40 sedan bridge forum

Scoop, You may be onto something, or the port engine might have an issue. I say that because when rotating the boat CCW at idle, the starboard engine should be loaded down more than the port because the props move more water in forward than they do in reverse. Port shouldn't stall. The engine in reverse will be turning more rpm than the one in forward.
 
Quick question guys. My thruster batteries are low on juice. I believe the thruster has its own 24v charger. Is that correct and does anyone know which breaker feeds it? The batteries were brand new in May so I’m leaning towards a charging issue.
 
my3sons said:
Scoop, You may be onto something, or the port engine might have an issue. I say that because when rotating the boat CCW at idle, the starboard engine should be loaded down more than the port because the props move more water in forward than they do in reverse. Port shouldn't stall. The engine in reverse will be turning more rpm than the one in forward.
Click to expand...

Quick update. The boat was hauled last week. On initial inspection, there was some wood (like pier wood) wedged in the port cutlass bearing. Weird. I know I haven't hit anything, so I wonder how long it's been in there. The bearing did need replacing so I elected to do them both. Not that expensive, surprisingly. The SB was replaced easily. After removing the port side bearing, it appears that either the shaft is off line (or bent) or the strut is bent. So both are going to the shop for testing and, perhaps, straightening. Should be splashing again next week and we can see whether any of this helps the engine performance at all...

I refuse to accept that my season is over. Not until I see a snowflake (the kind that comes from above, not the overly sensitive millennial).
 
Plumbing Guy said:
Quick question guys. My thruster batteries are low on juice. I believe the thruster has its own 24v charger. Is that correct and does anyone know which breaker feeds it? The batteries were brand new in May so I’m leaning towards a charging issue.
Click to expand...

My 24v thruster charger is switched by an "accessory" breaker on the AC panel.
5 or 6 years ago my charger quit charging the batteries. The culprit turned out to be a 25a
blade fuse inside the charger.
 
my3sons said:
My 24v thruster charger is switched by an "accessory" breaker on the AC panel.
5 or 6 years ago my charger quit charging the batteries. The culprit turned out to be a 25a
blade fuse inside the charger.
Click to expand...
Thank you sir...I suspected that may be the breaker. Problem solved!
 
Drafter said:
I have a vibration in my port. I think it's a tweaked prop. I haven't had a chance to run it without a prop on it. Yard said it was 20/1000 out at the prop. I found a custom marine shaft manufacturer in California, and 20/1000's was within their spec new? That's the thickness of a human air over 7'? If you don't mind....What was the cost of a new replacement shaft I assume through SeaRay? We'll probably pull out again over the winter for a new bottom job anyway.
Click to expand...
New starboard prop shaft installed today.
 

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mquiet said:
Why caused the shaft to be damaged?
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Don't know. Pretty sure it was there when I bought the boat seven years ago. Didn't know enough at the time to have the yard dial indicator it when we hauled it for the hull survey. Have always had a small visible wobble at the shaft seal and a small harmonic rumble, and wore out a cutless bearing pretty quickly on that side. Decided to have it checked out this bottom paint haul out.

Honestly, Matthew it just never really "felt" right.
 
ZZ13 said:
Don't know. Pretty sure it was there when I bought the boat seven years ago. Didn't know enough at the time to have the yard dial indicator it when we hauled it for the hull survey. Have always had a small visible wobble at the shaft seal and a small harmonic rumble, and wore out a cutless bearing pretty quickly on that side. Decided to have it checked out this bottom paint haul out.

Honestly, Matthew it just never really "felt" right.
Click to expand...
Very interesting. I am due for a insurance haul out and I was going to have props tuned. You have me thinking about having the shaft measured as well.
 
mquiet said:
Very interesting. I am due for a insurance haul out and I was going to have props tuned. You have me thinking about having the shaft measured as well.
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It's a cheap and easy test. They do it at the start of the prop taper
 
I'm looking to put a jet ski on my 400DB swim platform. Anyone know the platform weight capacity and/or put a jet ski on?
 
So the total bill for my running gear work was $4511. That included replacing starboard shaft, replacing starboard cutless bearing, and checking/tuning the props. Props were $690. This was a donation because I think the props were not bent from when they were turned down from 24 pitch to 22.7 pitch two years ago. But I had to have them checked. The shipping of props and shaft to and from Bradenton, FL was $490. And labor was $1215. The rest was parts (probably retail). So I did an exercise to see what savings if done myself. Closest do it yourself yard is 60 miles away. So gotta cruise there and back. Rate is $2 per foot per day to use the yard. So about $90 a day. Fastest I could have done the work was probably 7-10 days. Driving gear myself to FL would be a consideration. Hotel for one to two nights there. So difference between yard cost and labor cost would be about $300-$500. Shipping savings around $200 if I drove it. I still would have just bought the shaft from the same place so no savings there. So maybe I could have saved $500-$1000 doing the work myself.
 
It's a trade off for sure.

For me, I'll do it myself because I'm not going to trust the local mechanics to do it correct, or to be honest on what needs to be done.

Boats and their owners are open checkbooks around here, and are exploited. I've done shaft runouts on airplanes and helicopters, it's a fairly easy process. I doubt seriously if many of our local mechanics a) have the tools or b) understand how to correctly use them.

We have a prop shop here in town, so that's convenient. Shaft work can be done by any competent machine shop local as well.

In the end, do what works best for your situation.
 
I guess I never realized that some yards don't let you work on your own boat. Yards up here charge a percentage if you bring in outside servicers but I don't know of any that do not allow owners to do their own work.
 
I noticed some water in my bilge this year after using the boat if I was running up on plane.
Bilge dry if just cocktail cruising. I had my wife at the helm and did some running while I hung out in the bilge looking for water. Nothing. I went back to the helm and when we got back to the marina there was water in the bilge (about 2 cups or so).
Next time out I had her at the helm again and this time had her bring it down off plane and then saw the water. It was running down the back of the hull on the port side. Apparently when coming off plane, the wake washing over the hull joint was getting in somewhere and then finding it's way in at that spot.
We pulled for the season last week and after doing the winterizing, waxing etc. I pulled the aft rub rail and there was some cracking in the sealant that Sea Ray used at the shoe box joint. Fixed that and reinstalled everything. The rub rail fits very tightly to the hull except at the ends where the chrome end pieces are and there was good sealant in those areas and along the top of the rub rail but I did find a place where water must have been getting in at the port side chrome piece area. Caulked everything good as it was before but did not caulk the bottom of the rub rail. It wasn't caulked previously.
On my boat, the factory did not caulk the bottom of any of the rub rail, in fact, they drilled drain holes in the bottom of the rub rail at every joint of rub rail at at the ends on the port and starboard side rails.
IMG_E1426.JPG


IMG_E1427.JPG


They did not drill any holes in the bottom of the stern rub rail.
IMG_E1428.JPG


I assume because water is constantly on and around and occasionally even submerges this area. If running on plane and I pull the throttles back quickly, water will roll right in under the transom doorway.
My question is should I leave the bottom of this rub rail uncaulked? It is a tight fit to the hull with no gaps. Dirt could easily form a plug and prevent any water that might find it's way in to not be able to get out. I am thinking about drilling a couple of holes in it like the rest of the rub rails. Yes water will get in but will be able to run right out.
The shoe box joint is completely caulked now with 5200 and all screw holes are resealed.
What have others done with this area?
 
my3sons said:
I noticed some water in my bilge this year after using the boat if I was running up on plane.
Bilge dry if just cocktail cruising. I had my wife at the helm and did some running while I hung out in the bilge looking for water. Nothing. I went back to the helm and when we got back to the marina there was water in the bilge (about 2 cups or so).
Next time out I had her at the helm again and this time had her bring it down off plane and then saw the water. It was running down the back of the hull on the port side. Apparently when coming off plane, the wake washing over the hull joint was getting in somewhere and then finding it's way in at that spot.
We pulled for the season last week and after doing the winterizing, waxing etc. I pulled the aft rub rail and there was some cracking in the sealant that Sea Ray used at the shoe box joint. Fixed that and reinstalled everything. The rub rail fits very tightly to the hull except at the ends where the chrome end pieces are and there was good sealant in those areas and along the top of the rub rail but I did find a place where water must have been getting in at the port side chrome piece area. Caulked everything good as it was before but did not caulk the bottom of the rub rail. It wasn't caulked previously.
On my boat, the factory did not caulk the bottom of any of the rub rail, in fact, they drilled drain holes in the bottom of the rub rail at every joint of rub rail at at the ends on the port and starboard side rails.
View attachment 93203

View attachment 93204

They did not drill any holes in the bottom of the stern rub rail.
View attachment 93205

I assume because water is constantly on and around and occasionally even submerges this area. If running on plane and I pull the throttles back quickly, water will roll right in under the transom doorway.
My question is should I leave the bottom of this rub rail uncaulked? It is a tight fit to the hull with no gaps. Dirt could easily form a plug and prevent any water that might find it's way in to not be able to get out. I am thinking about drilling a couple of holes in it like the rest of the rub rails. Yes water will get in but will be able to run right out.
The shoe box joint is completely caulked now with 5200 and all screw holes are resealed.
What have others done with this area?
Click to expand...

I seem to remember Bill posting something about this...?
 
techmitch said:
I seem to remember Bill posting something about this...?
Click to expand...
I did do all that. But after all that I still got water in on plane but not slow. Turned out both cockpit drain thru hulls were cracked. The lip against the side of the hull was split from the neck of the thru hull. Water forced its way in through the crack on plane. Turns out they were just cheap plastic. I replaced both of them with marelon thru hulls. RayO had same problem as well and we replaced his also. Another remove batteries and generator muffler and crawl into the corner on your back, Mark.
 
my3sons said:
I noticed some water in my bilge this year after using the boat if I was running up on plane.
Bilge dry if just cocktail cruising. I had my wife at the helm and did some running while I hung out in the bilge looking for water. Nothing. I went back to the helm and when we got back to the marina there was water in the bilge (about 2 cups or so).
Next time out I had her at the helm again and this time had her bring it down off plane and then saw the water. It was running down the back of the hull on the port side. Apparently when coming off plane, the wake washing over the hull joint was getting in somewhere and then finding it's way in at that spot.
We pulled for the season last week and after doing the winterizing, waxing etc. I pulled the aft rub rail and there was some cracking in the sealant that Sea Ray used at the shoe box joint. Fixed that and reinstalled everything. The rub rail fits very tightly to the hull except at the ends where the chrome end pieces are and there was good sealant in those areas and along the top of the rub rail but I did find a place where water must have been getting in at the port side chrome piece area. Caulked everything good as it was before but did not caulk the bottom of the rub rail. It wasn't caulked previously.
On my boat, the factory did not caulk the bottom of any of the rub rail, in fact, they drilled drain holes in the bottom of the rub rail at every joint of rub rail at at the ends on the port and starboard side rails.
View attachment 93203

View attachment 93204

They did not drill any holes in the bottom of the stern rub rail.
View attachment 93205

I assume because water is constantly on and around and occasionally even submerges this area. If running on plane and I pull the throttles back quickly, water will roll right in under the transom doorway.
My question is should I leave the bottom of this rub rail uncaulked? It is a tight fit to the hull with no gaps. Dirt could easily form a plug and prevent any water that might find it's way in to not be able to get out. I am thinking about drilling a couple of holes in it like the rest of the rub rails. Yes water will get in but will be able to run right out.
The shoe box joint is completely caulked now with 5200 and all screw holes are resealed.
What have others done with this area?
Click to expand...
I did this and I did not caulk the bottom of the rub rail. I did drill a few weep holes. I also left the cut ends uncaulked so water could flow out. The rubrail is technically cosmetic. My theory is give water every chance to get out of there rather than sealing it up so water can't get in. Super sealing the deck to hull overlap is the real water intrusion preventer.
 
I remember you posting that, The thru hulls look good and I saw the water trickling down the rear wall of the hull. The cracking in the sealant at the shoe box joint was in the area of where i saw the water coming in. I am confident (fingers crossed) i got it. Just not sure what to do with the bottom of that rub rail, if anything.
 
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