Official 19SPX/21SPX/SPX190/SPX210 Thread

Just my opinion, but I am totally happy with my basic non slip surface. Granted, I fish from my SPX, but I just like the clean simple look. I keep a sponge and a towel at my dock for an occasional wash down. Pretty easy. Again, just my opinion.
 

Attachments

  • 370A9C3E-E304-40CC-87E6-85787BC04D11.jpeg
    370A9C3E-E304-40CC-87E6-85787BC04D11.jpeg
    176.4 KB · Views: 231
  • 68698881-855B-4A91-93F6-704B72B3F86F.jpeg
    68698881-855B-4A91-93F6-704B72B3F86F.jpeg
    175.3 KB · Views: 240
Hi, my parents have a 19SPX and I'm looking to summerize it. However, the marina that winterized it told me that if I were to do what my dad told me to (check the basics, run the motor with muffs for 15-20 mins, etc.) that I could ruin the boat and I should just bring it to them to summarize instead. Are they just trying to make a few extra bucks, or am I not able to do this myself? Sorry for the ignorance, any sort of help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi, my parents have a 19SPX and I'm looking to summerize it. However, the marina that winterized it told me that if I were to do what my dad told me to (check the basics, run the motor with muffs for 15-20 mins, etc.) that I could ruin the boat and I should just bring it to them to summarize instead. Are they just trying to make a few extra bucks, or am I not able to do this myself? Sorry for the ignorance, any sort of help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
I noticed you said "non ECT". Are you outside of the States?

Whether or not you can just charge the battery, check vitals, put a set of muffs on there (with adequate water flow) and start it up depends on how it was put away. For example, did they remove any of the blue drain plugs? But as long as you feel comfortable doing it, there's absolutely no reason you can't do it yourself.
 
Just my opinion, but I am totally happy with my basic non slip surface. Granted, I fish from my SPX, but I just like the clean simple look. I keep a sponge and a towel at my dock for an occasional wash down. Pretty easy. Again, just my opinion.
For 50 years now I have always had non-skid flooring like nautolex. Easy to wash down, broom out the solid stuff and it always looks good even when dirty.

Two years ago we bought a Boston Whaler with a FG inner liner. It always looks dirty, and I have to clean it after every outing.

The SeaRay we bought this year was ordered with snap-in SeaDek. Much better than an unfinished floor, better than seagrass, better than nautolex and better than carpet (which I would never own).

Its great that we have so many choices to satisfy everyone's opinion.
 
Hi, my parents have a 19SPX and I'm looking to summerize it. However, the marina that winterized it told me that if I were to do what my dad told me to (check the basics, run the motor with muffs for 15-20 mins, etc.) that I could ruin the boat and I should just bring it to them to summarize instead. Are they just trying to make a few extra bucks, or am I not able to do this myself? Sorry for the ignorance, any sort of help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Some years ago we paid big bucks to have a boat winterized. I checked it out on the muffs next spring and all seemed OK. So, we put it in the water and half way down the river a hose blew off and the boat sank, virtually ruining the engine.

After salvaging the boat and making a close inspection, it was apparent that the dealer didn't tighten the hose clamp the previous fall. The dealer wouldn't own up to their mistake and we were out more big bucks.

You learn as you go. Now I do it all myself and check my own work.

Summarizing is a scam. You pay hundreds of dollars to get it done, and in essence the dealer is double charging you to verify that they didn't screw it up the last time they worked on it.

Pay $200 to winterize, $200 to summarize, or do both yourself for a lousy 20 bucks. All you need is an owner's manual (free from Merc) and 2 hours of your time.
 
I noticed you said "non ECT". Are you outside of the States?

Whether or not you can just charge the battery, check vitals, put a set of muffs on there (with adequate water flow) and start it up depends on how it was put away. For example, did they remove any of the blue drain plugs? But as long as you feel comfortable doing it, there's absolutely no reason you can't do it yourself.

Thank you for responding. I'm located in NY but the engine is definitely non-ECT, I copied the name of the motor directly from the cover of the manual. As for the rest of your response I'm not actually sure; my dad had it winterized and can't remember what they did and the marina has yet to answer a phone call since the first one telling me that I'd ruin the boat if I did it myself. They were somewhat shady about telling me anything the first time, so part of me thinks that I could do it myself and they just want the money. However, that's not something I want to be wrong about. Is there some sort of list I could go through and check to see if they did anything extra? I'm good with cars and helped my dad a bit with the old boat so I'd feel comfortable doing it if I knew what to do and look for, but I feel like I'm going in blind here. Here's a more detailed post I made earlier today if it helps at all: http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/de-winterizing-inquiry.93909/
 
Some years ago we paid big bucks to have a boat winterized. I checked it out on the muffs next spring and all seemed OK. So, we put it in the water and half way down the river a hose blew off and the boat sank, virtually ruining the engine.

After salvaging the boat and making a close inspection, it was apparent that the dealer didn't tighten the hose clamp the previous fall. The dealer wouldn't own up to their mistake and we were out more big bucks.

You learn as you go. Now I do it all myself and check my own work.

Summarizing is a scam. You pay hundreds of dollars to get it done, and in essence the dealer is double charging you to verify that they didn't screw it up the last time they worked on it.

Pay $200 to winterize, $200 to summarize, or do both yourself for a lousy 20 bucks. All you need is an owner's manual (free from Merc) and 2 hours of your time.

Thanks for replying. I sort of got that vibe when they wouldn't tell me why it would hurt the boat, just that it would and I shouldn't do it. Is there a guide or video somewhere that you'd recommend in order to make sure I check everything that needs to be checked and (hopefully) avoid that sort of situation? I'd really hate to make a mistake like that and ruin someone else's property that they trusted me to use and properly take care of.
 
Thanks for replying. I sort of got that vibe when they wouldn't tell me why it would hurt the boat, just that it would and I shouldn't do it. Is there a guide or video somewhere that you'd recommend in order to make sure I check everything that needs to be checked and (hopefully) avoid that sort of situation? I'd really hate to make a mistake like that and ruin someone else's property that they trusted me to use and properly take care of.
The owner's manual for my last Merc I/O had detailed instructions about what to to to winterize, as well as steps to bring the boat out of long term storage. I don't know what the current manual says, but that would be the first place to look.

Buy a Shop manual if you are inclined to spend close to $100, or get a cheap Seloc manual.

Basically, you need to check for coolant flow and temp, very that there are no fuel, oil or water leaks, inspect the bellows, steering,etc. Put it in the water and check for leaks.

To tell the truth, after doing it so many times I don't even use the muffs to summarize. She goes in the water and we take her for a ride. I know i did it right last fall because i have a 2 page checklist and I verify each item was checked off.
 
Has anyone had an issue with their tachometer. Mine has stopped working and I can not find a replacement. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Has anyone had an issue with their tachometer. Mine has stopped working and I can not find a replacement. Any help would be appreciated.
It's under warranty. :)

But if you want to do something yourself, check the wires on the back side (clean/tight). Generally, tachs last a long, long time so 'usually' it's something simple that's wrong.
 
New to the forum, first time poster. Picked up a new-to-me 2017 spx 210 two weeks ago without a trailer. We do have a trailer for our prior boat (21ft tahoe). How feasible is it to modify the trailer to fit the spx 210? Anybody willing to post pics and/or give bunk width measurements? Or would this be something the manufacturer would have easy access to?
 
Yes it does look like it was designed that way. Seems like it should have been finished a little better.
Sorry so late in responding but my 2016 OB does has that cutout and, as LazyDaze pointed out, it looks like it was designed that way. However mine is completely filled with white sealant so it appears to blend in seamlessly with the transom. I guess that’s why I never noticed it. It looks like someone didn’t fill yours in. Easy fix to do yourself though.
 
New to the forum, first time poster. Picked up a new-to-me 2017 spx 210 two weeks ago without a trailer. We do have a trailer for our prior boat (21ft tahoe). How feasible is it to modify the trailer to fit the spx 210? Anybody willing to post pics and/or give bunk width measurements? Or would this be something the manufacturer would have easy access to?
First check the carrying capacity of the trailer and then find your boat's weight, including fuel, batteries, options, gear.
 
First check the carrying capacity of the trailer and then find your boat's weight, including fuel, batteries, options, gear.

Excellent point. The spx actually weighs about 300lb less than the prior boat. I'll have to confirm the carrying capacity for the trailer but it should be ok.
 
Excellent point. The spx actually weighs about 300lb less than the prior boat. I'll have to confirm the carrying capacity for the trailer but it should be ok.
If that all checks out OK, the next question is whether or not the trailer is adjustable. As far adjusting the bunks, just measure the distance between the Sea Ray's strakes and transfer that to your trailer. You may/may not need to adjust the trailer winch post or slide the axles, as well, to get the proper tongue weight. You're looking at 5%-7% as ideal.

FYI... if you can get it somewhat close so you can haul it to a decent boat yard, it would probably take them no more than 1 to 2 hours to make sure it is just right.
 
If that all checks out OK, the next question is whether or not the trailer is adjustable. As far adjusting the bunks, just measure the distance between the Sea Ray's strakes and transfer that to your trailer. You may/may not need to adjust the trailer winch post or slide the axles, as well, to get the proper tongue weight. You're looking at 5%-7% as ideal.

FYI... if you can get it somewhat close so you can haul it to a decent boat yard, it would probably take them no more than 1 to 2 hours to make sure it is just right.

Excellent info. Thanks!
 
Sorry so late in responding but my 2016 OB does has that cutout and, as LazyDaze pointed out, it looks like it was designed that way. However mine is completely filled with white sealant so it appears to blend in seamlessly with the transom. I guess that’s why I never noticed it. It looks like someone didn’t fill yours in. Easy fix to do yourself though.

I picked up some 3M 4000 sealant and filled it in. I noticed this after I had the motor lowered. All is good now. Next project is to replace the hub in the prop. Acting like it has spun out. Wa doing this prior to the lowering of the motor.
Thanks for the replies.
 
Saw this on the FB site. Easy fix for an annoying problem with the glove box not staying open. Especially bad for those who have the radios in there. Picked this up at West Marine.

I just want to say, “Thanks! again, Bridog - I FINALLY got around to mounting one of those stainless steel hatch “hold open” springs for The Admiral, an hour ago!

(In case it assists anyone else, I used a 7/64” bit to drill pilot holes (and then ever so lightly counterbored the two fiberglass holes with a 1/8” drill bit, slowly in reverse) and then

I used pan head Phillips stainless steel sheet metal screws #6 x 3/8” long in the 1/2” thick (synthetic (plastic?) hatch lid top; and #6 x 1/2” long for the bottom bracket (into the fiberglass) ...

The Admiral is thrilled - we no longer have to worry about anyone’s (especially little grandchildren’s! :-O getting their fingers (or head) slammed as they try to juggle holding that hatch lid open while simultaneously trying to retrieve anything out of that compartment (while the boat is moving)!
 

Attachments

  • 64CF25F3-53E6-4FB9-8468-0032C7A93D94.jpeg
    64CF25F3-53E6-4FB9-8468-0032C7A93D94.jpeg
    53 KB · Views: 185
Next project is to replace the hub in the prop. Acting like it has spun out. Wa doing this prior to the lowering of the motor.Thanks for the replies.

Hey moondoggie - Glad you got that sorted out!

I am curious what tipped you the hub in the prop may need replacing?

I ask as, last week we were towing 2 of the grand kiddies (13yoa = 130lbs and 9yoa =70lbs) on a SportStuff ‘Big Mable’ and there were a couple times the rpms shot up but without a corresponding “forward momentum” of the boat - it almost felt as if the prop was out of the water ... VERY weird. We shut the boat down momentarily and I checked the prop etc as best I could from the water and I didn’t notice anything out of order.

We fired the boat back up and quit towing (it was late and time to wrap that activity up, anyway) but, I took the boat up to WOT on a straight run and it didn’t do it again.

We just go back into town after returning the kids to their parents and haven’t had the oppty to take the boat out again (we’re both pretty nervous thinking about it)
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,950
Messages
1,422,862
Members
60,932
Latest member
juliediane
Back
Top