Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Just like ours.
Ours is the wide body and had plenty of room.
 
Lazy Daze said:
I've read about a few who got GL canvas that fit nicely on their Phoenix boat. But I also tried to buy a cockpit cover from them for my (Phoenix) 260DA - wouldn't sell it to me. No big deal as I had a local guy do it. But, yeah, I think "modifications needed" would be more the norm. Like you said, Henry, all it takes is for the bimini mounts to be in a different spot by a small amount to mess things up.
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I have an '02 280, Phoenix boat and used Great Lakes to replace most of the top and windows. They didn't guarantee but it all fit perfectly, no issues. Normal wear and tear issues but no problems with the boat. I only have one engine and have no problem driving it. You'll love it.
 
They call me Tim said:
View attachment 88569 View attachment 88570

I just bought my 2011 280 Sundancer
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and am learning a lot about this boat. One question I have involves the head. Is this called a vacuflush system? The little sticker on the left makes it look pretty easy, but what is the key and the panel on the right used for? Does this need to be turned on before using the head? Is that a button that needs to be pushed on the top left (the one that says head)? I just ordered marine toilet paper and the little packets you're supposed to drop in on occasion to make sure it doesn't smell.
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Just leave key in on position. Others are not buttons but fuses. I turn battery switch to off when I leave the boat which turns all DC off, so no need to ever turn key off.
 
Chicago Scott said:
Just leave key in on position. Others are not buttons but fuses. I turn battery switch to off when I leave the boat which turns all DC off, so no need to ever turn key off.
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Thanks, that's helpful
 
Anyone know the proper size of lettering for the name on the boat? I just want it to fit on the back hatch where we keep the bumpers and the shore power.
 
Kevin Wall said:
Anyone know the proper size of lettering for the name on the boat? I just want it to fit on the back hatch where we keep the bumpers and the shore power.
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There is no "proper" sizing, per se. Measure the area you have and give that to sign company that's making your lettering/name. Based on number of letters in your name and the font style, they'll size it appropriately and send you a digital copy - and then you can fine tune it.
 
Kevin Wall said:
Anyone know the proper size of lettering for the name on the boat? I just want it to fit on the back hatch where we keep the bumpers and the shore power.
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If you have a documented vessel then yes. Minimum of 4” I believe. If it is state registered and you just want to put a name on the back then it does not matter.
 
Believe it or not, anything 25 feet or over is long enough to be considered for a documented vessel.

On another note, does anyone know what the factory, or recommended length of the anchor rode should be? Mine is getting worn and not feeding through the windlass properly.
 
Josh28161 said:
On another note, does anyone know what the factory, or recommended length of the anchor rode should be? Mine is getting worn and not feeding through the windlass properly.
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Usually not long enough... ;)

Probably something like 15' or 20' of chain and about 100' of rope. I'd suggest doubling the rope amount. But, you may be fine with cleaning the rope. It gets dirty, salted up and stiff over time. It's worthwhile to at least try cleaning it, first. Put it all in a big bucket with some laundry soap... soak it for a while and then agitate real good. Rinse it well, then soak it again with some fabric softener.
 
Does anyone know if the generator can be removed from the boat while the engines are in place? 2003 280 5.0s
 
Josh28161 said:
Believe it or not, anything 25 feet or over is long enough to be considered for a documented vessel.

On another note, does anyone know what the factory, or recommended length of the anchor rode should be? Mine is getting worn and not feeding through the windlass properly.
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Your rope might not be worn, the spring on the pressure finger may be weak and is replaceable.
 
Hi guys! I have a 2005 280 DA with Raymarine c80. Does anyone know Do the instrument gauges and Raymarine unit obtain depth from the same transducer? Thanks in advance!
 
Well, this is what I get for not knocking on wood... Replaced both IACs and felt like a million bucks when I took the boat out with no alarms. Took the boat out today and the first 20 mins went well. Then while in a minimum wake, BEEP BEEP. Decided to turn around and head back. Was really hoping to be one of the many cases of IACs solving this issue.

I replaced both IACs, went cruising for 2 hours without a peep from the alarm, then today all of a sudden it comes back. Engines had no idle issues whatsoever and ran well.

Next week, I'm having a mechanic scan the engine for faults. From the tone of the beeps, I believe it's coming from the port side. The beep when the ignition is turned on is slightly different for each engine (lower pitch on starboard).

Also looking at a future install of vessel view mobile. Would definitely help with the diagnosing. Will keep updating to hopefully help someone else.
 
Hello everyone, we got hung up on a sand bar recently, then the next day after some rain(we always get water in the bilge after it rains)it was an oily mess in there, both reservoirs for the drives were a little low. Do the drives somehow release fluid if they are bumped when getting hung up? Boat has been running fine, drive fluid is holding at the proper level after topping off.
Thanks!
 
Our stock VHF transmits but doesn't receive. Does anyone know something I should look for as the typical issue here? Or is this common being its 12yrs old and time to replace?
Thanks!
 
The Unicorn said:
Hello everyone, we got hung up on a sand bar recently, then the next day after some rain(we always get water in the bilge after it rains)it was an oily mess in there, both reservoirs for the drives were a little low. Do the drives somehow release fluid if they are bumped when getting hung up? Boat has been running fine, drive fluid is holding at the proper level after topping off.
Thanks!
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I doubt it had anything to do with sandbar but if your reservoirs were low you probably have a leak in bottle or line somewhere. Both are very common. Keep you eye on levels because I had one go dry and it cost me $6K to rebuild the drive.
 
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