Bravo 3 shift cable installation question

Danny Troy

Danny Troy

Member
Oct 8, 2009
861
Candlewood Lake, CT
Boat Info
2003 280 Sundancer
Engines
496MAG w/genset
I just did the JR Marine method of replacing the swivel shaft, and while I was at it I also did the U-joints and gimbal bearing. Also replaced the bellows and hoses. I have a question on re-installing of the drive concerning the shift cable. Since this is the first time I've removed and re-installed a B3, I'm not sure about the shift cable attachment gizmo. Does it look OK in the photos. What actually locks the cable into the fitting after the drive is on? I'm guess the part on the bell housing is what pushes against it to lock it on. Is this correct? Thanks for any advice. BTW, I know I need to replace the seals before re-installing the drive. As you can see I haven't cleaned the drive surfaces yet.
 

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The drive shifter linkage {photo}has jaws that capture the end of the cable. Pull the jaws forward so they open up
 
Yes, I see a flap that swings out to capture the cable end. Does pushing the drive back on lock that assembly? Looks weird to me!
 
Is your shift linkage aluminum? Am sure someone can correct me if wrong, but I believe the new ones are steel. My B2 had an aluminum jaw originally. They wear down over time and can actually release the cable and leave you stuck in forward. Found that out the hard way 90 km's from the dock. Thought they were all replace with steel in'99. The earlier ones had a bulletin out for them.
 
I just checked and mine is steel. It does look like it has some wear though. I won't worry about it since on the lake I boat on, I usually drive a mile and a half and drop anchor for the day. I also looked more closely at the fitting, and I can see where it would be impossible to open up, once inserted in the mating piece. Thanks for the help guys! This total job has been scary, so I guess I'm being a bit paranoid, wanting to get everything just right.
 
I just found this photo, and it looks exactly what I have, so I'm good to go!
 

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When I installed my B3’s I place the helm shifter in forward which extends the cable out of the bell housing. Then I pull the shift latching mechanism in the drive with a pair of needle nose pliers towards the front of the drive housing while rotating the prop. This process facilitates the mating of the cable and latch.
As the drive is mated to the bell housing rotate the prop so that the drive shifts in to forward matching the position of the helm shifter.
 
I believe you can disconnect the shift cable from the actuator in the engine room and manually move the cable. Just make sure there is a person rotating the prop as the cable is being moved.
 
Spark600 said:
How do you do that with DTS
Click to expand...
I have DTS and don’t need to disconnect the upper cable.

When removing the drive, I slide it back just enough to lift and disengage the clip.

When installing it, make sure the clip is still extended outside of the drive, when sliding the drive back on, it automatically engages and I haven’t had an issue with it.
 
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