Adding Extra SS Anchor Chain For Ballast

I just changed to all chain, I went with 225’ 5/16 G4 HT. Anchoring is much easier, but I don’t really see any difference in ride, I do also have a hydraulic platform with a 700lbs tender.
 
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Just a thought here...

You have two separate issues. On is you want new chain, the other is that you want added weight in the bow. Why not separate the two issues? Get the right amount of chain for your boat and your use, then get lead ballast to give your boat proper trim.

Lead is 44% more dense than stainless steel, so more efficient for added weight. It’s a time tested ballast material, relatively inexpensive, and can be formed to fit space available to ensure it stays put.

Another advantage is that while your chain idea gives you a one shot chance at getting the weight right, you could add and subtract lead over time to dial in ideal trim.
 
You have some
Sea Gull said:
Just a thought here...

You have two separate issues. On is you want new chain, the other is that you want added weight in the bow. Why not separate the two issues? Get the right amount of chain for your boat and your use, then get lead ballast to give your boat proper trim.

Lead is 44% more dense than stainless steel, so more efficient for added weight. It’s a time tested ballast material, relatively inexpensive, and can be formed to fit space available to ensure it stays put.

Another advantage is that while your chain idea gives you a one shot chance at getting the weight right, you could add and subtract lead over time to dial in ideal trim.
Click to expand...

You speak good sense, my only thought was about the weight being potentially useable or dead ...
 
I recently changed from 200 feet of line rode to 250 feet of galvanized all-chain rode. I didn't see much of any difference in the ride quality. I'd think that with a boat of your size - which is much larger than mine - you would need a whole heck of a lot of weight in the bow to modify your trim angle when running. I think of it this way

As an alternative or addition to the weight in the bow, have you considered modifying your trim tabs? If space allows, you could change the tabs to a wider version, or get / have made tabs with vertical "drop fin". The fin serves to channel the water flow for a better lifting effect. Some owners that have added "finned" tabs have reported a significant increase in tab effectiveness.
 
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b_arrington said:
I recently changed from 200 feet of line rode to 250 feet of galvanized all-chain rode. I didn't see much of any difference in the ride quality. I'd think that with a boat of your size - which is much larger than mine - you would need a whole heck of a lot of weight in the bow to modify your trim angle when running. I think of it this way

As an alternative or addition to the weight in the bow, have you considered modifying your trim tabs? If space allows, you could change the tabs to a wider version, or get / have made tabs with vertical "drop fin". The fin serves to channel the water flow for a better lifting effect. Some owners that have added "finned" tabs have reported a significant increase in tab effectiveness.
Click to expand...

Hey Brad, yeh thought about that and read the posts on this site about it but appears results not convincing enough for the hassle. Even looked into the Zipwakes (my potential Alamo...)

I know this is going to sound a little weird, but interestingly I’m looking at how aircraft do it and the big ones tend to shift weight around to adjust attitude (c of g) instead of using trim surfaces to do it

But if you added 250 feet with little result then I guess it’s back to the drawing board ...

Anyone had experience with Zipwakes?
 
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I can’t believe this hasn’t been discussed but stainless chain is not strong enough to use as anchor chain. There are a couple special stainless alloys but they are cost prohibitive. You should research this and you will end up with galvanized. I would look up the specs but I am mobile and just wanted to point this out before you make a mistake.
 
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NotHerDecision said:
I can’t believe this hasn’t been discussed but stainless chain is not strong enough to use as anchor chain. There are a couple special stainless alloys but they are cost prohibitive. You should research this and you will end up with galvanized. I would look up the specs but I am mobile and just wanted to point this out before you make a mistake.
Click to expand...

A number of people have expressed similar concerns and views. Is there any evidence to support this? Would love to hear any firsthand experiences on the use of Stainless chain - especially bad ones. Quite a few of my friends with bigger boats than mine swear by it but then we are coastal cruisers anchoring in relatively sheltered bays.
 
Sure there is proof. G43 5/16 galvanized has a working load limit of 3900lbs. G4 316 stainless has a WLL of 2200lbs. Now the wll could vary a couple of hundred pounds based on manufacturer but it’s still significantly weaker.

Also cost wise you are talking 4 dollars a foot versus 7.50/ft

As far as first hand experience, I can’t provide any for stainless but I’m not going to be the guy that spent more money on an inferior product that I may trust my boat and life to in a storm.

Also you must buy the proper link for your windlass so check to see what type of chain your gypsy will spool as well.
 
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NotHerDecision said:
Sure there is proof. G43 5/16 galvanized has a working load limit of 3900lbs. G4 316 stainless has a WLL of 2200lbs. Now the wll could vary a couple of hundred pounds based on manufacturer but it’s still significantly weaker.

Also cost wise you are talking 4 dollars a foot versus 7.50/ft
Click to expand...

Didn’t realise more than a third diff in strength - Quite significant... Price too... Thanks
 

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I just re-read my post. I kinda sound like a smart a**. Didn’t mean it at all. I went through the same process at first too and realized it just didn’t make since. First chain supply is a good choice of vendor btw. If you can get a neighbor to split it with you then you can save big money buying a barrel.

Josh
 
NotHerDecision said:
I just re-read my post. I kinda sound like a smart a**. Didn’t mean it at all. I went through the same process at first too and realized it just didn’t make since. First chain supply is a good choice of vendor btw. If you can get a neighbor to split it with you then you can save big money buying a barrel.

Josh
Click to expand...

No probs at all Josh, short sweet and to the point - can’t argue with that. Just wished it was simple case of buy the right length of chain for anchoring, plus a little extra for mum and the kids to get that bow down and move on ... No such luck from the sounds of it
 
If you’re boat is anything like mine then getting the bow down probably isn’t the problem. The way I look at things, what I need to do is get the stern up. My bow gets down in the water nicely but the illusion is that it is riding bow high because the heavy stern is squatting in the water.
BTW: I already have 200’ of chain.
 
JVM225 said:
If you’re boat is anything like mine then getting the bow down probably isn’t the problem. The way I look at things, what I need to do is get the stern up. My bow gets down in the water nicely but the illusion is that it is riding bow high because the heavy stern is squatting in the water.
BTW: I already have 200’ of chain.
Click to expand...

So you reckon concentrate on the tabs? All the great experiences and advice shared on this thread have lead me to believe adding extra chain won’t help and Galvanised chain is far superior to Stainless.

I’m glad I consulted you all first. Would’ve thrown a lot of money (and some perfectly serviceable chain) away for no reason
 
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Blueone said:
I don’t get the stainless for chain? Typically SS chain is cheap stainless with impurities that can still rust and on top of that stainless is weaker. I would go galvanized and get rid of the rope completely.
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Yes there is that inexpensive Chinese stainless chain (18-8 or lower alloy) however there is domestic 316L stainless which is more costly but will not corrode. You can get the 316L stainless chain from Suncor.
 
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NotHerDecision said:
Sure there is proof. G43 5/16 galvanized has a working load limit of 3900lbs. G4 316 stainless has a WLL of 2200lbs. Now the wll could vary a couple of hundred pounds based on manufacturer but it’s still significantly weaker.

Also cost wise you are talking 4 dollars a foot versus 7.50/ft

As far as first hand experience, I can’t provide any for stainless but I’m not going to be the guy that spent more money on an inferior product that I may trust my boat and life to in a storm.

Also you must buy the proper link for your windlass so check to see what type of chain your gypsy will spool as well.
Click to expand...
Needed is Grade BBB chain which is available in 316L SST. The major difference is the SST will yield and deform long before it breaks which is not the case for carbon steel. Regardless a working load of 2.2 KIPS is significant and I wouldn't think twice for it being suitable for my 52DB.
 
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Here’s a little different perspective. If you want the chain, add it, but weight wise it’s not enough to make a difference. I have 250’ of chain. Original option. Some were ordered with combination rodes. The boat doesn’t know the difference.
Adding weight because it’s something you want or need is fine but I’m not a fan of adding weight just to add weight.
When we’re traveling, the heavy stuff goes up front to offset the dinghy and full fuel and water most of the time, spare props, extra tools, water pumps etc. these boats have all kinds of in floor storage up front. Practically nothing in the engine room. When we’re in home water, that stuff goes home or in the dock box, I figure I can limp back to the dock if something goes wrong.
I just don’t want the weight on the boat.
When we came back from the Bahamas to Ft Pierce this year it wasn’t a great day that got unexpectedly worse by the time we reached the inlet. I’m glad Sea Ray didn’t make that bow any shorter than it already is.
One of the nice advantages of your bridge boat is great visibility even with the bow a couple inches higher.
So in a nutshell, I do what I can do with the stuff I have and need on board to balance the boat out, but I don’t consider being a little stern heavy a bad thing, and less “permanent” weight is good.
 
AEO said:
So you reckon concentrate on the tabs? All the great experiences and advice shared on this thread have lead me to believe adding extra chain won’t help and Galvanised chain is far superior to Stainless.

I’m glad I consulted you all first. Would’ve thrown a lot of money (and some perfectly serviceable chain) away for no reason
Click to expand...

Yes, concentrate on the tabs. The less boat in the water, the faster it will go and more efficient it will be.
Check to see what other owners of your model have done and give Bennett a call to see if they can advise you.
If I remember correctly, Bennett told me they recommend an inch of tab for every foot of boat. My 24” wide tabs fall woefully short.
Unfortunately, when I called Bennett the guy I spoke with could only make a general recommendation but cautioned me to check with other diesel 410 owners to see what they had done and how it effected performance because my transom is not square, and neither are the factory tabs.
On a side note: I love having the all chain rode for anchoring.
 
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my3sons said:
Here’s a little different perspective. If you want the chain, add it, but weight wise it’s not enough to make a difference. I have 250’ of chain. Original option. Some were ordered with combination rodes. The boat doesn’t know the difference.
Adding weight because it’s something you want or need is fine but I’m not a fan of adding weight just to add weight.
When we’re traveling, the heavy stuff goes up front to offset the dinghy and full fuel and water most of the time, spare props, extra tools, water pumps etc. these boats have all kinds of in floor storage up front. Practically nothing in the engine room. When we’re in home water, that stuff goes home or in the dock box, I figure I can limp back to the dock if something goes wrong.
I just don’t want the weight on the boat.
When we came back from the Bahamas to Ft Pierce this year it wasn’t a great day that got unexpectedly worse by the time we reached the inlet. I’m glad Sea Ray didn’t make that bow any shorter than it already is.
One of the nice advantages of your bridge boat is great visibility even with the bow a couple inches higher.
So in a nutshell, I do what I can do with the stuff I have and need on board to balance the boat out, but I don’t consider being a little stern heavy a bad thing, and less “permanent” weight is good.
Click to expand...
ttmott said:
Needed is Grade BBB chain which is available in 316L SST. The major difference is the SST will yield and deform long before it breaks which is not the case for carbon steel. Regardless a working load of 2.2 KIPS is significant and I wouldn't think twice for it being suitable for my 52DB.
Click to expand...

I’ve pretty much gone off thinking I can add some extra chain for ballast but will still buy 250 feet for the anchor. ttmott gave some good advice on what to look for so I’ll ensure it meets the specs he mentioned.

As for the trim issue, I would like to see what options are out there. wasn’t overly concerned about it being a little stern heavy at first, but the more I read about owners making their tabs bigger and/or adding drop fins, and the fact they seemed to return positive results has got my attention... Any advice greatly appreciated
 
JVM225 said:
Yes, concentrate on the tabs. The less boat in the water, the faster it will go and more efficient it will be.
Check to see what other owners of your model have done and give Bennett a call to see if they can advise you.
If I remember correctly, Bennett told me they recommend an inch of tab for every foot of boat. My 24” wide tabs fall woefully short.
Unfortunately, when I called Bennett the guy I spoke with could only make a general recommendation but cautioned me to check with other diesel 410 owners to see what they had done and how it effected performance because my transom is not square, and neither are the factory tabs.
On a side note: I love having the all chain rode for anchoring.
Click to expand...

I have a feeling mine are on the small side also.
 
my3sons said:
Here’s a little different perspective. If you want the chain, add it, but weight wise it’s not enough to make a difference. I have 250’ of chain. Original option. Some were ordered with combination rodes. The boat doesn’t know the difference.
Adding weight because it’s something you want or need is fine but I’m not a fan of adding weight just to add weight.
When we’re traveling, the heavy stuff goes up front to offset the dinghy and full fuel and water most of the time, spare props, extra tools, water pumps etc. these boats have all kinds of in floor storage up front. Practically nothing in the engine room. When we’re in home water, that stuff goes home or in the dock box, I figure I can limp back to the dock if something goes wrong.
I just don’t want the weight on the boat.
When we came back from the Bahamas to Ft Pierce this year it wasn’t a great day that got unexpectedly worse by the time we reached the inlet. I’m glad Sea Ray didn’t make that bow any shorter than it already is.
One of the nice advantages of your bridge boat is great visibility even with the bow a couple inches higher.
So in a nutshell, I do what I can do with the stuff I have and need on board to balance the boat out, but I don’t consider being a little stern heavy a bad thing, and less “permanent” weight is good.
Click to expand...

I was just curious what you meant when you said ‘your glad Sea Ray didn’t make that bow any shorter than it actually is ..’
 
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