Duck valves

JPGator

Active Member
Apr 25, 2019
495
Treasure Coast
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 40
Engines
Cummins QSB 5.9 425HO
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where are they? Vacuflush 5000 manual says there are 4. And should this part be flush?
 
Duckbills are on either side of the vacuum generator. 2 on each side.

Yes, push it back in. Probably still works fine - unless it's enough to cause a leak.
 
They are under and next to your black motor. Remove the four screws and two are under the motor, and two are in the pipe to the left of the motor going into your tank. Looks like you have a VG-4 vacuum generator. Look for a diagram and order four 2" duckbills - Dometic P/N 385311581 (4 pack P/N). Here is a diagram of the JW Pump:

https://seacoastservices.com/jw-series-vacuum-generator-vg4-parts/

Get some silicone grease to coat the duckbills' "collars" where they go in the tubes. If you've used "No Flex Digestor", there is no objectionable smell when you do this job...

Changing duckbills is a 20 minute job...
 
Thanks all. Ive used no flex so that parts done. When putting the PVC pipe back together is any grease or silicone required? Lastly, can I expect any liquid to come out? We haven’t used the toilet in about a week I’m just wondering if I should have the hose or towels ready. There isn’t much space to put a pan down.
 
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Ok. All for valves changed. No visible leaks and the water pump still runs every 5-10 minutes for a second or two.

I can find any leaks, nothing obvious. Any suggestions?

Here’s the pump.
 
Is your toilet bowl going empty? Put some water in the bowl. If it goes dry, the toilet ball valve seal needs changing.

Edit - if the water pump runs, that's a different leak. You have a leak in your water lines or fittings somewhere.
 
The water pump running is independent of the vacuflush system as said above. Typically 1 of 2 things are happening. 1. You will see a freshwater leak somewhere. Check every single outlet and fitting on the boat for water. If it’s all dry then you may be sucking air in the inlet side. You need to clean the screens on the filter and reseat all of the inlet fittings to the pump itself.
 
There is always water in the bilge. It’s florida and it’s constantly raining these days but nothing out of the ordinary. I can’t see anything obvious and the box the pump sits on is not obviously wet. Is the water pump connected to the shower sump pump? The faucets aren’t leaking when the freshwater pump is on either.

I see the one screen to clean but with respect to the fittings you mean disconnect and reconnect each one? Do you need any sort of grease when you reinstall? Forgive me but what do you consider the inlet side?
 
The water pump is independent of any show sump, AC unit, etc. It provides water to the water heater, any sink/shower faucet, and the transom hose down. Turn on the water system and trace the lines. If it's cycling every 10 seconds, the leak should be visible. Use a paper towel to wipe the fittings and you should find the leak quickly.
 
JPGator, the inlet to your water pump is the side that has the screen/filter on it.

I just solved a mystery of a freshwater pump kicking on every 20-30 minutes and run for just a second or two. My situation was a crack in the mixing valve for the forward shower. I knew I had a leak somewhere in that shower, so we didn't use it. I had the mixing valve replaced, and viola, no more cycling freshwater pump.

Jaybeaux
 
My fresh water pump running was two-fold...

1) my connector fittings have almost all been replaced due to leaking
2) air in the lines will cause the pump running too

Checks all fittings for leaks and open all (hot & cold) faucets, showers, toilets, etc and try to purge any air that might be in the water lines. Once your pump has quit cycling do not turn it off. Every time the pump is turned off there is a chance for air to get back into the line...
 
JPGator, the inlet to your water pump is the side that has the screen/filter on it.

I just solved a mystery of a freshwater pump kicking on every 20-30 minutes and run for just a second or two. My situation was a crack in the mixing valve for the forward shower. I knew I had a leak somewhere in that shower, so we didn't use it. I had the mixing valve replaced, and viola, no more cycling freshwater pump.

Jaybeaux

Was the mixing valve under the sink somewhere or by the shower sump pump?
 
My fresh water pump running was two-fold...

1) my connector fittings have almost all been replaced due to leaking
2) air in the lines will cause the pump running too

Checks all fittings for leaks and open all (hot & cold) faucets, showers, toilets, etc and try to purge any air that might be in the water lines. Once your pump has quit cycling do not turn it off. Every time the pump is turned off there is a chance for air to get back into the line...
Ok. I’ll go over everything again in the morning.
 
The water pump is independent of any show sump, AC unit, etc. It provides water to the water heater, any sink/shower faucet, and the transom hose down. Turn on the water system and trace the lines. If it's cycling every 10 seconds, the leak should be visible. Use a paper towel to wipe the fittings and you should find the leak quickly.
Thanks Douglee25. It turns on once ever 5-10 minutes for about a second.
 
Was the mixing valve under the sink somewhere or by the shower sump pump?

The one that was broken on my boat was in my forward shower. It is a shower only "room", meaning it doesn't have a sink and a toilet. The mixing valve was behind the wall accessible from a galley cabinet access panel.

Jaybeaux
 
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Here is a picture of the pump and lines. Anyone see anything that would cause the pump to run?
 

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