Official 400EC thread

TitanTn said:
That's perfect! I'm going to make something like this. Thanks for the pic.
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h_gerry said:
I came across a davit system that I really like. It is on a 400EC in a friend's marina. I have no details about it and do not know if it was custom made or who manufactured it if it is a production unit (it is similar in concept to the St. Croix davits I have seen). My friend who knows the owner of the 400EC said he can remove the davits when not in use to stow them. They use a block and tackle to raise and lower the dinghy. I don't believe the weight would be an issue, but I cannot see the underside to know what, if any, backing plates were used. (sorry picture is sideways)

I will try to get further information since I want this system on my boat.

View attachment 86787 View attachment 86787
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I have researched many davit systems for the 400EC and most will not work due to the configuration of the swim platform, fender storage. So, I am close to pulling the trigger on a new swim platform without the fender storage allowing for the installation of a Hurley davit system. Swim platform: $4,500, Installation, $1,500. A bit pricy, but need the dingy out of the water. I'll post pics once completed.
 
h_gerry said:
Weber carbs are what is typical on these motors.
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Might be?
They are the same as the 1995 stock models.
I followed the flyingfish guys instructions for exact replacement when building my engines (Gen 6) in 2013/14 and couldn’t be happier :)
 
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Sans Souci said:
I have researched many davit systems for the 400EC and most will not work due to the configuration of the swim platform, fender storage. So, I am close to pulling the trigger on a new swim platform without the fender storage allowing for the installation of a Hurley davit system. Swim platform: $4,500, Installation, $1,500. A bit pricy, but need the dingy out of the water. I'll post pics once completed.
Click to expand...

upload_2020-7-10_16-21-56.jpeg
 
I like being able to board with the dink. The straps are because I don’t trust the weight of the dink.

upload_2020-7-10_16-26-12.jpeg
 
I had a Weaver system on my 300 SD, and kept all of it when I sold the boat. I'm pretty sure it can adapt to the 400EC.




 
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I'm going to build my own davit system. It's roughly going to be similar to AirO's, but how to mounts to the swim platform will be a little different and it will also lift the dinghy slightly higher. Thanks for the pics, it's good to see the variety.

Sans Souci - yours sounds interesting and I look forward to seeing the outcome.
 
TitanTn said:
I'm going to build my own davit system. It's roughly going to be similar to AirO's, but how to mounts to the swim platform will be a little different and it will also lift the dinghy slightly higher. Thanks for the pics, it's good to see the variety.

Sans Souci - yours sounds interesting and I look forward to seeing the outcome.
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Definitely the higher the better...mine was existing when I bought the boat. I’ll modify it’s mount higher someday but, it does work for now.
 
ok 40ec guy any one know the part # for the trolley for the sliding hatch
 
Emie Boyer said:
ok 40ec guy any one know the part # for the trolley for the sliding hatch
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Yes but, your not going to like the answer........

You need to replace the entire track assembly because the newer “trucks” are larger that the old ones.
Fpmarine has rails and trucks avail to make the switch.

Thinking a 3D printer could possibly reproduce the original plastic ones but, that’s outside of my skill-set.
 
Want to replace the speakers behind the main couch in salon which means I need to remove the oval mirror section. It looks like one needs a stubby Phillips screwdriver to remove a few screws from inside the storage boxes above couch but I’m curious if more things need to be removed. I don’t want to get into a major teardown.
 
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Question for fellow 400EC owners, has anyone replaced the bow pulpet anchor rollers yet? Measured what was on my boat as 2.5"dia. and 4" wide rollers, 2ea. Have yet to find direct replacement, go figure... Anyone been down this path as of yet?


thanks
 
Good Morning, I'm having some trouble with my freshwater pump. Last week my freshwater system stopped working. determined that the pump was tripping the breaker. The pump was looking pretty rough so I pulled it and it seemed to be locked up so I ordered a new pump. Unfortunately the new pump seems to be doing the same thing. Here's what it does:
If I open a faucet it runs well then when I close the faucet I can see on the amp meter at the main panel that the amps start to climb within a few seconds and the breaker at the main panel trips. I can reset the breaker and everything is fine until I open a faucet, then the cycle repeats. Help!
 
Sounds like the pressure switch that turns off the pump when the system is pressurized is not working properly.
May want to check your accumulator tank as well ( I need to check mine as there doesn't seem to be much/any storage in it - the pump shuts off almost immediately after I close a sink valve. )
 
Olysan said:
Where would I find the accumulator tank?
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It is under the stove in the galley. Open the top drawer and reach in and push the bottom of the stove. You can lift it up and tilt it up. (it may take some pressure to release the tap or velcro that holds the stove in place)

I swapped out the original accumulator with a 2 Gallon accumulator tank. It cut down on the cycling of the pump.
 
Here is the accumulator I added. Don't have a picture of the installed product with me at work.

Accumulator Tank.jpg
 
Olysan said:
Good Morning, I'm having some trouble with my freshwater pump. Last week my freshwater system stopped working. determined that the pump was tripping the breaker. The pump was looking pretty rough so I pulled it and it seemed to be locked up so I ordered a new pump. Unfortunately the new pump seems to be doing the same thing. Here's what it does:
If I open a faucet it runs well then when I close the faucet I can see on the amp meter at the main panel that the amps start to climb within a few seconds and the breaker at the main panel trips. I can reset the breaker and everything is fine until I open a faucet, then the cycle repeats. Help!
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What is amp reading when the breaker trips? It is normal for the amp draw to climb some as pressure builds. If the the breaker is tripping at less than its rated capacity then the breaker may be bad and the pump is actually fine.
 
Accumulator tank - just a picture for reference.. As others stated, the stove lifts up to provide access.

This picture was taken when I replaced my refrigerator, which required removing the cabinet it was set in, given the new fridge was larger.
 

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Thanks for all of the great replies. I did find the accumulator. I also think I solved the problem and I feel pretty stupid because it had nothing to do with the pump. I was getting very low on water and the pump was pumping a bit then running out. Bonehead move of the week.
 
Air O'Nautical said:
Yes but, your not going to like the answer........

You need to replace the entire track assembly because the newer “trucks” are larger that the old ones.
Fpmarine has rails and trucks avail to make the switch.

Thinking a 3D printer could possibly reproduce the original plastic ones but, that’s outside of my skill-set.
Click to expand...
If someone has the measurements, I'm happy to put them in CAD and print them up for folks.
 
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