Official Searay 200 Thread

Wild Man said:
That would be great! I appreciate the quick reply! Have a good day
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Thank you very much! I was hoping Great Lakes was the original OEM, because their sister company Westland seems to make a nicer cover than Carver. Have a good afternoon!
 
Greetings Earthlings! We are here to help. You will receive the simple forms and nominal billings in the next few days. Please bear in mind that resistance is futile!
My just acquired craft ($15,000 Terra-bucks)
Docked..jpg
is a 2003 Bowrider 200 a/k/a "Select" with the overwhelming thrust of an Alpha 1 drive spun by a 260 hp 5.0 L MPI (that's a 305 cu in GM small block w/ port injection.) It is stationed in my garage where I will avoid human company for the remainder of the winter. Having confined previous boating to big outboards, this 333 hour sterndrive demands attention. Boat was winterized days before purchase and I'd like to put the 2 blue plugs back in. First discovery was that the bulkhead in front of the engine came out with just 4 screws. Obvious chores are oil, drive oil, oil filter, gas filter/separator, spare black prop core for the glove box. Happy to drain the oil out of a little umbilicus tube protruding from the bilge drain. Questions: Serpentine belt? PCV valve? What else?
Big question is should I add a set of matching drum brakes to the other axle of the tandem trailer as I may tow this 4,500 lb package with my little 3,500 lb rated XT5 occasionally, around town (never over a hill!)? I've put disks on a trailer before but it is a job. Persevere Earthlings as you are under imminent and dire threat from evil and unseen forces! We will guard your weather, your inherent rights and your sacred government and you will enjoy and be happy!
 
Everything you outline is good
Inspect the belt replace if it looks bad

MPIs have some trouble with distributor cap would check that plugs and wires replace as needed. If you don’t know when water pump impeller was done would have that done to zero out the mileage on it. Also inspect all three bellows for cracks and dry rot depending on Condition replace
 
Thank you. Working on impeller. Would not have thought of cap and wires. On impeller, drive did not want to join up. I had knocked it out of gear and could not rotate shaft cc to align splines. I dropped it down on 2.5" bolts and was able to grab shift shaft with pliers.
 
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Does anyone have a pdf of the 1992 - 1996 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter owners manual? I downloaded the 1993 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter OB spec sheet from the Sea Ray website but they do not have an owner's manual available. I was also able to download the owners manual for the Mercury outboard I have, so I'm good there.
 
Does anyone have suggestions for a discharged optional Halon bottle. Needle is at bottom of green and light is out. Halon is N/A. SeaRay part is $550.00. Replacement for Halon is FM 200. I will leave the helm unit although technically I should use the one that comes with new bottle: SeaFire or FireBoy. The 1st issue is the size of engine compartment as they sell by volume to be extinguished. Got the old one out and it is rated at 75 cu ft, a 3" x 12" cylinder. An expansive measurement of the compartment results in 60 cu. ft so 75 should do. FM200 is bigger than Halon. Looks to cost around $250.00 but having an auto-extinguisher that makes no mess sounds good. CO2 does not seem to be an option. Love to hear from someone who has already solved this riddle. I'm in Seattle with nearby distributors so I don't have to include a toxic transport charge! PS. Got a Fireboy shipped to me by Jamestown Distributors for total of $275 including an added $13 in mystery tax after I paid. Fisheries Supply was $323 + 10% tax. Good prices available from Rex Marine or Marine 2 Go. Should be able to fit this 4.3" x 15" cylinder in existing bracket.
 
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Chip S said:
Does anyone have a pdf of the 1992 - 1996 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter owners manual? I downloaded the 1993 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter OB spec sheet from the Sea Ray website but they do not have an owner's manual available. I was also able to download the owners manual for the Mercury outboard I have, so I'm good there.
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I have a 1994 200OVOB, I have the 1994 owners manual, brochure and parts sheet. Files appear to be to large to upload. Direct Message me an email, and I'll forward to you. I also have a repair for a 1994 Mercury 135HP Blackmax. Some overlap in it for other HP.
 
CNYBoater said:
I have a 1994 200OVOB, I have the 1994 owners manual, brochure and parts sheet. Files appear to be to large to upload. Direct Message me an email, and I'll forward to you. I also have a repair for a 1994 Mercury 135HP Blackmax. Some overlap in it for other HP.
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PM sent. Thanks for the help.
 
FireBoy.jpg

The depleted halon bottle is on the left with the blue tape. My new installation of the expensive FM-200 substitute from FireBoy is on the right. Both are rated at 75 cu. ft.
Photo also shows the port gas charged engine hatch strut. When the hatch closed, the under hatch insulation would just catch the strut popping it off occasionally. Now there's a 3/16" spacer under the mount on the lower right that cured the problem.
See following thread for full halon narrative: http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/halon-auto-fire-extinguisher-replaced.95932/
 
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I am looking at purchasing a 2005 200 Sport with the full bench seat and sundeck. It has the 4.3mpi with around 350 hours. The interior is immaculate and outside has normal dock rash but pretty good for 15 years old.

We typically boat with 4 adults and two kids is the 4.3mpi enough power for skiing, wakeboarding etc? I really like the layout of the boat with all the storage and integrated swim platform. The motor looks like new so hoping there wont be any issues. Buying it from a local boat dealer and they have all the maintenance for the boat which shows just the normal winterizing each year. Seems hours is about right at ~20 hours a year?

The dealer is going to clean it up as it had been sitting in their storage for a couple of months and was dirty and dusty. Once they get that done we are going back to look again and will get some more pics to post.

Its a little older than I wanted but the price and condition is what I am looking for so just looking for advice assurance :)
 
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I think you should hold out for 260 hp. 4.3 is almost the same weight as the 5.0 with a lot less horsepower.
The specs say 100#s and 40hp but I don't think they tell the full story. Boat has to plane before skier can plane. Heavy skier on a narrow ski could drink a lot of lake water.
 
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CNYBoater said:
After removing the hatch, check the coring for rot or wet between the fiberglass layers.
As for the cuddy headliner, you want a spray adhesive. Like 3M “headliner and fabric spray adhesive”
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I have the hatch out. There was some rot/wet coring between the fiberglass at some of the screw holes. I dug out the rot/wet coring, let the remaining coring dry, and then filled the void with epoxy.

I used headliner spray adhesive to reattach the headliner and it looks much better. I plan on putting the inside trim ring back on this weekend.

I have the glass out of the hatch frame and removed all of the old sealant using razor blades, Mr. Clean Magic Erasers, and acetone. I'm working on removing the old sealant from the hatch frame now. Once the frame is clean I'll rebed the glass into the frame using Dow Corning 795 adhesive sealant. After that I'll reinstall the hatch onto the boat using 3M 4000UV sealant.
 
Ted33 said:
CNY, I have been going around the boat with a screwdriver tightening things up and decided to remove the floor panel over the fuel tank. Mine says 29 gallons on the manufacturer's sticker.
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According to the spec sheet I saw the fuel tank is a 30 gallon tank with 29 gallons of usable fuel. It's not possible to get every last drop out of the tank since the fuel pickup does not go to the very bottom of the tank.
 
I rebedded the glass into the frame using the Dow Corning 795 adhesive sealant and the frame back into the boat using the 3M 4000 UV sealant. The screws for the hatch and trim ring are stainless steel #8 x 3/4 inches. I used copious amounts of sealant so I'm confident it won't leak. We'll find out in April!
 
My 1993 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter did not have cabin doors when I purchased it. I purchased cabin doors from a 1982 Sea Ray 260 off of Craigslist. Since the doors for the 260 were bigger than I needed I had to cut them down. I finished cutting the doors down to size.

Cabin Doors Cut To Size.JPG


My next step is to paint them before I install them on the boat.
 
I went with a "MaxxTow" brand lift-offset spare tire carrier that is tongue mounted fore of the winch mast from e-trailer.com. So far, no issues. For trailer tires I went with the heaviest rated 15" trailer tires available at the time, I don't recall the brand.
 
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