass guy uses both and he said for the money I would be happier with the Poly.
 
hynespa said:
LEAKING SKYLIGHT

My skylight is leaking when it rains, and is dripping onto the carpet / skylight shade whenever it rains. Has anybody had to reseal their skylight in the main salon? Any tips for removal of old sealing and resealing?

View attachment 64666
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Mine is starting to leak, in the Spring I plan on removing and resealing. Planning on using good utility knife to cut the sealant out. Then resealing with 3M 4000UV Black
 
hynespa said:
LEAKING SKYLIGHT

My skylight is leaking when it rains, and is dripping onto the carpet / skylight shade whenever it rains. Has anybody had to reseal their skylight in the main salon? Any tips for removal of old sealing and resealing?

View attachment 64666
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You may want to look at Lifeseal for this. I just "recaulked" my entire boat (windshields, hull to deck, cap, etc.) and had a friend in the chemical adhesive biz break down the specs on all 3M products and some other caulking/sealant products for marine and he said the UV and elasticity, temperature range, and a lot of other tech reasons of Lifeseal far exceeded all others. 15 year+ life in direct sunlight according to the milspec. They have huge military contracts and have depth in this area. I'm happy with results but time will tell all.
 
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