Calling all 360 DA owners

5Weeks said:
That was my thought. I’ve read about a reset on the unit. Keeping my fingers crossed. Do the tanks fill automatically when water is supplied?
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Not exactly. Turn your water on (either on board tank/pump or city water) and then turn on your hot water taps until the air stops blasting out of the faucets and you get a steady stream of water. I do this every time after my boat has been sitting for a week or two without the water on.
 
So I just replied to an exhaust manifold thread over in the "sport cruisers" section, but I felt I should add it to this thread. Previous owner of my boat (Who I am friends with) cannot recall when the manifolds had been changed last. So I have been keeping a maintenance log (in excel) of all my work but I want to make it obvious to myself and any future potential owner as to when the manifolds (elbows, sea water pump, transmission coolers, etc etc) had been changed last. So I'm marking all larger parts with a stencil prior to installation:

IMG_5156 by David Orwig, on Flickr
 
It will fill, but you should run water thru it. Turn the galley faucet on for a few minutes. That will bleed the lines and clear out any remaining air. If its not toast, you're lucky!
Good habit to get into is to run the water first before you turn the hot water tank on. Little extra insurance.
It's is not easy to replace, that's for sure! Did mine 2 years ago. Take yoga and stretch beforehand.
 
Does anyone have a freshwater flush on their engines? Our boat does, but I don't see it mentioned in the manual so I think the previous owner installed it. Basically you just close the seacock for the raw water in, plug a hose into a quick connect, start the engine, open flow from the hose and the engine runs on fresh water. Previous owner said it significantly extended manifold life. Only con I can think of is you really screw up if you start flow from the hose before the engine is running.
 
Team PCBeach said:
Anyone know if the power wires going from the dash switches have fuses in them? During our second use of the boat this weekend the ST7001 autopilot died. In between tropical downpours I have been trying to diagnose. First check was all fuses in the course computer, all good. Then checked power coming to the course computer, zero volts. Checked power at Autopilot switch and 12V coming to the switch is good. Pulled wires off switch and tested continuity and switch tests good. Plug everything up and turn on autopilot and switch does not light up and no power to course computer. This leads me to think the wire going from the switch to the course computer is open. First thought was maybe an inline fuse, but the first rain bands from Gordon hit us and with lightning everywhere, I decided it might not be the best time to be on a boat trouble shooting electrical.
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SeadawgVB said:
There are some fuses inside the small door below the steering wheel. I know the GPS fuse is in there. Sometimes I need to pull / plug that fuse in to reset
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I wanted to follow-up as I finally solved this today. The autopilot has been intermittent (mostly not working) since this post. Turns out @SeadawgVB was on the right track. I pulled the fuse for the autopilot and it just didn't look right, not blown, just didn't look right. This is an automotive type 25 amp fuse and the internal looks like a Z. Upon close inspection, I could see the diagonal portion of the fuse had 2 breaks in it. Almost like it had cracked, not blown. This is probably why it was intermittent. Put in a new fuse and the autopilot turns on 100% of the time. I love easy fixes like these. When I got home I did a standard multimeter test on the old fuse and it passed! Give it a little tap though, and it would fail. This was a new one for me, never had a fuse fail that was not obviously blown.
 
Trying to finish this project before the warm weather sets in for real.... (When were those manifolds changed last???)



(Yes, I know, I'm still missing one hose clamp! And a LOT of cleanup yet to be done.)


DATES by David Orwig, on Flickr
 
That is a good question. You could assume a year ago but??? I had my manifolds pressure tested last year and they were fine. My 360 has been in fresh water for the last 13 years. It was explained to me that elbows as opposed to risers age must better. I’m not an expert. Maybe Capt Rusty can help out
 
My 05 was built with aluminum manifolds from factory. Spent first 170 hours in Salt water, then I moved to Fresh. At 190 hours one of them leaked and I almost lost an engine. Aluminum manifold, stainless steel riser = bad combo.... You can't buy an aluminum material replacement. all are cast iron now, so I think the failure intervals are much more consistent depending what type water you run in.

PS. Love the date stencil idea. I don't have the patience to make such a nice stencil, but a paint marker pen should do the trick. Thanks for the idea.
 
Scott360 said:
My 05 was built with aluminum manifolds from factory. Spent first 170 hours in Salt water, then I moved to Fresh. At 190 hours one of them leaked and I almost lost an engine. Aluminum manifold, stainless steel riser = bad combo.... You can't buy an aluminum material replacement. all are cast iron now, so I think the failure intervals are much more consistent depending what type water you run in.

PS. Love the date stencil idea. I don't have the patience to make such a nice stencil, but a paint marker pen should do the trick. Thanks for the idea.
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Here in Tidewater area of Virginia, the thinking is about five year replacement cycle, I expect longer in your neck of the woods.

I'm swapping a bunch of big parts out this month, so I figured I'd take the time to make the stencil. Those old school Marsh stencil makers they had in the military are available for purchase from ULINE!!! 1600-1800 dollars!

P.S. Welcome to Club Sea Ray!

P.P.S. Don't judge me yet on my bilge cleanliness, clean up is coming after this months big maintenance window!
 
Hello, we purchased a 2003 360 Sundancer in late February. We live in Bellingham, Washington, the boat is moored in Blaine. Originally, we were looking at at a 330 Sundancer but the survey did not go well. We are absolutely thrilled with this boat. Avalon is a navy hull, powered with twin 8.1 Horizon V Drives. The boat is currently hauled out and we are replacing the cutlass bearings, bottom paint, and had a new transducer installed as we are updating electronics. We are learning that there are not a lot of 360s out there. We hope to see you all on the water.
 
TopDawg said:
Hello, we purchased a 2003 360 Sundancer in late February. We live in Bellingham, Washington, the boat is moored in Blaine. Originally, we were looking at at a 330 Sundancer but the survey did not go well. We are absolutely thrilled with this boat. Avalon is a navy hull, powered with twin 8.1 Horizon V Drives. The boat is currently hauled out and we are replacing the cutlass bearings, bottom paint, and had a new transducer installed as we are updating electronics. We are learning that there are not a lot of 360s out there. We hope to see you all on the water.
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It would be a long cruise from the Chesapeake Bay to Bellingham, so I'll just have to chat with you here. I did pull into Bellingham once on a Navy Frigate back in the 80s for the Ski to Sea festival. The entire ships company had a wonderful time there.

I love my 360 and it performs well in the Bay and also out in the Atlantic. I think I will need to upgrade my electronics as well and possibly the mattress sometime soon!

Welcome to Club Sea Ray!
 
Curious as to what H2O pressure 360 owners with 8.1s mercruisers are getting at idle. I'm idling at about 600rpm but my port side water pressure is at 1.7 and starboard is at 7.2. Seems odd....impellers are 2 years old
 
Phasma said:
Curious as to what H2O pressure 360 owners with 8.1s mercruisers are getting at idle. I'm idling at about 600rpm but my port side water pressure is at 1.7 and starboard is at 7.2. Seems odd....impellers are 2 years old
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Turn the key on and make sure they both read zero before cranking the engine. My port side reads a few psi with the motor stopped. I shoulda replaced the pressure sensor when I swapped the pump! I may be able to reach it if I pull the muffler out of the way. (Or stand on my head with my back towards the holding tank!)
 
Thanks Seadawg. My engine temp is right at about 160 on both sides after warming up. I figure it must be a sensor issue. The mercury monitor show a pressure difference as well. I guess I will just keep an eye on it until I change the impellers next time.
 
The time has come to replace the duck bills on my vacuflush. It seems to rebuild vacuum every 10 minutes or so whether we use it or not. With very little help available at my local West Marine, I turn to all of you for the answers. What size duck bill do I need. Is there a standard size that was installed in the 360? I will probable replace the ball seal as well. Any help is appreciated
 
Don't know the size, but the ball seal replacement is a good idea. Something to consider replacing is the flexible plastic "bellows" that generates the vacuum. Ours was bad and replacing that and the duck bills was the fix we needed. Our vacuflush expert mentioned that heavy toilet paper use can get stuck in duck bills. He recommended, for those who use a lot of TP in one sitting, to put it down in two flushes.
 
Also something I just came across while cleaning up our owners briefcase the previous owner gave us, if you lift up on the vacuflush peddle it will add additional water the the bowl. Everyone might already know this, but we didn't.
 
There is 1 1/2 inch and 2 inch duckbills. Not sure what size to get. Like I said. West Marine was zero help. I only want to do this once. I think the bellows idea is a good one.
 
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