Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

KevinC said:
If you have the XMD-4 there is only one set of AUX-IN plugs so if you have some in the cabinet and they work then a previous owner must have extended them for access. This would be enable when you select "AUX" for input.

If you want to add bluetooth using something like the Fusion BT-100 then you will need to attach to the RCA inputs at the back of the head unit and power the BT adapter from a 12V source that is easily available. I wired to the switched side of my stereo breaker and the ground block.

-Kevin
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I'm going out tomorrow to give a little more time to this project. For me, (currently) if it's not plug and play I struggle, honestly speaking. But I am learning. :)
 
Another question from a really raw rookie,
Inside the transom "trunk" there are several things as you all know...one of them is a quick connect fitting that appears to be dripping. Nothing connected to it. It is just below the water spigot. What is that and why might it be dripping? (Details, we had just returned from a short cruise on the lake).
 
LClifton said:
Another question from a really raw rookie,
Inside the transom "trunk" there are several things as you all know...one of them is a quick connect fitting that appears to be dripping. Nothing connected to it. It is just below the water spigot. What is that and why might it be dripping? (Details, we had just returned from a short cruise on the lake).
Click to expand...
That is where you connect the water hose from the dock to supply fresh water to the boat. Once connected and water from dock turned on your should have fresh water throughout the boat while your freshwater pump is turned off. The 12v freshwater pump switch is in the upper 12v section of the breaker panel. I bet the dripping is just water in the line and nothing to worry about. We run off dock water while in the slip and switch over to the freshwater tank while on the lake. Switching over is simply turning on the freshwater pump.
 
WARNING TO ALL! CHECK YOUR ENGINE VENT COVERS! While washing the boat sat morning and working the scrub brush around under the engine vent opening the dam thing lifted right off. First I noticed it pivoted up a bit then I grabbed it with both hands and came right off. Its weight was the only thing keeping it on. Thanks goodness I discovered this before it ended up on the bottom of the lake. A tube of 5200 later problem solved. Have read these are a nightmare to find aftermarket. I would give yours a good stress test and if they at all loose pull them and 5200 them back on.
Engine Vent Cover1.jpg
Engine Vent Cover2.jpg
Engine Vent Cover3.jpg
 
Tacoma290 said:
Korkie, I think you are right, the more I look at the schematic. I need to re-think this. This does not make my day.
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I wanted to close the loop on my post. I had a chance to drain the coolant again this weekend. It does not appear to be oil; It appears that the Dexcool was breaking down. I don't know when/if the previous owner had changed it. I wound up flushing the cooling system on that engine with fresh water 4 times before it ran clear, then put in new coolant.

The other engine's coolant was also starting to degrade but was in better shape. It only needed 2 flushes to run clear. Then I put in new.

I had read some concerning stories of 496 owners that had issues with Dexcool. Some of the 496s suffered coolant degrade (wait too long and the black specks build up and can't be cleaned from the engine), or even worse completely went to sludge because they mixed in the wrong coolant (don't mix green with the orange!).

Powerful lesson here. The previous Owner was emphatic about the maintenance done, and the more I learn, the more I realize that I won't be happy until I have all the systems baselined myself.
 
First, thanks to everyone for all the help. Here's my latest. We're in Arizona and it's OK for the gray water to go overboard. The problem is the boat is plumbed to have both sinks, and shower go to the holding tank. This obviously causes a problem because after just two (number ones) and a few dishes being washed etc...the small holding tank fills up.

Any advice on how to plumb all the sinks (cockpit and cabin) and the shower to allow gray water to go overboard? Please.
 
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LClifton said:
First, thanks to everyone for all the help. Here's my latest. We're in Arizona and it's OK for the gray water to go overboard. The problem is the boat is plumbed to have both sinks, and shower go to the holding tank. This obviously causes a problem because after just two (number ones) and a few dishes being washed etc...the small holding tank fills up.

Any advice on how to plumb all the sinks (galley and cabin) and the shower to allow gray water to go overboard? Please.
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The sinks and shower should be plumbed to go overboard from factory
Mine is
 
You will need to put in thru hulls and move the drains to them. Never heard of a SR plumbed this way. My BIL had a Chaparral we had to re-plumb due to it being as yours as it was originally a lake boat. Our 2006 has all 3 sinks plumbed to thru hulls, the shower and ac condensation drain to the sump pump under the cabin floor and it pumps overboard via a thru hull as well. Be sure to seal up your lines going into the tank really well to avoid stinky's.
 
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Hi guys, im a pretty handy person when it comes to basic preventative maintenance and what not but this has me stumped. Last weekend the idler pulley on my starboard 8.1s froze and subsequently failed causing me to limp in on one motor. I purchased all new pulleys and installed the new ones on the motor. I know the alternator is the key to the belt tension so the question is after I loosen up the tensioner bolt and the top bolt how is the alternator supposed to move to get the belt in the grooves? Im used to working with a tensioner on a 5.7 mag but this is a different animal.
 
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Jeremygavin said:
I hardly ever use my canvas and side curtains. I always use my cockpit cover. I lay the side curtains out on the cabin floor sstarting with the biggest one first. Between each curtain I put a towel that I bought cheap from Walmart. This keeps the glass from scratching. I then put each piece of glass on top of he next and then roll the whole thing up and it will fit in the bag. This way, there won't be too many folds in the plastic windows. I then put the bag in the hanging locker to the right of the front berth. We don't use it for hanging so it is a good use of space for us.
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excellent idea!
 
Matt1261 said:
Hi guys, im a pretty handy person when it comes to basic preventative maintenance and what not but this has me stumped. Last weekend the idler pulley on my starboard 8.1s froze and subsequently failed causing me to limp in on one motor. I purchased all new pulleys and installed the new ones on the motor. I know the alternator is the key to the belt tension so the question is after I loosen up the tensioner bolt and the top bolt how is the alternator supposed to move to get the belt in the grooves? Im used to working with a tensioner on a 5.7 mag but this is a different animal.
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Once you back off the tensioner bold the alternator should swing down releasing pressure on the belt. If not hit it with some penetrating oil. Even with that you still may need to tug on the belt to get it off depending on how stretched it is. When I recently put my new belt on I had to really pry it onto the pully before tensioning.

While in there take note of the alternator pivot bolt. When I did my alternators this year the bolt was locked inside the bracket tube. Keep an eye on that area for any dripping from the heat exchanger above.

-Kevin
 
Can anybody tell me the size of the packing gland of rudders ?
I'm not sure if it differs from US versions and gas powered ones as my boat is 2007 built and for European market and powered by diesel engines.
TIA.
 
KevinC said:
Once you back off the tensioner bold the alternator should swing down releasing pressure on the belt. If not hit it with some penetrating oil. Even with that you still may need to tug on the belt to get it off depending on how stretched it is. When I recently put my new belt on I had to really pry it onto the pully before tensioning.

While in there take note of the alternator pivot bolt. When I did my alternators this year the bolt was locked inside the bracket tube. Keep an eye on that area for any dripping from the heat exchanger above.

-Kevin
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I noticed that pivot bolt would not slide out which in turn is going to make it even more fun when I may have to swap out those alternators. Ive hit them with pb blaster.
 
Matt1261 said:
I noticed that pivot bolt would not slide out which in turn is going to make it even more fun when I may have to swap out those alternators. Ive hit them with pb blaster.
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Before doing your alternators make sure the pivot bolt slides out. If not order a new bracket in advance - I lost a month this summer waiting on the brackets. Brackets can easily be removed with two bolts.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
Before doing your alternators make sure the pivot bolt slides out. If not order a new bracket in advance - I lost a month this summer waiting on the brackets. Brackets can easily be removed with two bolts.

-Kevin
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Thank you for the heads up. That will save time for sure! Heres to hoping next boating season has a few less restrictions than this year!
 
I like to take my Raymarine c80 out of my 07 340 and I just replace it with a complete wood grain plate
Does anyone know where I could find one of these ?
Or does anyone know of a good cheap ish c80 replacement
Currently using iPad Pro with navionics and it works great
 
DrPringle said:
I like to take my Raymarine c80 out of my 07 340 and I just replace it with a complete wood grain plate
Does anyone know where I could find one of these ?
Or does anyone know of a good cheap ish c80 replacement
Currently using iPad Pro with navionics and it works great
Click to expand...
Tecnografic makes matching replacement panels. Here’s their ad from CSR.
upload_2020-10-10_7-26-47.gif
 
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