Official 280 Sundancer Thread

D.B. · Jul 13, 2020

Darrenfon said:
Has anyone found an exact fit replacement for the Norcold Fridge? Mine finally stopped working this week. The led on the thermostat knob lights up but zero movement from any fans or compressor regardless of power supplied.

Yes, we have it's the Norcold np751. It says that it's a direct hook up, but we had to make a 1/4 inch cut to make it fit. We also got a piece of copper grate to place alone the bottom.

Darrenfon · Jul 13, 2020

D.B. said:
Yes, we have it's the Norcold np751. It says that it's a direct hook up, but we had to make a 1/4 inch cut to make it fit. We also got a piece of copper grate to place alone the bottom.

If you had to make a cut then it wasn't really an exact fit replacement.

PeteL · Jul 13, 2020

Darrenfon said:
Pete, How did you make out with that Fridge? Did it fit? Also, how did you get it into the cabin. I'm not even sure I can get my old one out the door.

I can't remember, but I know it was a struggle. I think I may have taken the door off.

Darrenfon · Jul 13, 2020

PeteL said:
I can't remember, but I know it was a struggle. I think I may have taken the door off.

The cabin door or the fridge door? Did the replacement slide right in or did you need to cut the cabinet? Thanks for your help.

Henry Boyd · Jul 13, 2020

Darrenfon said:
If you had to make a cut then it wasn't really an exact fit replacement.

Not necessarily because of the way boats are built. Just try doing an R&R on your windlass motor and you'll realize it was bolted to the underside of the superstructure before being lowered and attached to the hull. A lot of stuff is installed with the hull being open and exposed that is then covered up when the top is put on. Do you really believe they installed the fridge in pieces? Hell no, it went in long before there was even the sink and cabinet around it.

D.B. · Jul 13, 2020

Well,

Henry Boyd said:
Not necessarily because of the way boats are built. Just try doing an R&R on your windlass motor and you'll realize it was bolted to the underside of the superstructure before being lowered and attached to the hull. A lot of stuff is installed with the hull being open and exposed that is then covered up when the top is put on. Do you really believe they installed the fridge in pieces? Hell no, it went in long before there was even the sink and cabinet around it.

we were able to slide it right out and it went through the cabin door. But we have the older 280 with the 10.5 beam. It was the height that didn’t fit going back. We lined it up a used a Dewalt jig saw against a two inch piece of flat bar to make a straight cut. Then put a piece of brass grate across the bottom so air would circulate. Been working like a top , 30• on the number 3 setting.

rcflyyer1 · Jul 13, 2020

Success! Had a 2 beeps/minute alarm, and replaced both engines' IAC valves. I used Sierra valves to keep things "marine grade". Only difference I see between those and the automotive IAC valves (which were replaced on my boat) is just a metal cylinder with a spring over it. Got rid of the beeps!

Unfortunately, the next problem has reared its ugly head. I ran the bilge blowers the entire time the boat was out and by the time we got back, I noticed a significant decrease in pitch. Turns out the fan is running pretty slowly now and barely ventilates the bilge. Fans were running nice and strong when we left. Battery was showing ~13.5V. Any ideas?

B4tn · Jul 14, 2020

We are upgrading from a 2000 210BR to a 2001 280DA. I did my research on surveyors and got one that I think will be thorough and the survey is the 22nd. This will be our first big boat purchase so I am both nervous about the purchase process as well as driving a 28 foot twin engine boat. Aside from what the surveyor looks at, I am making a list of things to check. Does anyone have any recommendations for things to look for that a surveyor may miss? Also, is the 2001 an oddball year? Lots of aftermarket parts for 2003 and up but I am having a hard time finding info and direct fit aftermarket stuff like canvas, flooring, etc for 2001. I am hoping its not like our 210. The 210 was manufactured in an Arizona plant that burned down so no one has templates.

Are any of the years identical in layout and style? For instance are 2000-2002 DA's all basically the same?

Lazy Daze · Jul 14, 2020

BFTN - 280DA's were all roughly the same from '01 to '09. Phoenix plant... is the 4th HIN "A"? If so, that's it. But, it's really not that big of a deal - a local canvas shop can make what you need. Some have had good luck ordering canvas from Great Lakes for a Phoenix plant boat - GL obviously can't guarantee anything, though, of course.

PeteL · Jul 14, 2020

Darrenfon said:
The cabin door or the fridge door? Did the replacement slide right in or did you need to cut the cabinet? Thanks for your help.

It was the fridge door if anything,. There was some minor cutting to make the replacement fit. Not too bad, I am sure I found it on the forum..I will keep looking.

DWABoat · Jul 16, 2020

B4tn said:
We are upgrading from a 2000 210BR to a 2001 280DA. I did my research on surveyors and got one that I think will be thorough and the survey is the 22nd. This will be our first big boat purchase so I am both nervous about the purchase process as well as driving a 28 foot twin engine boat. Aside from what the surveyor looks at, I am making a list of things to check. Does anyone have any recommendations for things to look for that a surveyor may miss? Also, is the 2001 an oddball year? Lots of aftermarket parts for 2003 and up but I am having a hard time finding info and direct fit aftermarket stuff like canvas, flooring, etc for 2001. I am hoping its not like our 210. The 210 was manufactured in an Arizona plant that burned down so no one has templates.

Are any of the years identical in layout and style? For instance are 2000-2002 DA's all basically the same?

I have an ‘01 280DA with twin 4.3’s and Alpha One drives.

What type of motors/drives/features does the one you are considering have?

Generator? Water heater? Vacuflush? Any upgrades?

Gord · Jul 16, 2020

B4tn said:
We are upgrading from a 2000 210BR to a 2001 280DA. I did my research on surveyors and got one that I think will be thorough and the survey is the 22nd. This will be our first big boat purchase so I am both nervous about the purchase process as well as driving a 28 foot twin engine boat. Aside from what the surveyor looks at, I am making a list of things to check. Does anyone have any recommendations for things to look for that a surveyor may miss? Also, is the 2001 an oddball year? Lots of aftermarket parts for 2003 and up but I am having a hard time finding info and direct fit aftermarket stuff like canvas, flooring, etc for 2001. I am hoping its not like our 210. The 210 was manufactured in an Arizona plant that burned down so no one has templates.

Are any of the years identical in layout and style? For instance are 2000-2002 DA's all basically the same?

We have a 2003 280 and we love it but I did find a few things after a survey and after we bought it. We bought our boat in Michigan but had been In saltwater before that. The steering pins were leaking water into the hull and it cost a lot to get it fixed. The first year it cost us a lot but now it has leveled off and we are enjoying our boat.
Good luck to you. You will get use to a 28 footer in no time

Henry Boyd · Jul 17, 2020

Lazy Daze said:
BFTN - 280DA's were all roughly the same from '01 to '09. Phoenix plant... is the 4th HIN "A"? If so, that's it. But, it's really not that big of a deal - a local canvas shop can make what you need. Some have had good luck ordering canvas from Great Lakes for a Phoenix plant boat - GL obviously can't guarantee anything, though, of course.

Our 280 was a Phoenix boat. Great Lakes was a complete pain in the butt, at first they wouldn’t even quote us upon finding out about the SERA prefix HIN. Finally we had a local canvas company order it. As it turned out it did need to be slightly modified. Apparently the frame layout wasn’t exact between plants, and even a half inch here or there, has an impact on fit.

Darrenfon · Jul 17, 2020

So, I finally got the new refrigerator in. I replaced the Norcold DE0051 with the supposed direct replacement the Norcold NR751BB. The cutout in the cabinet face was fine, the issue was the depth. The old unit had a 45 degree cut on the left rear edge, so that it would clear the rising V-Hull of the boat. The new unit is a complete rectangular box, so it would hit on the left rear edge. I was able to drill new holes in the front mounting bracket so that it would move the fridge 2 1/2 inches forward, allowing it to get in, but as a result it sticks out further. While not ideal, I'm happy, and now I have a real freezer space and a light when the door opens. I attached pictures of the space showing where it would hit the hull side on the left bottom, and the new fridge in place.

Edit, and as usual this forum rotates the image for some reason.

They call me Tim · Jul 17, 2020

Darrenfon said:
So, I finally got the new refrigerator in. I replaced the Norcold DE0051 with the supposed direct replacement the Norcold NR751BB. The cutout in the cabinet face was fine, the issue was the depth. The old unit had a 45 degree cut on the left rear edge, so that it would clear the rising V-Hull of the boat. The new unit is a complete rectangular box, so it would hit on the left rear edge. I was able to drill new holes in the front mounting bracket so that it would move the fridge 2 1/2 inches forward, allowing it to get in, but as a result it sticks out further. While not ideal, I'm happy, and now I have a real freezer space and a light when the door opens. I attached pictures of the space showing where it would hit the hull side on the left bottom, and the new fridge in place.

Edit, and as usual this forum rotates the image for some reason.

Even though it sticks out a bit, it looks really good. Nice work!

Darrenfon · Jul 17, 2020

They call me Tim said:
Even though it sticks out a bit, it looks really good. Nice work!

Thanks.

Lazy Daze · Jul 17, 2020

Henry Boyd said:
Our 280 was a Phoenix boat. Great Lakes was a complete pain in the butt, at first they wouldn’t even quote us upon finding out about the SERA prefix HIN. Finally we had a local canvas company order it. As it turned out it did need to be slightly modified. Apparently the frame layout wasn’t exact between plants, and even a half inch here or there, has an impact on fit.

I've read about a few who got GL canvas that fit nicely on their Phoenix boat. But I also tried to buy a cockpit cover from them for my (Phoenix) 260DA - wouldn't sell it to me. No big deal as I had a local guy do it. But, yeah, I think "modifications needed" would be more the norm. Like you said, Henry, all it takes is for the bimini mounts to be in a different spot by a small amount to mess things up.

They call me Tim · Jul 17, 2020

I just bought my 2011 280 Sundancer

and am learning a lot about this boat. One question I have involves the head. Is this called a vacuflush system? The little sticker on the left makes it look pretty easy, but what is the key and the panel on the right used for? Does this need to be turned on before using the head? Is that a button that needs to be pushed on the top left (the one that says head)? I just ordered marine toilet paper and the little packets you're supposed to drop in on occasion to make sure it doesn't smell.

D.B. · Jul 17, 2020

Darrenfon said:
So, I finally got the new refrigerator in. I replaced the Norcold DE0051 with the supposed direct replacement the Norcold NR751BB. The cutout in the cabinet face was fine, the issue was the depth. The old unit had a 45 degree cut on the left rear edge, so that it would clear the rising V-Hull of the boat. The new unit is a complete rectangular box, so it would hit on the left rear edge. I was able to drill new holes in the front mounting bracket so that it would move the fridge 2 1/2 inches forward, allowing it to get in, but as a result it sticks out further. While not ideal, I'm happy, and now I have a real freezer space and a light when the door opens. I attached pictures of the space showing where it would hit the hull side on the left bottom, and the new fridge in place.

Edit, and as usual this forum rotates the image for some reason.

Darrenfon · Jul 17, 2020

They call me Tim said:
View attachment 88569 View attachment 88570

I just bought my 2011 280 Sundancer

and am learning a lot about this boat. One question I have involves the head. Is this called a vacuflush system? The little sticker on the left makes it look pretty easy, but what is the key and the panel on the right used for? Does this need to be turned on before using the head? Is that a button that needs to be pushed on the top left (the one that says head)? I just ordered marine toilet paper and the little packets you're supposed to drop in on occasion to make sure it doesn't smell.

You’ll need to turn it to “on” to energize the vacuum pump. Don’t turn it to Discharge unless you’re in a legal dump zone and the seacock is open.

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