Just got a 2004 200 sundeck this summer and going to winterize myself. Just trying to figure out the best way to hook up a remote fuel tank to run the winterizing cocktail through the motor. There is a hose that comes from the top of my fuel tank and runs to the electric fuel switch, from there it goes to the fuel separator/filter. After that not sure where it goes. Where should I separate the fuel lines to connect to the remote fuel tank? Do I need to cap off whatever hose comes from the gas tank? Will separating the fuel lines introduce air into the lines that needs to be bled back out in the spring? Not sure if there’s a fuel pump somewhere. Engine is a 5.0 MPI. Alpha outdrive.
Remote fuel tank hookup
- Thread starter snoop168
- Start date
Express 390
Well-Known Member
- Sep 14, 2018
- 661
- Boat Info
- 1986 SeaRay 390 EC
1993 SeaRay 290 DA single 7.4 /Bravo 2
1992 SeaRay 230 DA 4.3LX Alfa drive
- Engines
- Twin 454 Crusaders inboards 4 blades
Why do you want to disconnect the fuel tank?
blaster
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2011
- 3,464
- Boat Info
- 2010 sea ray 205 sport
F-250 CCLB 6.2 4x4 3.73 rear.
- Engines
- Mercruiser 4.3 mpi alpha 1.62
You can add the 2 stroke mix to the fuel filter when you change it out.
Islandtime04
Member
- Dec 10, 2017
- 79
- Boat Info
- 2004 420 Sedan Bridge
GHS Lift
11' Walker Bay 30hp
Garmin 7612 (duel)
- Engines
- Cummins 8.3 480CE's
Snoop, Welcome to boating and the Club. I love your music..haha.
Lots to learn, but this is a good place to ask.
There is a sequence to engine winterization and the details are too much for this thread. Here are the basics for a gas system and the order I would perform them in:
- Winterize ENTIRE fuel system (i.e. fuel in the tank and in the engine); this entails nothing more than adding the proper amount of "sta-bil" fuel stabilizer at your next fill up. The timing of that is important, as you want enough run time to ensure it runs through the entire system before winter lay-up.
- Change fuel filters and topping off filters with pre-stabilized fuel.
- Change oil and all filters, inc. trans/lower unit.
- Winterize engine using the proper anti-freeze products. See:
- There are probably a dozen opinions on how this step is done and by engine type. I have a sea strainer jig I made that replaces my strainer cap with a petcock and hose fitting. I hook a hose and 5gal bucket with proper antifreeze up to and run the engine until it's empty. It's slick. There are also products on the market that make this step easier. This is the last step and the engine can not be run after you complete this step. So think ahead.
- There are several other things that need to be checked or done for winterization that I don't mentioned; lube linkages, air filters, rotors, bilge cleaning, caps, various inspections (wiring, hoses, belts, etc.). A lot online and in books that you can research over the long hard winter while dreaming of an early Spring. Good luck.
Lots to learn, but this is a good place to ask.
There is a sequence to engine winterization and the details are too much for this thread. Here are the basics for a gas system and the order I would perform them in:
- Winterize ENTIRE fuel system (i.e. fuel in the tank and in the engine); this entails nothing more than adding the proper amount of "sta-bil" fuel stabilizer at your next fill up. The timing of that is important, as you want enough run time to ensure it runs through the entire system before winter lay-up.
- Change fuel filters and topping off filters with pre-stabilized fuel.
- Change oil and all filters, inc. trans/lower unit.
- Winterize engine using the proper anti-freeze products. See:
- There are several other things that need to be checked or done for winterization that I don't mentioned; lube linkages, air filters, rotors, bilge cleaning, caps, various inspections (wiring, hoses, belts, etc.). A lot online and in books that you can research over the long hard winter while dreaming of an early Spring. Good luck.
To run the winterizing mixture from a remote fuel tank.
Blaster, if I do it this way do I just fill the fuel filter up with the 2 cycle oil? I believe the manual says to run for a certain amount of time... how can I be sure that I don’t use up all the oil in the filter and then end up running straight gas again?
Islandtime04 thanks for the tips. Any idea on the best way to hook a remote fuel tank to the boat I have though? Again, I have injectors so it’s not recommended to fog the engine, rather run it on the mix of 2 cycle oil and fuel for a certain amount of time and they suggest to do this from a remote fuel tank so You get the proportions right and don’t have to mix a full tank worth.
blaster
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2011
- 3,464
- Boat Info
- 2010 sea ray 205 sport
F-250 CCLB 6.2 4x4 3.73 rear.
- Engines
- Mercruiser 4.3 mpi alpha 1.62
Don’t just pour 2 stroke oil in the fuel filter. You use a mix of gas and stabilizer. Reference this thread.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/fog-it-or-add-oil-to-fuel-water-seperator.5694/
