Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Can you measure the voltage on the input side of the relay you swapped when the ignition is activated (also is there normally power there all the time, and if so, same question about voltage without ignition activated)? I know, seems irrelevant given you tried swapping relays...just a double-check and tracing back.

Is there another relay upstream of the harness and the one you swapped?
There are 2 relays near the fuse block mounted to top of engine, I did not check voltage there, but will.

I cannot make it back to boat until Fri., so maybe I’ll have multiple suggestion on trouble shooting by then. Thanks to you and thank you to techmitch both for quick replies
 
There are 2 relays near the fuse block mounted to top of engine, I did not check voltage there, but will.

I cannot make it back to boat until Fri., so maybe I’ll have multiple suggestion on trouble shooting by then. Thanks to you and thank you to techmitch both for quick replies

Yep, thoroughly inspect connections at relays. Sounds like you have a voltage drop issue somewhere.
 
They are nice, my sister had one...but I like your 280 better! :) The 2011 280DA is quite a bit smaller than your 280DA. They changed model numbering on these in 2010. In 2009 they built your version of the 280, and also a 270. In 2010, your version of the 280 was discontinued and the 270 was rebadged a 280.

Just like my 44DB used to be a 420DB (changed in 2006)...
I didn't know that, I thought it looked slightly smaller.
 
Yep, thoroughly inspect connections at relays. Sounds like you have a voltage drop issue somewhere.

OK guys, the relays tested fine off the connectors and there is 12.5v at connectors constant, the other terminals on relay connectors were zero until start switch was activated, then they read 12.4 on one connector & 11.3 -11.7 on the other.

There in no humming/noice on starboard engine when start switch is turned on, so no pumps (oil or fuel) are activating.
 
Hey all, does anyone know what the average temperature in the ER with twins runs? I am thinking about storing my fishing rods there but am concerned about the heat.

josh
 
My LCD display on my Lowrance 3500 Depth finder gauge isn't working very well anymore. Anyone know if there is a place that repairs them? Or where to find just a new or refurbished gauge?

Worse case, could I wire in a different one w/o having to replace my transducer? I just had the boat pulled so the transducer could be re-sealed as it was leaking. Then this happens. Never ends.

How easy is it to undo the wires behind the gauge so I could send it in (assuming there is a place that could repair it)?
 

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Josh. I mounted my fish finder, gps transducer in the engine room temporarily early last year. Was just placed in silicone between the twins on the floor. Ran it all summer like that. 1998 290 sundancer with twin 5.0 efi. Temp never got over 100 dagrees
 
Josh. I mounted my fish finder, gps transducer in the engine room temporarily early last year. Was just placed in silicone between the twins on the floor. Ran it all summer like that. 1998 290 sundancer with twin 5.0 efi. Temp never got over 100 dagrees
Thanks Jeff. That’s great to hear. I don’t think 100 degrees would hurt the rods/reels at all. It’s probably hotter than that in my truck after sitting in the sun all day.

Josh
 
My LCD display on my Lowrance 3500 Depth finder gauge isn't working very well anymore. Anyone know if there is a place that repairs them? Or where to find just a new or refurbished gauge?

Worse case, could I wire in a different one w/o having to replace my transducer? I just had the boat pulled so the transducer could be re-sealed as it was leaking. Then this happens. Never ends.

How easy is it to undo the wires behind the gauge so I could send it in (assuming there is a place that could repair it)?

Here’s the short version. The Lowrance 3500 has been obsolete for about ten years. The transducer frequency is no longer used by anyone. You can add an inside the hull transducer and run it to the helm very easily. I added a Raymarine unit to ours. It can sit below the trim pump and water heater on the sloping section. It “glues” to the hull with caulking and then you fill it with RV anti-freeze (aka the pink stuff). I’ll look for a picture of the one I installed in our 280 and if I have one will post later here.
 
Does anyone know the size or where I might be able to get the release pins for these socket joints for the rear Bimini? I just got the not last winter and am now putting it together and they are nowhere to be found on the boat. It’s a 2005 model.
 

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Darren, they're made by Taco Marine. Or replace them with the newer, "captive pin" style and never lose them again.
 
OK guys, the relays tested fine off the connectors and there is 12.5v at connectors constant, the other terminals on relay connectors were zero until start switch was activated, then they read 12.4 on one connector & 11.3 -11.7 on the other.

There in no humming/noice on starboard engine when start switch is turned on, so no pumps (oil or fuel) are activating.
Kevin, just curious if you found a solution to your problem yet?
 
It does. I know as I redid the same thing (resealing/reinstalling garboard plug) while the engine was out of the 280 for the transom assembly replacement. I’ve been looking through my photos of the engineless engine bay for one that shows it but no luck. I’ve got pictures of everything else...

There seems to be a few important questions. First, what are the consequences of the garboard not being tied to the bonding system? Does it indicate that an improper mechanical reinstallation of the garboard - screws instead of bolts? Is this significant enough to justify having marina/tech properly install bond wire?

Attached again....
 

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