Cummins Marine Aftercooler Maintenance

BlueYonder said:
Set up an account with Cummins Quickserve. Put in your ESN and you will have access to the information you need
Click to expand...

This is the way to go. The account is free so long as you have less than 5 engines you want to register.

Just note that you will still need to be sure to use the marine version of the manuals. Under my engine there are both non-marine and marine versions listed.
 
the sections in the manuals cover all engines of the size. scrolling down should bring up a section for marine. if not, send over the engine serial and i will get the pages to you. if yours is a shaft boat, i believe the gear cooler is tucked in behind the charge air cooler. having the cac off makes it easy to get to the gear cooler and service it as well
 
BlueYonder said:
Set up an account with Cummins Quickserve. Put in your ESN and you will have access to the information you need
Click to expand...
Mucho Gracias Amigo! that will be handy info for my Ram 2500 as well. Do you buy your gaskets and O-rings in kits from SB Marine or find it just as easy and efficient to buy from Cummins directly? Tony's kit is nice but I can get or already have everything in the kit except the O-rings.
Carpe Diem
 
You can get just the oring kit from SBMar, it should be on the website, if not just call.

The Cummins kit is well over $500 per engine.
 
Tony’s kit on Sbmar has o rings that are slightly oversized versus the Cummins oem. I would use his for sure and all of the parts are separately available as well. The alco metalube is probably the single most important item
 
NotHerDecision said:
Tony’s kit on Sbmar has o rings that are slightly oversized versus the Cummins oem. I would use his for sure and all of the parts are separately available as well. The alco metalube is probably the single most important item
Click to expand...
Ok thanks, I’ll go that route, I registered with Quickserve this morning so looking forward to wading into this project. Gonna be tough manipulating the wrenches with my fingers crossed but that’s the way I’ll be doing it. I have no record of the seawater side ever being opened so I’m hoping the neutrasalt has done its job!
Carpe Diem
 
NotHerDecision said:
Tony’s kit on Sbmar has o rings that are slightly oversized versus the Cummins oem. I would use his for sure and all of the parts are separately available as well. The alco metalube is probably the single most important item
Click to expand...
Tony’s kit comes with a skinny and a fatter o-ring, which should I use?
 
Should be the same for 6cta are your qsc?
 
Irie308 said:
Tony’s kit comes with a skinny and a fatter o-ring, which should I use?
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Irie, just did mine last month and ordered the parts from Seaboard. I ordered the individual o-rings (+metalub) vs the kit (didn't need the oil, rector or zincs). I selected the '6CTA & QSL' option - there was only one o-ring shown on the web site and only one was shipped (which matched the size of the old one).

I don't see on their web site where two o-rings are included (for 6CTA) … if you got two, choose the one that is the same size as the one being removed.

Mine went smoothly (fresh water was very beneficial) … hopefully yours do as well.
 
Tomco said:
\
Irie, just did mine last month and ordered the parts from Seaboard. I ordered the individual o-rings (+metalub) vs the kit (didn't need the oil, rector or zincs). I selected the '6CTA & QSL' option - there was only one o-ring shown on the web site and only one was shipped (which matched the size of the old one).

I don't see on their web site where two o-rings are included (for 6CTA) … if you got two, choose the one that is the same size as the one being removed.

Mine went smoothly (fresh water was very beneficial) … hopefully yours do as well.
Click to expand...
Yup, that's the one i ordered and 2 showed up in the the kit. I was planning to match up with the one that came off but was wondering what the benefit of the the thicker one would be.
 
You definitely need 2 o rings. One on each side of the core. There is lots of information about this under Tony’s tips on sbmar.com. If you only replaced one how did you seal the other side of the aftercooler?
 
NotHerDecision said:
You definitely need 2 o rings. One on each side of the core. There is lots of information about this under Tony’s tips on sbmar.com. If you only replaced one how did you seal the other side of the aftercooler?
Click to expand...
I should clarify that I received 2 "sets" in each o-ring package.
 
NotHerDecision said:
You definitely need 2 o rings. One on each side of the core. There is lots of information about this under Tony’s tips on sbmar.com. If you only replaced one how did you seal the other side of the aftercooler?
Click to expand...
I was referring to the how many sizes were included in the order - I only received one size (with two o-rings in the kit)
 
C1BB872C-1BF1-4BF6-97BF-DBC085F545D8.jpeg
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6C262588-0DEB-4F1A-8A46-7A7058F647B4.jpeg

I removed my Starboard engine After cooler and fuel/oil heat exchanger for inspection and cleaning. I was planning on doing one engine this year and the other next. I think after what I’ve found in this one I’ll be doing both.
No corrosion or pitting evidence just a lot of calcium build up.
CD
 
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