Anchor button not working

liv2ryde100

Active Member
May 17, 2012
902
long island
Boat Info
07' 40 sundancer
Engines
cummins 5.9 380's
need some help. The other day I got caught in a bad storm taking water over the top of the boat everything drenched. Last night I noticed the anchor button flickering on the dash. Today it’s not turning on at all. Any ideas? Also anyone know where the circuit breaker is for the anchor 2005 34 dancer
 
There is a large solenoid, usually located oil the bulkhead in the engine room, with 2 fuses on the solenoid, one on either side. The fuses are low amp ATO blade fuses and it doesn't take much to blow one of them. Check them first.
 
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Ok I’ll take a look, I went in there for a second and didn’t see anything I prob didn’t look good enough
 
i looked all over the bulkhead no starting solenoid with fuses. there is only the breaker, and an iem module in engine compartment. i looked under the dash no solenoid there. only another iem module. also looked in anchor locker at the bow nothing there either.
 
I found the solenoid behind the main breaker panel in the engine compartment. There’s only a fuse on one side of it. I put a new fuse on the other side and still no luck. Not sure what to do now. I tried replacing the Switchpad on the dash and that didn’t fix the problem either. I’m lost
 
Probably going to have to check voltage heading away from the battery. 1) at breaker 2) after breaker 3) before solenoid then 4) after solenoid.

-Kevin
 
I put a test light on it. No power either side of breaker. Only power on one point of solenoid
 
Inside the anchor locker, there is often a control module that can get soaked. Occasionally I have had to take all the cables off, clean them, apply dielectric grease, and reconnect. They can develop corrosion, although it doesn't seem like it would happen that quickly based on your scenario.
 
Thank you for the reasponse. I wonder if the light on the dash would still come on if that was the problem
 
Thank you for the reasponse. I wonder if the light on the dash would still come on if that was the problem

I do not think the light will not come on if the solenoid is the problem. I had a friends boat where the 5A fuse at the solenoid was blown and the light would not come on. I am thinking if the solenoid is bad then the same would happen. If you only get voltage on one side you could try jumping across the solenoid to see if the system powers up. I would turn batteries off and move the terminal connection to the other side then turn on the batteries.

-Kevin
 
There are four terminals ( I believe) on the solenoid, then there is only a 5 amp fuse on the right side. No fuse on the left, how do I jump it out?
 
I thought that was it, I ordered one and plugged it in but still having the same problem. Dealer said I can return it
 
I’m emailing with a tech support person at sea ray. If I can jump out the solenoid and energize the system I’ll be happy for now. Even if I can only use the foot controls on the bow. Then at least I’ll know it’s the electronic interface module
 
There are four terminals ( I believe) on the solenoid, then there is only a 5 amp fuse on the right side. No fuse on the left, how do I jump it out?

Just move the heavy gauge feed from one side to the other joining the two leads.

-Kevin
 
The 5A is the trigger being sent from the EIM. When the trigger has voltage it will close the primary circuit. Jumping elements the trigger. Ideally I would test the trigger to see if there is voltage provided when you press the switch. Put the + from a volt meter to the circuit and the - to the ground block.

Since you mention that you hear clicking I really doubt it is the Keypad or the EIM. (Call me if you like)

-Kevin
 
I had a similar issue with my windlass. I could hear clicking at the windlass, but it would not move up or down with the dash up/down switch or the foot switches. It turns out my dash switch (windlass main) was not making good contact when on (light was not on). I turned it off and on about 20 times and in essence cleaned the contacts. It working fine again.

Possibly if it’s not the dash on/off switch, one of the wire connections is bad.
 

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