Official 370 Express Cruiser Thread (1997-2000)

I had mine done on my 97 330EC this spring. The bearing were seized in the struts. Struts had to be removed and taken to a local press shop. Heat and a BIG press was needed to get them out.

Big improvement in running (no vibrations) - big decline in my bank account.

I do most of my maintenance/repairs on the boat, but felt this one was out of my league.

Hopefully, yours come out easier.
 
I had mine done on my 97 330EC this spring. The bearing were seized in the struts. Struts had to be removed and taken to a local press shop. Heat and a BIG press was needed to get them out.

Big improvement in running (no vibrations) - big decline in my bank account.

I do most of my maintenance/repairs on the boat, but felt this one was out of my league.

Hopefully, yours come out easier.
YIKES! I really hope that isn't the case, I'm not sure if mine have ever been replaced, I assume so, just couldn't find in the PO's maintenance records indicating it.

Did you attempt to do it and found them seized, or did you have your shop doing it and they found it? Did you (or your yard) try using the StrutPro tool and weren't able to get it out? I'm just trying to gauge what my success (or failure) rate is looking like and if I should just find a mechanic to do it...

Thanks,
Kevin
 
I didn’t have the tool get them out of strut or the time (was real busy with Covid stuff at work).

Mechanic attempted to press them out at the boat. When this failed they took the struts back to their shop and tried with their shop press. They were really froze, so they had to be taken to a special press shop.

I’ve had boat for 3 years in fresh water, but it originally came from salt. They may have been originals?
 
I recalled several conversations on this site about calling Sea Ray with your HIN and asking them to look up parts. I found an old thread that had their phone number listed and called them, within 5 minutes I had the original manufacturers info, along with the exact size of the bearings. Impressive!

For those interested, apparently the diesels do indeed have the larger shafts, as mine are 1.75". Interestingly, the surveyor was correct and my manual was not. The bearings are from Algonac Marine and are the "Grouper" family (he said each size bearing was given the name of a fish - Grouper, Flounder, etc). The bearing dimensions are 1.75" x 2-3/8" x 7". This info will go right into my maintenance manual, in case I need it in the future!

Kevin
 
I did both my strut bearings about 8yrs ago with the help of a fellow CSR member. He had the StrutPro tool and the right sized parts for my 1.5" shafts. The tool is well suited for the job and once the first "crack" is done to break the bearing free (that was the most stressful part which involved plenty of torque with a long bar) it was rather easy to push the remaining part of the bearing out of the strut. Installing the new bearing was even easier. Fortunately for me, the thing I worried about the most was not an issue - removing the set screws before using the StrutPro. They came out relatively easily but I did hit them with penetrating oil days before the procedure.

Usually diesel's utilize larger shafts/props than gassers so I'd be surprised if yours would be 1.5" - probably 2.0".

Best of luck with this project!
 
Wanted to give an update on this. I was able to get both bearings changed on Monday, with very few issues. I did use the StrutPro tool, they were very good to work with. I initially ordered the wrong kit, based of what I read in the manual, when I found out the correct size of the bearings I needed, a quick email to them and they shipped me the correct collets and horseshoe brackets, at no charge other than shipping them back the wrong ones.

The actual work went fairly smoothly, though I didn't have a prop nut wrench big enough, fortunately the marine shop at the boatyard I was at generously lent me one to use. I also found that the bearings were 7" long, but the shafts were about an extra 1/2" so the StrutPro didn't press the old bearings out completely. I had to borrow a big pipe wrench and twist it that last bit out. I'm going to contact StrutPro about that to let them know that they may want to consider modifying their tool to account for that.

Someone earlier commented about the "gunshot" when the prop finally lets go, and that is no joke. It nearly scared the crap out of me, thank goodness I was somewhat prepared for it. Removing the bearing also had a bunch of pops along the way as the old bearing was pressed out. For the install of the new ones, I followed the recommendation of getting the new bearings really cold (I popped them in the ice maker for about an hour before I needed them), plus used dish soap. They pressed right in with no issues.

The biggest issue for me was finding and backing out the set screw. I was able to find them and back them out enough to remove the bearings, but they were definitely not easy either getting them out or back in, even with liberal use of penetrating oil. I think I may have rounded off the head on 2 of them, so the next time I do this it may require me to drill them out, tap the threads and get new screws. Hopefully the lifespan of 5-10 years is correct and I won't need to do this anytime soon. I showed the old ones to the mechanic from the marine shop that gave me a hand, he does most of their cutlass bearing work, and said they were definitely past time for replacement. One certainly looked a lot worse than the other.

I'm happy this work is behind me, but it wasn't all that difficult to do. If anyone needs advice or guidance when doing the same, feel free to reach out to me, I'm happy to help.

Kevin
 
I have a question about the fish box on the '97 370 EC. I don't think the box has ever been used/filled and from time to time I like to remove the box to inspect below. It's a pain with the hose attached so I'm wondering if I can just leave the hose disconnected from the box? Does the discharge pump (which still works) prevent water from backing up into the box/boat? I would close the seacock but it is stuck as I don't believe
it has ever been closed.
Thanks
IMG_1108.JPG
IMG_1109.JPG
 
Are you askin about the big box or the little box?
 
Mine are both disconnected and plugged as I only use them for storage.
 
Mine are both disconnected and plugged as I only use them for storage.
K. I've been using the big one for storage as well. I've closed the seacock so I'm thinking there's no way that sea water can back up into the boat with the hose disconnected from the big fish box. Correct?
 
Correct. I still plugged the hose
 
My big one is plugged and used to store downriggers and other fishing equip. That drain plug holds very well.
If I disconnected the hose, I would also put an end cap on it, to be conservatively redundant.
 
Today was haul out day... finally after rescheduling twice due to named storms.
Hull wrap getting done this week along with prop speed and a couple other maint items. Will post pics when done.
20200824_092841.jpg
 
Looks familiar, just did that about a month ago. Replaced my Cutless bearings and anodes, touched up bottom paint and then buffed and waxed below the rub rail.
20200721_155407.jpg

20200721_155142.jpg
20200721_153055.jpg
 
Looking good Kevin. Read about the cutless job, sounds fun so maybe next time for me as I don't see a record of it in my my books.
My current dilemma is the name placement. The wrap guys are printing it onto the transom portion. I see how you have yours offset to avoid the door and grab bar. New name will be 2 words, "Perfect Viz", which same as many have will get covered when the door is open. I have until tmw to make a decision.
Side question, do you (or anyone else) know what anode do you have on there, I need to place an order and forgot to measure. It looks like the B-12 pictured here.
https://www.boatzincs.com/hull_bolt-on.html
Thanks,
Vince
 
Looking good Kevin. Read about the cutless job, sounds fun so maybe next time for me as I don't see a record of it in my my books.
My current dilemma is the name placement. The wrap guys are printing it onto the transom portion. I see how you have yours offset to avoid the door and grab bar. New name will be 2 words, "Perfect Viz", which same as many have will get covered when the door is open. I have until tmw to make a decision.
Side question, do you (or anyone else) know what anode do you have on there, I need to place an order and forgot to measure. It looks like the B-12 pictured here.
https://www.boatzincs.com/hull_bolt-on.html
Thanks,
Vince
The Cutless change wasn't too bad, hit me up if you do it, I can give you some tips for it.

That's the correct anode for the transom bonding plate. It's a 5" center to center plate, just make sure you get the correct metal based on your environment. I'm in fresh water so got aluminum.

For the name, I did offset it to avoid the door and handle. The previous owner had their name on the same side, with an image over by the door. I followed that same approach, minus the image. I didn't want to have to cut the vinyl to get it around the handle, and there was plenty of space to accommodate it. Gotta love the 14' beam!

BearlyOursName.JPG
 
Our boat name, Emerald Eyes, is entirely right of the handle.
I like the idea of an image on the left side. I’ll havta think about that.
 

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