B3 screw up today

boatman37

Well-Known Member
Jun 6, 2015
4,211
pittsburgh
Boat Info
2006 Crownline 250CR. 5.7 Merc BIII
Previous: 1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer. 260 Merc Alpha 1 Gen 1
Engines
5.7 Merc BIII
So have a 2006 Bravo 3. Loaded the boat on the trailer and had a little throttle to keep it tight against the stop while the marina owner cranked the winch tight. So he yells we are good and can shut it off. Well forgot to put it in neutral first. Didn't realize it until I was packing everything away for the ride home. I did get it back to neutral with the engine off. I know this is a no-no but not sure what my other options were? I have done this before with this boat when I was having carb issues and it would stall. What is the risk here?
 
Bent shift linkage. I totally removed the neutral saftey switch so I can start it in gear, cause shit does happen as you know
 
Well I still have to start it on the muffs to winterize it so I should know then if the linkage bent?

BTW-I'm pulling the drive for the winter anyway cause I think I need a new cone clutch. Or could me have doing this in the past be causing the same symptoms of a slipping cone clutch? Only does it in forward. Just hesitates for a few seconds then goes.
 
I had the same issue early in the season and now it magically stopped. Are you going to replace it yourself Boatman? If you are, I’d be interested in the process and where you picked up the parts. I was considering doing this. The shop basically wants to charge almost what would cost for a new top end.
 
Not sure if I will do it myself or not. I'm thinking about trying it but will see. Haven't really researched it much yet
 
Did you use Merc High Performance lower unit oil on the last change? Substitute oils have caused the delay into gear.
 
Did you use Merc High Performance lower unit oil on the last change? Substitute oils have caused the delay into gear.
No I didn't. I have always used the Merc stuff but last year the local shop only had the Sierra brand and said it worked fine. I was hesitant but figured they must use it. That thought had crossed my mind though. But it was fine the first few times out with it. I was wondering if the cheaper oil may have led to the clutch slipping? Do you think just replacing the oil with the good stuff may fix it or too late?
 
Not sure. Dockmate used the wrong oil a few years ago, started delayed shift. Pulled it and refilled with correct lube, problem went away. Could be coincidental.
 
Not sure if I will do it myself or not. I'm thinking about trying it but will see. Haven't really researched it much yet
There are some YouTube videos and it looks pretty straight forward. However I can't seem to find a "kit", because if I'm going to replace the clutch I might as well do all of the seals. Also, I'm confused about lining up the universal shaft gears to the other two gears where the clutch is. Supposedly there's some marks that all need to be lined up, but I can't find any info on it.
 
If you didn’t use the proper spec oil and it started slipping after that then I would start there. I know when you do a limited slip rear on many vehicles a friction modifier is required in the oil.
 
If you didn’t use the proper spec oil and it started slipping after that then I would start there. I know when you do a limited slip rear on many vehicles a friction modifier is required in the oil.
It was the proper 'type' just a cheaper brand. And I'm usually adamant about using good brands but it was all they had there
 
Check the exact spec on the oil. Same viscosity doesn’t make it the same spec.

I went through this with bikes and quads as a kid. 10w40 is not all the same.

maybe the oil is fine but why not change it out with Merc high performance gear oil? Can’t hurt anything. Might cost a little bit more but not much.
 
Check the exact spec on the oil. Same viscosity doesn’t make it the same spec.

I went through this with bikes and quads as a kid. 10w40 is not all the same.

maybe the oil is fine but why not change it out with Merc high performance gear oil? Can’t hurt anything. Might cost a little bit more but not much.
i am definitely changing it anyway. just pulled the boat and brought it home the other day and i always change it as part of winterizing every year. and will be sure to use the Merc/Quiksilver stuff this time

EDIT: here is what i used. Shop told me it was what i needed




 
Last edited:
I dunno. I wouldn’t use that stuff in a bravo drive. An outboard or maybe alpha but I’d use the mercury high performance lube for the extra $2 a quart.
 
hmmm. Will try changing it. For the record it wasn't about saving money. I would gladly pay more for better quality. It was a matter of that was all they had and I needed it that day. Lesson learned...lol
 
Just changed the outdrive oil and put the Quicksilver High Performance stuff in it this time. The old stuff looked good. No water or metallics visible. Will see how it is next year then make a decision on the cone clutch.
 

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