trim

Good morning!
So the wife and I made our last run of the year down the Hudson River this weekend from Albany to the Kingston City Marina. What A great time! Now for my problem. The trim gauge is not working anymore. (the trim DOES still work though) What happened is that I trimmed the boat out and then had to slow down. When I put the trim back down the gauge stayed where I had set it while cruising. As I was checking it for proper operation the gauge would only increase but never move back down. So by the time I had tried this 3-4 times, the gauge was now at the full UP position and stays there. Remember, the lower unit DOES work correctly but needle stuck full up.

Any thoughts on this as I don't know this system at all. I have a 1996 Sundancer 250 with a Bravo one Outdrive

thanks, Dan

Either the screws weren’t tight on the trim sender and it’s slipped or (more likely) the pivot bolt on that side rotated in the bell housing. See if you can rotate the sender (I forget which side the trim sender is in) by hand. If so, adjust it and relighted the 2 philips head screws. If it’s already tight, you’ll need her outta the water to secure the loose pivot bolt.

Seapig said:

Either the screws weren’t tight on the trim sender and it’s slipped or (more likely) the pivot bolt on that side rotated in the bell housing. See if you can rotate the sender (I forget which side the trim sender is in) by hand. If so, adjust it and relighted the 2 philips head screws. If it’s already tight, you’ll need her outta the water to secure the loose pivot bolt.

Click to expand...

Ok, I will look at it at noon time. there are 2 switches. one must be limit and the other for gauge.
thanks

d-reed said:

Ok, I will look at it at noon time. there are 2 switches. one must be limit and the other for gauge.
thanks

Click to expand...

So I removed the rheostat switch yesterday. It had some water in it and half of the copper contact, on the top is dark in color compared to the other half. Tried cleaning it but it still does not work. Ordered a new one and it should be here tomorrow. I'll put it on and report back.

Its hard to get a permanent seal on the wireing if you splice to install. If the old wires are intact and not corroded internally you might get away with it if you used internal adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors covered with sealed heat shrink tube filled with sealant before shrinking.

The sure way is to rewire through the transom housing as is done new so there are no splices in the wiring under water.

Give the gauge a few good whacks.

Creekwood said:

Its hard to get a permanent seal on the wireing if you splice to install. If the old wires are intact and not corroded internally you might get away with it if you used internal adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors covered with sealed heat shrink tube filled with sealant before shrinking.

The sure way is to rewire through the transom housing as is done new so there are no splices in the wiring under water.

Click to expand...

I do have all the proper stuff to do a repair that will be under water if I go that route. I will more than likely borrow some tools and repair it the correct way. Might just as well change all the bellows while I'm in there.