Darrenfon
Member
- Aug 28, 2018
- 88
- Boat Info
- Acquired Oct 2019
2005 280 DA
Kohler 5kw
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L MPI Alphas
From where??
Ebay they were 35 bucks a pair. Plus a little shipping and they fit right on. An mine is an 89.
PeteL
Active Member
- Aug 2, 2010
- 245
- Boat Info
- 2003 280 DA
Twin 5.0
Bravo III
"Viva la Vida"
- Engines
- Twin 5.0, bravo 3 drives
I thought I had a problem with my panel when I could not operate my windlass. Hoping that was the case, I bought one, but it did not resolve my issue. So we installed separate switches for the windlass. I still have the panel that I purchased. The problem may be (as it was in my case) the EIM..but if you find yourself needing the panel let me know.
trdehmer
Member
Finally pulled the cover of the throttle housing last night. What is there in this assembly that I should adjust/lubricate? Anything else down by the engine I should lubricate or otherwise so shifting forward/reverse doesn't require so much force?
When I press the black button it seems to be just fine shifting and doesn't seem to take much force. So, I'm wondering if its something else? Hard to test when you can't shift without engine running.
Attachments
scoflaw
Well-Known Member
- Aug 10, 2011
- 6,395
- Boat Info
- 1999 Powerquest legend 260 sx 502 mag
2005 Baja 242 islander 496
- Engines
- 502 mpi Bravo 1
496 mag B1
Your lower shift cable needs replacement. It's a wear item, and don't last forever
trdehmer
Member
Pretty sure it was replaced within the last few years.
Josh28161
Active Member
I recall reading somewhere back in this thread about a set screw in the side that can adjust tension. It maybe one of the four holes on your side photo.
trdehmer
Member
Correct, that will be easy to do. However, I don't think that is the cause. I plan to mess with it today.
Disconnect the lower shift cable at the engine and operate the stick. That will point you the right direction.
If you don't already know this... never shift a Bravo drive if the engine isn't running as you can cause shifting damage/issues. Since you're disconnecting the lower cable, though, it's OK to do this.
I was hitting the REV limiter on those props, I just changed out to SOLAS 19p 4 blade Aluminum, man Im getting some good numbers with them. WOT at 4700 RPM, 38-40 MPH, and a great hole shot.
My sterndrives were replaced in March 2018 and the shift box was also replaced. I bought the boat like 15 days later and I find that they are stiff to the point of having to really work to accelerate. I have several Sea Rays on my dock and two of the guys have made comments about the shift box on the boat. I'm wondering if they can be adjusted to free them up a bit. Docking the boat I some times don't get it in neutral very easily and just turn the engine off to keep from pulling back out of the slip.
JimT
Well-Known Member
- Jul 7, 2009
- 1,910
- Boat Info
- 2010 330 Sundancer
- Engines
- T-350mags w/BIIIs & Axius, 5.0 kw Kohler
There are two adjustments screws inside the housing. One is on the inside of the shift lever at the base. You will need a shorty screw driver with a turn to get at it. One of the screws adjusts the lever tension. The other adjusts the detent. I don’t remember which one does which. It’s been many years since I played with it. You can only adjust so far.
rcflyyer1
Member
- Apr 8, 2019
- 36
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2002
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L V6 Mercruisers w/ Alpha One Drives
Finally was able to take my 280 out on a cruise after a long series of repairs. Everything went well except for a 2 beeps/min alarm that my mechanic (who was onboard at the time) said was either the gear lube bottles or the IAC. He increasingly believed it to be the IAC when we came in to dock and the starboard engine kept dying so I have an IAC on order coming tomorrow which I'll install.
New issue, had a little bit of water in the bilge after we came back. I had the AC running and suspected it to be that since the water level kept rising (to the point that the float switch turned on). Of course for some reason, both bilge pumps are not working. Tried the switch on the helm with no luck. Today, I popped them out (after draining/cleaning the bilge) and discovered one to be seized and the other to be full of oil. I'll replace them with new Rule 1100 pumps.
Did some searching on this thread and still have a few questions for the knowledgeable folks here. I know one pump is wired direct to the battery as the light on the helm came on even though all switches were off. How can I disconnect this from the battery so the wires are safe to work on? I believe I saw a wire going to the battery closest to the transom but just want to make sure it's the right one. Also, the new-design Rule 1100 calls for a 7.5A fuse compared to the 5A for the old version. Anyone know where/how this fuse is replaced?
As for now, the boat won't be put in the water until we have the bilge pumps in order.
The knowledge I've learned from CSR has been invaluable. Can't believe how well I'm beginning to know my boat.
Thanks
New issue, had a little bit of water in the bilge after we came back. I had the AC running and suspected it to be that since the water level kept rising (to the point that the float switch turned on). Of course for some reason, both bilge pumps are not working. Tried the switch on the helm with no luck. Today, I popped them out (after draining/cleaning the bilge) and discovered one to be seized and the other to be full of oil. I'll replace them with new Rule 1100 pumps.
Did some searching on this thread and still have a few questions for the knowledgeable folks here. I know one pump is wired direct to the battery as the light on the helm came on even though all switches were off. How can I disconnect this from the battery so the wires are safe to work on? I believe I saw a wire going to the battery closest to the transom but just want to make sure it's the right one. Also, the new-design Rule 1100 calls for a 7.5A fuse compared to the 5A for the old version. Anyone know where/how this fuse is replaced?
As for now, the boat won't be put in the water until we have the bilge pumps in order.
The knowledge I've learned from CSR has been invaluable. Can't believe how well I'm beginning to know my boat.
Thanks
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Thank you. We went down yesterday and played with the boat. The shift unit is a mercruiser quicksilver 3000 and it looks like it has a removable cover on the front. I am definitely gonna have to fool with it as I had one helluva time getting it back into the slip.
It never stops does it? We need to check our bilge pumps too. Got one working, but not sure about the direct wired one.
rcflyyer1
Member
- Apr 8, 2019
- 36
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2002
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L V6 Mercruisers w/ Alpha One Drives
I like to view it as an educational experience to keep my sanity
. Can't deny that I've learned so much.I'll post back with the results once I get the new ones in. The trickiest thing for me is that there are some connections with two wires going in to one side of the heat shrink butt connectors. I think that might cause water to get in between the wires so I will put liquid electrical tape all over to hopefully seal it up. Not to mention, the electrical tape that they wrapped the wires in leaves adhesive all over which I gotta clean up. I'll probably wrap the new wires with electrical tape to keep a "stock look" and to help organize things better. Either that or some heat shrink tubing.
I like to view it as an educational experience to keep my sanity
I'll post back with the results once I get the new ones in. The trickiest thing for me is that there are some connections with two wires going in to one side of the heat shrink butt connectors. I think that might cause water to get in between the wires so I will put liquid electrical tape all over to hopefully seal it up. Not to mention, the electrical tape that they wrapped the wires in leaves adhesive all over which I gotta clean up. I'll probably wrap the new wires with electrical tape to keep a "stock look" and to help organize things better. Either that or some heat shrink tubing.
rcflyyer1
Member
- Apr 8, 2019
- 36
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2002
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L V6 Mercruisers w/ Alpha One Drives
Good luck.
The one time in life that I'm glad to be on the shorter side. The knees however...
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A few years back we chartered a 48' Sea Ray with a single diesel in Grand Cayman. It did fine with a single, I would have never guessed they would have built one like that. But that got me fired up to get another boat.
