Boat stopped running

Beth Trusley

New Member
Jul 6, 2020
4
Boat Info
1988 Sundancer
Engines
5.7L MerCruiser
Was cruising along and just eased the throttle forward. All of a sudden the boat died. Tried to restart but when turn the key – nothing. No sound, no click – the gauges do not move when turn the key.
The blower, bilge pump and radio work. Both batteries have power.
I checked the oil and it is not low. has gas

Any suggestions? Thank you in advance
Beth
 
loose/corroded battery cable at motor
90A fuse link at starter(if equipped) blown
50A circuit breaker popped /loose wires
 
loose wire on ignition switch
 
Which make and model boat do you have?

There are so many things that could have triggered this.

If you are a DIY'er I'd break out the volt meter and start checking.

Do you have a start button or an actual ignition switch?
 
Its a 1988 Sea Ray 268 Sundancer. To replace the ignition switch - do I access the panel in the head? Or, do I replace it from the console? they gut that towed me mentioned ignition switch. Where would I check these items?
90A fuse link at starter(if equipped) blown
50A circuit breaker popped /loose wires
 
I do not have a button; just place where insert key, then turn and 99% of the time it starts.
 
anyone know of the part number for a new ignition switch? or, how many positions? I want to try and see if this is the issue.
 
I just noticed the screws on my terminals could get loose. You lost your starter too so it would be the red terminal that would be loose. Just jump from the red to the others to see if it is the switch. Starter, Acc, Ign &Acc.
Ignition switches are all similar. You could use one from the auto parts store but it probably won't last in the marine environment.
 
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Ignition switches are a dime a dozen just about anywhere. You just need to verify if you have a 3 spade or 4 spade - very easy to figure out once you remove it.

Try this... pull the switch and if still doesn't start, jump the switch. Red to purple, then use the yellow wire to start.
 
Beth - this same issue happened to us this weekend. The only thing we noticed is that the only thing we have power to is our trim. Our radio and pump do not have power. We have a SeaRay Sundeck 220. What fixed your solution?
Thank you!
 
Better to use Marine Grade replacement components. The switch should have a cover or shroud of some sort if the weather can get at it. Doesn't hurt to replace this vulnerable part regardless of whether you have a conclusive diagnosis.
 
Beth - this same issue happened to us this weekend. The only thing we noticed is that the only thing we have power to is our trim. Our radio and pump do not have power. We have a SeaRay Sundeck 220. What fixed your solution?
Thank you!

I had a very similar sounding problem the day I brought home my (new to me) 2005 240SD. Ran great, put her in the lift. Went to go back out four hours later and no power to anything except the power trim. Turned out to be a fuse on the starter that sits between the heavy cables that run from the battery switch to, essentially, everything else. (In working on this I discovered that power trim, radio memory, and the float switch for the bilge pump are wired directly to one of my two batteries).

In my boat I found that power follows this route to most everything:
1. Battery to switch
2. Switch to starter
3a. Through 90A fuse to 50A breaker (mine is under the dust shield on the intake)
3b. Alternator is also connected at same point.

My testing showed that while I did have power coming out of the batter switch, I did not have power at the 50A breaker.

The proper fix for this is to replace the 90A fuse at the starter.

I was too fat, old, and arthritic to get to the fuse on the starter so I redesigned the power to essentially abandon the 90A fuse. This comes with some risks, so I can't recommend it to you. But I did document it here
 
I also ditched the 90 amp fuse because of location, but added a 100 amp fuse at the alternator where it can be easily replaced.. All other systems are protected by the 50 amp breaker on the top of the motor.
 
I also ditched the 90 amp fuse because of location, but added a 100 amp fuse at the alternator where it can be easily replaced.. All other systems are protected by the 50 amp breaker on the top of the motor.

Same... my new b100A fuse is in slightly different location but likely functionally equivalent.
 
I also ditched the 90 amp fuse because of location, but added a 100 amp fuse at the alternator where it can be easily replaced.. All other systems are protected by the 50 amp breaker on the top of the motor.
+ @FLWestCoast

Guys, not a good idea to relocate that 100A fuse.
Circuit breakers and fuses (specifically large fuses) are to protect the wiring from catching fire.
Not there to protect the Alternator.

By moving it the wire from the starter to 50A breaker is unprotected. As is the wire to the alternator.
They now have full battery current available. If they chaff on anything, poof...

That fuse was added due to Mercruiser having issues with those two feeds not being protected.
 
+ @FLWestCoast

Guys, not a good idea to relocate that 100A fuse.
Circuit breakers and fuses (specifically large fuses) are to protect the wiring from catching fire.
Not there to protect the Alternator.

By moving it the wire from the starter to 50A breaker is unprotected. As is the wire to the alternator.
They now have full battery current available. If they chaff on anything, poof...

That fuse was added due to Mercruiser having issues with those two feeds not being protected.
What's the chance of those wires chaffing through ? Do you worry about the big red battery cable chaffing thru as well ?
If the 90 amp fuse blows your not getting home without assistance. I like my setup
 
What's the chance of those wires chaffing through ? Do you worry about the big red battery cable chaffing thru as well ?
If the 90 amp fuse blows your not getting home without assistance. I like my setup

Actually yes, Every one of my batteries has a Military battery terminal with a 300A MRBF...
IMG_0175 (Edited).JPG
IMG_0183 (Edited).JPG
 
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+ @FLWestCoast

Guys, not a good idea to relocate that 100A fuse.
Circuit breakers and fuses (specifically large fuses) are to protect the wiring from catching fire.
Not there to protect the Alternator.

By moving it the wire from the starter to 50A breaker is unprotected. As is the wire to the alternator.
They now have full battery current available. If they chaff on anything, poof...

That fuse was added due to Mercruiser having issues with those two feeds not being protected.

Thank you, please note that revision has the wire going to the 50A fuse protected by the newly installed 100A fuse. The connection at the starter through the 90A fuse is removed from the equation.

A short in the 50A feed while the alternator is running is not protected in either design, which I just realized and has me reconsidering my revision.
 

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