420 DA Thread

JVM225 said:

Like that for a cocktail table. Where did you buy the table and piece underneath that goes in to the stock pole?

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Bought both the table and appropriate bracket from Flounder Pounder at least 7 or 8 years ago.

First full weekend on the hook with the new to me toy - shot with my DJI Mavic Pro...

JVM225 said:

Use body wash instead of soap and you’ll slow down the buildup in there.

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And use a body wash without the plastic beads to clog things up, not to mention plastic in the oceans/lakes

Blue Chip said:

First full weekend on the hook with the new to me toy - shot with my DJI Mavic Pro...

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That is awesome.

General Q and I know gross weight, prop diameter, and some other factors are needed to be specific but would like to know what RPM’s the diesel powered folks here use for hi-speed idle. Cocktail settings. Looking for highest power setting that doesn’t start “pushing” water. I know it’s higher than 850 but to what I don’t know. Most here have a ton more experience than I do so I’m certain there is a general common answer. Thanks in advance!

**SALON TV FLIP DOWN MECHANISM FAILURE**

This morning while lowering down the Salon TV, the motor kept going (making noise) even after the TV was fully down. I got it to stop by hitting the switch again, but now the TV won’t go back up (motor makes noise when I hit the switch but no movement) and the flip down panel holding the TV seems to swing freely.

Has any body else run into this problem? Hoping to get some coaching on the fix or parts needed.

Thanks!!

I don't have this on my boat. But, it sounds similar to a problem I had with my garage door. The limit switch became fouled, or sticky after years of service.

Jaybeaux

Thanks @Jaybeaux - I removed the following this morning I returned from Catalina this morning:
1) Wood trim piece surrounding the TV compartment (6 screws)
2) Wood cover on flip down TV (6 screws)
3) Removed the TV (which i previously upgraded) (4 screws)
4) Removed the upper trim piece surrounding the TV (2 screws)

By positioning my flashlight I was able to see the make model of the actuator:

Our flip down TV's use the Duff Norton Model TMD02-1406-8 actuator. Here is a link to the product specs and wiring / limit switch:

https://www.duffnorton.com/hubfs/Literature/Linear Actuator/Linear Actuator Specifications/TMD02.pdf

After searching clubsearay for this product number, I found a post by @gerryb from last year where he gives the locations of key items (including this actuator):

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/official-390da-thread.41984/page-12#post-985293

Since this is an industrial type product - it looks like it costs a whopping $500-$550 based on research I have done online.

As I said in my earlier post, the actuator motor makes noise when you press the button, however the "stroke" (the part that extends on the actuator and then pushes the TV up and down) seems to be free moving and is not moving in or out when the motor is engaged. @gerryb also gave a phone number for Duff Norton (800-477-5002) which I will try to call tomorrow during business hours.

My big problem is trying to get the actuator out for repair or replacement - as I haven't figure out how to get the metal TV frame out yet - and I don't know how to get the actuator out unless I can move the steel TV frame. Any suggestions / knowledge are welcome otherwise I will just post additional updates / photos as this repair project progresses ...

Quick question about the vacu-flush head... the forward head seems to bounce between the green light and red light... seems that about every 5 to 10 minutes it turns red for a few - then back to green. I know nothing of this system - but I'd think it probably means I have a small leak somewhere in the system...

Is there any way to diagnose - or better yet - some commonly found issues that would cause this?

Blue Chip said:

Quick question about the vacu-flush head... the forward head seems to bounce between the green light and red light... seems that about every 5 to 10 minutes it turns red for a few - then back to green. I know nothing of this system - but I'd think it probably means I have a small leak somewhere in the system...

Is there any way to diagnose - or better yet - some commonly found issues that would cause this?

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You have a separate vacuum generator for each head. The light is supposed to turn green when the proper vacuum is built up. The most common thing that would cause this a leakdown of the vacuum. If that is the case you should be hearing the vacuum pump kick in and run each time until the light turns green again.

Blue Chip said:

Quick question about the vacu-flush head... the forward head seems to bounce between the green light and red light... seems that about every 5 to 10 minutes it turns red for a few - then back to green. I know nothing of this system - but I'd think it probably means I have a small leak somewhere in the system...

Is there any way to diagnose - or better yet - some commonly found issues that would cause this?

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@Woody / @Blue Chip - we have the same issue with our Master Vacuhead. Woody is right that when our’s turns red we hear the pump come on for a few seconds. When we sleep on the boat at anchor/mooring I actually turn off the master head overnight so we don’t run down the battery. I haven’t had it worked on - but guess the same that there is a leak someplace!

@Blue Chip - If you have yours worked on please let us know where they find the leak - I’ll do the same. I’m hoping it’s something simple like a hose clamp that needs a little tightening as I imaging replacing the entire hose from the head to the bulge would be difficult.

That's exactly what's happening on mine... I can hear the pump re-prime. Not sure how I'd even go about isolating a vacuum leak in the system though...

hynespa said:

@Woody / @Blue Chip - we have the same issue with our Master Vacuhead. Woody is right that when our’s turns red we hear the pump come on for a few seconds. When we sleep on the boat at anchor/mooring I actually turn off the master head overnight so we don’t run down the battery. I haven’t had it worked on - but guess the same that there is a leak someplace!

@Blue Chip - If you have yours worked on please let us know where they find the leak - I’ll do the same. I’m hoping it’s something simple like a hose clamp that needs a little tightening as I imaging replacing the entire hose from the head to the bulge would be difficult.

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Is the bowl dry if you leave it? If yes the bowl seal is likely the culprit.

If no, first try changing the two duckbill valves located in the vacuum generator. If that does not solve the issue it could be several different things including, leaking hose, faulty pressure switch, leaking bellows, bad seal at vacuum generator.

Good tip. The bowl stays full of water - so it's likely not that seal. I'll look into the duckbills / generator replacement... off to learn the search function... thank you!

EDIT: Can anyone confirm size of the duck bill? 1-1/2" or 2"?

BlueChip: duckbills on the 2005 are 1.5 inches and there are 4 per vacuflush systems.

My experience this year, and I had a lot of *fun* with our Master system, is that if you hear the pump running even if you have not flushed, regardless of the light situation, then you have a vacuum leak. As a followup to my issue (see post #2000), I determined the "vacuum pressure switch" was the culprit. In my case, when you would flush, sometimes there would be no vacuum at all and both lights would go out and stay off. Then, up to 1 hour later, the vacuum pump would work and go back to green...until it didn't. Hope this helps.

Blue Chip said:

First full weekend on the hook with the new to me toy - shot with my DJI Mavic Pro...

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Awesome video, thanks for sharing, waiting on my drone to try myself Beautiful boat too!!!

Blue Chip said:

Good tip. The bowl stays full of water - so it's likely not that seal. I'll look into the duckbills / generator replacement... off to learn the search function... thank you!

EDIT: Can anyone confirm size of the duck bill? 1-1/2" or 2"?

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My 2007 44DA has 2" duckbills even though my hoses are only 1.5"

You need 4 duckbills for each vacuum generator.

If your bowl stays full, its most likely the duckbills so I would start there.

Also, look at the condition of the hoses, on my 2007 and I have heard others from 2006 through 2008 have had to replace EVERY hose in the engine room because they were cracked. I put off the Master head hose to last since it was the hardest one to get to, and it was the cause of a vacuum leak that I lived with all summer a couple years ago!

UPDATE ON FLIP DOWN TV ISSUE

As stated in yesterday's post, my flip down TV no longer goes up and also is now swinging freely back and forth in the waves. I have traced the problem to the actuator. Here are some pics:

1) - I removed the TV, frame around the drop down box, piece under the TV, and the ceiling cover and stored them to the side. Removal of these items was pretty easy.

2) - Here is a shot of the bare metal frame with all the items removed.
3) - Here is a shot up into the ceiling with all the items removed. Unfortunately the actuator is not accessible here.
4) - I circled the area where the actuator is located. Unfortunately there is not enough clearance to get to it or remove / repair it.
5) - I previously purchased a wireless endoscopic camera from Amazon for $35.99. I highly recommend this for anybody working on their own boat - it will display the camera images on my iPad. I can take movies or photos with it. It has helped me with several projects where I had to see "behind" or "inside" something.
6) - Here are 3 shots from the endoscopic camera showing the position of the linear actuator. The first pic shows that the back of the actuator is bolted into the metal frame (and the visible frame extends past the visible area several inches into the headliner which makes it impossible to remove without ripping apart the headliner). The middle pic shows the side of the actuator, and the last pic shows where the extendable arm of the actuator (called a "stroke") connects to the swivel part of the frame to raise and lower the frame / TV.
7) - The one part I haven't tried to remove yet is the black wood frame that sits on top of the metal swinging TV frame / bracket. It looks like it is screwed into the metal frame with Phillips screws. If I can figure out how to get those out I might be able to remove the wood frame and have a better chance of getting access to the actuator. The problem is the screws are in an area where it is difficult to reach and impossible to get to with a conventional screwdriver. I am going to look into ordering a "low profile screwdriver" from Amazon (the ones on Home Depot look too big to fit into this tiny space).

Here are some questions for this broader group:

1) Does anybody have other suggestions for me to get to the actuator?
2) I have seen some postings on CSR that talk about removing the headliner, etc to get to certain things like windshield wiper motors. Is it possible to do that or would I end up destroying the fabric, etc?
3) I also was looking at the Sea Ray manual wiring diagrams because I wanted to see how the actuator was wired. However after first looking at the 05 42 Sundancer manual ... then looking at the 06 44 Sundancer ... 07 44 Sundancer ...08 44 Sundancer manuals they all omit the drop down TV actuator from the wiring diagrams. Does anybody have a diagram showing how it is wired in? I know it's not a wiring / electrical issue (it seems to be an issue with the rod / stroke) but I would still like to know how it it wired in ...

Thanks everybody in advance for your help / suggestions!!

4Schrecks said:

BlueChip: duckbills on the 2005 are 1.5 inches and there are 4 per vacuflush systems.

My experience this year, and I had a lot of *fun* with our Master system, is that if you hear the pump running even if you have not flushed, regardless of the light situation, then you have a vacuum leak. As a followup to my issue (see post #2000), I determined the "vacuum pressure switch" was the culprit. In my case, when you would flush, sometimes there would be no vacuum at all and both lights would go out and stay off. Then, up to 1 hour later, the vacuum pump would work and go back to green...until it didn't. Hope this helps.

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Thank you. I believe that I read that in 2006 they changed from 1.5" to 2" - therefore - I believe my 2003 to be 1.5" as well. I'm going to take a look when I get to the boat this weekend. The nice part is that I can't hear the pump run at night... and that it seems to only have this issue every (while). So it's not that bad right this second.... seems like I am going to have a pretty fun project in front of me (said nobody, ever).

Blue Chip said:

Thank you. I believe that I read that in 2006 they changed from 1.5" to 2" - therefore - I believe my 2003 to be 1.5" as well. I'm going to take a look when I get to the boat this weekend. The nice part is that I can't hear the pump run at night... and that it seems to only have this issue every (while). So it's not that bad right this second.... seems like I am going to have a pretty fun project in front of me (said nobody, ever).

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Unfortunately, from what you describe, especially with the lights going on and off, you may have a pressure switch issue like I did. Still not a big deal to fix.