40 sedan bridge forum

PMC said:
Has anybody run wires up to the master stateroom? I'm thinking that I need to run a new RG6 cable from the vacuum storage locker to the forward TV. Has anybody done this? How much needs to come apart, or do you have any good tricks?

I'll be diagnosing this week to know for sure, but I suspect the coax cable is bad somewhere along its run.
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I would check all the connections... I have cable TV at my marina - The cable guy removed and replaced all the connectors by the vacuum because the signal he was getting was weak. Made a big difference in the signal that was received.
 
Steve S said:
I would check all the connections... I have cable TV at my marina - The cable guy removed and replaced all the connectors by the vacuum because the signal he was getting was weak. Made a big difference in the signal that was received.
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Oh I will absolutely be doing that before running a new wire. The thing is, that I did not have all the correct tools to cut and crimp new ends at the boat this weekend. Just preparing for the worst case, and fixing this 1X. Thanks!
 
I am going to purchase hose to replace all of the sanitation hose on board. I have read that the best hose against odor permeation is the dometic odersafe hose but it is fairly stiff having a larger bend radius and harder to work with than the better rubber sanitation hoses that supposedly are better for tight turns and easier to get onto fittings that are in difficult access areas. Just wondering what others have used and how their installations went on our model.
 
my3sons said:
I am going to purchase hose to replace all of the sanitation hose on board. I have read that the best hose against odor permeation is the dometic odersafe hose but it is fairly stiff having a larger bend radius and harder to work with than the better rubber sanitation hoses that supposedly are better for tight turns and easier to get onto fittings that are in difficult access areas. Just wondering what others have used and how their installations went on our model.
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My $0.02
I replaced all the hose from the holding forward a few years back. I looked at 3 types. Rubber, PVC and the Rubber / PVC combo.....

PVC type hose does not hold up well in temperature and also not for flat installations. They recommend a consistent downward slope to avoid pooling of liquids in the hose. The hose will break down prematurely otherwise.

Rubber is good for our setup, but lasts roughly 12-15 years before it breaks down and needs replacement.

Mixed materials with a PVC Outer shell, with a rubber inside seemed to have the best of both worlds....pvs odor blocking properties and the liquid durability of rubber. However this is the stiffest of all the hoses.

I went over it a few times, and felt rubber was still the best option for the 400db. It was the original direct replacement, I know that it bends to the boats contour along with first hand knowledge of age expectations.

I did toy with the idea of ridgid pvc, but that would have turned this into a much larger project. With the hoses so close to the engine, and the heat of the ER it was starting to sound unrealistic.
 
my3sons said:
I am going to purchase hose to replace all of the sanitation hose on board. I have read that the best hose against odor permeation is the dometic odersafe hose but it is fairly stiff having a larger bend radius and harder to work with than the better rubber sanitation hoses that supposedly are better for tight turns and easier to get onto fittings that are in difficult access areas. Just wondering what others have used and how their installations went on our model.
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I replaced the short pieces around the vacuum generator with Trident 101. I did not replace the engine room run. A fellow 400 DB owner replaced the engine room run around the port engine, with PVC. He had to get an adapter to mate the PVC to 1 1/2" sanitation hose, from Sealand (or whoever owns them now).
 
Thanks Paul and Bill for your replies on the hose.
I am going to replace the 6” exhaust hose and rubber elbows on the top of the underwater exhaust tube and figured that as long as the exhaust hose is out of the way, I will replace the other hoses back in those corners also, I most likely will buy a 50’ roll of hose and do the hose from the overboard discharge to the seacock and the deck waste fitting section now and do the rest this fall.
 
my3sons said:
Thanks Paul and Bill for your replies on the hose.
I am going to replace the 6” exhaust hose and rubber elbows on the top of the underwater exhaust tube and figured that as long as the exhaust hose is out of the way, I will replace the other hoses back in those corners also, I most likely will buy a 50’ roll of hose and do the hose from the overboard discharge to the seacock and the deck waste fitting section now and do the rest this fall.
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We are going to need pictures of that rubber elbow and exhaust hose replacement, when you do it.
 
If i remember correctly, I bought 50'. I didnt replace the overboard nor the macerator, but i have a 10' length when ready....it is roughly 40' from holding forward, including lines to each head.

Same as Bill, the rubber Trident 101


Wait for when you do the intercoolers, much easier when removed. Helps to have a little kid on the payroll to get between the engine!
 
On the Reel, there are several threads on this that might help. The manufacturer for the ladder was/is GG Schmitt and Sons.
 
Thank you very much for your help. By the way cool boat:)
 
The floor beneath my generator has rotted so I built small gantry from 4 by 4s and used a winch from Harbor Freight to lift the generator and move it onto a piece of plywood forward it's usual spot (picture 1). Given the difficulties accessing behind the generator for impeller changes, etc, I decided to build my own gantry that I'll keep for future use. I'm replacing the flooring with Marine plywood that Home Depot cut to size for me. The generator is leaking seawater so I'm thinking it might be from the pump (picture 2) or maybe the exhaust elbow (picture 3). I'd appreciate any insight.
IMG_3923.jpg
n to ch
IMG_3916.jpg
IMG_3929 2.jpg
 
I cant say much on the exhaust, seems fine from the picture. However, the seal on that pump is leaking
 
The problem with the original design is that the rails the generator sets on do not expand to rest on the Stringers. I Replaced the plywood platform with coosa board including the areas port and stbd of the generator. I also bought new generator rails and had them extended to have the weight resting on the Stringers
 

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