Wiring
- Thread starter jim vogt
- Start date
I'm not aware of one. About the best you'll do is the list that's in your manual (downloadable) - it should at least give you wire colors/descriptions. Although it's not a "diagram", it should suffice if you've got some experience with this stuff - it's actually a pretty good list.
Thanks, but I have not been able to find a manual either
Sure they do. I just looked and saw it. On SR's site... "owner's"... "owner's manuals". Then select from the drop down menu.
Thanks for your help, I found it. It's good to have but what I mainly need is a diagram that shows the wiring to the gauges. I need to disconnect them to restore the dash panels and I want to make sure I get reconnected properly just in case.
Oh, well that's a easy one! Like I mentioned, I really don't think you're going to find that - it was never even something that Sea Ray had. BUT... just take pictures as you go and label things yourself. Blue painter's tape on the wires -- make your own code -- write it down on paper -- and take pics before disassembly. That's actually easier than following a diagram, anyways.
Actually, the wiring is quite basic and easy to figure out as you go, anyways. But labelling/pics will make it a breeze.
There's any number of ways to do the labelling, but one idea: Use the tape on the wire and a small piece directly on the gauge's connector as you remove it. Make the first one you take off "A"... the second one "B"... etc. But still take pics of the backside of the gauge before you remove any wires - just in case the tape get's lost. You can also use a sharpie to write directly on the gauge, next to the connector.
Actually, the wiring is quite basic and easy to figure out as you go, anyways. But labelling/pics will make it a breeze.
There's any number of ways to do the labelling, but one idea: Use the tape on the wire and a small piece directly on the gauge's connector as you remove it. Make the first one you take off "A"... the second one "B"... etc. But still take pics of the backside of the gauge before you remove any wires - just in case the tape get's lost. You can also use a sharpie to write directly on the gauge, next to the connector.
Ike
Active Member
- Dec 17, 2011
- 460
- Boat Info
- 1972 Sea Ray SRV 190 I/O
12 Ft Rowboat
8 Foot Sailing Dinghy
- Engines
- Mercruiser 165 6cyl inline GM 250
I am going through the same process right now, trying to find out why my stern light doesn't work. The wiring needed overhauling anyway (it's a 1972) and has been added to and patched so many times it's a real rats nest. Adding to that I had an engine installed a year ago and a new O/B kicker a few months ago, just before everything shutdown.
So take you time. Take pictures, make diagrams. Note the color of the wire. Wire is supposed to be color coded, see https://newboatbuilders.com/pages/elect5.html Just looking at the color should tell you where it goes. Many times the back of an instrument has a letter or number next to the contact. write it down. Switches too often have letters or numbers next to the connector. Write them down, put it on the diagram. I put a 1 inch piece of white electrical tape around each wire and write on the tape what it goes to.
I've done the instruments and switches under the dash and installed a new wire bundle to the trim/tilt for the stern drive but i still haven't found the fault. Next I will start on the wiring around the engine and tilt mechanism. Somewhere I've lost a ground. Anyway, when I'm done I'll have a diagram of the wiring for the whole boat and know where everything goes. But be patient, take your time.
So take you time. Take pictures, make diagrams. Note the color of the wire. Wire is supposed to be color coded, see https://newboatbuilders.com/pages/elect5.html Just looking at the color should tell you where it goes. Many times the back of an instrument has a letter or number next to the contact. write it down. Switches too often have letters or numbers next to the connector. Write them down, put it on the diagram. I put a 1 inch piece of white electrical tape around each wire and write on the tape what it goes to.
I've done the instruments and switches under the dash and installed a new wire bundle to the trim/tilt for the stern drive but i still haven't found the fault. Next I will start on the wiring around the engine and tilt mechanism. Somewhere I've lost a ground. Anyway, when I'm done I'll have a diagram of the wiring for the whole boat and know where everything goes. But be patient, take your time.
Ike
Active Member
- Dec 17, 2011
- 460
- Boat Info
- 1972 Sea Ray SRV 190 I/O
12 Ft Rowboat
8 Foot Sailing Dinghy
- Engines
- Mercruiser 165 6cyl inline GM 250
Just an update. I finally got around to sorting out the electrical issues. I lost the negative connections on both the sternlight and the trim/tilt. I put in a Ground Buss Bar and connected it to the battery negative. I then ran wires from the buss to the sternlight and to the trim/tilt. Both now work fine. I think what happened is when the shop installed my new O/B and hooked up the wiring, they damaged the wiring harness. Originally the ground connections were (and many still are) at the back of the tach. But somewhere between the dash and the engine compartment there is a loss of the ground to those two items. So next years project, replace the wire harness. But now I can put it in the water and go fishing (but first I have to renew my fishing lic.)
mstang64bb
Member
- Jan 3, 2013
- 186
- Boat Info
- 1988 Sea Ray 268 Sundancer
- Engines
- 454 w/ bravo II drive
These may help get you in the right direction
Glad to hear you got figure out enough to get you on the water.
The shop could have damaged something inadvertently, but most likely, some of those connections (and others) where the wire enters the ring/spade connector were corroded and possibly only hanging on by a few threads. The normal jostling and moving of wires during work/maintenance may have been enough to send them over the edge. Given the age of the boat, this is probably the most logical explanation.
The shop could have damaged something inadvertently, but most likely, some of those connections (and others) where the wire enters the ring/spade connector were corroded and possibly only hanging on by a few threads. The normal jostling and moving of wires during work/maintenance may have been enough to send them over the edge. Given the age of the boat, this is probably the most logical explanation.
